Posts

rs · Sep 2, 2013

Viggo said:
The question shouldn't be about the "1dx for books?", it should be "Where can I find a machine that flips through the pages at 12 pages pr second. : :

Or 'how do I use iBooks?'

degies · Sep 2, 2013

I had the 17-40 and it is a an awesome lens. I sold mine to get my 24-70II , but every time I am out there I miss it and I need something a bit wider. I am thinking of getting one again, but I am considering the 16-35 II
I like doing sunrises or sunsets and want to try some astrophotography and I think that extra stop will be worth it. I agree for most daytime stuff the F7-f11 is where the 17-40 shine, but for low light that 2.8 must be worth the extra cash

Does anybody here use the 16-35 for sunrise sunset or night time shoots?

verysimplejason · Sep 2, 2013

Just got some pre-nuptial photography for a friend last week.

All photos are taken with my good old Canon 500D + 50mm F1.8 and 55-250mm IS. Processed in LR 3.6.

Policar · Sep 1, 2013

You played to the camera's strengths at least.

rmfagan · Sep 1, 2013

So...just read about this and thought I'd put it to you fine folks. Rather than mailing off your gear for repair, you can apparently make an appointment and go in person in one of two areas. Anyone done this? I'm specifically interested in the Ridgefield Park, NJ location.

What are the advantages? Do they actually do simple repairs on the spot? Is this just trading shipping for gas/time? What's the process? I've asked for an appointment so we'll see what they say. Are they pretty good about fitting you in or should I expect an outrageous wait list to get a slot?

Thanks all

Random Orbits · Sep 1, 2013

Has anyone tried using the EOS-M with the 270 EX II flash? Does it work well? I'm looking for something small that would match the M but would still have decent power. I don't need it to do much else (triggering, etc.), so it's mainly for fill, etc. Trying to decide whether or not to get it while DigitalRev has it on sale for 130.

rs · Sep 1, 2013

JumboShrimp said:
For all my non-L lenses, or should I say all lenses which won't accept the Canon TCs. Such as: 24-105/4, 70-300/DO, etc. Just for the so-called "emergencies" when you need some reach.

It varies from lens to lens, so if you want people with hands on experience to answer, best to say which lenses

The general rule for Canon extenders is they're meant to work with all the white L lenses and nothing else, but like most rules, there are exceptions. The 70-300L is a white L which isn't supported (but it will work from 270mm onwards), the 180L is black but it works, the 400/4, while white it isn't L, but it works, and there are non L black lenses such as the TS-E 90 which work.

Incidentally, your 24-105 is an L lens

Zen · Sep 1, 2013

I agree. It IS a great shot. The only thing that would make it better would be to include the ball coming off his toe in the upper right corner . . . showing action! Now THAT would be something!!

Good luck.

Zen ;D

curtisnull · Sep 1, 2013

I have both. I just left yesterday for a family vacation to Colorado where I will be shooting some family pics, some landscapes and possibly some wildlife. I wanted a small kit to carry with me since it is vacation. I left the 1Dx at home and brought the 5D3. Mostly because of size and weight. I didn't feel that on this trip I would need the advantages of the 1Dx. That being, in my opinion, frame rate and an extra stop of usable ISO. In fact, I only packed 2 lenses for the trip. The 24-70/2.8L II and the 300/2.8L IS II. Well, and the 2.0x III. That all fit perfectly inside the Think Tank Urban Disguise 50 v2.0.

I debated on bringing the 70-200/2.8L IS II but in the end, left it at home.

mosest · Sep 1, 2013

I use this lens for 10 month and very happy with the result. look what i found on Tamron site.
"The phenomenon of the display shaking when VC starts and ends is a normal part of VC's operation and is therefore not abnormal.
The VC mechanism in lenses for Nikon and Canon cameras uses a shift method that moves part of the optical system parallel to the image plane. When the VC mechanism is switched off, the VC lens element that compensates for vibration is locked in the center of the optical system. When the VC switch is turned on and the camera's shutter button is pressed halfway down, the lock is released, allowing Vibration Compensation to start. When the shutter button is released and not pressed again for a set time period, the lens decides that shooting has ended and locks the VC lens to stop Vibration Compensation.This locking mechanism uses a lock/release method to control the rotations of the VC lens when the lock is turned on/off. The display in the viewfinder shakes when the lock is turned on/off, because the rotation axis of the drive mechanism (VC actuator) that turns the lock on/off is not necessarily the same as the optical axis of the VC lens. "
hope this will answer for your worry

Moshe

hovland · Sep 1, 2013

dgatwood said:
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the 16-35 II yet. It's slightly wider than the 17-40, and is considerably sharper in the corners.

+1
I like the 16-35, and it was worth the exta money compared to the 17-40.

BrandonKing96 · Sep 1, 2013

Thank you both for your replies!
@luoto- don't worry, I had to double check I wrote it in the right order!

RGF · Sep 1, 2013

Apop said:
The recently reignited debate about sensors performance and Nikon's superiority have led me to post this to make the canon users feel better!

If you shoot sports/wildlife you might want to take consecutive shots, FPS is important.
If you shoot raw, buffer may be an issue .

Here is 3 seconds of action

3 seconds of action

d800 : 12 shots
d7100: 14 shots(at best, the buffer is terrible)
d600 : 16 shots
6d : 14 shots (AF might be an issue)
5dIII: 18 shots
7d : 24 shots
1d4 : 30 shots (if you want to buy, it must be second hand)
d4 : 30 shots (high price)
1dx : 36 shots (high price )

The only affordable nikon ( so excluding 5-6K$ cameras like d4) that has a decent enough frame rate and buffer IMO is the d600. Well the d600 lacks the AF system that the d7100 and d800 have..., it's autofocus is far inferior to those....

In the canon segment, I think the 7d, 5dIII and 1d4 are all wonderful alternatives (the 70d should have 16 shot buffer, so you might get 19-21 shots in 3 seconds).

The 5d3 focus system is better than that of the d600, the 1d4 focus system is also better.
I am not sure if the 7d/70d focus system trumps the d600.

All in all you have a lot more choice for sports/wildlife on the canon side!

About 6-9 months ago I looked at switching from Canon to Nikon. I did this since I was considering adding a 200-400, 1Dx or 4D, and upgrading my 500. All this is lots of $ so that was the time to consider the switch.

In a nutshell I decide Canon won one the long end, at least a tie if not a win for the bodies except for the D800 high MP but Canon's 5D M3 won on ISO, at least a tie if not a win for intermediate focal lengths such as the 70-200, 24-70 (Nikon's 80-400 is superior to Canon's 100-400, at least for a while), and Nikon won by a fair bit on wide angles. Add T/S in Canon's favor and it is a no brainier - stick with Canon

Aug 31, 2013

A thing of beauty.

9VIII · Aug 31, 2013

Every camera will accumulate dead pixels over time.
After about six months my T3 got a bad dead pixel in the middle of the screen, the manual cleaning trick didn't work so I sent it in (under warranty) with a list detailing all the dead pixel locations (and I mean an exhaustive listing with precise locations). It came back producing nearly perfect black images (a few new ones developed after mapping, only minor though).
On my 5D2 there's still about half a dozen dead pixels that won't go away. It's only a problem with long exposures though (about five seconds or longer) so I don't worry about it. My other camera often goes into long exposures for macro stuff so a clean sensor is more critical there.
At this point I consider sending your camera in for mapping a part of regular maintenance, though that's probably only necessary if you like to do long exposures.

vlim · Aug 31, 2013

Thanks for your answer.

stilscream · Aug 31, 2013

Weight played a factor, so I narrowed it down to my 1DX, 600mm f4 + tripod, 35mm f1.4, 14mm 2.8, 70-200mm 1.4/2x extenders and bringing a charger and extra battery. I hope it all fits. I tried to wrap my 600 in bubblewrap this morning and it no longer fit in my bag. One way or another I am getting it there! Wish me luck, I leave tomorrow morning!

Marsu42 · Aug 31, 2013

Fyi: This Magic Lantern dual_iso module doesn't only work on 5d3 anymore, but in the latest build on:

* 500d, 550d, 600d, 700d
* 50d, 60d
* 7d
* 5d2, 5d3

I just tried it on my 60d and I'd suggest for everyone to give it a try, there are hardly any artifacts at all in the latest release and it will make you realize how much of a difference it makes if 2-3 stops of dr are conjured out of thin air - I'm more convinced than ever that at least to me dr on my 60d's sensor is a limiting factor.

johnhenry · Aug 31, 2013

Hmm A masterful job and a unique look. Camo is sort of old looking already.

You can easily sew it on a machine. I redid my 200 1.8 so that it is in just 2 pieces as they got the seams misaligned

Etienne · Aug 31, 2013

Thanks for the video!

Can you compare the high ISO video performance of the two cameras (from 1600 to 12800) ?

verysimplejason · Aug 31, 2013

Anybody got experience with this brand? I've used one and found it seems it loses more light than Hoya HD. Aside from that, I didn't notice any color cast so far.

RAKAMRAK · Aug 31, 2013

SwissBear said:
Or the new sigma 18-35 f/1.8 DC for crop sensors.

Yes, that is the lens that made me ask the question. I have not handled the 16-35L. but the Sigma felt nice, that is why I was dreaming for an EF-S 17-55 of that type.

shashinkaman · Aug 31, 2013

Ever think it could be your camera that is causing this 'bad marriage'? I'm just saying that when people talk about 'bad lenses' they conveniently ignore the fact that the camera also plays a very BIG part in the focusing equation...

Just like Noah, I have "two of each" and many a time one of my lenses works perfectly well (or only needs a little AF microadjustment) on body A but can't be made to work (i.e. achieve sharp images) on body B.

Did you try this lens on another camera? If you did, I missed it in the many replies and posts, if you didn't it might be worth your while to try it.

Good luck!