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EOS-1D X Firmware 1.2.1 in the Wild

Oh yes, please, EG-S support!! and for ME it has nothing to do with MF or liveview focusing manual primes, although I might consider buying back the Zeiss 28mm f2 (faaantastically fun lens). It just has everything to do with being able to CLEARLY see where my 1.2 dof is put and when tracking to see when I need to push or wait. For composition it's absolutely crucial and although I have a feel for the dof, there are very small changes that could lift an image IF I could see. Holding the camera out from the eye in LV? No thanks...
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First Time Travelling To Asia/Africa With My Gear: I Need Advice

Insure your gear, make sure you read the policy and that it covers business use, applies world wide, and offers replacement value coverage. That's question 3, but it should be step 1. ;)

You might consider a hard case for your gear. When I travel, I pack my camera gear in a Lowepro Flipside 300 or 400 AW, or a DSLR Video Fastpack 250 AW (depending on how much gear), and then I pack that loaded bag inside a Pelican Storm im2500 hard case, with a pair of TamperSeal TSA SearchAlert Extended Hasp locks along. That way, I have the gear protected in case I'm forced to check the bag (late boarding or small regional planes with limited stowage), I have a secure case to lock up the gear in a hotel, and I still have an easy way to carry it around at my destination.

Welcome, and have a great trip!
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EOS-1D X Firmware Specifcations

neuroanatomist said:
Ahhh, now I see the issue. Yes, that's true - I suppose it's a result of the transmissive LCD. The older cameras you mention have the AF points etched onto the focus screen - they're always 'on' and because of the etching, when illuminated, the light hits them in such a way that pretty much only the selected AF point lights up. With the transmissive LCD, when it's illuminated the selected AF point(s) are 'lit' but to a lesser extent the whole VF glows red. That is a bit distracting, sort of like wearing rose-colored glasses or suffering from a bad hangover. ;) That glow also mucks with the metering, which is why it turns off after AF lock, and why the AI Servo 'fix' is the illumination blinking on/off rather than steady.

Personally, while the transmissive LCD has some drawbacks, I think those are outweighed by the benefits of AF point display flexibility, on-demand grid display, etc.
+1
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Which is better? 5D MKII or 6D?

beansauce said:
5. You can't beat a 5D2 with 24-105 kit for $2299. IT WAS A STEAL... THANKS AMAZON!!!!!
6. The money saved allowed me to justify a 70-200L IS II.

Actually you can: http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/01/deal-canon-eos-6d-bundles-at-bh-photo/
6D for $2499 (With no tax which Amazon does have in my state and 2% =$49.98 in B&H rewards and another 2% from my credit card company)
But please hook me up with your link for a $100-200 70-200 2.8L ISII because that's a steal!

Also: for those saying CF>SD and it will cost a fortune for new cards have you looked up prices for SD online lately? One quick search and $59.95 for a 64GB sandisk extreme (about 2,500 RAWs) from B&H with 45mb/s so if you can afford a Canon Full frame in any flavor I'd say you can afford a few SD's ???
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Any news on the 7dMk2 now that CES is done

Don Haines said:
kubelik said:
I agree with jrista about EVF's been a long way away from being truly good, but I also agree with your point that technology grows quickly, and it certainly will get there, probably sooner than the decade that jrista predicts.
One of my co-workers brought in an Olympus E-M5...we played comparison between it and a 7D. The EVF on it is comparable to the 7D, it takes better quality pictures in poor light, about the same in good light, and I really can't tell the difference in AF speed or accuracy. I was amazed that this camera was so good. It's hard to deny the existance of something you are holding in your hands... this wasn't just an EOS-M killer, it was a Rebel killer too, and if it wasn't for the way better user interface on the 7D and Canon Lglass, it would have topped the entire APS-C lineup.

And apparently Olympus has announced that the replacement for the E-5 will support both 4/3 and micro-4/3 lenses, which kind of implies that it will be micro-4/3 with an adapter. Nikon users are also complaining about there being no D400. My guess is that everybody is working on professional mirrorless cameras and that the 7D replacement will actually have the name "M1". When it comes is anybody's guess.

Something like the Metabones Speed Booster makes this possible.. That device has a magnification of 0.707 and gives a 1-stop improvement in maximum aperture. However, the Canon version of APS-C is 1.6X not 1.5X. Therefore, a Canon-specific booster could have a magnification of 0.629 and give a 1-1/3 improvement in maximum aperture.
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5D3 quick start help

Mt Spokane Photography said:
You do need some time to AFMA your lenses, and find out if that particular body over or underexposes, and if you are using flash, you need to check exposures as well.

Doh! I would've forgotten AFMA--thanks!

I have a firm policy against flash photography in athletes faces, so generally just go without so I'm not thinking about it.
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Has anybody been using the 6D wireless function for live view to a tablet?

Your problem cayenne amounts to a different kettle of fish. Using the HDMI connection requires a whole other class of dedicated monitors, slow heavy and very expensive to buy or rent -- I've used some.

Canon comes to the rescue if you want to go wireless however, with their "wireless file transmitter" made specially for your camera model. It costs only $850 (eight hundred and fifty dollars, less one penny to be perfectly exact).
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/consumer_cameras_wft/wireless_file_transmitter_wft_e7a

The issue of what you would broadcast To still remains -- which is the question I raise in this thread.
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Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT Flash & PocketWizard

You need one Mini TT1 on the body you're using. If you use two bodies during a shoot, it may make sense to have a second Mini TT1. A single Mini TT1 transmitter can control a whole bunch of receivers/tranceivers. I use an on-camera Mini TT1 to control a pair of Flex TT5s and a PowerMC2 for an Einstein monolight (and it's the ability to trigger that monolight that's holding me back from Canon's RT system).

The Flex TT5 can be either a receiver or a transmitter, so you could have a Mini on one camera and a Flex on the other camera with one flash, or a Mini on one camera and a Flex on each of two flashes.

The Mini/Flex system allows E-TTL automatic flash metering, the Plus III system does not.
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17-40 vs 16-35, which one got the mojo ?

Both lenses come to life in the hands of the right photographer...

Being wide angle lenses, neither of them are for the pixel peeping crowd... I have seen some striking photographs made with both these lenses...here is a recent one I came across on flicker. The obvious distortion IMHO actually vastly helps the mood of this picture:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/91499534@N00/8403207353/#sizes/c/

Edit: Just noticed in the EXIF this was with the older version of 16-35...apparently version II corrects some of this... so perhaps it is just as well he used the older version. :) ISO 2500 noise and pretty slow speed of 1/15th on a non stablized lens...not bad I think.
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Do You Own This Filter: B+W 77 XS-Pro UV MRC-Nano 010M Filter

From your other thread:

Sorry, but you're worrying over nothing. Put the filter on the lens, the hood will fit just fine.

FWIW, for both the XS-Pro and F-Pro mounts, in all the sizes I have (58mm, 67mm, 72mm, 77mm, and 82mm), the outer diameter of the filter is the same as the outer diameter of the same-sized lens cap. If the hood fits over the lens cap (it always does), it fits over the filter.
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Canon EF 24-70 f/4L IS Coming [CR3]

Canon-F1 said:
sick_666 said:


that is no review... not yet.

it´s a preview.

True but you do seem to be able to compare target shots, looking forward to the full review though
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ISO 50

Below is the best single summary to date


TheSuede said:
In the end, from a factual PoV:

  • HTP does not in any case UNLESS the one-off case where the starting point is ISO100 lower absolute photometric exposure. At set ISOs 200-800 it does however increase the electronic noise pollution in the finished image somewhat in Canon cameras.
  • Exposure is exposure is exposure, and exposure sets the photon noise level in the image. It's set by the scene light emittance modulated by shutter speed and lens T-stop (aperture + losses), and actually also for all practical considerations: QE of the sensor. Not by ISO - though the ISO setting can change aperture and/or shutter speed when the camera is in auto- mode (anything but "M" mode), it's a secondary effect. ISO changes setting, setting changes exposure.
  • ISO in digital cameras is a translating factor between exposure (exposure x QE = cell charge) and raw file ADU value.
  • The amount of headroom available in a camera can NEVER be higher than when the camera is used on base ISO (ISO100 in the case discussed here) - Since the highest DR is always at base ISO, unless the construction is seriously flawed (actually totally botched!). This means that ISO200 + HTP has the same 'potential' headroom, since the actual physical amplification is set at ISO100, not 200
  • ISO50 (or more generally "lower than actual base ISO") settings are useless for raw shooters, but may be of some use for jpg shooters.

Feel free to add constructive criticism, or point out any error(s). But be very ashamed if this post is considered OT and erased.
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