KyleSTL said:

I'm sure I'm not the only one with this opinion, but don't you think the 70-300mm IS is embarrassingly outdated, especially considering its Nikon equivalent?:

	Canon 70-300mm IS USM	Nikon AF-S 70-300mm VR
Focusing Design	Front focus, extending, rotating, no FTM	Internal focus, FTM
Focusing Motor	Micro USM, noisy, slow	Ring-type SWM, silent, fairly fast
Stabilization	3 stops	4 stops
Year	2005	2006
MSRP	$650 US	$590 US
Street Price	$360 US eBay / $650 US B&H	$420 US eBay / $587 B&H

One could say that Canon did upgrade it by releasing the 70-300mm L, but that is in a whole different price bracket, and shouldn't be compared. It would be like comparing the Canon vs. Nikon 28-300mm lenses; they are clearly in different classes. How has Canon not updated this lens in the past 7 years?

I must say, I miss the fast, quiet and accurate focusing my old 100-300mm USM and 70-210mm USM lenses had; and they were small and light, too. If either of those lenses had IS I would not have considered 'upgrading' to the 70-300mm. I wish Canon would up date this lens to be on par with Nikon and stay in the same price bracket.

I also find it funny that Canon announced this lens alongside the crowd-pleaser 24-105mm L.

By the way, I have used both, as I own the Canon and my dad owned the Nikon (on a D600). The Nikon wins hands-down in overall feel, responsiveness, build quality, etc.

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Save your money and buy a 70-300LIS, it's a fantastic lens and it'll be the last 70-300 you'll buy. It's far better than the 70-200 f4 LIS the 70-300 IS and the Nikon variant. Save patiently and get the best.

dexstrose said:

You check on ebay deals? I see that they have several android tablets for an inexpensive price.

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No, I didn't check that because given the gazillions of different phone/tablet versions and configurations I didn't know what to look for (yet) - but this thread is really helping, so keep it coming ... I won't go for an iWhatever though because I want an Android I can root and an os (Linux) I understand

But from what I've read there are differences with running EOS remote, i.e. older or slower phones stutter or are less smooth when displaying the remote picture?

K. Surapon, I just happened to try these two in a shop where I was spending my hard earned money on some new items. Being of similar size, it obviously comes down to personal preference. As such, I'd give a go to the SL1.

The M is very well build and is nicely designed BUT, for me DSLR shooter, I just can't take photos using the screen. Call me old school but I need the viewfinder to isolate myself and the subject for the composition I like. If you're used to take pix with phones, that should be fine from the screen.

Though I've got rather big hands, I find the SL1 just nice to hold. Nice touch screen, light, inconspicuous, and no need for new lenses as they are already in my bag. I'm in no hurry, but when (and if) the next version comes out (hopefully with the new crop sensor) I'll sell my 60D for this one. Lighter in my pocket and more space for my heavier gear

I copied your greatly reduced unretouched jpeg image and applied the settings you listed in lightroom and uploaded it to my smug mug account. Since this is processing a jpeg image, I'd think it would be worse. If you want to post the original raw image to drop box, I can try it and see.
Obviously, applying the settings you listed to a reduced jpeg does not give the same image.

thanks for the responses the 6d it is

Old farmhouse on the moors of northern England.

J.R. said:

Canon 14-24 said:

noooo my precious 14-24!!!

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gollum gollum! ;D ;D

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Perhaps your forum handle should be J.R.R.?

My 5DIII was consistently underexposing - so it lives on +1/3 EC... Even then, I still have to give most images at least another +1/3 in post - I really should set it to +2/3... I use my 18% grey for white balance - never heard of the Canon 12% - thanks privatebydesign!

The EOS 100D should have been a mirrorless camera, in my opinion.

We visited Hoover Dam last summer and took pictures from the dam and bridge. We were there in late afternoon, just before the gorge fell into shadow. I took a number of shots with my 7D and EF-S 15-85mm lens at 15mm (24mm FF equivalent) from the bridge looking north toward the dam and could only get about 1/2 the gorge and dam in frame, so took a number of shots with the same manual settings so I could later create a panorama in Photoshop.

The walking area of the bridge is wide enough for maybe 3 people to walk side-by-side. The day we were there, the dam was very crowded, but only maybe 10 other people were on the bridge. Its extremely windy on the bridge, so if you wear a hat, make sure its well secured! The dam is an impressive sight, well worth the visit.

Others will have to comment on the best time of day for photography, since we just made the single visit.

3.5-Inch Organic LED Touch Panel Display
Canon has produced its own OLED Displays ?

Whenever I am starting out learning something new, I find my self looking for cooking recipes. Cooking, training for a certain race, fly fishing, photography, you name it ...

But the thing is, there is only so much you can get through a recipe. It can put you on a track, in the right direction, with a fair sense of purpose etc. But when you get there, you need to figure out for yourself what it takes to get That picture taken.

f1.2, f8, f22, tilt&shift, focus stacking, shutter speeds, lighting ... they all have their benefits and issues. And for your specific challenge, the only judge is yourself. Get out there, shoot, fail, change, shoot, fail, change, shoot ... and , provided you are persistent enough, you succeed. And the feeling when you nail it ... indescribable

Yes, The accidental L Series in the world war L
Enjoy.
Surapon

สงครามกล้อง

Pi said:

Marsu42 said:

Since somehow every sensor thread seems to degrade quickly into gibberish and brand fanboyism, I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that I still don't get how the real world impact of a camera's read noise is.

My current understanding: traditional non-Exmor sensor designs have higher read noise at low iso which also affects max. dynamic range (but this thread isn't about dr). Also read noise doesn't equal banding artifacts, see the lower 7d figures - but this model has higher banding due to the dual readout channels.

sensorgen.info says: @iso 100 / 200 / 400 / 800:
7d: 8.4 / 4.7 / 3.3 / 2.8
60d: 13.2 / 8.4 / 4.4 / 3.2
5d3: 33.1 / 18.2 / 10.6 / 6.1
6d: 26.8 / 14.6 / 7.9 / 5.1

Question: Except for long time astronomy exposures, when (if at all) does this mean that shooting at higher iso might/will give better iq than at the lowest iso setting? Thanks for explaining!

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No. You have lower read noise at higher ISO in absolute units, electrons, not in relative ones like SNR. If you shoot at ISO 200 with the 7D, for example, the saturation level halves, but the read noise almost does but not quite. As a result, you get a slightly higher read noise relative to the signal, and still more shot noise. If the numbers were 16/8/4/..., then the read noise would be the same relative to the signal. With Canon, there are "close" to that, on a log scale, at least, so the read noise stays more or less flat at lower ISOs. With Nikon, it goes up. This does not make the Nikon worse, of course, they just start at a much lower level.

BTW, banding is due not only to multiple readout channels (and I have seen really bad one with defective units) but also to random fluctuations with no apparent pattern (yes, I am talking about pattern noise )

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I remember being frightened by the noise of Nikon D70, and at that time I decided for Canon Rebel XT. Since then, Nikon has evolved more in low ISO, and Canon has evolved at high ISO. I consider that improvements in high ISO really allows me to do some photos today, would not be possible eight years ago. The evolution in low ISO also happened with Canon, though it is not the leader in this area. Frankly, all current cameras seem capable of making great images at ISO 100 or 200. Glad to be able to use ISO 3200 today, if I need to. However, I would like to have available also ISO 50, and even ISO 25 for long exposures.

Around $1000, you can think of getting a canon 70D, see here

serendipidy said:

privatebydesign said:

Steve Erwin really was a very unfortunate accident, stingrays are incredibly docile and rarely use their stinger, even when attacked by sharks. I have taken many nervous divers right up to them and stroked their noses, but you must never, ever, swim over them. I believe that is what happened to him in murky poor visibility water.

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Yes, that was my understanding too. An extremely rare and tragic freak accident. Ironic that after being around deadly snakes and crocs so many times , he was killed by such a docile fish. I watched his show without fail. He was so enthusiastic about nature and such a wonderful person.

"Crikey"!

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Totally agree...sad that he had young kids too.

AF an tracking would have worked better, no questions that's why your keeper rate got better - not saying that you don't have good technique, but I think is safe to assume the without the servo mode and AF itself, your rate might have been lower.
The shots I took at still subjects were fine - anything that was moving or I had to take the shot with short prep time...was not
I find the Zeiss 135 f/2 to be a wonderful lens, but not for street photography - so my fault, not the lens
Yes, I would still buy if I did not have a 80-200 2.8L which for me works better in street photography.
[/quote]

I totally agree with you Phil regarding moving targets, manual focus and my experience with the 85 1.2 II. The few times that I have tried to manual focus on a moving target have usually been a disaster -- manual focus on a static subject not too bad.....getting off a shot with short prep time -- also very very difficult with MF on the 85.

I guess my main reason for considering the Zeiss would be for shots that I have reasonable time to prep for rather than the impromptu shots that are usually required in street photography

Found attached picture on tastefully offensive. Thought I needed to share

I finally bit the bullet and just shelled out the big bucks for a gura gear 22+ and i have to say these are THE last word in camera bags. Personally I dont know how people manage with the bigger ones as mine is full and it is HEAVY.
I am going to do a full review on it sometime ... but probably not this month. Been travelling in china the last months and gonna be here for a while still and travelling ALOT so its always full of stuff camera stuff computer stuff macbook pro drobo mini etc

take my advice as someone that has spent alot of time and money searching for the right bag and save yourself alot of money just get the gura gear. I also got the little bags they sell free on a sale and they are great for keeping chargers and cables neat and tidy in the bag.

Well I did eventually buy the lens in the US on Ebay and a friend brought it down to Panama. And I just ordered a refurb 6D at Canon Direct. Hopefully they will not cancel the order. I called via Skype and the body is to be delivered to my registered CC address in USA. I called the CC company 30 minutes after the order was made and Canon had already charged the card and it was authorized, so maybe I will get this one.

As someone said, canon is playing it safe by not filling any non US based orders. It would be nice if they posted that on their website to say a lot of grief to people like myself...

Thanks for all your comments.

Jim Saunders said:

brianftpc said:

I got my Canon 1Dx December 31, 2012 and the right grip is turning white. I had read about this happening on the 5D3 but not on the 1Dx. Is there a recall on this problem?

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If it a rare occurrence then they'll likely just fix the ones which get sent in; If it is widespread then they'll likely recall them. If it is worth doing for a T4i then it is absolutely worth doing on their current top-of-the-heap pro body.

Jim

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You are correct...it was the T4i...idk why I said 5D3

My point is both were shot with a 10 stop ND3.0. I've shot up to 30 minutes with an ND3 filter. I recall the hot pixels became an issue.

Sporgon said:

My main use of the rear LCD display is to view the exposure via the histogram. As many have found, judging the exposure from the picture can be very misleading, but 'blinkies' can be helpful. However the histogram is always very small, and subtleties regarding small amounts of data at either extreme end can be inconvenient if not nigh on impossible to see.

I'd like an option on the higher end camera where you can select the whole, or virtually the whole of the rear LCD to display a large histogram - so I can see it properly. With this enabled you could then toggle to the picture via the 'info' button or what ever. The extremes of the histogram could blink if the data is beyond the sensor.

This would be very useful to me. Anyone have thoughts on this facility ?

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Makes sense, anything that helps on fhe fly is good. I've been too close to screw up a couple of times doing outdoor portrait sessions because I didn't pay enough attention. With this highlighted, I think I would have discovered it earlier.

It's likely that there are too many counterfeits out there.

Genuine and decoded third party batteries are fine on my 5DIII.

It's a smurf booger - gross.