wikipedia tells me that the 40D uses lithium ion batteries - and these babies go downhill after 2 years/500 cycles (rule of thumb )

So a new one might not really solve the problem as this two year limit begins when it leaves the factory.
Try to find out the production date...

Actually...

just re-reading the question...

are you confusing shutter speed with frame rate perhaps?

Yes the 180 degree rule is desirable, but not an absolute deal breaker.

Did you mean to shoot at 60fps rather than 30fps? FPS is independent from shutter speed, for 60fps you would probably want a shutter of 1/125th.

Either way you are stuck with what you've shot. Apps like compresser (apple only) can alter the viewing rate, but this will obviously affect your clip length and subject motion. Most NLE's let you mix and match frame rates, and do a decent enough job of repeating or interpolating.

Guys, I'm wondering if we can collate a set of web links which points to sites which show T-Stop listings for Canon lenses?
DP review are now adding T Stop listings for their reviews, starting with the new 24-70 f2.8 II L. But they aren't retrospectively re-working all their other reviews. So I'm wondering if there's any other sources? DXO optics list a single T-Stop value for their lens reviews...but this is only good for primes. Zooms need at least two values, one from each end of the zoom.

TrumpetPower! said:

This is a very good point. It's why lenses are calibrated in T-stops rather than F-stops over in the cinema world.
Cheers,

b&

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Do you know of a web site which charts the T-Stop values for Canon lenses? Do they chart zooms across their focal length too? Most constant aperture zooms are not fixed T-Stop zooms. A lens T-Stop value can also change according to how close it's focussed. I've yet to see a review site which comprehensively tests this criterior. DXO mark seems to have a single T Stop value per lens, which is useful for a prime but not very usefull for a zoom....a 24-70 f2.8 L will need testing at 24mm and 70mm and probably every major focal point in between.

I've never heard anything about Canon refurbs... Never. Good deal on the 5DIII!

A couple examples from the 5d2 and 24-105 combo shot last year. I now have a 5d3, but am still using the 24-105, though I have since added some additional lenses. I think it is worthwhile for you to get the 6D kit, and may buy a 6D for myself in future as backup

i like my nissin ones... but not as good as recycle time as me canon ones

I highly recommend these cases for holding your filters
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/735394-REG/Tiffen_4BLTPCHLGK_Belt_Filter_Pouch_Large.html

Thanks for sharing and completley agree. There are a ton of video tutorials out there for setting up this flash system - in my opinion, this is by far the best. Informative yet simple and without being either overly complicated or patronising.

Thats very good advice, although ive never had any eyesight problems, and I think you're refering to using a prism finder on the hasselblad? because there are waist level finders easily avalable, is there a diffrence between them and on on a rolli tlr?
[/quote]

I did indeed find a distinct difference between the waist level finder on the Hassy and that on the Rollei TLR.

And I could never get a good view through the Hassy, while the Rollei always works for me.

Try one and see. You might have no trouble at all...

Thanks everyone, I've received a lot of good tips here. The website comparison you provided Z did a great job of letting me check out the sharpness of the various lenses (especial at the corners and at different apertures). I already own a Canon 17-40mm and a 24-105mm, looks like I'll use the 17-40 for most shots within this range and the 24-105 for anything above. The corners look really soft on the 24-105 in the corners wide open but the 17-40 is a complete work around. If I'm working in a more low light environment I'll just stick with my Canon 50mm 1.4 as it's tack sharp for these types of shots. Thanks again!!

Congrats! The 5D M3 is a great camera.

drmikeinpdx said:

Thanks for the recommendation Neuro. I ordered that one from B&H. It's worth a bit more to get one that fits.

Now I need to buy a lens to fit my Hong Kong ring!

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How over sized is it? I bought a "better quality" Fotodiox Pro collar for my 70-200 f/4L IS from Amazon that didn't quite tighten completely. I ran 2 strips of quality electrical tape around the inside of the collar and now it is rock solid...

Hey all. I am just starting out with strobes and was wondering if you could recommend a wireless trigger for my set up.

I currently own a Pocket Wizard Transmitter and Receiver but they are expensive. I have been using it for a few years now to trigger my off camera speed light (430 exII). Now I am adding a strobe to the mix (Alien Bee 1600) and was wondering if I should go with the CyberSyncs?

Thanks 8)

Great review, and you have some amazing images up on your site.

I also like the post on Visualization. Great stuff.

jrbdmb said:

Well, at least the problem with the 5d III can be corrected over time, and at around $2900 new this issue may already have been fixed. Fixing an underspec'd 6D on the other hand ... not so easy.

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But it is - sell the 6d for €1200. The 6d as well as the 5d3 have weaknesses, obviously the 6d more than the 5d3, and "underspeced" for the 6d is only related to the competition (d600) and the current price. Just like the 5d3 is also just another camera and there are better current models (1dx) and there will be newer replacements to come, maybe sooner than later.

In the interest of adding to your confusion...I would check the specific printing company's equipment.
This method sure looks interesting..."Adobe® Extreme Printing" and Progressive Printing with a DCS Direct Jet Flatbed Inkjet Printer

John Strung said:

Personally, I use live view, set the shutter to a 20 second delay and fire it using the infrared remote.

But in this case, I still thing the blurriness is caused by thermals rising from the canyon.

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Interesting thought, John. I would never have thought about the rising thermals. Thanks!

Thanks for all the great responses. Peterson generally recommends putting the foreground elements very close - f/22 is pretty much necessary when you do that.

polarhannes said:

Instead of focussing to infinity you could focus to the hyperfocal distance which can increase the effective DOF. You most probably already knew that and still need more DOF, but I thought I could mention it. Of course this does not deal with all issues, especially if your foreground is pretty close.

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I have tend to shoot most of my landscape shots at f/8 or f/11 focusing at or near the hyperfocal distance for the lens (or estimating 1/3 into the shot if I don't have time to look it up with a zoom lens). I plan to experiment with Peterson's f/22 method, maybe improved composition can help make up for loss of sharpness and sharp edge/halo effect in some cases?

notapro said:

I've replaced the batteries, and everything is perfect again. How nice to have so easy a fix. I'm glad you suggested the battery possibility, Studio1930.

Thanks to everyone who's chimed in on my question. This forum is a wonderful place.

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No problem. I have a set of triggers that sometime lag a bit with weak batteries as well.

I got some 380 custom brackets thing. I think it is the best bracket ever for anything.

Photog are one of the types of geek that can be buff and tanned. Take advatage of it. Sell the f4, use the f2.8 work out.

ed24 said:

Hello CR crew,

I'm in the market for a nice 35mm prime, pref some thing old with a little character. I purchasea Carl Zeiss 2.4 Prakticar PB mount and unfortunately it striked the mirror on my Canon 5D Mark III. Anyone know of any nice 35mm lenses that work well on this body? Full manual is fine as I'm mostly shooting video over stills.

Cheers,

Ed

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Canon 35mm is soft but has creamy bokeh

Sigma 35mm is super sharp but has very busy bokeh

Zeiss 35mm is the ideal all around, almost as sharp as the Sigma with better bokeh than the Canon.

That's all there is to it.

neuroanatomist said:

Robert Welch said:

For me, overall, I prefer the 24-105L for portrait work, but for more general purpose work, the 24-70L II is probably the better lens, over all.

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Not sure whether to be frustrated or grateful after reading this. I'm getting the 24-70 II, and had planned to sell my 24-105 this week. But you've got a great point - the flexibility to go from wide to a headshot is very useful. I'd not use it outdoors (where I prefer fast primes to blur the background), but rather indoors with a backdrop and monolight+Speedlites in softboxes. In that situation, I'm stopped down a bit because I've got plenty of light and no need for background blur, and as you say, perfect sharpness isn't usually necessary or even desirable.

If nothing else, I suppose I should hang onto the 24-105 for a while.

(By the way, I'm grateful - thanks!)

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I'm suprised you take that long to pull trigger on the sharpest zoom. I don't see the point keeping 24-105, unless you want to collect dust with it ;D

I check out a new camera or lens with focal almost immediately. Its a good tool if used correctly to help determine if there is a issue.
I didn't have a issue with my 5D MK III from the first batch, but Canon was churning them out, so a inexperienced assembler or tester could have let a bunch thru that were not up to snuff.

Its a software fix, Canon puts the camera on a test fixture tethered to a pc runs the calibration tests, and writes updated parameters into the camera firmware.