Posts

Don Haines · Aug 17, 2013

I think the place to start is to find out why your 50F1.8 is not sharp. Despite the price it's a very sharp lens. What's your shutter speed? What ISO are you shooting at? If you use it outside on a nice sunny day do you get sharp pictures?

Unless you figure out why you're not getting sharp pictures with your current lens, buying a new lens is probably Not going to solve your problem and just cost you money... It could be the lens or it could be that you are doing something wrong..... Lets find out before letting the credit cards loose.

brad-man · Aug 17, 2013

verysimplejason said:
40mm might be a little bit tight. 24 or 28mm might be more appropriate unless you're taking mostly people/portrait shots. Why not an EOS-M + 22mm pancake? RX100 is also nice if it's ok with you to learn another system. A S110 is also nice but it'll struggle a little bit at night. You'll have to apply more NR later if you want your pictures to be usable but definitely it's enough for most applications unless you want to print large pictures.

+1 As long as you don't require a truly "pocketable" setup, the M is a great little camera (though it does fit in my cargo pants pocket). Much smaller than a rebel with the pancake. I have an S-100 for true stealth, but I have been spoiled by the IQ of the M +22mm.

Badger · Aug 17, 2013

Not exactly specific to this topic, but related. Found this interesting.
Best Portrait lens? 85mm vs 70-200mm

Salah Yousef · Aug 17, 2013

Vossie said:
1. Yes, this is the focal length of the lens. 50mm is considered "normal" focal length as the angle of view is very "natural" to our eyes. 100mm has half the angle of view as 50mm and 25mm has double the amgle of view of 50mm. Anything wider than 50mm is referred to as wide angle, anything narrower is referred to as tele. As comparison an 8x binocular has approximately the angle of view as a 8x50=400mm lens.
2. By reading reviews. Looking at the specs of the AF motor can also give you a hint. http://www.the-digital-picture.com is a great resource for (Canon) info. Google is good as well
3. Price is dependent on the make costs of a lens and not on the focal lenght. The material use and complexity of the lens design are key factors determining lens prices. The 50mm 1.8 is made from very cheap materials. Canon has 2 more 50mm lenses that are brighter (more glass needed) and more complex and use better materials but are much more expensive (the 50 1.2 is over 1000 usd).
4. Electro-Focus. Have a look at this wiki for background: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF_lens_mount All modern Canon SLRs use this mount. (EF-S found on crop bodies is a variant of EF and compatible with EF lenses).
5. FD is the old manual focus Canon mount. You can fit old FD lenses on EF mount bodies using special adapters; Ed Mika, whomis also on this forum makes these adaptors.

Cheers.

Arigato Vossie kun! ^_^

Thank you.

hpjfromdk · Aug 17, 2013

US20130208155A1, published Aug 15th 2013, has foreign priority data JP20120030668 20120215.
The patent app entails 1 embodiment of an EF 70-200 (72-193) F4 IS and 3 embodiments of an EF200-400 (205-390) F4 IS design. The patent claims that for the inner focusing design used it is important to correctly set refractive powers in order to obtain good aberration variation reduction at all zoom settings, subject distances - in particular for near MFD focus, maintaining a good zoom ration and keeping the lens size small..

Further details here: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20130208155.pdf

thgmuffin · Aug 17, 2013

I upgraded to the 6D and unfortunately there is no onboard flash which is slightly inconvenient at times. Before I was able to use the Minolta Auto 280PX on my T2i with no problems. The 280PX requires 2V to trigger from the camera hotshoe: http://dpanswers.com/roztr/flash_show.php?id=654&pid=MIA280PX The T2i can output 6V from its hotshoe so that is why the flash would fire.

Does anyone happen to know what the 6D hotshoe can output?

Should I even be using such an old flash on my brand new camera? (EX: Something could fry :-\ )

Thanks!

Stu_bert · Aug 17, 2013

ankorwatt said:
Valvebounce said:

ankorwatt said:

Canons own 2 fab lines is not enough, the cost of one stitched MF sensor will be very high and take resources from the old sensors fab lines. Canon have a high internal cost regarding there own sensors and the sensor lines does not generate any money, other departments does

Click to expand...

Hi ankorwatt, isn't this a bit like saying VW Audi (insert alternate brand here it makes no difference) engine plant makes no money, only the body line, it's not a car without an engine, it's not a camera without a sensor?
Not trying to be facetious just asking.

Cheers Graham.

Click to expand...

well , the info I have is that that Canon is sluggish and has taken a decision that the sensor must be in the house.
Now Fujitsu are mounting together some of Canons sensors so the plates then leave the house anyway. Canon's sensor department is supported by other units, it would be better to put manufacturing at factories that have already invested in the right equipment, so do Aptina, Nikon, Omnivision and even Sony with several others.

The downside of outsourcing is that you are beholden to the manufacturing tech std at that factory. And of course trying to keep NDAs enforced is far more difficult when it's not your company.

The upside is that you have more choice / competition and can leverage that to your advantage. Plus you should negate the potential loss of margin of outsource as they should be able to do it cheaper than you based on scale.

Net result I agree, if Canon cannot invest in new equipment as quick as their competitors as they're not achieving the scale, which in itself is a vicious circle, then the only solution appears to be outsource that aspect of manufacturing to specialists....

privatebydesign · Aug 16, 2013

It will not work.

Any intelligent flash fired via a PC socket becomes a dumb flash, the only thing it can trigger is if your remotes have optical triggers either in them or attached. That is one reason Nikon flashes were so much better than Canon ones for years, many of them had optical dumb triggers, SU-4 mode, when there was a flash of light they fire.

bholliman · Aug 16, 2013

Glad to hear Canon service was able to take care of the problem!

Aug 16, 2013

sheedoe said:
I often use ISO 50 when I need to cut an extra stop of light. I understand its below the native ISO of the sensor, but I was wondering, has anyone noticed any adverse effect of using ISO 50?

Basically, when you select ISO 50, the camera is exposing at ISO 100 then digitally pulling the exposure down by one stop. There's no real benefit to ISO 50, except perhaps convenience if you're shooting in Av mode and want a stop slower shutter speed. But if a highlight would be blown at ISO 100 with a given aperture/shutter speed combo, it'll be just as blown at ISO 50.

hodor · Aug 16, 2013

well here goes my first official post on these forums...

I have a canon mark iii that came with the 24-105 which is a great all around lens. looking to add to my collection by finally investing in some more glass. I do shoot both photo and video with it. sometimes ml raw and sometimes just the internal codec when doing video.

so for the video aspect...as far as image quality goes on these 2 on par with each other? sigma cost more and get electronics with it. I have no problem spending the extra money if its a better lens. just want to get maybe a few opinions between the 2 before pulling the trigger.

also to add I've pretty much decided to get the sigma 85 1.4 for portraits (not sure if there are discounts for buying 2 at same time)

TIA

cayenne · Aug 16, 2013

sjschall said:
It would just be awkward to deal with the two files types, the large crop on the BMCC, basically two entirely different workflows. To me, if a DSLR is your A cam, another DSLR is the best B cam. If you want to go with BMCC, then go all in. Like stated before, it needs battery accessories, audio accessories, and wide, fast lenses (if EF mount) which are sometimes tricky to find.

Well, I'm no longer buying anything less than f/2.8.

Most of my stuff so far, is shooting indoors in my kitchen, and I have ample lighting...

C

lilmsmaggie · Aug 16, 2013

For as long as I can remember (and that's going back to film cameras), the filter size for any given lens is denoted on the lens barrel (usually the front element) and/or the inside surface of some lens cap. Most retailers (as well as the OEM) will have "specifications" available that will list filter size for a particular lens.

In the attached photo (although the designation is upside down) you can clearly see the filter size indicated by the diameter symbol ( Ø )

Waterloo · Aug 16, 2013

This was just posted on the Planet 5D blog: http://blog.planet5d.com/2013/08/formatt-hitech-release-the-prostop-irnd-long-exposure-filter-kit-joel-tjintjelaar-signature-series/

It might be of interest.

drjlo · Aug 16, 2013

banana joe said:
Thank you all for the tips! Very useful stuff!
I'm new to Macro photography, so I think that for now I'll take the 100mm L and the Speedlite with the Rouge small softbox kit, and in the future if I get serious I'll take the 180mm (hopefully updated), the Macro flash and the focusing rails!
Thank you all again!

That's a good plan. If you outgrow that setup, don't forget there are cheaper alternatives to getting more "serious," e.g. using extension tubes with 100L to get more than 1:1 mag, using a good non-Canon ring flash (not continuous LED "ring flash").

I have used this one with good success. Still, I'm sure there are QC variations, so I would buy from a place with hassel-free return policy.
http://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Smart-Flash-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0013XTIFG

CTJohn · Aug 16, 2013

Aglet said:
CTJohn said:

I have not had issues between metering modes and within a same scene. It's just dark, and if indoors, off color.

Click to expand...

I haven't played much with a 6D but still find that is unexpected behavior.
Everything that I've used with that 63 zone metering sensor has provided excellent metering and AWB.

Can you compare your 6D with another, side-by-side, same lens?

No, unfortunately I don't know anyone else with a 6D. It sounds like I'm not the only one with this sort of problem from the above comments.

mackguyver · Aug 16, 2013

P.P.S. Canon 16-35 II at 16mm on 5D MkII (Hilton Orlando, FL):

vs. Sigma 12-24 II at 12mm on 5D MkII (Hilton Sandestin Beach, FL):

steliosk · Aug 16, 2013

- Is the Canon 24-70 F4 worth the price?

NO

Get the 24-105
Cheaper, longer end, sharper after 50mm (and at 24mm f/5)

barrel distortion and vignetting is correctable in ACR/LR

Never understood why canon released the 24-70 f/4 IS

The IS should go to the 24-70 2.8 which is hell expensive, and also a second version of the beloved 24-105 would be a wise upgrade if existed.

Aug 16, 2013

torger said:
I prefer clear filter rather than UV as I don't want any change to the image whatsoever

Do you shoot film? A dSLR sensor is insensitive to UV, so there's no difference between clear and UV filters.

cinema-dslr · Aug 16, 2013

i agree with BozillaNZ,

It does sound like you pulled the lens of the camera without turning the camera off first."is"doesn't like that .

Just turn off body, put on lens, turn on camera, take a picture with "is "on, turn off camera , remove lens.
Does it still rattle??

I had the same thing with my 100L is and this resolved the problem.

Alrik89 · Aug 16, 2013

Portability is not an issue, because i'm used to carry heavy stuff.
Money is the issue, and i wonder, if the 1Dii and the 1DiiN are still worth thinking about.

leGreve · Aug 16, 2013

While the Zeiss quality is unquestionable, the versatility of the Canon zooms make them indispensable in my opinion.
I'd take a manual lens of high quality for video anytime, but for photo, I'd go Canon zoom straight away.

Also, the new 16-35 2.8L II is improved a lot over the first version. Yay at sharp images!

mwh1964 · Aug 15, 2013

cnardo said:
Making a similar trip to Italy and France in October and my original plan was to take the 5D III and 2-3 lenses:

Option 1: 16-35L, 24-105L and 28-300L. (Heavy)
Option 2: 16-35L, 24-105L (light to med)
Option 3: 16-35L, 28-300L (med-heavy)
Option 4: 16-35L, Tamron 28-300 (light-med)

Any opinions out there????…especially those with experience with the new Tamron 28-300 FF lens on a 5D III (my purchase is still in the mail).

I plan to be taking typical tourist shots. I will also have my EOS M with kit & 22mm lens in my pocket

If taking all the heavy stuff plus EOS M I think you will be using the latter quite a lot. I would take the 24-105 plus the EOS M unless you are absolutely sure you will need longer reach. Enjoy the trip.

jdramirez · Aug 15, 2013

To sum up the story and consequently provide closure... I went onto ebay... found a RAY Flash (which would fit my 580ex ii and 5D mkiii) being sold for $100 or $90 and I made an offer for $55 including shipping. It was refused and a counter offer of $80 was made. I said no. Meh... zero net sum gain...

I then waited 2 more days and and about an hour or two before the buy it now auction ends, I offer $65 and it is accepted. So I'll wait patiently for the mail to arrive and I am guessing I will have it on Monday since the seller is only about 2 hours away from me.

It's crazy... in the last week I have spent $25 on a Rogue Flashbender, $65 on a Ray Flash, $12 on a umbrella mount bracket, $4 on an umbrella, $80 on Yongnuo's YN622 ettl flash triggers.

And I hate shooting with flash... so I must have lost my mind.

Digbydriver · Aug 15, 2013

Just bought it. Could not resist, considering the price at BH and Amaz. Just what I wanted and a great price. USA warranty, new lens. Canon Rumors had it listed at a much higher price, when I checked it out, it was even lower! Gone for now.
Will go well with my 1D.

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