Canon vs Sigma MFA

The Canon adjustment is to the body only. Newer bodies keep track of the lens serial number, which is important since the adjustment is specific to a given combination of body and lens (the particular copy, not model).

The Sigma adjustment is to the lens only, which makes sense since Sigma cannot control the camera body. The upside to that is the adjustments are much more comprehensive. For example, different AMFA values can be applied at different subject distances for a Sigma lens via the dock. The downside is the corollary to the above statement – the appropriate adjustment is specific to a particular body and lens combination. If you shoot with only one body, that's not a problem. However if you shoot with more than one body, you might be in trouble – I've had AFMA values vary by over 10 units from one body to another for the same copy of a given lens.

The Canon AFMA should work with any lens, including the Sigma macro. Newer bodies will not recognize the serial number of a Sigma lens, of course.
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Canon 70D has issues with kenko TC, as reported for 6D and 5DIII

Skulker said:
If you're using Dual pixel AF is there any point in setting AFMA? Won't it be like live view in that it works on the actual focus on the sensor not the separate focus system.

Correct, yet I also use the 400mm with conventional PD AF. So I do not need AFMA for DPAF, it is just that I have to remember to switch that off before I attach the teleconverter. In fact, i find it strange that a function that has no actual utility in liveview can compromise that mode...
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Wait for the Canon 5D Mark IV or get the Mark III?

Marsu42 said:
Krob78 said:
Is there a website that I can watch for updates or news or any of that sort of thing regarding ML?
They have got a nice forum: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum ... look in the "new ports" section for updates on your camera, generally you will want to use the nightly releases since they include the latest features/fixes and are probably more stable than anything else.

Thanks Marsu!
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EF-s prime lenses?

chilledXpress said:
Buy a 35L and put some gaff on it with a label calling it an EF-s 56mmL, it will work beautifully.

It will work. Beautifully? Not really. It will be soft wide open, with noticeable LoCA. The reason is that it is designed for FF, as a WA lens. It needs to cover a larger circle, with decent performance near the edges. When you remove those constraints, the design could be more "normal" but still affected by the relative large flange distance. The lens would lose some weight, as well.
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Speedlite Recycle Time and Custom Function 12

recycle time may be a factor...
switch to function 12 battery pack charge first...
switch battery packs to quantum or goddox type rechargeable... easier to manage top off.
for main light that seems to be recycling slow... double the flash heads (speedlights)...
or maybe ganging 4X... 2 will be twice as powerful and or recycle faster..
running out of flash power will give you an under exposed shot... sometimes one flash is not enough... they are wonderfully versatile but only speedlights with limited output.
good luck
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Off Brand: Nikon Announces the Df

This is the ugliest camera i have ever seen. it looks like a cheap nikon from every angle and the "classic" parts are really ugly and don't go together with the modern camera parts and doesn't even look classic or retro.

I really hope canon doesn't go with this design trend ever..

If it had a full metal body similar to the old ones this would be what it was meant to be.
It would still be ugly though.

Leica's are supermodels and the nikon df is a 60 year old grandma putting on some makeup and entering a beauty pageant.
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The Canon Dream CEO

Specifics of what a CEO / CFO does is irrelevant, I am simply using the term figuratively- as if I had the power to do whatever I wanted with the company.

I do agree with you, but I have no doubt that Canon could become even more competitive and profitable in regards to their DSLR sector, if they cleaned up and streamlined their product line with less choices.

And now, they have to drastically improve their sensors and consumer appeal because of competition from Sony A7R, RX1, RX10, Nikon D800E, DF, Olympus e5, fuji x100s, etc.

I really hope Canon has some answers. These are exciting times for the world of photography technology and it is a good thing to see competition. I definitely need my next camera to have a sensor at least on par with the detail from the 36mp Sony's, and improved dynamic range. But in the meantime, my 5d mk3 is well balanced.
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135 F1.8L IS

ksagomonyants said:
Could any of you guys comment on the image quality of Canon 135 f2 vs. Zeiss 138 1.8 T and Zeiss 135 f2 ZE? I've had Canon 135 f2 and I really loved it for outdoor portraits. I've just heard that Zeiss 135 f1.8 T has more pleasant color rendition than Canon, is that true? Sorry for off top. Thank you, guys.

Without being too scientific, 135/1.8 ZA is more or less equal to the stellar 70-200/2.8L IS II (i.e. slightly better than classic 135L), while Zeiss 135/2 ZE easily destroys both and performes on par with super telephoto lenses (200/2L IS)
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Future Who needs a 1dxii or 7diii?, Why Photo Cameras could become obsolete

You're forgetting that capturing a photo vs. recording a video are two different things. From what I've read on the Black Magic's 4k camera, it can only record video. Sure, you can pull a still frame from a video clip but the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO settings will be far more limited compared to simply capturing a photo to begin with. Example, video recorded at 24 fps cannot have a shutter speed slower than 1/24, thereby eliminating the possibility of capturing a longer exposure.

DSLRs, mirrorless cameras, and many compact cameras have had the ability to capture a photo or record a video for years now. The limitation I stated above is the very reason why the two will naturally remain two distinct activities. Yes, there will be overlap such as time lapse photography converted to video or pulling a still frame from a video clip, but only working within the confines within this overlap will prove to be very limiting.
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Yosemite - 5D mkIII w/ Magic Lanter Raw

Great job!

Impressive composition of music too- very talented. Even with the fire damage, the beauty of it makes me want to go- a must fotr 2014- any specific site recommendations?

Also, off topic a bit, I looked at ml for my 5D III but found the documentation spartan and hard to understand. Any trouble with it, and what did it do for you outside of the video ( I also saw that it really cleans up low light noise).

Thanks in advance, and keep up the great creative work.

sek

Cgdillan said:
I haven't posted any videos here for a while so I thought I'd share my latest.

https://vimeo.com/78719456

I shot the entire video in ML Raw except for the areal footage which was shot on a GoPro 3 Black. I made the music as well. Hope you enjoy! Let me know what you think! (I know there is some jiggle in parts of the areal footage, my props were not balanced at the time of shooting)
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BP511(a) vs. AA in a grip

Aglet said:
Good quality NiMH AA cells should provide as much performance as a good OEM BP511, much more actually.
Try Sanyo Eneloop

The eneloops work great in my flash.
The Ni-MH 2.7Ah batteries from the same brand that I have lying around got me thinking about it.

I use a grip with AAs on the film bodies, but I do not take as many pictures with them.
I was able to rely on alkalines in an emergency in the past, which is really nice.

Thanks guys.
I'll try to get a grip on this battery problem =)
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New owner's manual

IslanderMV said:
I had my manual stolen - along with my photo backpack while shooting wildlife. I downloaded the PDF manual to my iPad. While not the same as a paper manual, it has a few benefits. Since PDF's are searchable, you can find anything in a flash.
Did you ask Canon for a replacement print manual? I did for my one series and they sent one free of charge, said it was one of the perks of owning a 1 series camera. This was 2 or 3 years ago.
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Video Question: What can I do to make it easier to see if the video is in focus

Keep in mind that monitors and EVFs add another level of complexity with cables, batteries, mounts, and settings. The loupes like the Zacuto Z-Finder are dead simple. They just snap on the back and you're there.
A big part of your decision should be based on your shooting style. Are you in the studio on sticks? A monitor will be fine. Are you shooting handheld outside? Loupe will be light, block the sunlight, and provide a point of contact to steady your camera. I use both, depending on the situation I'm in but most of the time I'm using the Z-Finder instead of a monitor.
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Tamron Announcing New 150-500 Shortly? [CR1]

But for all the reasons you mentioned, this is a very versatile, remarkable lens that is easy to take along with several other lenses and another body.

sek

Khufu said:
Don Haines said:
hoodlum said:
Someone needs to come out with a current high quality 400mm f5.6 prime. I would switch systems for a high quality handheld bird lens.
I think that there are a lot of people interested in a new version of the 400F5.6.... I would get it....

I love my 400mm f/5.6L... Is there anything this "lot" of people need from it that it doesn't have/do?! Weather sealing, sure, but asides from that I love it's relatively light weight and small size without IS/zoom/wider aperture - coupled with the 5D3 sensor's ISO handling this thing's even incredible when losing daylight!
I guess closer focusing would be nice but that'd maybe ruin the magical optical formula! ;)
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