fosterscape said:

jdramirez said:

Kudos. I guess I was late to the party, but you will be happy with the 7D... It's an great camera.

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Thanks. I definitely want to look at upgrading the lens kit after this. I did look at the 60D, but in the end I thought the build quality (ruggedness) of the 7D was better for my needs. I was hoping to see a 70D announcement that might be in my price range, but in the end I decided to keep my budget under $1000 and I doubt a new 70D with tax would be under $1000 when ever it is announced.

That said my long term goal is to get to a 5d Mark III, so I think the 7D will be a good filler for a few years while the prices of a used 5D Mark III keep dropping.

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For what it is worth, I think $2500 is the butter zone for the mkiii and where it will stay for the life of the camera... until the mk iv comes outs. That's a bit of a guess, but if you look at the 5d mkii, the price before the mkiii was on its way was $2200 and I think a $300 premium for a really substantial upgrade seems more than fair. Actually, $2600 would be fair... but I only want to pay $2500.

There's a deal right now, but there's an itch that I think I can do better and get the price down just a bit more... I hope I'm right, otherwise I just let a good deal pass by.

Also, I wasn't discussing it earlier, but if your XT still works, you can probably sell that for maybe $200 used... it really depends on how many people want to jump into the SLR pool but hope their skills make up for the extreme lack of technology.

Sporgon said:

Hope this is of interest

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Very informative. Also lovely pictures. I love your architectural shots. It feels like I am actually being there.

wickidwombat said:

by the way pop a 12mm extension tube on a 40mm and it does a pretty decent job of being a macro

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You should try it with the 25mm tube. I made a youtube video of it. http://youtu.be/giNI_Ytr2ao

Anthony

LetTheRightLensIn said:

RGF said:

I normally use Sandisk Extreme Pro CF cards in my 5D M3 and then several people told me that they don't fill the buffer using a 1000x CF card. I tried the Lexar 1000x card and the buffer still fills up. I seem to get a few more shots before the buffer fills with the Lexar 1000x.

Has anyone tried other cards that are fast enough so that they buffer never fills?

Thanks

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You want to avoid RAW+JPG though as the buffer for that can still fill fast. JPGs go without filling up. RAWs go for a long time. RAW+JPG can hit the buffer pretty easily.

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I do highest quality raw + lowest quality Jpg... so not best of both worlds... but good enough.

Canon-F1 said:

syncspeed is 1/180s not 1/160s.. i hope your review is not full of such errors.

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And in practice there is Naf all difference between 1/180 and 1/200 anyway

I currently have the Canon S100, but I am contemplating purchasing the Sony RX100 for a better quality pocketable camera.

There are two things holding me back from making the purchase:

* The RX100 focus range is 28-100mm, and I'd prefer 24mm on the lower end.
* Canon, or a competitor, will release a better pocketable camera in 2013.

How likely is it that Canon will release a Powershot S120 with a 1" sensor, or another competitor, in 2013?

Thanks

Darkmatter said:

I see at the top in the address that it says USA.

Does this mean that you can't buy any of their refurb stuff if your from Canada?

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That's true, unless you can have it shipped to a friend in the USA.

Additionally, on the 1D4, instead of having it slow down shutter, you can have it open aperture if you're not already wide open.

Hi,
just bought an excellent 16-35 F/2.8 L USM II second hand and tested it at insane ISOs yesterday...
My youngest son liked it...After a few tests in the past six month I guess, if you wanna get a decent b/w, 51k for the 5D3 is the limit with a light source like this. But I am more than happy, to be able to push things that far. Everything done in DPP, NR at about 14/18.

Z96A3565bBWKLEINALT by Peter Hauri, on Flickr
ISO 51200

Z96A3556bBWKLEIN by Peter Hauri, on Flickr
ISO 102400

KKCFamilyman said:

jdramirez said:

Has this query been posed yet... "Do you still love your wife?" I think that would sway my suggestion.

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Of course not sure how thats relevant?

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I think you are missing punctuation... it can be interpreted in a few ways...

The most likely candidate is: Of course! Not sure how that's relevant.
But I like: Of course NOT! Sure....? How's that relevant?

So, first, you can have my four Einsteins...when you pry them from my cold, dead hands.

That out of the way, since the topic has shifted to wall color...you actually want both black and white, often at the same time.

My solution was to paint the walls white and make a bunch of black velvet drapes, including ones I can stretch across the ceiling. With one each black and white Savage vinyl backdrop the same dimensions as the floor, I can turn the room into a black box, a white box, or any combination of either. In a 50' cube of a studio, you don't have to worry about undesired bounce. In your typical suburban home, if you want to control bounce, your only choice is something like what I've done.

In a similar vein...your local home improvement store will sell inexpensive solid styrofoam insulation in 4' x 8' sheets. One side will be flat neutral white (with a clear plastic protective coating with writing designed to be peeled off and discarded) and the other side will be silvered. These make for awesome monster-sized reflectors! You can also paint the white side black (the things are dirt cheap, so get as many as you need) and you've now got an impromptu room divider / giant barn door / whatever. With a bit of tape, you can turn them into v-flats and paint them any color you like. You can also peel off the silvered side if you want white and black or black and black (or white and white or whatever). Also look for 2' x 4' sheets of the same stuff in the same section, both sizes in practically any thickness you could want. All of these you can cut down however you like with just a utility knife.

Enjoy!

b&

timmy_650 said:

Dylan777 said:

rihanishtiaq said:

Don't go for a FF unless you are a serious shooter. I think you should stick to 60D/T4i if you don't spend much time on photography.
The T4i has higher ISO range but the difference is very little.
And about the 70D, it will be very pricey for first few months. At that price or less you will easily get a used 5D markII.

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I'm not serious shooter, just a dad with 2 kids. I shoot with 5D III and my little P&S is RX1.

Higher ISO range doesn't mean cleaner image in lower light. It's all about sensor size - you will have more water when carry bigger bucket.

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I know people who have txi (what ever number you want 1-4) who are serious shooter bc they are always taking pictures. Others is 5D mark ii and iii who aren't they just need to have top of the line stuff.

If this is your first DSLR, I would say just pick up a used 60D, see if you will use one. I know plenty of people who got a dslr and like the P&S better bc they take it places.
You can always sell your 60D again and probably only lose $50-100 in a few months.

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Agreed... the worst camera is the one that isn't used. But even more important than that... learn how to use the thing. Some people (if not most) buy a camera and assume automatic will get better results than they can get... which is a crock. Get a book... heck get a book now and learn depth of field, lighting and composition...

There will be no personal photography it will be illegal, everything will be copy write
…. and on that depressing note good night! :'(

Synomis192 said:

... I mainly shoot at family parties and friendly gatherings. Occasionally I do some landscape photography and interior/exterior photography of buildings

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Try shooting with the 50mm f/1.8 ONLY for awhile. Zoom with your feet. Photos of family and friends look better when shot at a shorter focal length ... 200mm is way too impersonal.

"Robert Capa once said, “If your pictures aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” Capa wasn’t advocating the use of longer lenses; he was telling us to physically get closer — to become more involved and intimate with our subjects. In fact, a wide-angle lens is often a better choice than a telephoto lens when you want to “zoom in” on your subject." http://rising.blackstar.com/if-your-pictures-arent-good-enough-youre-not-close-enough.html

Photography is all about taking meaningful pictures ... not about collecting gear.

Thanks to all of you,
that altogether was the best help I got here so far.
I had no clue that the MKII is out of Support and the fact that the 3ds has already the 60d style menus is really helpfull. I have passed onthe 1dMKII.
In my area used 1D MKIII will sell around 1200 Euro, a !DS MKIII for 2500 Euro
So I will enter new teritory and give the APSH a try.
many thanks again...

privatebydesign said:

After using all three methods, traditional, back button AF, back button AF off, I settled on the last, it has all the advantages of independent control that traditional doesn't, but not the thumb committing and tiring disadvantage of method two. I strongly recommend people play with all their settings to find out what works best for them in any particular scenario.

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I shoot like private does with AF-On as AF Off, and I really like it for the same reasons he mentions.
It blows the mind of my bird shooting friends, but it works well for me. I find that I find the need to kill AF far more than I find selectively activating AF useful.

No problem Cheers

The 17-40L can take photos indoor handheld without flash, but it will often make the camera jump up to ISO 12,800. I'm using a 5D3. If I were shooting indoors a lot and needed a zoom I would consider the 16-35L II instead. The same ISO 12,800 shot at f/4 on the 17-40 would be ISO 6,400 shot at f/2.8 on the 16-35. If you are almost exclusively indoors and still want to shoot handheld with no flash, and don't mind giving up zoom, you'll want to go with a fast aperture prime lens such as the 24mm f/1.4L. The same ISO 12,800 shot at f/4 on the 17-40 would be ISO 1600 on the 24 prime at f/1.4. In this situation you're trading sensor noise for lower depth of field though.

brad-man said:

Rienzphotoz said:

brad-man said:

You might also consider a Tamron SP24-70 f/2.8 VC. It's sharper than the Canon mk l

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I have the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC and I agree that it is a good choice but it is definitely not sharper than the 24-70 f/2.8 MK I ... if VC/IS is not important to you, it is better to get the 24-70 f/2.8 MK I (if you can find one).

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our favorite-DxOmark

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Ha ha ha ... don't drag me there ;D ;D ;D

brad-man said:

Roger @ LR and our favorite-DxOmark says that not only is it sharper than ver 1, it is a close second to version 2. The price and VC are just gravey...

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I'm no expert like Roger of LR or DxO but in my very limited experience I found the sharpness of EF 24-70 L & 24-70 VC to be in distinguishable ... but when it comes to the sharpness of EF 24-70 L II the Tamron is no match ... I had the 24-70 L II, unfortunately it was stolen ... bcoz I could not pay another $2200, so I went with the 24-70 VC plus I got it for over $250 less than the regular US price ... its a brilliant lens and worth the money but if I could, I would still go with the 24-70 L II.

I use a Lee filter polarizer/ND combination due to the range of movements that I employ with this excellent lens...

The other thing you should look into is the Adobe Flat field plug-in for Lightroom. This plug-in lets you calibrate the raw processing of images taken with shift to reduce/eliminate the CA and other optical issues that occur when using a lot of shift. Check it out at Adobe labs.

George Pappas

Don't take too many pictures of my food... just appears 85 1.2 could be an overkill and 200m could be a tad too long.

Do you know how to create photo canvas. I know how to get quality photo canvas.

___________________
photo canvas

paolotaverna said:

1- I tried to remove battery.....nothing
2- removed lens..and re-attached
3- put in my 50 f1.2 ....nothing

i changed the priority to release...took one shot...then put back my setting or priority to focus..and all was good after that

now i can't reproduce it

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I had similiar but different problem
Just bought the camera on 13 March After a few days and around my 50000 shot my focus problem started.
( ps I mainly use 12FPS mode and the 70-200 2.8 is usm and similiar(16-35 2.8) or worse(70-300 DO) for other lens)
( I am doing a shooting for the same dancing concert for 9 consecutive days it occur after the 4th day and the first few days were perfectly fine )
from time to time I cannot focus in one shot mode. as soon as switch I back to MF for 1 or 2 shutter release and turn back to AF it works again, then after a while it happen again. and repeatable. The AF ok period seems to deteriorate after another 5000-10000 shot.

Then I start to try the Ai-servo mode. Seems like the first few shot is out then in focus for a long period in ai-servo mode. If I switch back to single-shot the above will happen again.

Any one have any suggestions (take back to repair?)

Re: 5D2 Refurb Received - Shutter Actuations

I believe my refurb 7D came with 2-3K actuations. I could not check them until software arrived that worked for it, but I knew about how many shots I took before I check the actuations.. I was pleasant surprised to see about 200 actuations on my refurb 5D MK II that I bought last July.
Its pretty easy with that camera to shoot over 1000 images in a day.

Cory said:

I'm tossing around keeping my T1i and maybe adding one of the upcoming Rebels. Maybe the little one with a little prime.
If I do that (or even go with the little prime on my T1i and maybe a 7D II one day) would I be using the same Canon software for both cameras or would I use the software that came with my T1i for the T1i and the new software with the new camera? And, if the latter, would the correct software recognize the right camera?
And my processing software is LR4.
Thanks for any insight into that whole topic.

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If you buy a new Canon DSLR, the software that comes with it is backward compatible to older models.
You will have to wait for Lightroom 4 to be updated, but you can use DPP to convert raws for one or 10,000 images in a batch and send them to Lightroom as .tiff images.