Posts

xps · Sep 8, 2013

Great idea!

But the text begins about 3-4 pages below the menue (I have to scroll about 3-4 pages down, using an Galaxy S3). Maybe you can fix this

Sep 7, 2013

Speak to the hire house. They'll be able to tell you, or be able to rent you the right thing.

You'll get an answer involving a 1DX to any question you post on this forum, which is mainly photography based in any case.

Repost in the video thread or ask the hire house.

chauncey · Sep 7, 2013

Then I won't let it concern me...thanks guys

ejenner · Sep 7, 2013

Yea, IMO you are lucky. When I think of filters for protection - that kind of impact is not what I'm thinking about since it can actually do more damage to the front element.

MLfan3 · Sep 7, 2013

CHL said:
I have had the 24-70/2.8 II for a couple of months and I realise now that I have not used the 35/1.4 since. Obviously an f1.4 can do things a f2.8 can't but is DOF really an issue for a wide lens? And I have the 5D MKIII so light/ISO is not that much of a problem either. I was just about to put the 35/1.4 up for sale but I simply can not make up my mind.... Opinions are more than welcome.

it really depends on how fast you want it to be , if you need f1.4 or even f1.8, then the zoom does not work for you.
I have the 24-70Lii and Zeiss 35mm f1.4 and I need both.
but for pure resolution , I don't think the prime is any better , maybe the new 24-70f2.8 markii beats it.
the new 24-70mm f2.8 is an amazing lens, and imho, it is one of the best zooms ever made , I rate it better than my 70-200f2.8Lii or Nikon AFS70-200f2.8VR2.

surapon · Sep 7, 2013

ydmaster said:
so many rumors going around and some say replacement announcements are bound any day.

If I am buying I would be buying 1dx or 5d3, but I don't really know if it's a right time.

I currently using 1ds3 which I use for wildlife but rarely for studio.

What do you guys think?

Should I use swing away with 1dx and forget about the replacements?

Another thing bothering me with 1dx is megapixels. I don't really care if it goes up but went down?? I really don't get it. Makes me feel this was all in for sports events with 12 FPS feature which really isn't necessary.

Does 1Dx work well for wildlife?

Dear Ydmaster.
You already have a great Camera which can do the best job for you. If I were you, I will use my old Camera and Spend Money on the Lenses that you do not have yet , The Lenses that you want to do some special photos.
Yes, I will wait for Summer 2014 after the Big Show/ Exhibition in Las Vegas---That All New and improve DSLR / EOS come in the market.
Sorry, That Just my Idea. Good lick to your new Cameras, or New Lenses.
Surapon

ragmanjin · Sep 7, 2013

CarlTN said:
ragmanjin said:

I seriously hope they don't buy out Phase One. Phase and Dalsa have a beautiful thing going, and throwing Canon's now-outdated sensor tech into the mix would only turn gold to straw — not to mention it would have to be heavily AA-filtered and video-optimized to meet Canon standards. When Phase moved from Kodak to Dalsa, they lost the long exposures but gained worldwide acclaim for their colour accuracy and huge dynamic range. And, finally, after years of co-research and development between the two companies, they've brought hour-long exposures back on a Dalsa sensor, mixing the company's class-leading patented high-ISO pixel binning with Kodak's drool-envoking long exposures from yesteryear. Canon has nothing to add to either side of that; lobster-red skin tones and three less stops of dynamic range with all kinds of noise at any exposure longer than 30 seconds. Which is garbage for us stills-only photographers.
I keep reading posts from users asking Canon to bring in the first affordable medium format system. Look at the Pentax 645D. At the time of writing this, its price is about on par with that of the 1D X. And in true Pentax style, any MF Pentax lens you find in any pawn shop will absolutely work with the system. That, my friends, is cheap glass. Can't be beaten for price. A close second is second-hand Leaf backs attached to Mamiya AFD bodies. You can actually get yourself a whole 20+ MP kit with a couple lenses for less than $5000 if you're looking in the right places, and it allows you to switch between film and digital. I've got the DF+, but my Phase digital back pretty much lives on my Mamiya AFD. Kill the backup before you challenge the master, right? But if Canon buys Phase, they'd be killing the master to become the backup. That just won't do.

Click to expand...

What are you shooting with an hour long exposure?

Light painting. Star trails. Lower than low light shots. Having the option to flick the shutter, go for dinner and come back to end the exposure offers a lot of freedom and opens a lot of creative doors.

dolina · Sep 6, 2013

Guaranteed it will breach the Nikon price. I have yet to see any Nikon or Canon equivalent lens price below the competition if it is newer.

So expect a 800mm IS II that surpases $18,000. I am thinking a nice round $20,000 at 3kg.

Pi · Sep 6, 2013

JohanCruyff said:
A bit off-topic.
Tamron & Sigma lenses are expected to perform better on Canon than on Nikon mount, in my opinion.

We have to consider that Nikon crop factor is 1.5, while Canon's one is 1.6 and, therefore, an APS-C lens optically developed in order to get both mounts should have (slightly) less vignetting (and better transmission, maybe?).

For this reason, third party lenses would perform better on Nikon crop bodies, not Canon. The 1.5 crop sensor are like mini-FF compared to Canon, which means a bit less enlargement.

LearningCameras · Sep 6, 2013

I think they are very good. Here is a review of them using the 5D3. Works very well and I use them all the time with the 5D3 as well as my EOS-M:

Eye-Fi Mobi Review, Setup, and How to guide

mrsfotografie · Sep 6, 2013

grog13 said:
mrsfotografie said:

It may depend on the body....

Click to expand...

I wondered about that. And the only body I have right now is the eos-M, so it does do quite a bit of back & forth. When I had another 70-200 in the past (used with SLRs of course, mostly 40d & 50d) there was not so much "indecision" on the part of the camera.

There you go, the 'indecision' is the cause, just as is the case with my 70-200 on the 5D2

qwerty · Sep 6, 2013

Just to try to drag the thread back on-topic, here are my favorites in each row:
1d
2a
3d
4b
5c (d had less noise, but seemed oversmoothed)
6d (d had less noise and seemed "sharp enough", but I get the feeling that if there were more detail it would have looked oversmoothed)

I want to thank the OP for making this comparison, and would be curious to see more of the same. I know a few issues have been pointed out in the thread, and a second pass might be even better.

If I had the time, what I would do is download the raw files of a standard scene from somewhere (I thought dpreview posted them somewhere, but either I am misremembering, bad at searching, or they took them down when they added their scene comparison widget) and convert them yourself using lightroom with the same settings, except scaled so that the image sizes are the same for the different cameras. You can even keep them as tiffs until final conversion to keep everyone (less un-)happy.

Oh, and how about a less inflammatory title for the next thread? : o )

vcp · Sep 6, 2013

Ah, thanks! I did search but obviously didn't dig too deep.

A buy and sell forum doesn't have to be complicated. Simply post a photo which includes the item for sale with a piece of paper that includes your screen name and the date. As with any other online classifieds, it is buyer beware. There really doesn't need to be any investment of time or energy into it other then creating a new section for this type of posting. If it were to take off and be really popular then maybe at that point in time some additional thoughts should go into expanding the experience. In the beginning it really is just a place to buy and sell items we all share a common interest in. Just like car forums etc.

surapon · Sep 6, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Jim K said:

Once I bought my 5D3, my 70-200 f/4L IS moved from the Birding group to the new Landscape group. It does nice work there. It still visits the birders on occasion.

Click to expand...

200mm on FF can work for birds, but you have to get close...

EOS 1D X, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM @ 200mm, 1/60 s, f/2.8, ISO 125

Back to the OP's point, while a 400mm prime can be used for landscapes, it's likely not ideal. I and others have mentioned using a 70-xxx or 100-400 zoom for landscape shooting, but how much of that is at the long end? For me, many are in the 70-150mm range. The 100L Macro also makes a very nice landscape lens...

EOS 1D X, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, 1/100 s, f/5.6, ISO 200

Great Photos , Sir, Dear Teacher.
Surapon

Codzilla · Sep 6, 2013

I bought a couple at Don's photo and they had Canada/USA warranty cards in them. I'm sure the Vistek ones are the same (both stores are Canon authorized sellers).

The flashes are still $20 cheaper at Don's. Check out this thread:

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=16680.msg308098#msg308098

http://donsphoto.com/spec_sheet.html?catalog[name]=Canon-Speedlite-600EX-RT-canon-flash&catalog[product_guids][0]=799012

Sep 6, 2013

Got my 1D X 'fixed' today for the AF service advisory issue. Given some of the 'horror stories' above about poor packaging, etc., I took advantage of a work-related day trip to New Jersey to bring it in person to the Jamesburg, NJ service center (about a 20 minute drive from where I needed to be today).

Despite being short-staffed (only two of their six technicians were in, the rest are out on vacation), since I was just down for the day from Boston, they very kindly serviced it while I waited. Took less than an hour including a free sensor cleaning.

Thanks, Canon!

Valvebounce · Sep 6, 2013

Hi Folks, I have the EF-s 17-85 kit lens from my 40D, I am using it on my 7D which I bought body only.
I have checked the AFMA using the dot focus method and find that from 50-85 I need 0 to +1 for centre point of dot method.
The problem arises as I get down to 17mm I am out of AFMA points starting at about +10 and still going at +20.
I had the ribbon cable repaired recently though I don't think this has caused the problem as I see that older pics have the same OOF problem.
My question is, is this normal for this lens, if not can it be easily dialled in as I see this is the end I use most.
I do not wish to spend any more on this lens and I am not shy of getting out the screwdrivers if I can find someone to tell me which bit affects what. What I don't want to do is experiment with adjustments and screw up the end that is in focus!
It is possible that the best bit won't be having the lens fixed but fixing it myself!

Cheers Graham.

Mt Spokane Photography · Sep 6, 2013

This topic has been moved to Technical Support.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=16818.0

surfer57 · Sep 6, 2013

There are a number of really good splash housings out there (SPL, Del Mar, Aquatech, CMT, Essex, and more). These are specifically meant for above water photography though. I had an SPL for my 30D for about 5+ years and have since moved onto CMT for my 1DX. It is lighter and more streamlined which is key for such a big rig.

Click · Sep 6, 2013

She's driving on the wrong side of the road ;D lol

Nice video!

sandymandy · Sep 6, 2013

Didnt read many of his posts but the ones i read were quite provoking and just looking for trouble. So imho a ban is justified. Sure we could all just say "oh whatever" and ignore his provocations but thats not what a forum is about

Click · Sep 5, 2013

Canon guys are at the back

Valvebounce · Sep 5, 2013

Hi Sama,
I bought one of these for my 40D, fitted it and hated the way it felt in the hand, can't really put a finger on what it was though, it fit real snug, did not slop around, did what it was meant to do! I just didn't like it, much prefered the feel of the bare camera. Also I wasn't convinced that it offered enough extra protection to justify putting up with the way it felt, I put it back in the box and put it on the shelf.
I do however keep looking at the box on the shelf and only a couple of days ago I thought I should try it again, thought as the 40D is now my backup to a 7D it might benefit from the extra protection.

I would see if you can hold a camera that is wearing one before you buy one as this is a very subjective item!

Hope this is of some help to you.

Cheers Graham.

Edit I also use the 2 piece GGS screen protectors on my cameras and found them a good fit and easy to apply.

BozillaNZ · Sep 5, 2013

Re: Canon Expands Its Cinema Prime Lens Family to Six Models with the Introduction of the New CN-E35

Ricku said:
BozillaNZ said:

Disguised 35L II is out in the wild! When will the real thing come?

Click to expand...

It is already here.

It is called the Sigma 35, and it is actually cheaper than the old 35L.