Posts

Salah Yousef · Aug 18, 2013

Snook said:
There are plenty of video reviews out there where you can hear the differences for yourself to help decide which you prefer.

Thank's for the tip. I checked a lot of videos on YouTube and Amazon. I guess I'll be getting the Rode Videomic Shotgun Microphone with Rycote Lyre Mount.

jdramirez · Aug 18, 2013

sdsr said:
I recently sold mine, in excellent condition and with only <20K actuations, on ebay for $1325. Weirdly, the buyer was a camera store in NY. I wonder what they did with it....

Maybe they sold it in a package with a 24-105, a cheap flash and the fleeced some tourist.

Sith Zombie · Aug 18, 2013

Kernuak said:
msmith0807 said:

Thanks for the input dr croubie. I use a local company http://www.posterjack.ca for all my printing and they seem to do a real good job. They offer a 20x30 print on glossy photo paper for $19.99. So by that logic asking for something in the $40 to $60 range would be fair.

I should really look into getting a decent quality photo printer for quality test prints, but for now i suppose this is a viable option.

Click to expand...

I think pearl or lustre would suit your image though, while glossy would kill it.

+1 I have a large format epson too and I find lustre to work well with a lot of images, especially when people have seen the image on a computer screen. Matt images can sometime seem a bit dull if your used to looking at images from a screen all day, whilst glossy can be too far the other way.
I'm not knocking the other papers at all, as different images work better with different paper types [one of my fav prints is on matt paper] but just stating lustre/semi gloss is probably going to be the safest bet for you.

bycostello · Aug 18, 2013

Grumbaki said:
The need for speed makes me shoot Av.

+1

brad-man · Aug 18, 2013

Mort said:
So a big thing to consider is the price. I can get the 24-105 for $200 less plus a $500 rebate. Is the f/2.8 really worth nearly $700 more than the f/4 of the 24-105? (By the way, I am planning on buying a 35/50/85 f/1.4/1.8 with the money saved. Prob the 85 1.8 or the Sigma 35 1.4)

Well it's up to you whether it's worth it. The 2.8 will get you better isolation/bokeh for portraits and creative purposes. It will also be much better if you are going to be doing much indoor/low light shooting with it. It is quite a bit sharper and has much better image stabilization. But it is quite a bit more money. Many of the reasons to pick the Tamron over the Canon will be mitigated by your buying those primes, so it comes down to convenience & cash.

By the way, a HUGE +1 on the Sigma 1.4. It's also big and heavy, but oh so worth it.

drjlo · Aug 18, 2013

Canon 580 EX II with Large Rogue Flashbender and diffusor cam right, small Rogue with diffusor cam left. Placing the panels closer to subject really gives off a nice light IMO..

EOSD4489 by drjlo1, on Flickr

birtembuk · Aug 17, 2013

Vossie said:
It's a nice lens butnothing spectacular. I find myself using it much less than I used the 10-22 on my previous crop body.

Got exactly the opposite experience here, leaving my 10-22 accumulating dust. I could never get those lush greens correct. CA maybe? In comparison, with my 16-35/II it's night and day. Of course you have the FF vs crop factor, but now I shoot UWA to my heart content. Even when the 14-24 surfaces, I think I'll keep it for its versatility. Added bonus, it becomes 26-56 on crop if you keep one. Terrific for street photo.

There might be some more discount as time goes, but as they say, if you need it, just buy it.

littlewildcat · Aug 17, 2013

I bought it finally. $800.

Price not bad for a UW(2009) L lens. (compared to similar item online)

I tested it thoroughly from f2.8 to f22, 24mm to 70mm. Also shoot into bright light too. Doesn't seem to have any issue. I will use for a while before sending it for repair after I have saved up enough money.

After repairing, I may be able to sell it for $800 to 900. They cost of repair will be considered the rental for this L lens.

BTW, I do lend and borrow things but if I do any damage to them, I will be responsible. lol

Don Haines · Aug 17, 2013

pedro said:
Hope this hasn't been posted before...

http://thenewcamera.com/fujifilm-and-panasonic-new-organic-sensor-coming/

Four times the dynamic range and 1.2 times the sensitivity...... and you can rest assured that this is the most favourable scenario that they could come up with.... wonder how it performs in the real world.... and on cold days...

1.2 times the sensitivity is not a very big change... and they don't say who they compared it to... was it Canon, Nikon, sony, sigma???

4 times the dynamic range is a decent improvement..... 2 stops... but you could use split pixels with a different gain on each side to get WAY more than 2 stops of gain...

I don't trust marketing departments claims....

vecihi · Aug 17, 2013

Not my luck week

For refurbish canon need an account ...When i try to create it says
"Login Information:

Our systems are currently undergoing maintenance. We apologize for any inconvenience. Please check back soon."

Don Haines · Aug 17, 2013

I think the place to start is to find out why your 50F1.8 is not sharp. Despite the price it's a very sharp lens. What's your shutter speed? What ISO are you shooting at? If you use it outside on a nice sunny day do you get sharp pictures?

Unless you figure out why you're not getting sharp pictures with your current lens, buying a new lens is probably Not going to solve your problem and just cost you money... It could be the lens or it could be that you are doing something wrong..... Lets find out before letting the credit cards loose.

brad-man · Aug 17, 2013

verysimplejason said:
40mm might be a little bit tight. 24 or 28mm might be more appropriate unless you're taking mostly people/portrait shots. Why not an EOS-M + 22mm pancake? RX100 is also nice if it's ok with you to learn another system. A S110 is also nice but it'll struggle a little bit at night. You'll have to apply more NR later if you want your pictures to be usable but definitely it's enough for most applications unless you want to print large pictures.

+1 As long as you don't require a truly "pocketable" setup, the M is a great little camera (though it does fit in my cargo pants pocket). Much smaller than a rebel with the pancake. I have an S-100 for true stealth, but I have been spoiled by the IQ of the M +22mm.

Badger · Aug 17, 2013

Not exactly specific to this topic, but related. Found this interesting.
Best Portrait lens? 85mm vs 70-200mm

Salah Yousef · Aug 17, 2013

Vossie said:
1. Yes, this is the focal length of the lens. 50mm is considered "normal" focal length as the angle of view is very "natural" to our eyes. 100mm has half the angle of view as 50mm and 25mm has double the amgle of view of 50mm. Anything wider than 50mm is referred to as wide angle, anything narrower is referred to as tele. As comparison an 8x binocular has approximately the angle of view as a 8x50=400mm lens.
2. By reading reviews. Looking at the specs of the AF motor can also give you a hint. http://www.the-digital-picture.com is a great resource for (Canon) info. Google is good as well
3. Price is dependent on the make costs of a lens and not on the focal lenght. The material use and complexity of the lens design are key factors determining lens prices. The 50mm 1.8 is made from very cheap materials. Canon has 2 more 50mm lenses that are brighter (more glass needed) and more complex and use better materials but are much more expensive (the 50 1.2 is over 1000 usd).
4. Electro-Focus. Have a look at this wiki for background: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF_lens_mount All modern Canon SLRs use this mount. (EF-S found on crop bodies is a variant of EF and compatible with EF lenses).
5. FD is the old manual focus Canon mount. You can fit old FD lenses on EF mount bodies using special adapters; Ed Mika, whomis also on this forum makes these adaptors.

Cheers.

Arigato Vossie kun! ^_^

Thank you.

hpjfromdk · Aug 17, 2013

US20130208155A1, published Aug 15th 2013, has foreign priority data JP20120030668 20120215.
The patent app entails 1 embodiment of an EF 70-200 (72-193) F4 IS and 3 embodiments of an EF200-400 (205-390) F4 IS design. The patent claims that for the inner focusing design used it is important to correctly set refractive powers in order to obtain good aberration variation reduction at all zoom settings, subject distances - in particular for near MFD focus, maintaining a good zoom ration and keeping the lens size small..

Further details here: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20130208155.pdf

thgmuffin · Aug 17, 2013

I upgraded to the 6D and unfortunately there is no onboard flash which is slightly inconvenient at times. Before I was able to use the Minolta Auto 280PX on my T2i with no problems. The 280PX requires 2V to trigger from the camera hotshoe: http://dpanswers.com/roztr/flash_show.php?id=654&pid=MIA280PX The T2i can output 6V from its hotshoe so that is why the flash would fire.

Does anyone happen to know what the 6D hotshoe can output?

Should I even be using such an old flash on my brand new camera? (EX: Something could fry :-\ )

Thanks!

Stu_bert · Aug 17, 2013

ankorwatt said:
Valvebounce said:

ankorwatt said:

Canons own 2 fab lines is not enough, the cost of one stitched MF sensor will be very high and take resources from the old sensors fab lines. Canon have a high internal cost regarding there own sensors and the sensor lines does not generate any money, other departments does

Click to expand...

Hi ankorwatt, isn't this a bit like saying VW Audi (insert alternate brand here it makes no difference) engine plant makes no money, only the body line, it's not a car without an engine, it's not a camera without a sensor?
Not trying to be facetious just asking.

Cheers Graham.

Click to expand...

well , the info I have is that that Canon is sluggish and has taken a decision that the sensor must be in the house.
Now Fujitsu are mounting together some of Canons sensors so the plates then leave the house anyway. Canon's sensor department is supported by other units, it would be better to put manufacturing at factories that have already invested in the right equipment, so do Aptina, Nikon, Omnivision and even Sony with several others.

The downside of outsourcing is that you are beholden to the manufacturing tech std at that factory. And of course trying to keep NDAs enforced is far more difficult when it's not your company.

The upside is that you have more choice / competition and can leverage that to your advantage. Plus you should negate the potential loss of margin of outsource as they should be able to do it cheaper than you based on scale.

Net result I agree, if Canon cannot invest in new equipment as quick as their competitors as they're not achieving the scale, which in itself is a vicious circle, then the only solution appears to be outsource that aspect of manufacturing to specialists....

privatebydesign · Aug 16, 2013

It will not work.

Any intelligent flash fired via a PC socket becomes a dumb flash, the only thing it can trigger is if your remotes have optical triggers either in them or attached. That is one reason Nikon flashes were so much better than Canon ones for years, many of them had optical dumb triggers, SU-4 mode, when there was a flash of light they fire.

bholliman · Aug 16, 2013

Glad to hear Canon service was able to take care of the problem!

Aug 16, 2013

sheedoe said:
I often use ISO 50 when I need to cut an extra stop of light. I understand its below the native ISO of the sensor, but I was wondering, has anyone noticed any adverse effect of using ISO 50?

Basically, when you select ISO 50, the camera is exposing at ISO 100 then digitally pulling the exposure down by one stop. There's no real benefit to ISO 50, except perhaps convenience if you're shooting in Av mode and want a stop slower shutter speed. But if a highlight would be blown at ISO 100 with a given aperture/shutter speed combo, it'll be just as blown at ISO 50.

hodor · Aug 16, 2013

well here goes my first official post on these forums...

I have a canon mark iii that came with the 24-105 which is a great all around lens. looking to add to my collection by finally investing in some more glass. I do shoot both photo and video with it. sometimes ml raw and sometimes just the internal codec when doing video.

so for the video aspect...as far as image quality goes on these 2 on par with each other? sigma cost more and get electronics with it. I have no problem spending the extra money if its a better lens. just want to get maybe a few opinions between the 2 before pulling the trigger.

also to add I've pretty much decided to get the sigma 85 1.4 for portraits (not sure if there are discounts for buying 2 at same time)

TIA

cayenne · Aug 16, 2013

sjschall said:
It would just be awkward to deal with the two files types, the large crop on the BMCC, basically two entirely different workflows. To me, if a DSLR is your A cam, another DSLR is the best B cam. If you want to go with BMCC, then go all in. Like stated before, it needs battery accessories, audio accessories, and wide, fast lenses (if EF mount) which are sometimes tricky to find.

Well, I'm no longer buying anything less than f/2.8.

Most of my stuff so far, is shooting indoors in my kitchen, and I have ample lighting...

C

lilmsmaggie · Aug 16, 2013

For as long as I can remember (and that's going back to film cameras), the filter size for any given lens is denoted on the lens barrel (usually the front element) and/or the inside surface of some lens cap. Most retailers (as well as the OEM) will have "specifications" available that will list filter size for a particular lens.

In the attached photo (although the designation is upside down) you can clearly see the filter size indicated by the diameter symbol ( Ø )

Waterloo · Aug 16, 2013

This was just posted on the Planet 5D blog: http://blog.planet5d.com/2013/08/formatt-hitech-release-the-prostop-irnd-long-exposure-filter-kit-joel-tjintjelaar-signature-series/

It might be of interest.

drjlo · Aug 16, 2013

banana joe said:
Thank you all for the tips! Very useful stuff!
I'm new to Macro photography, so I think that for now I'll take the 100mm L and the Speedlite with the Rouge small softbox kit, and in the future if I get serious I'll take the 180mm (hopefully updated), the Macro flash and the focusing rails!
Thank you all again!

That's a good plan. If you outgrow that setup, don't forget there are cheaper alternatives to getting more "serious," e.g. using extension tubes with 100L to get more than 1:1 mag, using a good non-Canon ring flash (not continuous LED "ring flash").

I have used this one with good success. Still, I'm sure there are QC variations, so I would buy from a place with hassel-free return policy.
http://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Smart-Flash-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0013XTIFG

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