White residue on 1DX top dial?
- EOS DSLR
- 8 Replies
It is just sweat on the dial from your finger... just clean it off with some rubbing alcohol or water and a washcloth/toothbrush and your good to go!
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Nate said:Hello there,
I Have now a 50 1.4 and thats the length that I love most for portraits. I tried more 50L but I dont fell them that much better than my 50 1.4.
What do you guys think? When will a new 50 1.2 be released?
-Nate
neuroanatomist said:The first is possible now. Av mode, and Custom Controls to switch the QCD to ISO (see p. 341). With that, ISO is set during metering only. With that setting in M mode, you set aperture/shutter when metering is inactive, and once you start metering you can adjust ISO.caruser said:
- Give ISO the same importance as time and aperture (e.g. put aperture on one wheel, iso on the other, and time in auto).
- Sometimes I want to simply change a custom-mode from e.g. Tv to M or similar, which doesn't seem possible (please correct me if I'm wrong).
You can't change the base mode of a C# setting. Canon could fix that for the 1D X, it seems to be a legacy of having a mode dial (the 1D X is the first to have C# settings and no mode dial).
tomscott said:Ye but you give a pro a 300D and he will make incredible pictures with it. What I meant was the best camera is the one you have with you as in being comfortable carrying and using it. Getting the shot is more important IMO. everything is a compromise and just because you can afford to doesn't necessarily make it a good value purchase for you. But then again life is short so do it while you can on the flip side.
Many pros work in this way, unless you are a sports or wildlife shooter it is cheaper to rent for when you need. I understand that shooting with the white primes is better but comparing the zooms to point and shoots just isnt correct. Although the MKI 70-200mm IS is the least sharp of the 2.8 70-200mm zooms its still a quality piece of glass. But the 24-70 MKII and the 70-200 MKII have many a time been comparable or better than their prime equivalents.
Again same with the 1DX it is more than twice the price of the 5DMKIII but the 5DMKIII is 90% of the camera. 6fps is nothing to be sniffed at either, 14 is incredible but in most situations overkill. As a gear head and lover of new tech I completely understand the want but what about the need? IMO the 5DMKIII is the best all round camera ever made and it surprises me everyday. Again it is a lot more useable and easier to travel with than the beast 1DX.
As a pro weight is a huge concern, with having two bodies and lenses that cover a broad range lugging it around can juts be inconvenient. But that is my personal preference.
If the best is all you can have then go for it, but there are other options that will create a similar result but cost a weigh a lot less.
Dianoda said:AudioGlenn said:I love my 40!
Same here, it's such a perfect pairing for unobtrusive general photography on my 5D. I think it and a 6D would make a wonderful compact/stealth kit. Canon really needs to make an equivalent lens for EF-S mount, the shorty 40's just a bit too much telephoto for my tastes on APS-C.

neuroanatomist said:My vote: None of the above - use both if at all possible.
Also, consider the lens - I can't see using a monopod routinely with a 'light' lens like a 70-200...
They actually just updated this lens, so, while not as cheap, it should work with all newer cameras.axtstern said:Sigma 30mm 1.4
really small, old school lens, not sure if the electronic works with anything newer than 60d
Well, for shooting portraits and candids, the reach may be really useful. Likewise the IS in a lower light scenario. I went from the 70-200 f/4L IS to the 200 f/2.8 because it was faster and I shot a lot of action (and used it mostly at 200mm anyway). So, IS didn't help me, but the extra stop does.wickidwombat said:do you need the zoom or the reach?
considered just picking up a 200 f2.8L
no IS either but it is a stop faster and is smaller and less conspicuous
VitorMachado said:Skirball said:I was starting to get worried, it took much longer than normal for all the gearheads to come out and start chanting their 5d3 mantra.
OP: I own the 6D. I almost didn't buy it after reading all the S___ on here about it. But I went for it, and realized that most the people on here obsess about gear WAY too much. Good on you for taking a good look at what you need, and what you don't. Yes, more is better, but cost is a factor for almost all of us. Get the 6D, you'll be happy with it.
Lol, I have to agree with you. The 6D gets no respect whatsoever because of its specs on paper, rather than criticizing the camera in real-world shooting. Anyways, I'm glad I got a reply from someone in my situation. I just simply don't have the cash to throw down an extra 1K on a camera. I have done extensive research and I think I've made up my mind. The 7D has been returned and I'm waiting on my refund. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully I made the right choice!
dave_bass5 said:Does no one read their manuals these days?
Its all written in the manual as clear as it could be. Wouldn't the manual for the camera you own be the first point of call?
Its on page 324 for anyone that is confused.
YuengLinger said:polarhannes said:Maybe this is of help for you http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=13269.msg238526#msg238526 this does not describe how to cycle through the AF points the way you would like it to be but at least you can quickly switch between 2 different AF points.
Thanks! I'm going to try this ASAP. Wonderful to have an AF guide tailored specifically to the 5DIII!