And it's playing in LA next week. Awesome! Hopefully it lives up to it's hype. Either way, it's an incredible piece of guerrilla film making.

It's a very good tripod design, and Gitzo is an outstanding company.

But really it depends upon the physical condition of the unit you are considering. As has been mentioned, it's a stiff price, but carbon fiber won't degrade in theory. However, if it is cracked (even on a microscopic scale), then it's rendered utterly useless.

A very close physical examination would be paramount.

They're comparing to base model DSLR's.

Products that are sold out seem to be automatically removed after a few days. When its in stock, it will be back. They often sell out quickly, depending on how many are in inventory.

I have ML on my T2i and have never really had any problems with it and it has been like 18 months. Once I had a mirror lock up issue but that was more my fault than the ML.
But I just got a 6D a few weeks ago and haven't decide if I want to put it on yet. If I did video I would put it on but I rarely do, so I don't know If i am.

New firmware posted for download. Interesting new moveable focus box only works in manual focus. Still great new feature.http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/professional/products/professional_cameras/cinema_eos_cameras/eos_c100#DriversAndSoftware

chavtastic, baby!

would go down very well in Essex

Just sharing some pictures from Xian, China. They would look better if there was some blue sky but that is a rare event here. These are straight from the camera no adjustments...the leaves were really that bright yellow

Old Shooter said:

- if some of the lenses are hitting the top end of that sensor - would using a Nikon/Sony 36MP test vehicle let us really see where the lens hits its peak? Until Canon brings out their own high MP body, of course...

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Putting a finer resolution sensor behind any given lens will get you a little more total image resolution but gets to be dimishing returns pretty quickly.

Like Pi sez, there are other factors too, mostly what contrast ratio is the bottom end of acceptable for these MTF tests. You can resolve more if you accept lower contrast.

On Photozone, you can get a bit of a sense of this if you compare the same lens tested on an 8MP 350D vs the 15MP 50D. If it doesn't max out on the 350d, how high up does it get on the 50d? It'll likely resolve more LP/PH on the 50d vs 350d but the lense may not be able to max out either of those bodies.
On some lenses the result may be very close or at max on the 350d but will it also be max on the 50d? If so, heck of a good lens, if not then we're on that diminishing returns part of the curve where the 15MP body may be capable of more.

AA filter strengths and other processing factors also come into play..


So the only thing these kinds of tests, from DxOmark or photozone etc, are good for, is comparing different lenses on the same body if they're evaluated with the same method. Which, for a given site, is usually consistent enough to be useful for this purpose.
It's a bit of extrapolation to try compare the same lense on different bodies as AA filters and internal camera processing are relatively unknown variables to us.

many grains of salt...

even more

Ouch...what a bad time of the day.

Hmmm...if you can take some time and are handy with photoshop, I imagine it wouldn't be too hard to clone the girls hand/leg area with the one from #9.

I actually like #13 (I'm guessing you're referring to the last photos with X / 13 in the lower right) best. Everyone smiling and looking at the camera, the colors are good, not too much squinting and it's not too dark and the sun is giving good light on the trees.

Except some of those features that really useful with an OVF can't exist when there is a typical SLR mirror, and obviously not everyone likes the "workaround" of a semi-transparent mirror.
e.g. if you want a LiveView exposure, or zoomed in view for focus, you obviously need it to be hitting some kind of imaging sensor

I doubt this will ever happen due to cost/demand, but having a combined EVF/OVF that you can switch on and off would be great though. Choose-your-own ...

Lenses I sold:

70-300mm f/4-5.6 non-L - I bought it cheap @ 369, ended up about an even trade for the optically superior EF-S 55-250 STM. As of now I use the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II USM for FF and the 55-250 STM for my crop. I would replace the EF-S 55-250 with a high quality compact/light FF lens in a second, but Canon does not currently make one.

17-55 f/2.8 IS USM - When I bought a full frame camera, I sold this lens for two reasons despite also having a crop camera.
First, most of the range can be serviced by the FF 24-70 as I rarely used 17-24mm on crop - most shots I took with it on crop were between 28mm and 55mm (normal to tele).
Second, though I got some great shots with it, I was never totally satisfied. I can't really put my finger on it, but the a lot of the pics seem to have an almost dated look to them when compared to some of the newer primes and zooms. Maybe a bit soft, or the color a bit muted? Either way, though this is the best lens for crop currently I was never really 100% satisifed with it optically; maybe we will see a update of it soon.

EF 135mm f/2.8 Softfocus - I was interested in this lens for the softfocus effect... I really like to use optical effects over digital when possible. But, despite much experimentation I was not happy with the softfocus effect it delivered. I couldn't shoot wide open without extreme/unusable softfocus even at the dial at 1/4 of max, plus even when stopped down I got better results out of software with less hassle. The ancient AF system did not help, though it is a bargain pricewise.

Lenses I was tempted to sell but did not

EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 - When I got a FF I was tempted to swap this out for the 16-35mm f/2.8, but after looking at samples I am not convinced the 16-35 is better - may actually be worse. The 10-22 seems to have MUCH less barrel distortion, so much less that I'd say it makes up for the lack of f/2.8. I would love to see a 16-35 f/2.8 with more controlled distortion but there is a good chance this is simply an advantage of crop for this type of lens. I think I am going to keep this one for a while, one of the best shots I ever took was done with this lens.

EF 40mm - I actually sold this once, rebought it because I kinda missed it a bit. It is not very useful on crop but is a fun lens on FF. I might sell again if the 50mm IS f/1.8 comes out soon and is compact, who knows

P_R said:

With film and manual focus plus manual aperture, there was little in the cameras. Manual film transport too meant all you needed was a tiny battery to power the exposure system, at least that is how I used my dads Tlb canon. And it still works.
Move to a T90 and you get multiple motors for film transport, more buttons and less dials. But to do this you have more electronics which go somewhere. Size goes up.
Move to a digital canon and you have to add in all those things peculiar to digital but absent with film. Rear screen, memory card(s), bigger battery, flash, dials to zoom in or change focus points and so on. You then have to have the buttons spaced such that they are usable.
Following a logical set of steps you can see how dslr bodies range from the 1 series to the rebels. My only criticism of the 1series is the weight! But even that can help with balance or unsteady hands. My 350d seemed to produce many more crooked horizons which are absent (mostly) on the 1dx.

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The now decades-old Canon film 1-series SLRs that used the EF mount were roughly the same size as modern 1-series EOS DSLRs. The size of the 1-series has nothing to do with electronics. It is an ergonomics factor...always has been. The large 1-series have always had the integrated grip...its one of its selling points. The large size offers much better hand-holdability in both landscape and portrait orientations.

That is, has always been, and probably will always be one of the primary arguments for using an SLR-style camera...ergonomics. Even if you have smallish hands, mirrorless cameras are exceptionally small. They really don't fit the hands all that well, and while they certainly save on weight, for all but those with tiny hands, they end up having other ergonomically related problems, like cramping your hands into your face in an uncomfortable way.

From a weight standpoint, one of the most significant weight factors in a modern DSLR is the battery. Larger batteries with much greater capacity are usually the most dense aspect of the camera. A large battery can get you a lot more shooting time before having to swap out batteries, and/or supply the necessary power to move the mirror and actuate the shutter and write huge amounts of data to a memory card at extremely high frame rates. It's a trade off you can choose to make, however...1D X with grip and extra large battery, or 5D III with no grip and a relatively small/light battery. Perhaps at some point in the future dense, heavy batteries might be traded out for some kind of light weight fuel cell that can operate for days under the same kind of load conditions.

Meh, this camera isn't what it's cracked up to be. A lot of photographers seem to be jealous over the video guys when it comes to Canon gear, but all that Canon is doing is giving them subpar products with little gimmicks to go with it. Sure, the 1DC technically has 4K, but the color space is 4:2:0 which means the chrominance resolution is a quarter of the total resolution. The 8 bit Motion JPEG is also something to expect in a consumer camera, not in a 14,000 dollar camera. It doesn't even have focus peaking, XLR or SDI outputs.

Don't get me wrong, the Canon sensors are great and the dual-sensor technology is cool. But Canon keeps missing the mark by giving the video guys poor and soft 8-bit compressed codecs and sensors that do not down downsample properly(except in the 5D Mark III, 1DX and 1DC.) All we want is to have cameras that downsample the sensor properly like the GH2, GH3, Nikon Cameras(except D800) and have some decent codecs or RAW. RAW video is not hard to create, the 50D which never came with a video feature is now shooting RAW which proves that it does not hurt the photography features or adds much if any extra cost. For icing on the cake it would be nice to have an add on for simple preamp with XLR audio and SDI output that would go in the form of a battery pac, this way it would keep the photographers happy. Rumors have it that the GH4 will have something similar, along with a 10 bit 4K codec for under 5K dollars.

Hi Guys,

So I am tagging along with the wife to a work trip to LV (from the UK) this weekend and it seems I will have at least two days of "dead time" without her during the day.

Is it worth taking the camera and are there shots worth grabbing during the day, excluding major places like the canyon as she will also want to see that?

Kit wise any suggestions, keep it light for travel? I have a 5d3, 24-70 2.8 II, 50 1.4, 70-200 2.8 I and a 600 speedlight

Many thanks in advance.

Has anyone experienced or heard about an issue with the EF 70-200L IS f/4.0 where when you focus (AF), there's a sudden "shift" in the viewfinder (or LV) combined with a small "bang" from the lens? I'm leaning towards the stabilizer motor causing the issue, but if I switch off the IS it may still happen. Any ideas before I send it in for service?

Theres a new flight-pic in the blog. You´ll find it under: http://flugblog.lannert.net/die-doppelte-kirche/

Is this a simple thing that a local camera shop can easily repair?

How much would it cost to send to Canon?

Eldar said:

I have had a number of Nigirian buyers on stuff that I have sold over the Norwegian ebay alternative. The same buyer comes back on watches, cameras, bikes you name it. They always want the transactions done with paypal. They are obviously not interested in buying (as in paying) anything, so they must have found loopholes.

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They typically hijack paypal accounts, and a lot of ebay users have the same password on both, so they use a stolen account, and have it shipped to a drop site, where it is forwarded to the thief. When the account owner notices his money missing, they just move to another stolen account. If the seller followed the complex rules and ships to the confirmed address with signature confirmation, etc, he will eventually get his money back.

Usually, the drop shipper is someone who was duped and is paying for the forwarding and believes he will get repaid plus a bonus. He'll get nothing but a visit from the Police, and lose a lot of money..

paul13walnut5 said:

I've always had a sodtspot for pentax, love their choice of pancakes. The k-01 is a great looking design too, canon could use some of their design verve.

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I thought it was the oddest looking thing when I first saw it.
But once I got it in my hand I found it surprisingly comfortable to use, simple basic controls and soft-controls for many other functions were easy enough to access. Still haven't had to look at the manual for this one. The rubber flap on the right side is a bit lame tho. Fits OK on mine but far too flddly.
A nice, sealed, latching door would have been far more appropriate for a "designer" object.

I often use two bodies. One 1DX and one 5DIII. If I only had one, it would mean more lens swapping, but I could live with that. I also have a 7D, but I never use it. Only advantage is the crop factor for reach. My wife likes it, because it makes a very light and compact package with good reach with the 70-300, and she also likes to use the 18-200 on travel (while I carry half a ton in a backpack ...)

In general, you will always go for the higher quality body. Every time you push the shutter release on the 7D, you'll think; That shot would have been better with the 5DIII. So if you use two bodies, they should either be same same or one should provide functionality the other does not have, like fps, high-ISO performance etc.

I have been shooting with Canon bodies since the mid seventies and, beyond a frozen curtain several decades ago, none of my bodies have failed me.

And, as Neuro pointed out, there are 4 great whites to choose from on the wrong side of $10k

Well I shoot APS-C and I don't use video... For what I do, Canon hasn't done anything interesting since the 7D. I don't even need Canon to innovate at this point, just follow some of what their competitors are doing and I would be happy.

Trol2,

personally.,I think you would be better off getting one of the spider Guys light calibrators instead of a meter, once I start to do more static work its on my list, I've seen the demos done and,they correct everything amazingly

Of course, as a regular reader of the various rumors on this forum, you've seen the speculation about
the 35 f1.4L being replaced in the "near" future - possibly part of this "blizzard of new lenses" expected
next year. Unless you've got a burning requirement you may want to wait to see just how astronomical
the also expected price increase is - but then the current model has been very highly rates for 12-13 years
and may also see a price drop as dealers clear their shelves. Another alternative is the relatively new
and especially "cheap" Rokinon/Bowers/etc. etc. which if you can forego autofocus mode will give you a
good feel for whether or not a 35mm prime is really what you want - and you can sell it later without too
great a loss.