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Mid-Atlantic Macro Fest -- Cicadas!!

Random Orbits said:
I remember those from the 90s. It was impossible to walk anywhere without hearing them crunching underfoot. Not sure if I'd be looking forward to those again.

Yep, messy and noisy -- but they make for great pictures. They're slow and they stay put, so easy models to work with. The orange/red eyes give you a dramatic, monstrous look.
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Does the flash pulse when <x-sync & hss on?

Marsu42 said:
Indeed, my 60d also doesn't to a proper exposure reduction to x-sync but just overexposes -

My old 30D had safety shift, that stopped down until sync speed was ok if required. Did the rip that out?
(That way you lose only the stops from the exessive light value, but don't have to pay the HSS-price, about 40% more flash range)
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Physical Ailments From Heavy Gear

Ricku said:
This is why I'm thinking about switching to full frame mirrorless later this year or the next. Leica and Sony have already proven that FF can be small and light.. Right now, uber expensive Leica is the only choice, but rumor is that Sony and Fuji will release their compact FF systems very soon. :P

I hope AF speed will be fast enough for street shooters. I love the IQ on my Sony RX1, but not quite happy with AF speed :(
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Highest ISO for good quality video?

Axilrod said:
cayenne said:
Ive Lotus said:
Before MK III:
For the best noise performance shot at 160.
For the best latitude shot at 100 with just a very little more noise. You may notice it if you shoot at very low light.
In emergency cases shot at 320 or 640 but you will cope with some noise.

With the MK III go up to 3200 without worries :D
I dunno....I was asking because in the past, I wasn't too concerned about ISO going a little high, and I noticed my videos were plagued with noise, especially in the dark/black areas.

That's because you need at least a little bit of light, "shoots well in low-light" doesn't mean "shoots well in no light." Adding even a minimal amount of light will reduce the noise even at the same ISO.

+1 The only reason why you'd ever need really ridiculously high ISO is so you can stop the aperture down a bit, I think for 99% of situations that matter, you won't need to record video past ISO2500 with an f2.8 lens or brighter. Most wedding receptions with a decent lighting setup by the venue I usually shoot candids from the crowd at about ISO1250 anyway. However, there was this one time at a bar where I cranked my 5D mark III up to ISO 20,000 to expose my drunk friend (expose, in camera terms, lol)....Even then, the grain isn't all that bad if you compare it to most other cameras and normally, people won't really care as long you can still see a fair amount of detail in the image.
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Ever borrow from CPS

I'm a gold member and borrowed a 6d from them 2 wks ago and used it on a trip to DC. I didn't have much say in the dates as I was told it was a popular loan, but serendipity intervened. As a result of my experience with that loaner I bought a 6D that arrived today from B&H per the CR price watch page. Excellent.
Anyway.
I didn't even think about insurance, honestly; though Canon lists msrp of 5000 for the body, 24-105L and included accessories. I handled the loaner a little more attentively than my 7D - I was actually evaluating it for purchase, but I don't really bang around my equipment anyway. I sent it back 2-day guaranteed (56.00) which still isn't as expensive as renting as I have in the past, and the equipment is in new-to-refurb condition; which is better for making a true evaluation of it.
I will definitely borrow from Canon again, but expect to limit myself to items I am either considering purchasing, or items I could never imagine affording, in which case I will have to revisit the insurance question...
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First big job using FF - for all the FF nay-sayers

Wilmark said:
Is there such a thing as FF nay-sayers? I really doubt it. I think there are FF owners and those who would like to be be FF owners. And the 7D? I used to own one before - its low light performance was really discouraging. I hate to be blunt but the 7d (and the rest of canons line crop line up) sucks and any kind of low light. And those who say they like the 'reach' of the crop sensor cameras, reminds me of the day when people thought that Digital zoom was useful!

Ahem.
Practically it all comes down to whether your uses require more reach than your glass can give you.

If you crop an image shot on full frame you are using "digital zoom". If instead you switch to a good crop sensor, you can get much more detail on the subject.
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24-70Mk2 fell off my 5DMk3 and smashed

So after doing a lot of swapping out my new 24-70mm II the other day when I was performing some lens testing, I can kind of see what the OP is talking about. When I was behind the camera (tripod mounted, not much room to stand in front of the camera) it was more difficult to mount than my original 24-70mm. Trying to grip and twist resulted in zooming if I wasn't careful.

Of course, I'm always VERY cautious when mounting a lens, and make sure I hear and feel the click of a secured lens.

I still don't see how someone could accidentally hit the lens release button once the lens is attached, but everyone holds their camera differently.
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Migration from zooms to primes...your suggestions?

this is interesting since I have been also going with primes and leaving zooms for the most part espesially after going full frame last year with the 5Dmk3. I have tried a lot and have seen most of the ridicules pricing and this is what I'm currently using. Also keep in mind for stills mainly not so much video at this time.

Sigma 35 f1.4 Bitchen piece of glass
Sigma 85 f1.4 test the AF, i had to micro adjust 2+ on second copy, first one was way off. + CA is not the best.
Canon 100L f2.8, love this lens

And my last is a zoom for begger wildlife for now 70-300L I use this lens with Kenko DGX 1.4 and for compression factor.
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Curious Distraction: Explain your username, avatar picture, etc...

Valvebounce said:
No avatar or picture because I haven't found where to add it, or any of the other customisations like a signature bar, is this because so far I have only been accessing the forum on tablets, or is there a minimum number of contributions before I get this privilege?

The historic name for people from my location is Caulkhead the area is Isle of Wight southern England anyone else on here from there or are Devon and Cornwall as close as you get?
Am really enjoying the posts here, you all seem very friendly or at least tolerant as from the forums I haven't seen any real flaming or aggression which is cool.

Heh, regarding the flaming and aggression.... give it time! I'm from Exeter, Devon. You can customise your signature and avatar in the profile tab at the top of the screen and then the forum profile sub option on the drop down menu once you've racked up a few posts, not entirely sure of the exact number of posts required but certainly no more than 10.
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Gitzo Center Column Jammed

longtallkarl said:
we have a lot of gitzo's where i work, and they do get jammed sometimes. it's one of the few times that i usually just apply more force - rarely do i recommend that when fixing photo equip. but you could also try heating the center column knob with a hair dryer for a few minutes, and it might expand enough to loosen up a bit. good luck!

Not sure if heating will work (the tightening ring expanding more than cf column) or of cooling would be better. If the hair dryer does work, try putting the center plate and column inside a freezer ;)
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Advice on replacement/upgrade for my kit 18-55 Ef-s kit lens

If you like to shoot wide a lot I would suggest one of these two lenses.

Tamron 17-50 f2.8 for an EF-s solution at about $500US new or $350US used.

-or-

Canon 17-40 L f4 for an EF solution at about $700US new or $600US used.



If you are not shooting wide(ie 17-28mm) Then I would suggest one of these two lenses.

Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 for an EF solution at about $500US new or $350US used.

-or-

Canon 24-105mm f4 L IS for about $800 used(never pay retail for this lens, buy it from someone splitting up a kit)


All of the above have very nice IQ. The two L lenses are two of the most affordable L's and do have much better build quality then the Tamrons.
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EOS 7D Mark II Test Camera [CR1]

mcr1photo said:
-new to the forum- Aside from the fact that the sensor is cropped, will the image technology be the same as the 5D mark III?
The expectation is that it will be new technology and newer/more powerful processing power, and that it may have equivalent ISO capability of the 5D3.... That said, if such new technology emerges, it is a safe bet that a 5D4 is well along the design path and will probably emerge a half year or so after the 7D2 and will probably have 1 1/2 stops (or more) performance over the 7D2.
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Finally a DXOMark win for Canon

I just sold my old backup Canon 10D the other day. I'd have kept it, but needed a backup with liveview.

6MP is plenty to get nice printable images. I've owned most of the popular camera models including the D800. I liked them all. The main issue with the D800 is the difficulty involved in getting that extra resolution that it is capable of. It takes a very careful photographer to do it, and that's not me. Then, you need a powerful computer for any serious post processing, and editing 500 photos is a huge task.

I ended up staying with my 5D MK III, but seriously, any of the DSLR's can capture excellent images, and I'd be happy with any of them if that's what fate dealt me.


Hours before I sold the 10D, I snapped a photo to show the buyer. It was a quick snapshot, but printed nicely at 8 X 10.

untitled-901-XL.jpg
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Which Lens to buy

I enjoyed you portfolio of pictures on your website! Some really nice compositions.

My advice would be to pick up a 17-40mm lens since it expands you range of available focal lengths. Having a second body or 200mm lens would be nice, but doesn't really allow you to make shots you can't today. I have also been looking at adding a UWA zoom or prime at some point.

That said, since you are starting a photography business, adding a second body as "insurance" will be a good idea at some point.
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