cheeseheadsaint said:

RGF: My lens line up is EF-S 18-55, EF 50f/1.8 and EF 70-200mm/f.2.8 IS ii. (i still have my EF-S 55-250mm but i've been using the 70-200mm instead) so primarily EF lenses. yeah the 1Dx is out of my range

rpt: i didn't consider that yet! hmm...I'm at a point where nearly all my images taken are with the EF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS ii and then sometimes the 50f/1.8 and almost always wide open.. especially when it gets dark. dunno what others lenses i would get.. maybe a faster prime but meh i hardly use the 50f/1.8 anyways at least in comparison to the 70-200mm since I mainly do sports. another thing prolly to mention is that I see this upgrade as a long term thing... like whatever camera i use next, I want to use it until its last clicking shutter before i upgrade.



70D specs look so good for sports photographers!! but surely the catch is the ISO performance. otherwise why the huge price difference?

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So you've answered your own question. If AF is your main concern, then the 70D would likely do. For high ISO the 6D is the clear winner as long as you won't miss the reach with your 70-200.

JPlendPhoto said:

I wish I could show you how much it is shifting when looking through the viewfinder

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If you tripod mount the camera, remove the eyecup and hold something like an iphone up flat against it, you can take an in-focus image of the entire viewfinder. That and a shot taken with the 5D2 from that same tripod position will do it.

However, that gets you nowhere other than satisfaction of proof. Taking it back to the shop as you've already arranged is the best course of action.

I have both of these bodies and I love them both - different tools for different jobs

MK5GTI said:

any tips on setting white balance on shooting waterfalls?

AWB and correct it in post ?

Grey Card?

my ND filter give me that nasty magenta colour

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Shoot RAW and click the color balance eyedropper on an area of white water. That will get you pretty close.

scottkinfw said:

I'm no pro at all, but I would suggest a second body and forget about changing lenses. Maybe the 24-70 and the 70-200, and the flash.

Extra batteries and be sure that you have lots of memory. Aside from that, have some fun.

The others have made great suggestions.

sek

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I was considering a second body like the upcoming 70d. It would make my sigma 35 close to 50mm

AcutancePhotography said:

mackguyver said:

Awesome! I've been thinking about using a golf bag cart, too, but thought I was crazy for the idea. I have bad shoulders and knees so I need something...

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For some reason, I am having problems uploading the actual image. But here is a link to a picture of my cheap, inexpensive equipment cart that did not cost too much.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78495716@N08/9179598150/#

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Use only this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78495716@N08/9179598150

The "/#" is causing the image not to show up...

crazyrunner33 said:

cayenne said:

Actually, right now, hoping that Magic Lanter can soon get raw working fully, and the CinemaDMG conversion will work...and I'll start using that to shoot RAW video with the 5D3....and working with that...

cayenne

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The current Magic Lantern RAW is working pretty well as it, plus there is no need to use the CinemaDNG conversion; DaVinci Resolve was updated and now supports the DNG files from MagicLantern's RAW2DNG app.

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Yeah, but I can't find a simple, step by step tutorial that will show me how to get the RAW functionality onto the latest ML alpha release.

I've read through forum after forum...and well, it isn't clear enough how to do this without making permanet changes and possibly risking bricking my 5D3....

I"m waiting for the RAW functionality install to become a bit more "prime time".



Cayenne

If you're writing to separate cards, you cannot.

BenSL65 said:

I am an enthousiastic hobby-photograher. I am going on safari in September and am looking for a second body.
I have a 5Dm3 as primary camera and plan to take with me my 24-70 f2.8 ii, 70-200 f 2.8 ii and 300 f4. In addition to that, a 1.4 converter (iii). A large oart of the photography will be in low light and I understood from the camp that 300mm with 1.4 converter should offer enough reach (the latter of course especially on a crop body).
I was hoping that the 7Dm2 would be available on time, but this is not the case.

I have been thinking about the following options:
- 7D, crop, eventually sell afterwards, eventually buy used
-70D, crop, newest technology, less weather/dust resistant, might be useful after the safari as well as relatively simple and small camera with fill-in flash and wifi
- 1Dm4, 1.3 crop, better image quality in low light, weather sealed

- or, the most expensive and probably most worryfree option, buy a 1Dx and eventually sell the 5Dm3 afterwards???

I would appreciate you advice.
Ben

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And why exactly are you getting a 24-70 for a safari? Get a prime for landscapes. Choose the focal length of the prime appropriately.

If you have a FF, (as you do) get a crop camera to get you reach.

alexanderferdinand said:

@ Krob78: bad luck, you have got a bad copy.
I had a hard time even thinking about buying a third party lens, after using almost 30 years only Canon.
The drive is louder, but extra sound like you described seems to be a serious damage.
I have read many reviews on the net before buying, Tokina seems to have issues with quality control.
So I choosed to order it from a place, where I can send it back with no problems.
I wish you good luck with the replacement.

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Thanks Alex, I did send it back however I decided not to opt for a replacement. Although it was mostly good, the weight was really absurd and I decided I didn't want to "try" another one, so I ended up with another Canon L lens... I picked up a 17-40mm L and it works great, just like I knew it would. Surprisingly and conversely, the 17-40mm L is amazingly light!! Almost too light for my liking!!

But no flare issues, nice color rendering, sharp. Price was excellent at only $625 for brand new in box. I use it mostly for interior Real Estate work, so f/4 isn't an issue as I'm shooting it primarily indoors at f/5.6 and f/8. A little wider would have been nice but the lens will pay for itself very quickly with a couple of shoots.

I wanted the 16-35mm f/2.8 but decided with rumors of a new wide angle being announced later this year (hopefully with IS), I decided to pocket the almost $800 difference and I'll take a look at the new offering when it comes out... If it doesn't surface, I'll think about upgrading at that time. For now, other than the amazing lightness (feels cheap), of the 17-40mm, I'm set...

Dylan777 said:

littlewildcat said:

The FF Sony RX-1 and RX1R is out now. Will Canon have one like this soon ??

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If Sony releases FF compact body(similar to RX-1) that allow user to swap lenses, I will sell one of mine 5D III + lenses to build smaller system.

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Sony is listening. http://www.mirrorlessrumors.com/strong-indications-about-the-nex-ff-release/

neuroanatomist said:

Artie's subjective evaluations are convenient, because he can change his mind, even contradict previous statements, and it's all 'ok' because it's subjective.

@jrista - I have both the 1.4xIII and 2xIII, and after the novelty of f/8 AF (with effectively a single point) wore off, I usually use the 1.4x, and only rarely the 2x. YMMV...

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Spot on..... +1 here.

TeenTog said:

Lol. If by 'most of us' you mean people here on CR, I'd say we're not at all representative of the 'general population'.

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Haha sorry Neuro I meant general photographer population

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I suspect that the general pop does know what features they need or why. People buy for the wrong reason, heard something, gift, ...

I just think it's an issue of technique, not camera.

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For sure. While a camera may help in a few ways, I think that settling down and really focusing on using your camera to its potential would really help. I have a T3, which in many was sis similar to what you're using, and I would like to upgrade to a 70D soon. However, I need to remind myself that I can still get fantastic shots with my camera, and remember: the best camera is the one you have in your hands.

Not sure why. My 1D X saves AF mode and Drive mode with the C# settings. Perhaps try clearing all settings (Tools Menu 4)?

cqphotographics said:

So I know this lens has been criticized for having back focusing issues and the new version supposedly fixes those problems. However the prices for these lenses used and in good condition seemed to make sense. I shoot lots of landscapes and video so auto focus isn't' the biggest deal but ideally a lens like this would allow me to shoot more portraits and events, anyways thats beside the point.

Is there a good standard way to put this lens to the test and check how well the focus is functioning and how sharp it is?
I shoot with the 5D mkII which also doesn't have the greatest AF abilities.
But i'd just like to know if theres a good way to go about evaluating the lens because if it isn't up to par I can send it back and try a different one.

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Just set it to f/2.8, aim it at end, mid and long at an angle at a crack in the sidewalk using single center point AF. If the DOF doesn't seem centered properly then adjust it in the AF manual AF calibration settings for that lens and keep adjusting until it seems centered properly. If you need much different values at long vs mid vs wide end then send it back as only the very newest bodies can adjust lenses for long vs wide end.

I've never tried these but it looks like an awesome way to get your 5D3 underwater safely:

http://www.outex.com/

This is great news. I'm new to Resolve and have been struggling a bit, so any improvements to the workflow are welcome.

Unfortunately, a much bigger problem I've been having with Resolve is that it performs none of the automated corrections/adjustments that ACR does. In my case, this means my unprocessed 5D3 RAW images have intense chromatic aberration across the entire image.

I asked how to fix the CA on both the BM and ML forums. The responses I got seemed to suggest that most colorists improvise their solutions. I certainly understand why Resolve doesn't automatically fix this yet (it requires a huge library of lens profiles). But the prospect of creating my own CA fixes for about a half dozen lenses gives me pause. At least they could have a tool that puts you in the ballpark (or a tutorial... or something helpful).

Far as I know, the two major advantages of Resolve over ACR is speed and dealing with motion. ACR has no motion capabilities; which obviously means it's not a pro tool. Period. But ACR does have one big advantage, which is that it takes about 2 seconds to get near-perfect grading on any random, low-motion footage.

The frustrating thing for me is that most of the Resolve interface and tools look pretty straightforward and manageable to learn. But there's a few stumbling blocks that even experts struggle to help me with. Oh well, suck it up I guess.

mb66energy said:

CarlTN, thanks for your comments!

And for the info about astrophotography:
* I never heard that this is a common "method" for good images - but now I remember a talk about
an mathematical method called "triple correlation" to suppress atmosphere effects
http://www.opticsinfobase.org/ao/abstract.cfm?uri=ao-22-24-4028 (the abstract is helpful as
general information)
They used a sequence of 100 or 1000 images and analyzed the set to gain Hubble-like resolution
without traveling into an orbit ;-)
* I never kept in mind during my video filming about the missing mirror motion - but that is a
good argument. Especially with my 25 year old Manfrotto 190 Pro tripod!
(Now I have a hangup between 190cxpro3 and 055cxpro3 but I think after realizing 4000mm
after your comments I will tend to the sturdier 055cxpro3!)

Michael

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Michael, I'm glad I could help in any way. Actually you know a lot more about astrophotography than I do, so I will be happy to learn from you!

I really do like how your image shows very subtle shadows of even the shallow craters present in the center of the image, far away from the sunset shadow part! Impressive because the shadows there are small anyway because the craters are shallow, but then also because the angle of sunlight falling on them, makes the shadows even more slim.

Have you heard any more about the upcoming comet "ISON" that is supposed to be so bright this fall, and how will you photograph it? I hope it's not a dud...it was thought it might be brighter than the full moon!

What he said.

Pretty much you'd need to swap out all/most electronics, plus some mechanical modifications to accommodate the different ones. There's lot of flex-cables which makes it slightly easier than just PCBs, but still not really feasible.

So in theory it could be just possible, but not within reasonable effort.

Ouch!

Happily the few minor scratches etc on my bodies are not really worth taking pictures of.

I'm not too bothered that it doesn't have image stabilization. I don't feel OS is really needed until around 50mm(80mmFF) on an APS-C camera.

1vHS
forget which film but it was cross processed and pushed a stop or two.

neuroanatomist said:

I have both. For travel, I recently got the 70-300L - better IQ than the 100-400, much more convenient size.

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I think this is the better question - either the 70-300L or the 70-200 2.8 ii.

I also have both and the former is much more portable. Depends really how much of a difference 2.8 will make to you.

Both a camera body and a lens have tolerances and inaccuracies to their autofocus. Sending a lens in for adjustment when your images are fine runs the risk of making them worse. FoCal AFMA software will do a good job of checking AF accuracy, assuming you have a camera body with AFMA. There are some other FoCal Pro tests that will indirectly point up issues like decentering.