neuroanatomist said:

A Canon umbrella - best weather sealing available!

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Ha, Ha, Ha, Yes, Sir dear my Teacher, Mr. Neuroanatomist.
This umbrella is special design, to have the hole between the top part and bottom part( Not one piece Cloth) of umbrella and can open open the hold by the strong wind blow to the umbrella, with out fly the umbrella away from our hand----Ha, Ha, Ha-----And You are right 120% = "A Canon umbrella - best weather sealing available! "---Which still in our hands although during Tornado in my home state, North Carolina.
Have a great weekend, Sir.
Surapon

1. What is your opinion on the "perfect" lens for street photography and why?

I prefer the 17-40L as my walk around lens. It gets closer to normal than the 16-35, and I rarely feel the need for the extra stop of exposure. When I need a low light I walker I usually slap on my 50mm 1.4

2. Which shooting mode do you use?

I actually prefer the shiftable program mode rather than aperture or shutter priority. I don't like being constantly locked to one value. If I don't like the setting it gives, I just spin the dial to get the combo I want.

3. What auto focus setting do you use (single point, af expansion, auto)?

Maybe it is because I am old and grew up with spit image manual focus cameras, or maybe it is because I am lazy, but I usually use Single Center Point focus and recompose. OK, my favorite was the focus system on my ELAN 7e. I loved being able to just look at a focus point and have it focus there. Whatever happened to that technology. It worked well for me.

sagittariansrock said:

...bashing the 50L seems quite unnecessary...

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Apparently, some people find it very necessary...in many cases, simply because it's made by Canon. Sigma lenses are better, Sony/Nikon sensors are better, Canon doesn't innovate. The horse is long dead and mostly decomposed, but some people feel the need to beat it anyway.

Thanks, a lot of great info there

oneguywithacamera said:

I've got the Godox PB960 Lithium Pack. It's well worth it vs. AA packs. Dual output and Li battery with a capacity of 1800 full power pops is pretty sweet. The best price I've found on ebay is $170, without flash specific cables. Both Adorama, B&H & Cheetah Stand have re-branded versions of this pack. Interestingly the price varies widely based on where you get it. The B&H rebranded Cyclone DR PP-400DR is 2x that of the Godox or Cheetah Stand version, while the Adorama BP-960 only carries about a $50 premium.

The thing is if you add up the total cost of ownership of AA packs (chargers, decent AA rechargeables, and the packs themselves) you get very close to the cost of the Godox that is superior in every way. I can use mine on several shoots before it even drops to 50%.

More info found here if you're interested:
http://flashhavoc.com/godox-pb960-lithium-power-pack-review/

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Great link, thank you!

Thanks for the link, Steve.

Looks much better than some of the other guides they have published. Nice to see Canon working with the mobile/tablet market in mind. Let's hope we see some useful mobile apps from them in the future.

Axilrod said:

RunAndGun said:

The 17-120 is nice... And will outlast any camera that they could have announced.

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Haha yeah it's nice for the video industry but I doubt many people on here have $33k lying around to buy one. Prosumers got the shaft that's all there is to it.

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NAB isn't for prosumers.

There's a lot of good, quality gear has gotten down to prices that 'prosumers' can afford(and some IS aimed at that market), but they're not the main target customers of most of the manufactures/companies that are there and the products that they are selling.

Valvebounce said:

Hi dpc.
Nice series.

Cheers Graham.

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Thanks, Graham. Appreciate it.

lintoni said:

zim said:

Yeh but the Swiss one is made of chocolate

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Is it white chocolate?

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There is no such thing as white chocolate except for Sharhonda on the corner of Main and 2nd South.

A Norwegian radio host ones said; I have a face perfectly made for radio. I´ll copy that and say I have a face perfectly made for the viewfinder end of a camera

Dual Aperture keeps announcing its partners. Recently, it has announced its image sensor partner (Hynix/SiliconFile) and DSP partner (eWBM). Now the company says that it cooperates with Ability Enterprise on camera design. Ability Enterprise and Dual Aperture partner together on a technology licensing agreement whereby Ability Enterprise will incorporate Dual Aperture's 4-color sensor technology, image processing algorithms and various application software, into their latest line of camera module products.

Dual Aperture's technology utilizes a proprietary 4-color sensor design comprised of RGB and IR pixels. Built with separate apertures for the RGB and IR pixels, the sensor is able to generate two distinct images, one in the RGB spectrum and the other in the IR, with a single capture. This allows to estimate a depth of the image, as explained in a Youtube video:

Ability Enterprise is a Canon partner in Taiwan making modules for Canon!

I asked pretty much the same question, recently. I got lots of helpful replies: http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=20367.0

Thank you all for your quick and helpful replies!

It's odd that Canon's online store lists the wrong hood, but I doubt it's the only error on there ...

I'd hope it's better than the 50L, but I know with Zeiss their CP.2's are pretty much the ZE's in cinema housings. The cinema lenses have more aperture blades, so you get a rounder bokeh even stopped down a bit. But most of the money you're spending on cinema lenses is paying for the housing, so that added cost isn't really going towards improved image quality, and no way it's going to perform as well as the OTUS. Not to mention buying a cine lens for shooting stills is ridiculous, they dont have AF and are way too big and bulky and are designed to be put on rigs, not for shooting handheld.

wsmith96 said:

I recently got a large rouge flashbender with a diffusion panel. It's very portable and works well.

Good luck!

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I got the "blanc" version a la eBay, but I'm having trouble using it for fills and catchlights. Did you use it for these purposes? How'd yours hold up?
I am wondering if the reflector in mine isn't up to the mark. The build is pretty good otherwise.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

It is a general rule of thumb, that if you want border to border sharpness, f/8 is going to be best.

Many high end lenses will be sharpest in the center, but weaker on the edges and corners at wide apertures. That's not a issue for many images, but for those needing sharpness across the frame, f/8 is a good place to start.

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Thousand Thanks, my Dear Teacher, Mr. Mt Spokane.
Yes, To day my Day of Learning from Every CR. Members, include You too, Sir. The Sharpness that we want , at Center up to the corner of The Photos start from 1 stop down from the wide open of F. Stop to , Maybe 1 Stop, smaller hole from 8.0---That Depend on the Shallow DOF that we want
Have a great day, Sir.
Surapon

wickidwombat said:

dcm said:

I placed an order for it on 4/1 from BH so I'd have plenty of time before a July trip - haven't heard anything yet. Status is still "On Order". I wonder what the current lead time is.

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there is a quite a backlog for them as they are super popular

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Mine's been on order since 3/11. I had actually originally ordered it in February but was going to be out of town the week of their estimated shipping date (I got in touch with their customer service to find that out), so canceled my order. I should have asked if they could move me back in the queue instead. Oh well.

That's a good price on the 24-70 and unless you need IS or carry the 24-105 by itself and use the 71-105 focal length a lot, I'd say go for it. The 24-70 II is an amazing lens.

There are a couple of things, its likely that their is some internal damage, there are some wipers inside the lens that send position information to the lens, and if they were bent or not making contact, then the lens does not know what position its in.

The camera sends a command to the lens telling it where to focus something like move to focus at 5.2 ft. The lens compares the position of the wiper on the resistor by measuring the resistance, and findsthe point where the internal data table says "X" resistance is 5.2 ft. (I've simplified the process to give the general idea). If the circuitry cannot read the resistance due to dirt or a damaged part, it will hunt.

There are several other things that can make this happen, the flexprint that moves is also a frequent failure point.

The plastic case can be replaced for a few $$, but the lens glass will almost certainly be out of alignment, and AF accuracy will be off.

Maybe if we give him even more advice he'll come back!

Thanks privatebydesign & wickidwombat.

Dan46 said:

* Full-frame such as 6D for way better ISO.

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No doubt, but it also has a shallower dof (given the same framing). That's why I don't mind having a 60d crop backup: with my ff 6d and two models - I'm doing a log of pet/person shots - it usually requires ~f11 to have both eyes in focus even if I attempt thin dof posing. For run and gun shots on a wedding, you might also not be able to use open aperture and thin dof unless your're a real photog wiz.

Will do. Many thanks, Sporgon!

Old Treath - but i´ve found the Reason why i don´t find al Way to set my Signature here.

Ok - i have to be active - no Problem 8) .

Have to be not so shy here ;D .

Greetings

Bernd

privatebydesign said:

That could well be your problem, BIF in good light, as per cervantes settings, are about as far away from a tuned AF set up as you can get for a model runway shoot in poorer light.

The beauty and problem with modern AF is it is so customisable that settings for one subject and situation will be very bad for another. The "twitchiness" he is inducing in his custom settings do not make so much sense for runway shooting. The Accel/Deccel setting isn't appropriate for runways, the model's speed is comparatively uniform, and the Tracking Sensitivity is the opposite of what makes sense for runways.

I'd reset to factory and work methodically from there, indeed I'd expect factory to give you a much higher keeper rate than the 30% you are getting.

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Good points and I totally agree on the customizability can be a trapdoor to problems. I've given the body a Factory Reset + Custom Functions Reset, and will go out tomorrow evening to give it a new try.

I think the automatic selection AF vs Zone AF mode setting (p 74 in the manual) have been messing with me, as it seemed to auto-select the AF points, despite I had selected a single AF point.

Thanks to PBD as well as mackguyver and Menace over in the 300mm thread for suggestions. I'll keep you posted on my findings.

I'll try the 61-point "full auto" selection and the manual 1/5/9-point AF modes for comparison.