lifilmmaker said:

Has anyone ever experienced a grinding sound when shooting video with the T3i?

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I have shot video with the 60D and the 5DII. On both cameras you can hear the IS. My solution is to turn off IS if using the internal mic, or the better solution, get an external mic. Just about any external mike will beat the in-camera mic. The key thing to look for is some form of isolation from the mic stand, or if hotshoe mounted, from the camera body. The lower picture shows details of a hotshoe mount... the green line points to the hotshoe mount, the red lines point to the elastics used to isolate the microphone from the mount, and the blue lines point to hair shed by Fluffy the cat. (cat hair is optional).

HoneyBadger said:

I am not going to put much faith on that test. First, both lenses need to be taken at the same focal length. Second, they should use a full frame so corner sharpness can be determined

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they have tested at the same focal lengths. of course they included the 105mm too.
you have to watch and understand the review video.

if you read the website, they are working on a FF review.

Who legitimately tests an L series lens on a cropped sensor anyways...?

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photozone for example.. and i did not hear complains about it.... :

http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos

i think they may had a bad sample. but that gives me not much faith either.
as roger mentioned the 70mm end showed quite a lot of variation.

SDHC Cards seldom write at more than 10 MB/sec once they have been used. The figures on Roger Gailbrathe's page only apply to a newly erased card, and that is not the same as a formatted card, its a low level format that can take 30 minutes or more. The 5D MK III can do a low level format on a SD card, but its a battery eater.
On the other hand, CF cards will write much faster, even if they have been used and filled with data.
Since the slowest card to write is going to limit you when writing to both cards, except for the unusual case of totally blank cards, 10 MB/sec is the most common limit.

Right from the beginning my 7d, 2 months old with firmware 2.0.3 had the freezing problem. No action possible after it went in sleep mode. Have to take the battery out. Is in repair now. So it is not true that the newest firmware tackles this problem, although canon claims that the version 2.0.3. "fixes a phenomenon in which the camera stops working when the auto power off setting takes effect.". No way!!! I think it is about time that canon solves this problem now for once and for all. It's really annoying that I had tot take back my 7d after 2 months.

Thanks for your input! I'm gonna either stick with center point or setup orientation-linked for portrait & landscape which both are NOT center. I'll compare my images over the w/e. But i definitely agree with u regarding having enough to worry about, LOL! My prob lately (& not even sure if it is one) but i actually FORGET that my camera has any other mode than M....i used to always shoot on AV or TV & since M i NEVER switch! Maybe ill try this too?

I've never used the MkI, but the MkII is stellar. TDP's charts show that I can put a 1.4x extender behind the MkII and still have better IQ than the MkI.

Also, I really like the convenience of being able to change the tilt and shift axes relative to one another on the fly. Having used it, I would not want a TS-E lens without that capability.

bdunbar79 said:

Oh lighten up everybody.

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Ha. Not a good idea unless we own Nikons, apparently....

I guess I'm lucky that my aesthetic preferences prevent me from pushing the dark areas of photos I take with my 5DII to the extent that I can see banding. (Nor could I see any difference in this regard between the 6D and D600 when I rented them last weekend.)

See the comparison in features
http://t4ivst3i.com

I remember us hoping that canon would use some line skipping tech in the 5D3 to make the video sharp like picture...too bad that never happened.

Thanks guys, both things worked.

Well, it seems we finally have a positive resolution to this whole ordeal. Today my replacement lens arrived!

It had been so long since I last used it that I was convinced it wasn't the same lens! DWI used my same box and packing materials so it was a bit misleading in the end. At any rate, it is the right lens, and it is brand new. And most importantly, it seems to work correctly.

I'll use it over the next few days to get an idea if it really is all sorted. If it's not, expect to hear more from me. In the meantime, thanks everyone for your feedback and interest.

Cheers,

Michael

As soon as I came to fatal error for Nikon, I knew it was a troll. Nikon cameras take photos just fine. A "Fatal Error" would not let you take a photo by my definition. Lack of a feature is not Fatal, or even very interesting.

So what did you end up with? hows she like it?

user reviews on the nikon d600 and d800 are both below 4/5 stars from everywhere, except DXO of course. The 6d, 5d mkII and 5dmkIII are all above 4.4ish/5. I guess flinging oil around like a factory machine and left focus issues outweight the DXO scores and on-paper specs. I must say the d600 looks great on paper.

Respinder said:

Hi everyone..

I too am new to off-camera flash. I own a 5D Mark III and am looking to purchase a Speedlite 600EX-RT along with a Manfrotto 367B basic light stand ...

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Not an expert, just a hobbyist but here are some other options to consider. These are ideal for OCF and most are recommended by Syl Arena.

Perfect light weight stand for a single Speedlite http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M4HXB2/ref=wms_ohs_product

Not the cheapest route but these small ball heads are really handy to connect your speedlite. (They were more beneficial before when I had my optical flash units making it easy to align) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WN2114/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

1. To mount the flash onto the adaptor, I am assuming that the flash stand the 600EX-RT comes with will mount directly onto the adaptor spigot, or do I need to buy another part for this?

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The cold shoes that come with the Speedlite seem flimsy for mounting on a stand. I've only used those for table top mounting. Try these. I bought the plastic one just to avoid pin shorting but I like the metal best.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009UTL1/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i02
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CBTCFC/ref=wms_ohs_product

2. If I use a wired connection between the flash and the camera, I am assuming I will need a male-to-male PC cord that connects the flash directly to the camera? I've found that the longest distance cords are only 12 feet

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Instead, use a OCF cable and you can maintain ETTL. http://ocfgear.com/cords-for-canon-ettl/ettl-cord-extra-long/ If you get a ST-E3-RT, you should be able to skip cabling altogether

3. Alternatively, I could just go wireless and get the ST-E3-RT Speedlite Transmitter for an extra $300 - my only concern is that this price seems pretty steep to me, especially considering that another flash is only $200 more.. any advice here? Is the transmitter really worth it, or should I just go wired for now, and get another flash later?

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I hesitated on the ST-E3-RT because of the lack of the AF assist light. I bought it anyway and absolutely love it because it is so small and light you can barely tell anything is connected to your hot shoe. That itself is worth it IMO. If I need a AF assist, I'll have to slap on a another 600.

Is it just me, or does the Canon not smoke the Panasonic on image quality in this review? The reviewer is touting the constant f/2.8 aperture throughout it's 24x (600mm) range, and granted that does give nicer background blur/subject separation, and of course that can give higher shutter speed and all...BUT. He never talks about the IQ differences in his own comparison shots.

http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Panasonic_Lumix_DMC_FZ200/

It just seems like from his shots anyway that the Canon gives much sharper images.

.
One thing I forgot.

Polarizing filter and an ND filter or two. Lots of light out there!!

More food for thought, aperture maths depends on it being the diameter of the iris.
But the iris usually isn't a circle, save for waterhouse stop lenses or the likes of cooke lenses.

So the iris octogon, hexagon whatever, the area is going to be different from a circle of the same radius.

Depending on whether you measure the inside or outside edge of the iris shape there is going to be a slight difference, like say f2.7 from an "f2.8" lens.

If lenses didn't breathe, if apertures were always perfectly circular then such INSIGNIFICANT difference would not occur. But that ain't consumer mass produced lenses.

And it isn't a hook on which to hang canon or dxo.

dswatson83 said:

More comprehensive review by LearningCameras: http://www.learningcameras.com/reviews/4-dslrs/91-canon-6d-review

Noticed that the video was sharper in the 6D when I put it against the 5D mark III. Maybe Canon removed something that allowed the video to be sharper but allowed Moire. I noticed a bit more in the 6D but not a huge amount, but then again, I didn't shoot brick walls or roof tops where this issue would be seen the most.

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Maybe little different in video sharpness because both cameras were using different lenses? I think 6D was with new canon 35mm f2 IS and 5D mark III with new Sigma 35mm f1.4

Mt Spokane Photography said:

The most important thing is support. buying from a dealer with real photographers who can help you, having a friend who has deep experience with a similar camera, etc.
Many upgraders from point and shoot go out and buy a DSLR and are totally frustrated. They are not able to get that deep depth of field they are used to, the camera seems too heavy and bulky, they just put it in a closet and it stays there.
They first need to know what to expect, and have a reason for getting one rather than just thinking they will get better images. That is not true, its the photographer that makes the images work, and if they get poor images now, that won't change.

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I agree... For someone using a DSLR the first time a knowledgeable friend to talk to beats the best gear..... Take a look at camera clubs in the area, they can be a great way to learn in a social setting and many have classes. And go out and play with whatever camera you get.... that's one of the ways we learn.

Thank you for your replies. That answered my question

It's on page 314 of the manual:

http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/8/0300009238/01/eos6d-im-en.pdf

Click!

Exactly as you wrote the shutter stays flipped. This implies that shooting one video causes comparable stress to the shutter as shooting one image. In essence there is no increased wear and tear on a camera due to shooting videos instead of shooting images, at least not regarding physical stress.

kubelik said:

I believe you're conflating the 50mm f/1.4 USM and the 50mm f/1.2 L II USM, which is confusing some folks. there's a vast price difference between the two.

if you're referring to the 50 f/1.4 USM, yes, at ~$350 US or so it's a great price for a great lens.

if you're referring to the 50 f/1.2 L II USM, at ~$1500 US or so it's probably not a best first-purchase lens unless you really know for sure it's what you want. even if you know a 50mm focal length and wide-open shooting is what you want, a lot of people still decide to go with the cheaper 50 f/1.4 USM instead.

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oh thats my fault. I meant I am getting then 50mm 1.4 over the 50mm 1.2.

but on another note, this forum is great and just a wealth of information.

Thank you everyone for your help.

I'd keep the 50 mm on the 20D. You will propably use it only with large apertures to get shallow DoF. The 50 mm will not deliver much resolution wide open,

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Thank you, that was exactly the kind of logic I was struggling to find.

I'm also inclined to keep the 135mm on the 7D, as I use it for medium-range sports action requiring the improved frame rate & focussing capabilities of the 7D.

Also, with the flexibility of the zoom on the 20D, I shouldn't need to crop in post, so again the resolution shouldn't become an issue.

The lens is in stock where I can buy the kamera, but it doesn't seem like there are much info about it on the web. There's a preview at dpreview.com.

What about the EOS 6D with the 24-105mm IS combo? I was just thinking that the 24-70mm is new and both are f/4.

I do like the wifi and GPS feature of the 6D, also the smartphone thing, though it's mostly for the fun of it. The 5D2 is discontinued but surely a great camera.