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eddiemrg · Jun 9, 2013

Frodo said:
Frodo said:

One thing not mentioned is lens flare. I had a non-IS 70-200/4 for years, but could not shoot into the lght, especially with the sun in the frame, without having objectionable flare.

Click to expand...

I don't have this problem with my 70-200mm f/4 ... perhaps your filter caused the flares (or the lack of one)?

While I keep filters on most of lenses most of the time, I remove them when shooting into the light. Here is the best photo of a series shooting into the rising sun. The subsequent photos when the sun rose further were unusable (and deleted). This was 200mm @ 5.6 on a 5DII.

[/quote]

fantastc picture!
I don't use filters anymore... I had some good quality ones but I was never satisfied...

Olivier11986 · Jun 9, 2013

I may be a bit late here, but you can get great pictures all the way up to ISO 102,400 : http://www.extremeinstability.com/2013-5-4.htm

(well, that is on a 6D, but the 5Diii won't be much different)

tron · Jun 8, 2013

Rienzphotoz said:
RGF said:

will the 100-400 II be released soon?

Click to expand...

Everyday, we are getting closer to having it released soon ;D

Allow me a minor revision:

Every year, we are getting closer to having it released soon ;D

brianboru · Jun 8, 2013

noisejammer said:
My first suggestion would be a monopod - it doubles as a club for when you get out of line. A $1 alternative is one of these .... $1 Image Stabilizer For Any Camera - Lose The Tripod/Monopod[/url] - I find this works quite well. ...

+1 to the monopod and +1 and an "I'm going to make one of those" for the $1 alternative. (I'll do a lashing too since since I'm an Eagle Scout as well.)

I've used one of these before to get a better grip:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005MZO5TA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

wayno · Jun 8, 2013

AdamJ said:
I have all three of the lenses you refer to. Definitely go for the f/2.8 II.

Agreed. The 70-200 2.8 ii is heavy but awesome. Go for it.

clicstudio · Jun 8, 2013

The 50mm 1.2L is one of the hardest lenses to focus, no matter which camera u are using.
At F1.2, the distance between focus and blur is probably 1/8"... I am guessing, but it certainly looks that way.
I bought one a few years back and the next day I returned it. I don't use or have time for manual focusing, so I have to rely on the camera. I always used 1D bodies since 2003 so it should be the best focusing but I would get 5 out 10 shots out of focus...
Lens looks great and has an amazing sharpness at F4.0 and up but not wide open.

Cheers

P

mb66energy · Jun 8, 2013

I would check if your grandma
* will use an optical viewfinder or the display
* needs a zoom or will prefer a prime lens
* has problems with small (or tiny) buttons
* want's to go the digital route (=data management) or
can use a bunch of cards e.g. with a flat screen with card reader.

Perhaps the combination of a medium large camera
with a large Li ion battery and a bunch of 4GB cards
with mechanical write protection might be a good
solution. Cards can be used like film cardridges and
- if it is a 100D - the camera has a large capacity
battery + can be used in a full auto setup.

Just provide a little bit time to make backups of the
cards ...

My 2ct - Michael

Jules · Jun 8, 2013

Well, i'd say after more than 2 years it can be considered quite permanent (even if minor).
But once again, it was handheld, so regular use with camera body regulating it and not held so closely and not focusing on it in the night should be fine...

Mt Spokane Photography said:
Jules said:

Answer is plain and easy : yes, it can ! And I know the effects firsthand :-(

Some would say it looks like one of these Wile.E Coyote cartoon ... but recipe is easy... wanting to experiment with Photography can be tempting....
Take somebody who is a bit light sensitive (years in Texas with probably poor grade sunglasses didn't help), have fun at night with photo friends for a "lighpainting session" (ie. taking picts with lights effects at night), and fire a 430EX external flash at your face from 30-40cm below, and don't close your eyes ....
=> result is really cool "ghost like picture" like in the books (ie. your camera set on long exposure takes picts with 3 times your face for example if you move and redo it, just the face that was under flash exposure, rest of the body is invisible and you see the background thru ...), but better if you close your eyes and/or look up instead of looking in front or worst, low at your flash (like the first tries to see where to position it best, etc ...)
=> side effect after multiple attempts in the evening is darker spot in your eyes, showing "paler" zones when looking at lights (and having focus shift left/right) as if you had a water spot on the eye diffracting light a bit, and showing "greyer" areas when looking at uniform white wall (or blue sky) with high luminosity ...

Click to expand...

Seeing dark spots after being exposed to a bright light is common, but its not permanent damage to your eyes.

Jun 8, 2013

1. charge the battery and read the manual during charging the battery
2. Setup the camera with your prefered settings (image quality, RAW or JPG+RAW, AF-Points ...)
3. shoot, shoot, shoot ...

Emanuele Del Bufalo · Jun 8, 2013

I guys

I got a new 5D mark3 and yesterday i realize the same problem, a lot of noise in the live view when is dark.
The problem is that its happening in really high ISO setting H1 anf H2 and even in low range 200-400-800
I got a friend that have the same problem.

I realize that if you dont expand the the ISO Range to L-H1 and H2 the problem is much less

I was not able to facus in manual with the live view in x5 and x10 becouse to much noise

is it a limitation of the body or actually a problem that probably Canon dont know yet?

I gona take picture and send it to Canon and in as many bloog i can

Let see what's happen

Cheers

Keep in touch

Jun 8, 2013

M's af is pretty decent if:

You use oneshot rather than servo
Use single flexi zone rather than auto flexizone
Switch off continual af
Switch off touch af+shutter (use bin button to centre af spot)
Are happy to confrim af and recompose

And in this mide it is set to get even faster with the new firmware.

It's not a compact, it wasn't £100 and nor is it an SLR.
Enjoy it for what it is. The IQ is brilliant, especially with the 22mm!

Enjoy and welcome to the m club.

Zv · Jun 8, 2013

Sebring5 said:
Zv said:

Sebring5 said:

6d although I recommend primes instead of zooms.

Click to expand...

I disagree, limiting yourself like that can be creative but sometimes a job calls for the flexibilty of a zoom. Now, I reckon just one or two zooms will do it and then build up your primes. A 24-105L is prob all you'll need. Then decide what focal lengths you are drawn to. Don't get a 35mm just because it's cool to have one. You'll have to analyse your shooting and framing styles over a long period of time. And it's ongoing. You may find that this year you are more of a tele kind of guy.

Click to expand...

I have a 400mm f5.6, 135mm f2, 50mm f1.8 and 17mm t/s f4. I rarely use the 50mm. Maybe later on I'll get a 600mm or 800mm. I'm definitely either medium to long telephoto or ultra wide angle. Later on I may end up in shooting differently.

Sorry that post was not aimed at you but rather the OP!

Jim Saunders · Jun 8, 2013

The case for the 600EX-RT is having the RF link to other flashes like it if you think you will need that later.

Jim

RGF · Jun 7, 2013

Are we going to create pool when the 100 millionth lens will be made?

RGF · Jun 7, 2013

As soon as the 200-400 was announced I signed up at amazon only to find too late that will receive their 1st shipment June 30 while every one gets theirs early June. Of course I am leaving on a trip I late June so I had to find the lens elsewhere.

All I want is 1 lens

syder · Jun 7, 2013

Set your stills setting to C1/2 and your video setting to C2/3.

RGF · Jun 7, 2013

mccallew said:
Looks like Lexar will replace/repair the card, so I guess no biggie. This would be good to know how to do some time, but for now, go Lexar!

Glad to hear that they will stand behind their products. I am adding Lexar 1000x cards to my mix (formerly mostly Sandisk Extremes, and then Extreme Pros).

Don Haines · Jun 7, 2013

There are also active USB extension cables that would allow you to use your computer for tethered shooting from much further away.....

Skirball · Jun 7, 2013

BokChoiTV said:
The T5i's cost is way too much for so little difference over the T4i

But it's a really nice embossed dial.

BokChoiTV said:
Hopefully the T4i will be friendly too, haven't used a Rebel in years.

It'll feel small and flimsy at first, but you'll get used to it. ...there's a joke in there somewhere...

Jun 7, 2013

Don't have it, but since Canon released body firmware updates to support f/8 AF with a 1.4x TC and this lens, saying nothing about AFMA, and since 3rd party zooms AFMA just fine on those bodies, I would not expect any issues.

A lens correction profile for the new lens will be along eventually.

digital paradise · Jun 7, 2013

Canon only plays nice with Canon RT. I called Sekonic and asked if they were planning to build a Canon friendly RT module and they said no. They are in bed with PW. That was 4 months ago and you never know.

When in manual I carry my STE3 and L-358 with me. Flashes in group mode and I use the test button on the STE3 to fire the flashes. I set them all at each location using this method. When done I put the STE3 back on my camera.

I modified the foot stand and attached a spare BR connector.

RLPhoto · Jun 7, 2013

bvukich said:
RLPhoto said:

privatebydesign said:

some posters stated belief that gear is just a matter of convenience and any shot could be shot with any gear given time and thought!

Click to expand...

U mad bro? Don't be hurt because other's here also called you out on the convenient applications of a leaf shutter.

Click to expand...

As privatebydesign correctly pointed out, there are applications that would be served by having a leaf shutter, but none that wouldn't be BETTER served by having an electronic shutter. You get all the benefits (but instead of only 1-2 stops gain, you're bound only by flash duration), without all the caveats of a leaf shutter.

Indeed, That's why I use my g15 for its sync speed but leaf shutters are a decent compromise. Afterall, It's about two stops of ambient cutting power.

Harry Muff · Jun 7, 2013

Zombie thread!

So, after watching a ton of 5D2s go for around £950 on eBay, I've decided to wait and order my 5D3 now.

I plan to run them side by side for a bit and report my findings here.

There are 5D2s on eBay that are older and with a lot more actuations than mine, so waiting and comparing them won't make a whole lot of difference.

KyleSTL · Jun 7, 2013

npeters said:
From reading his blog, my guess is that it will be an IS version of his favourite 24-70mm f2.8 lens. Here in Australia the lens RRP is $2,400, more than the old 5D2 body used to sell for.

Couple months too late. It was a video stabilization system that uses accelerometers and ultrasonic motor for a lightweight and silent solution.

http://www.freeflysystems.com/products/moviM10.php

Northstar · Jun 7, 2013

privatebydesign said:
Northstar said:

If I understand correctly, you want both the Eiffel Tower AND your subject in focus? To do this, you need to do some things to widen your dof to infinity.

There are four main factors that contribute to dof: (I know many here know this but their are many that don't, so bear with me)

1. The aperture....shoot at f11 rather than f5.6 or f4...this will help widen your dof.

2. Distance to your subject ... The closer you are to the subject, the narrower the dof. Move further away and your dof will widen.

3. The focal length of your lens...an 85mm lens will have a narrower dof than a 24mm. So as someone else said, shoot wide to increase your dof. 24mm or wider in this case.

4. Your sensor size...a full frame sensor will give you a narrower dof compared to a crop sensor.

So for the tower shot, shoot at f11 and use a 24mm lens...this your starting point. Then, just understand that the closer you get to the subject, the narrower your dof will become, and the more likely the tower will be out of focus. The problem, is that to get the "Godzilla" effect as you describe, you need to be close to the subject, so that they appear to be as big or bigger than the tower..... This is why you need to shoot at 24mm or wider

Omar...as someone else posted, spend 5 minutes playing around with the settings on the following website and you'll learn a lot about the 4 factors that control dof....important stuff.

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Click to expand...

Point 3 is arguable, if you maintain subject size dof remains constant between focal lengths.

Point 4 reads incorrectly. A smaller sensor gives more dof. These kinds of forced perspective images are very easy with camera phones and P&S's because they have such small sensors and subsequent massive dof.

Look up forced perspective and use a small sensor at f5.6 or f8, P&S's often max out at f8 anyway.

Pbd..you are correct on point 4, I wrote it wrong...I've edited it now.

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