• The Canon Rumors Forum has officially been shut down as of July 10, 2026.

    All data will be deleted on September 16, 2026.

    the ad free experience will return by July 17, 2026.

What's the normal battery drain for a 5D3 that's off?

Krob78 said:
Rienzphotoz said:
Krob78 said:
Skirball said:
Rienzphotoz said:
I have the same problem, battery drains within 4 or 5 days without any use ... But this only happens if I charge the battery with the charger that came with 5D MK III which is meant for USA switches (I bought my 5D MK III from USA but I love in Middle East) ... but when I use the old 60D charger to charge the battery than there is no problem.

Well that's interesting. Do the new ones trickle charge after the green light comes on? Or maybe just stopping early? Neuro, come edumacate us on the inner workings of the Canon chargers, past and present!
Hmm, that's interesting...
Interesting indeed ... I am not sure if it has anything to do with it being an American power compatible charger or if it is the charger itself ... I'm waiting for a friend of mine to come back from his holidays to test if his 5D MK III charger (also bought from USA) does the same thing.
I charge my 5d3 batteries in my 7d charger... ;)
... and I charge it with 60D charger now ;)
Upvote 0

Batteries and AF

Interesting that it was a refurb. Possible it was returned...camera was checked out but not the battery. Put up for sale as a refurb. I've often found...no every time I've found...that buying a refurb also buys you the previous owners issue. I generally stay away from refurbs. That being said, every refurb issue I found was always fixed under warranty...but it's the hassle you deal with to save a few dollars.


bseitz234 said:
Thanks all for the replies!

Lets see if I can answer all these questions:
-I do not use ML; not that crazy a question, I've considered it, but no, I'm using factory firmware.
-Longer version of the anecdote: she said she was manual focusing because the camera wasn't focusing, but she thought it was fine at the beginning. Looking at her shots, she nailed some running dogs, so I'm pretty sure it was fine when she got it, and died during that day.
-I have not really tested any of the batteries, since I usually recharge at the end of a day of shooting. But I have fired off 2k frames in one day of ski racing, and not had to change battery. Unfortunately don't remember which battery that was... Statistically speaking, twice as likely to be a third-party one, right? ;)
-battery terminals look clean to me
-both third party batteries AF right down to one bar.
-this OEM battery is ~5months old, can't have more than half a dozen load-cycles. Came with my 7d when I got it, refurb. Makes me less likely to bother returning it... If it is a faulty battery it seems more worth my time to recycle it and get another $15 wasabi power one... They've been great in my gopro for 2 years, and so far so good in this context as well.

Edit: because I got it from canon direct, I'm inclined to think its genuine. Now, it may be refurbed and already have a ton of load cycles, but I think it was in retail packaging...
Upvote 0

Replacement for Sigma 18-55

paul13walnut5 said:
Repair shop telling me £70+VAT for new barrell.

Can live with that, had it been much more I would have put it towards a new lens instead.

I've been very happy with the images from this lens, so if it can ride again then I'm happy.

Was quite looking forward to some fun ideas for a viking burial for a dead lens though...

If your lens wasn't going to be okay I would have suggested you turn it into a lens mug. Kind of like giving your pet to a taxidermist. Well, Execpt you can stuff your lens with coffee or ice cream :D
Upvote 0

ok so i did it and bought into FF... now i need a good standard zoom

Well first congrats on the ff. Should be great for landscapes to capture the color and lighting nuances. I like taking close ups of flowers in gardens whether at conservatories or at home, a park whatever. Then there's landscape like the Grand Canyons or the Swiss Alps, beaches, wetlands and the ocean. So decide what it is you want to capture in landscape. Then match the lens to your needs. I use a 24-70L and sometimes the 70-200L. If I were doing it all over again I'd weigh well the weight of the lens I"m comfortable carrying. If I wanted an all around lens I guess the 70-200 is terrific. But instead of a 24-70 I would look for a wide angle with a large aperture. You may not have such a need right now. The 24-105 is also very good. Remember u have to carry these suckers around perhaps all day maybe on long hikes. Good luck.
Upvote 0

5Dc a good option?

I know my 450D is a newer camera with a DIGIC III processor and the 5Dc has a DIGIC II processor, but would going back to an older processor matter?
yes.

With the 5Dc being full frame the ISO and image quality will be much better than the 450D, am I right?
yes.

Is there a big difference in image quality between the 5Dc and 5D MKII?
yes.

I do understand that the 5DMark ii is again better than the 5Dc, but I am trying to save money. I am basically asking is going from the 450D to a 5Dc a good option?
and yes again.
Upvote 0

Canon 5d Mark III Shadow recovery

Topaz DeNoise is a pretty useful tool that can help minimize banding. I will add the comment that it can make areas of the photo look smudgy and plasticky if overused, though. It can obliterate banding if you crank it up, but then you'll be left with lumpy/blotchy looking shadow areas. So, moderation is key. (Even in moderation, I find after trying to fix pattern noise with it, it's usually best to add grain back into the photo to help cover the plastic look.)
Upvote 0

Canon 700d/100d as a first DSLR or wait for 70d?

Sith Zombie said:
Hey, I wouldn't worry too much about resale value if I were you, lenses are the real investment. If it's your first DSLR I 'Right! this camera will last me for 4/5 years, by which time I'll have shot thousands of images, learned a heck of a lot about photography and know my camera better than my wife'
Haven't you read the thread about somebody looking over your shoulder?
You are either very brave or not married... ;)

Btw, I agree with what you say. It is technique that one has to master. Bodies will come and go...
Upvote 0

Prime vs zoom

A prime trinity is down to your own preferance really. The idea is to have a wide, standard and tele. I don't really see how in this digital age a 35, 50, 85 combo would be that useful. You might as well spend the money on a good standard zoom. 24, 50, 100 is a nice spread and would be awesome with a 100 macro at the long end. Portrait photogs generally pref the 35, 85, 135 which is what most people regard as the Canon holy trinity so I guess it's the most agreed upon.
Upvote 0

300mm F/2.8 non-IS... worth it?

Good tip not to worry about it breaking, I guess I'm just a bit paranoid because it will be the most expensive thing I buy yet!

Definitely going to be getting a converter with it as well. Even with the additional reach of the 1D Mark IIN I find it 300mm too short for rugby, I had the 300mm F/4 on the 40D which was a good bit better but my 40D's IQ is just terrible in comparison, I don't like the shots it produces, no where close to as much detail and I get way more shots out of focus.

Now I just have to save a bit more money before taking the plunge!

Thanks for all the help.
Upvote 0

Speedring for alien bees help.

agierke said:
buy the speedring that PCB sells on their website. the connection to modifiers is typically universal (some rare instances where a modifier wont fit that well) so you have to buy the speedring that will mount to whatever light you are using.

So which one should I get with the AB1600? Seems like these are for the retired units?

http://www.paulcbuff.com/speedrings.php
Upvote 0

400 2.8

I don't shoot wildlife. But this spring I'm shooting track & field and golf. I am taking my 400 f/2.8L IS I tomorrow and Monday for the golf tournament (one camera A) and a 70-200 f/2.8L IS II on camera B. I did a track meet today and while the 300 f/2.8L IS I was great, there were times when I reallly could have used the 400. For instance, sun was going overhead, and from closest to farthest away from me, you had 1. pole vault, 2. javelin (center of track), and 3. long jump (other side of infield). I could have easily gotten pole vault with the zoom and both javelin and long jump with the 400, but alas, I had the 300 and long jump was iffy so I moved.
Upvote 0

Canon Inc. Announces Development Of 35mm Cinema Prime Lens, Sixth In A Series Of Compact, Lightweigh

Re: Canon Inc. Announces Development Of 35mm Cinema Prime Lens, Sixth In A Series Of Compact, Lightw

RGF said:
How large effect is the focus breathing on primes vs zooms? I have heard it can be a problem with macro photography and focus stacking.

I tend to have more issues with wind/subject motion than focus breathing/macro rail displacement. When focus stacking in PS, you can have the software try to align the source photos to each other before blending them together. The software also scales the photos appropriately.
Upvote 0

New patents for Canon fast primes

mb66energy said:
RGF said:
Patents do not guarnatee production. Sometimes they are done to hold IP.

Shure, but these patents show typical lens designs which penetrate the market since a few years: Standard lenses with a negative front element. This is well known from wide angle lenses for (D)SLRs which use retrofocus designs to give enough space between last lens and image plane.

If I read the patent correctly Canon has decided to use a retrofocus design instead of a double gaussian design to avoid problems with longitudinal CAs: The retrofocus design gives more variability to introduce more lenses/alternative lens geometries to adress longitudinal CA correction without compromising other parameters.

Longitudinal CAs are the main problem with high aperture lenses which aren't easily removed during post processing - I am shure that these patents have a good chance to flow into real products!

Just my 2ct - Best, Michael

Which is also what Zeiss announced a while back, with their 50mm f/1.4 Distagon (Distagon is their retrofocus, normally found in 21-35mm, or 40-65mm on Medium Format).
Either canon's going down the same path, or they're at least going to patent some to block zeiss.
Upvote 0

Sub £100 Nikon Lens for Airshows

Haydn1971 said:
So potentially the older faster primes are going to be a non starter - any thoughts on the cheapo 55-200 ?

The old non VR 55-200 has reasonable resolution for the price, its a bit cheaply constructed, so don't batter it around.

Its going to be a struggle as far as AF and shutter speed, a slow aperture and limited ability to use high ISO settings before noise becomes a problem.
It sounds like the best compromise for your buck, a manual focus lens might be pretty frustrating for flying aircraft, but for those on the ground, it should be easy. Just make sure he keeps his shutter speed to 1/250 or more when zoomed out.
A rental of a faster lens might also be something to consider, but it won't be cheap either.

Here is a review.

http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/245-nikkor-af-s-55-200mm-f4-56-g-ed-dx-review--test-report
Upvote 0

Filter

Forum statistics

Threads
37,480
Messages
975,426
Members
24,816
Latest member
GLBDD

Gallery statistics

Categories
1
Albums
29
Uploaded media
372
Embedded media
1
Comments
25
Disk usage
1 GB