neuroanatomist said:

AlanF said:

I have been using mode 3 stabilisation recently. It seems to work but I haven't rigorously tested it. What's it like on your set up.

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I usually use Mode 3 when on a monopod/tripod, and Mode 1 when handholding (for a more stable VF). Both work very well. Based on the above, I see no need to ever turn IS off.

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Neuro
Thanks so much for checking out everything.
Alan

http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-used-canon-eos-400d-digital-slr-camera-body-only/p1542145

and

http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-used-canon-ef-s-18-55mm-f3-5-5-6-mk-ii-lens/p1542144

£99 together, problem solved

All this talk of lumens, I think some clarification is needed. The physics of light are complicated, but essentially, lumens aren't the right measure of light for photography purposes.

Lumens measure the total light in the beam of a light source. It's a great way to compare two different lights of the same type, which is why it's required to list the ANSI lumen rating on almost all flashlights, lightbulbs, etc.

What's important to photography is the incident light on a scene (ignoring the complex reflectances of each object), which is measured in lux. A 1000 lumen flashlight will cast more lux onto an object than a 1000 lumen light bulb at the same distance, because a flashlight gives more light per unit of solid angle, measured in candelas. Of course, the distance of the light source also greatly affects lux. (Remember the inverse-square law?)

So don't say "1000 lumens is not enough" because it doesn't specify how much of that light is hitting the scene and being reflected into the camera.

That said, you can't ignore the uncalibrated, inconsistent color temperature of almost all flashlights, as well as the downsides of having a point light source (hard shadows, etc.). "Pro" photo/video (ie. expensive) lights and diffusers/modifiers are better, but the question will always be what's good enough for you. With a lot of experimentation, you could get good results from any light source.

sama said:

Salah Yousef said:

I clicked on ISO on video mode. It says I can't use ISO on video mode.

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When the T3i is in video mode (manual exposure only), simply press the ISO button behind the top dial, you will be able to select the ISO for sure.

Update : this will work when you set the Movie exposure to Manual. When you are in video mode, go to the menu. the first selection on the left allows you to switch between Auto and manual exposure.

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I edited the ISO and checked videos online to learn more about it. I set it on 30 8)
Is that good ?

The event is today...nothing to report?

I see they don't even list my EF 28-70mm f/2.8 L USM lens!

just replaced my older Leica DLux with a Fuji X20. Slightly larger but a definite step up.

Dylan777 said:

cliffwang said:

Dylan777 said:

ankorwatt said:

its called resolution/sharpness and evenness from 24-70mm mk2 compared with 24-70 mk1 which are a lottery to get one good copy, I have had 4
and the (IS) in the Tamron makes my day like the IS in my 70-200MK2 = sharp pictures in situations where my own handshake puts the limit

the old 24-70 is a good lens if you get a good copy , but after a while its starts to loose up in the front lens package and lens must be tighten up , today there are better lenses=as the Tamron with (IS)

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You have any photos taken with Tammy @ f2.8, shutter speed 1/30 or slower?

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This one was taken last Christmas season @f2.8 / 0.4sec.

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Were you holding the camera? It looks like the camera was sitting on the table surface.

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That's why I said the Tamron VC is amazing. The bottle was sitting on small ottoman, and I was sitting on the floor and use my body to support the camera. Your body can be a good support for your camera body. However, without VC, that would be very difficult to take a picture like this.

Edit:
Here is the place for that photo. Sorry for my messy house.

For examples from my flickr stream all shoot with my EOS 350D and different lenses:
1. Buildings shot with EF-S 10-22 some PP
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aj1575/7996996191/#
2. Sport-Show indoor shot with 70-200mm f4 IS
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aj1575/5242073692/#
3. Concert with 50mm f1.4
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aj1575/3852057375/#
4. Flower against sun with EF-S 10-22mm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aj1575/4682989292/#

Option 1 5D mk3 + 24-105 kit with a 135L f2

1. Later upgrade from either a 6D to a 5D mk 3 and/or from a Tamron lens to a Canon lens will cost.

2. 5D mk3 is good for sports, landscape and family shots.

3. A 5D mk3 with 24-105 kit is good value for money (in contrast to getting the lens separately in the future)

4. 135 is a very good lens that can be used for sports and family shots. Also it is small and light in contrast to 70-200 2.8

that1guyy said:

From around two weeks to three days. Good job Tamron.

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I hope they'll introduce this elsewhere like here in Germany - Tamron repair times are a little shorter than Canon non-cps, though it's still about 10 business days when I asked last time.

scottburgess said:

If you are asking which card will give the highest burst rate, or give you fast downloads, you may look at the test figures in Rob Galbraith's CF/SD/XQD database here:

http://www.robgalbraith.com/multi_pagee519.html?cid=6007

Since the 6D hasn't been specifically tested yet with these cards, I suggest you look at the 5D Mark III and 7D series as well as any card reader you use with your computer (if you do use a separate reader or are considering purchasing one).

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The 6D supports UHS-I, so it should easily be several times faster then either of those when used with a UHS-I card. The only Canon DSLR cameras that support UHS-I are the 6D, the T4i, the T5i, and the SL1. None of the Canon cameras on the list linked above have SD card performance that is even remotely comparable to the 6D.

kennephoto said:

neuroanatomist said:

Rent the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8. Try pics with and without the flash (with is ok if there are relatively low white ceilings for bouncing).

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Agreed +1

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+1

135 F2L is faster while 200 F2.8L II can reach more. 100 F2 is neither faster nor longer than the previous two [size=12pt]L[/size] lenses.

So I went into a bakery today and I did the unthinkable... I took a picture of my food. And I think it turned out kinda nice. So I went onto their facebook page and I saw a photo they took. I can appreciate the bakers aren't photographers, but I think they should seriously reconsider allowing whoever currently takes their photos to continue doing so.

The above bird is most certainly a green heron; they often raise that crest when angry or starlted. The below is of course a great blue heron. I like the image!

ATC said:

Thanks very much to the folks that recommended the 6D/24-105 to me (sdslr, Tabor Warren amoug others).

After just a few days of owning the camera, I am amazed at the difference the full frame has made so far. I have only shot landscape and indoors (with no flash), but the low-light performance is a knockout.

Now, if I just had a little ability - - -

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congrats....6d and 24-105, you're set...an awesome combo!

phoyager said:

wsmith96 said:

farmdwg - one thing that I found that helps me decide is to go to 500px.com and type in the camera and lens in the search bar. It gives me an idea of what the kit can do. [...] you can see the IQ in those situations.

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Personally I would be very careful! Postprocessing can do A LOT to a image and this is much more valid when we are talking about 'online'-resolutions. It's a quick job to bring a bad image, be it because of the photogs skills, the lens and/or the camera, to a point where it looks fabulous, as long as viewed only on a screen at low resolution. Online galleries are swampy terrain when it comes to judge a photog or some gear.

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I agree with you that it's not fool proof. I figure that some level of post processing will be done at some point in the OP's workflow. It was just a suggestion.

I thought climatization takes no less than 20 minutes, and 30 minutes is usually very safe.

Having said that, I am a little reckless with my gear and have never done the plastic bag treatment, so far I have never had an issue.

Though I have never had gear fog up on me.

I used my Mark IV up to ISO 12800 and my 5D MK III up to 25600. Obviously at those levels, there is noise, loss of detail, and a very narrow DR so exposure is critical. The nice thing about the 5D MK III is that it does not lose a lot as it goes to 25600, but its not beautiful either.

I sold my MK IV to get a smaller camera due to carpal tunnel syndrome, but do miss it for its reach, it was a wonderful camera.

Here are 1:1 samples with no NR or sharpening, but color and exposure corrections. They are not resized, they are what they are, focus errors and all. I think you'll see why I liked the MK IV.

1D MK IV at ISO 12800



D800




5D MK III

silversurfer96 said:

Awesome!!! Great job!!! Thanks for sharing.

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+1
Beautiful shots of amazing scenery!

7enderbender said:

While on the subject: the 24-70 f/4 doesn't make any sense to me whatsoever to me. I simply don't get it.

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Why not? It's no more costly than the 24-105 used to be a little while back. It has much improved optical quality. Improved IS. It's smaller and lighter.

Zv said:

cayenne said:

I've been learning my way around photoshop.

I see how you can create a logo and store it as a brush, and easily "stamp" your logo on images.

I'm curious....that process is ok if you're only doing a few images at a time.

But what if you have 100+ images you need to get out with a logo or watermark on them? Do ya'll program a PS action for this or what?

I've not gotten to 'actions' yet....but have heard about them.

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

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If you create a logo in photoshop and then save it as a PNG you can then use it in Lightroom. In LR go to edit > edit watermarks > and then click on the "choose" button in the Image options tab in the top right hand corner (you can also click on the "Graphic" option too which does the same thing). Find the PNG file and boom you're done. Now you can select multiple images and export with your watermark.

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Or better yet, create it in illustrator and save as .eps (if you have Illustrator).

bycostello said:

don't get too bogged down on it, as most people won't care....

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It matters hugely if you're doing it right... I'm not saying its a deciding factor, but an effective name/logo is one of the single most important variables you can invest properly in

CW Aust. said:

Been looking at providers for the same reason myself. Smugmug looks like exactly what I want, problem is the name. Doesn't sound professional to me, more like a kiddie site or something!

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Just get yourself a domain name - as easy as that. Just like the rest of the pros on smugmug

Responsibilities and pay will vary from photographer to photographer... Some may even expect you to work for free for a few jobs until you get a reputation and a proven worth. Many may expect you to use their gear, many will expect you to have your own gear or rent your own gear with the $$ they pay you. Editing i would guess would be primarily the primaries or first shooters role, but on occasion of they already have a crew with them, may just want you to cull your own images. I once gave a second shooter a task to cull their own images and they went on vacation before sending me the files. I almost fired him. Everything is negotiable, but make sure you get everything in writing and signed upon so there is no hurt feelings or miscommunication either way.