New Firmware for the EOS-1D C

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<p>A new firmware update is available for the EOS-1D C. Firmware Version 1.3.x adds new functionality incorporating the following features and modifications:</p>
<p><b>Lens aberration correction with EF Cinema Lenses:</b> Communication between Canon EF Cinema lenses and Canon cameras has had a few effects on the operation of the EOS-1D C. The following features are now available as menu options:</p>
<ul>
<li>Peripheral Illumination Correction: This feature maintains even brightness from corner to corner of an image. This will virtually eliminate vignetting and any other unevenness of light across the image.</li>
<li>Chromatic Aberration Correction: This feature reduces color fringing in areas of an image with high contrast color. It reduces color bleeding, which is easily noticeable at edges and degrades perceived image quality.</li>
<li>In addition, communication between the lens and camera body will allow the F-stop to now be seen on the viewfinder. Focus position and F-stop will also now be recorded by the camera.</li>
<li>Flicker caused by manual aperture adjustment has been reduced with this update, this could cause slight underexposure which may result in exposure compensation in some cases.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Sound recording with Line input:</b></p>
<ul>
<li>After requests from users in the field, audio recording through a mini plug (3.5mm) connected to the external microphone terminal is now supported. This will allow for the recording of audio sources other than microphones, such as mobile devices or audio players. The standard input level is -8 dBV and can reach an input signal of up to +6 dBV. Sound recording levels are adjustable at 64 sound-recording levels.</li>
</ul>
<p>Service support start date is anticipated mid-October 2013. For information regarding the EOS-1D C firmware update (which must be performed by a Canon Factory Service center) please contact Canon Cinema EOS Support at <b>1-855-CINE-EOS</b> (246-3367).</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

New Rogue Safari flash-booster. Please e-mail Rogue to make a larger version.

RGF said:
mackguyver said:
Anything that won't burn holes in my gear (like the Better Beamer) would be nice :)

If the device will focus the light from the flash to the subject it will also focus the light from the sun to your flash

Sorry, unless you have a 1 way mirror, you risk focusing the sun.

Of course you could always make sure that you are focussed in the direction of the sun.
Yep, I'm sure this will be a problem with any tool that magnifies light (damn you physics!), but I'd rather fry my crappy old 430EX than my 300 2.8 II or 5DIII!
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5D3 Shooting in a bar at night: What ISO, Fstop would you guess?

AJ said:
helpful said:
Nailed both aperture and ISO on my first guess... f/4 and 12,800.

Of course, there's just my word for that fact, but I felt pretty good so I posted this worthless post anyway. Fun challenge!
Those settings sound about right to me.

To the OP: be careful with the 50/1.2 Narrow DOF can be nice for video with actors who move carefully with pre-planned motion. But in the chaos of a pub crawl, you can end up with nothing but blur, giving your viewers a headache. I'd be on the safe side - stop down.

I will. But I figure at least I'll have it there if I want to use it.

Most of what I found that was really nice and bright was using f/2.8....so, guessing 2.8 and below will help me out of the most dark of the places we'll be hitting.

Tonight, Ihave to go through that footage and see what it looks like.

I shot some of it with Marvels Cine style, some with Canon Neutral, and some with Canon Standard.

I'm still not an expert with color correction, although I'm getting better....I'm needing to decide if I want to risk it with shooting it all in a very "flat" style and correcting it all in post, or taking what I can get out of the camera.

i'm leaning towards flat style...since if I mess up in the confusion, forget to set a good custom WB...I'll have slightly more leeway in POST to correct any problems that I'm sure I'll run into with all that will be going on.

Not to mention, it now looks like a very high chance of rain storms in the area, so that's one more thing I"ll have to worry about. I guess I'll wrap my camera bag in a large trash bag to protect from rain while walking between venues, and carry an umbrella in addition to my sling bag (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007234626/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and monopod.

Ugh...

This is going to prove to be very interesting....

cayenne
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Faster (f/2.8) Lenses on 5DII or Slower (f/4) lenses on 5DIII?

Rienzphotoz said:
Hi chas113, I believe you've already made up your mind to go with the body upgrade ... 5D MK III is a fantastic camera I'm sure you will see a far much snappier performance in the way your f/4 lenses work on 5D MK III over the 5D MK II.
5D MK III is my first full frame DSLR as I upgraded it from 7D ... but I took a different approach i.e. upgraded my f/4 lenses to f/2.8 lenses before upgrading to 5D MK III ... no "scientific" approach, other than wanting to invest in f/2.8 zooms (16-35, 24-70 & 70-200) before I made the body upgrade, it took several years but I eventually did it.
Good luck with your upgrade ... may it serve you well.

Good to know, thanks. It's nice to have confirmation from multiple sources. My approach to kit building was "slow zooms/fast primes that are lightweight and sharp enough"...but with the 24-70 II coming down in size and weight....it's very tempting. For me, my 17-40 and 24-105 serve me well enough, but there are times when the AF of the 5DII just is so frustrating. Hence my original post. I don't shoot a lot of thin DOF and everyone here has pretty much confirmed upgrading body would be more worthwhile. If the 16-50 f/4 IS comes to pass — (and is great!) — I could see it replacing both zooms. That and my 70-300L and I'd be set. :P
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What's to be expected from Canon in Q4 2013?

duydaniel said:
what make you think the 7D2 will kick ass?

If Canon wants to introduce new tech, they'll do it in their premium (crop) camera and set an according price tag - also some Canon top exec recently stated that they want the 7d2 to be make a big splash.

Concerning the thread: Obviously people have lost faith that the long-time vaporware products like 50/1.4 + 50/1.2 mk2, 35/1.4 mk2 could actually appear :-o ...

... but my money for a 2013 release is on a new 430ex2 successor with rt.
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Why CSI agents used only Nikon Cameras ?

Hi Neuro, I had a chuckle. ::)

My question is can the "extra DR" of a Nikon really enable images taken in the maner with which they use their cameras really enable such image enhancement?
Half the time the camera body is still moving when they hit the button!
Also has anyone else noticed the way Horatio leaves most of the shots by falling out of the frame?

Where my workshop for my classic cars is three of us were burgled, our CSI arrived with a camera, a bloody great tripod, I mean built like the surveyors put their theodolites on! and a flash on a cord he also took time to frame things accurately, my finger is in many of the pics he took holding the L shape measure on the door for scale and also holding a pencil to point to tool damage on the locks in situe, they then asked for the locks which were damaged beyond use so we let them take them.
No fingerprints were retrievable due to the surface they were on and though they had a suspect no arrest was made.
I wish we could have got some of the staff from tv, they could have got the prints, and the DNA in the prints and found the *#%€$¥*# with the loot before he disposed of it! ;D

Thankfully it was not my home as I think the feeling of intrusion would have been terrible having seen what it did to an old work colleague when his home was done.

Cheers Graham.



jthomson said:
neuroanatomist said:
jthomson said:
Isn't it obvious?

The higher dynamic range of the Nikon camera's is what enables them to pull so much detail when they enhance their pictures. ::) :P

tumblr_inline_mqlf5dVGDE1qz4rgp.gif

Well I thought it was funny.
The magic they can do with photographs is only surpassed by the speed with which they can do DNA tests.
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2nd Camera Dilemma

While an X100s would be a valuable addition to any photographers camera bag, you've currently got a brilliant second body in your 7D. But you'd miss shots with the X100s that you'd pick up with the 7D. You're talking about a downgrade.

As a suggestion, maybe you need to take a look at the way you carry your cameras. Two bodies with standard neck straps are seriously clumsy and downright painful for a full days shoot. A move to Spider-Pro holster system and more recently the CarrySpeed sling strap system have for me completely transformed the experience of working with multiple bodies. I use both systems together for some jobs. On Saturday I had a long all-day shoot where I was on my feet all day. I had the 5D3 with 16-35f/2.8II and 1D4 with 70-200 f/2.8isII on a CarrySpeed Double Pro and a third, much lighter body, a tiny SL-1/100D with 24 f/1.4II clipped onto the SpiderPro belt. Each camera was instantly ready for action and I my body didn't hurt at the end of the long day. With just neck straps, a shoot with last Saturday's flexibility and comfort just wouldn't have happened, and I was able to deliver a much stronger result for my client.

FWIW, the pin on the CarrySpeed F1 plate is 100% compatible and interchangable with the SpiderPro holster.

-pw
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70-200 Halo issue?

My advice-

Take your camera to the camera store and have them bring every 70-200 2.8 II out and try them in the store until you get happy. Don't leave until you get one.

Another lesson learned, if it ain't broke (as we say in TX), don't fix it. That old lens is looking better.

Anyway, picking an argument with Canon ( I had one originally with my copy about a year and a half ago) will be fruitless. To save you all the middle steps, here is what will happen. You will send it in at your expense a few times (shipping plus insurance), and have to be without the lens. Finally, after many letters and calls to low to mid level service reps, they will send you a refurb in exchange for your new lens. Save the ulcer. Some battles you just won't win.

Good luck with the lens

Aren't you the Lambo/Maserati poster?

Viggo said:
candyman said:
I bought mine last year in october. I do not see this halo effect.
I would say that this person got a defective lens. Recommendation is to bring it back and exchange it.

..only that he has done that 3(!) times already...
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Sony RX100 II @ 3200ISO, straight out from camera, zero PP

Dylan777 said:
Dylan777 said:
I took this picture with Sony RX100II, in low light. This is 3200ISO, JPEG straight out from camera, zero PP.

RX1 & RX 100 II always amazed me...body size and IQ.

Just incase anyone interested to see the remaining photos:

http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/OrMEuOZU/1/6234908

1st picture was taken this morning, around 5:30AM California time, indoor,with little light at 3200ISO. The remaining photos were taken this afternoon with decent lighting, next to patio door. All jpeg files. Copied straight from camera - zero PP.

The RX100 II is a great small camera for this type of work. It fits in jean and shirt pocket well. It delivers great IQ, even in JPEG. I carry this camera to work everyday.

Ohhh...almost forgot, please excuse my crappy composition:P

It is certainly great as to the advances made in digital cameras since my first Fujifilm MX700 in 1998. I recently bought a vintage 6MP Kodak DCS 460C from 1995 ($35,500 originally), and it could do about ISO 80 max. Now, many shoot at ISO 3200 and higher with impunity. I also remember the Polaroid ASA 2000 B&W film that would let you shoot by candlelight, but never quite lived up to that for me. (I think you had to increase the developing time to make it work.)

Have fun with it!!
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Finally getting some Eneloops, but will my old charger work?

I have two of the Maha MH-C801D chargers, and I have found them to be rock-solid. Rapid charge, soft charge, and conditioning modes, individual charge per cell (x8) seems to have extended the life of my batts and with 4 speedlites each with external battery packs, it does make a difference to the wallet when you can get some longevity out of your AA's. Just like everything else you get what you pay for - I get that budgets are important, but I think I can safely say going with a cheaper charger with premium batteries is probably false economy. The Powerex site lists the MH-C801D as 90 bucks but B&H has them for $65.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=MH-C801D&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

For the cells I use all Powerex, a mix of Imedions in the flashes ready to go

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/883811-REG/Powerex_MHRAAI4_IMEDION_Ready_When.html

and Powerex for the external packs and to replace the ones in the strobes.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/883816-REG/Powerex_MHRAA4_Rechargeable_AA_NiMH.html

(Amazon is good for Powerex too).

Having said that I wouldn't hesitate to use the Eneloops as well as many of my colleagues swear by them. But I can honestly say the Powerex stuff has been bulletproof.

Oh, and pick up a proper battery tester while you're at it - the cheap ones don't properly "load" the cell to give you an accurate reading of the charge remaining. But a proper one can save you a lot of hours trying to find a dead cell. I love this one:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/321271-REG/ZTS_MINI_MBT_Mini_MBT_Multi_Battery_Tester.html
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Faulty Shutter Button + Fix

Users have been cleaning dirty shutter switch contacts and posting utube video's for years. If you have the tools and are fairly handy with them, its just a matter of taking your time and doing it right.

I find working on lenses to be tougher, depending on what I'm doing. I have several bags of parts from never to be reassembled again lenses. Its particularly nasty to get those aperture blades put back in place. I still do it, but I've lost feeling in my fingers, so it becomes extremely frustrating and difficult, it has to be done from some sort of memory for the correct motions with my fingers since there is almost no feeling.
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70-200 f2.8 IS (Ver 1) used or 70-300 F4-5.6 IS L New

seasamshoot said:
Thanks for all the advice.

How valuable is the IS on the Mark I? And is the F4 IS good for indoor portraits on a crop camera? Logic would suggest that it would basically be giving me a f5.6 depth of field wide open on the 70D. is that correct?

Thanks again.

if i remember correctly, 70-200mm f/2.8 IS version 1 has 3 stop of IS whereas 70-200mm f/4 IS has 4 stop. about the sharpness, to me 70-200mm f/4 IS is more better than 70-200mm f/2.8 IS version 1 even at f/4. i am not trying to say that version 1 is not good, i did own this version before upgrading to version II, and version I served me pretty well on my candid shots.

as many people suggestion on 85mm f/1.8 for in door portrait, i am on the same page with them. but i do not have 85mm f/1.8; i am using 50mm f/1.4 instead for everyday purposes (it is 80mm on crop.) ideal focal length of portrait photograhy is twice of your sensor size if i am right (i think i got this information from computer science 178 course offered by uc stanford). all i have to do is just zoom by feet. number of people say that this lens is tack sharp at 2.8, but i see it at f/3.2 even at low light with high iso upto 1000 on my 30d, 3200 on my 7d and slightly greater than 6400 on my 5d3. however, i am not hesitate to use wider f/stop or even widest if i have to... below are images that i have recently shot with this lens at f/2 with my 30d (note: the very first image were shot with PL linear filter to get rid some of reflection that i did not want with breaking rule of using PL filter.)

for some reasons, available light in-door portrait without IS on 70-200mm f/2.8 does not convince me much on golden rule of shutter speed (yes, i violate shutter speed sometimes, but not all the time :P), especially you have not eaten breakfast, lunch or dinner before shooting ;D

note: there is a pro protographer who is currently using 70-200mm f/4 IS and he is happy with it. his name is Tony Corbel. i am not a pro. photographer, i am just a learner and hobbyist giving out my own thoughts...

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How to carry 5DMKIII with 70-200/2.8ISMKII

I was actually just shooting last night in a smallish music performance venue with a gripped 5d3 & (rented) 70-200 IS v2. I'll tell ya, if I buy one of these, I won't need to hit the gym any more. Just shoot for an hour or two with that every day and I'll be good!

More on topic, I have the RRS L-bracket and was using the B2-FABN clamp with my 5d3 camera strap on that instead of using my BR RS-5 (cargo) strap. Actually worked really well, and as much as I love the RS-5, it's a bit bulky on my shoulder and the strap occasionally limits my movement if I always have the camera in my hands and up and ready. The clamp was onto the L-bracket, and I didn't feel any problem with the 70-200 on it.

That said, I'd have preferred to mount an Acra-swiss plate to the lens tripod mount and use the BR strap with the clamp on the tripod mount as I bet it'd have been better balanced. Although with a gripped 5d3, the balance definitely feels closer to the body/lens mount area, instead of further forward like with an ungripped 5d3.

EDIT:
@Ben Taylor, that's the clamp I was originally going to go for, but then I saw the B2-FABN which has 3 spots to connect straps to. Pretty awesome and handy, even though it is physically a bit larger than the B2-FAB-F.
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Indy Car Test Day

For those of you in the Southern California area, the Izod Indy Car Series will be having a test day in Fontana on Tuesday, September 24. The event is free to the public and if you are going to the race in October they are holding a Q&A session with the drivers, too. That should be good for some nice candid portraits.

http://www.autoclubspeedway.com/Tickets-Events/Events/INDYCAR-Weekend/INDYCAR-Test.aspx

street photography...feedback please!

I have only been street shooting (and other I guess) since 2011. My main aim when I go out to shoot is to have NO AIM other than to have my camera set for the conditions prevailing.

Opportunity meeting preparation gets the shot.

I don't see in B&W nor in colour. I just see, observe, look for an expression, a nuance, an ironic juxta, context, several different lives happening at once in a confined area. I shoot then process to get the best (of my limited abilities) out of what I have.

if you ever suffer a lack of confidence in your abilities, look at Bruce Gilden's street stuff. Same old schtick......but he is a Magnum 'tog....and all he does is stick a Leica and flash gun under the noses of his ambush victims. (But to be fair.....look at his Yakusa and other photo documentary stuff and you see how brilliant he is as a camersmith)

I have seen stuff produced here by keen amatuers that I would say is way more interesting and skilfully carried out than some really well known street shooters.

I see, I shoot, I move on....I am not precious about it, I don't go in for pseudo mumbo jumbo. To be honest, having Parkinsons tremor, it is all I can do to hold a bloody camera still enough and for long enough to get the shot.

I see wonderful stuff in these forums, wonderful and wonder why they are not exhibited elsewhere.
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Looking for opinions on a new lens. Zoom vs Prime.

May I ask what kind of photography you are interested in pursuing? Are you interested in doing more and more weddings in order to earn income, or is the income from this work just an added bonus which will allow you to buy more gear in order to pursue other photographic interests?

I ask, because when you are first starting out and interested in generating income, the best thing to do will be to rent the lenses you need, rather than buy them. This will keep you in the black. It takes a $2000 lens some time to pay for itself when you're just starting out. It's good to own some nice lenses that you like and are comfortable with, for sure, but it's not something you have to do all at once. You can do it gradually. There's no reason to put financial pressure on yourself at this stage in the game if you're not sure about what you want yet. Buy the lenses you love and will use a lot (even outside of doing wedding jobs) and rent the others. Renting will give you the opportunity to use anything you want.

The 17-40 is great, I'd keep that one, but if you only own body, and are shooting weddings solo, you need that mid-range zoom (24-105). As I'm sure you've experienced, things move very quickly and weddings and you may find yourself in situations where you need more reach than the 17-40mm offers, yet you don't have enough time to switch lenses.

There is no doubt that you need a longer telephoto however, I will not advise you to sell the 24-105mm at this time in order to buy it...not unless you get a 2nd body so that you can have something wide at the ready (without changing lenses).

You could shoot an entire wedding with a 24-105mm on a single body, and still get pretty good results if you *had* to...and it wouldn't be that bad. That's the value of a mid-range zoom like the 24-105mm.

You could maybe do it with a 17-40 only, but portraits would not be a pretty sight. And you'd miss a lot with a 70-200mm only. On paper, it sounds good to have a 17-40, a 50, and 70-200mm -- that really covers every length...but it doesn't cover them in an ideal way with just one body--it will actually be an incredibly non-ideal setup and a pain in the butt to use. You'll be switching lenses way, way, way too much, and missing shots, slowing down the pace of the wedding, and it will be hard for you to get into a good rhythm of shooting.

The appeal of the 35/1.4 is understandable, and I won't try to dissuade you on that. Just keep in mind that your lens bag is getting pretty large, and if you're just on one body...it's going to be tricky to make use of all the lenses you bring with you. The only way to know for sure, however, is to try it out -- you might love the lens, or you might hate it. Try it before you buy it.

Keep the 24-105mm, it's a solid performer. It's great for outdoor weddings. Try a 35mm f/1.4...if you like it, consider buying it. The 35/1.4 will be great during receptions, certain kinds of detail shots, etc.

You still need something to cover your tele needs. If it turns out you aren't crazy about the 35 after trying it, then buy whatever 70-200mm is in your budget and you're done. Don't worry about mkI vs mkII vs IS, etc., just get what you can afford. IS is not that important for wedding work--fast shutter speeds are, and every version of the 70-200mm f/2.8 L lens that Canon has produced has been more than *great.* I use the old 80-200mm f/2.8 L "magic drainpipe" professionally, at weddings, constantly, it's my favorite lens of all time...and I've had it since I got my EOS-1 film camera in the early 90s.

However, if you love the 35mm, and use some of your budget on it, then consider the 200mm f/2.8 L prime along with it instead of the tele zoom.

You could probably get both the 35mm & 200mm for close to $1500 if you buy used (not much more new - sell that 85mm and you're good).

You won't have zoom with the 200mm prime, but it's fast, super duper sharp, inexpensive, and most of the time, with 70-200mm lenses, you're either on 70, 135, or 200. The 24-105 covers the wider end of that range already. Just break out the 200mm when you know you are going to go around and take tele shots.

Then you've got your bases pretty well covered -- two fast primes for low-light indoors (35 & 50), a good wide (17-40), good moderate-tele zoom (24-105) that will work great outdoors, (and indoors with flash), and then a brilliant, fast telephoto. That's more lenses than any single photographer really needs for a solo shooting job. You'll be hard pressed to have the time to use them all if you only have one body.

It's a misconception to think that you need to cover every conceivable focal length--it really isn't true, you'll be plenty close enough for a while if you go this route. Not having every possible focal length also forces you to try different things w/regards to composition.

To reiterate (1): You've gotta have a mid-range zoom if you're going to do weddings solo -- if you sell the 24-105, I'd only replace it with something like the 24-70mm -- but you don't necessarily have to get the mkII, you could get a used mkI, or even one of the older 28-70mm f/2.8 Ls.

Notes (2): If you're going to keep doing weddings (I'm just assuming solo,) you need a 2nd body more than you need to buy another lens. Beyond a 2nd body, you need a telephoto more than a 35.

Bottom line, rent things before you buy them -- rent some things you haven't mentioned too -- you might fall in love with one of them -- then buy what you can see yourself using long term -- and you don't have to buy the latest and greatest just to be in the game, Canon has made lots of good L lenses over the years, they are mostly all good, some of them are quite cheap now, and great wedding photography is about skill more than which version of which L lens was used. Find out what you like and works best for you.

Attached a couple of 80-200mm f/2.8 L "Magic Drainpipe" shots here, these are just a couple from the last year that I like, both 80-200mm shots were taken on the 7D.

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