Dylan777 said:

I got my 5D III from 1st patch...and it starts from 99. I'm guessing your had 1300clicks on it - that is nothing if you got some great discount from your dealer.

FoCal also shows shutter count after you run AFMA.

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Thanks @Dylan777 - I do have a license for FoCal Pro - and have done AFMA - so I had forgotten that it also shows the shutter count!

Regarding the discount - I got a 5D3 and 24-70LII for a great price at the time (a month ago) - now the market forces are making the difference reduce - BUT - I love the combo and from my point of view, the price you pay is like what you pay for a car - the value is in the use you get from it!

Cheers

aaronh said:

I asked him about some of the more serious high-tech they must use (he works for Homeland Security) and they do have all that stuff. He just needed something small and simple to keep with him for when he was out doing whatever it is he does. He said he mostly needs it for taking pictures of license plates and stuff like that.

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If that's the case, I would have suggested the Panasonic FZ200 for compactness (smaller than a DSLR+lens) and versatility (25-600mm f/2.8 lens). Although the AF speed would likely have disappointed and resulted in lost photo opportunities (and it would be pretty worthless in the dark).

Its always possible that it was accidentally deleted. Patents are public publications.

http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/12/eos-m-with-viewfinder-coming-late-2013-cr/ This post seems to refer to it with a dead link.

tbisu said:

Anyone have an personal experience to report about this lens? We're in the market for a good 35mm and am wondering if this is a good choice over Canon's 35 1.4L. Lots of reports about how shart it is, but I'm more curious about the focus accuracy - anyone have information about the AF performance?

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Af performance is very good. Just as fast as the Canon. It uses Sigmas high speed motor too so everything has been very good. This review pointed out something interesting with the focusing though vs the Canon. The throw for the focus in the Sigma is shorter than the Canon so it creates an interesting illusion that was pointed out in depth in this video:
http://learningcameras.com/reviews/7-lenses/87-sigma-35mm-f14-vs-canon-35mm-f14

Enjoy that zeiss 15mm, Its the greatest UW ever-made.

Dylan777 said:

PavelR said:

Yes, I'm comparing because OP asking to compare primes vs zooms and I choose primes 98% of the time.
I do not usually shoot architecture, thus I can use "feet zoom" and pick up 85,200 anytime against 24-70 + 70-200.
I tested new 24-70 taking several shots and difference between 2.8 and 3.5 was clearly seen on the camera display...
So, there is no FF AF prime wider than 85 matching the IQ 85+ (only TS24II w/o AF), thus I use 85+ 98% of the time...

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Everyone can say my lens is SUPER sharp at bla-bla-bla....it's difficult to debate when there no hard facts included.

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I do not need to convince anybody to use any lens, I'm only saying what I found out and what I use the most...
You can try yourself and if you do not see the difference, you will be happy - carrying less weight and keep zoom versatility...
BTW: http://the-digital-picture.com/ database of the lenses is pretty good - I usually compare the IQ here before buying lens and than my test shots confirm almost all the time match the conclusion I did online. (DB is correct at least for Canon and Sigma, some Nikkor lenses I own are better than seen there...)

Do you miss APS-C?

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No, but I miss high pixel density FF, like 4.3µm (46mp).

neuroanatomist said:

Drizzt321 said:

frozengogo said:

Is it like freeway numbers? Take the 55 to the 5 to the 10 the 15 to the 395 or take CA55 to I5 to I10 to I15 to US395. :-X

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You left out the 405 to the 101 to the 170 to the 118 to the 210

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Won't you get hip to this timely tip
When you make that Photography trip
A-get your kicks on efff five-point-six

--Nat King Cole (well...sort of )

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I was hearing Depeche Mode...

I presume you are driving around Ireland rather than treking. The 70-200mm is a great landscape lens. As there alot of Islands dotted around the coast the extra length can also be very useful. The weight is definately the disadvantage. As to the weather the winters have been getting drier and colder and the summer's wetter. Hopefully you will get good weather because Sunrise and Sunset are at very good times.
Locations I could recommend are
Dingle Peninsula (especially out to Slea Head to see the Blasket Islands)
Beara Peninsula (Castletownbere to Ahillies)
Sheep's Head
Mizen Head (amazing walk to the lighthouse - I'm not 100% sure if it's open in winter -check on line)
Iconic Cliffs of Moher
Ring of Kerry
Come to Blarney Castle and Gardens (you can kiss the Blarney Stone while you are at it).
This is a look out to the Blasket Islands
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fergalocallaghan/8080855621/#in/photostream

Enjoy your trip - if you can avoid rain you will get some amazing shots.
I've travelled all over the world and still the west coast of Ireland takes my breath away.

Kind Regards
Fergal

I'm just wondering if a lack of correction data for some lenses in Canon DPP DLO module is not a hint at their life cycle and expected upgrades/end of life announcements. I'm observing what they add to the list of provided lenses and was wondering why 70-200 2.8 (NON IS) was missing all the time. After the rumor, that Canon is about to end this lenses life, I think it might be connected somehow with their absence in the DLO module - they didn't include it because they krew that it's end of life of this lens anyway.

Canon has added some new lenses to the list in DLO, has even addded 1.4 and 2.0 teleconverters variations with some of them, but 70-200 2.8 was still missing.

If this is about to be true, then popular EF 135L 2.0, 50 1.8, 85 1.8, 100 2.8 Macro (non IS non L) and 300 F/4 L IS are missing as well so does it mean, that they are on their upgrade path?

RLPhoto said:

Its Discussing View-finder focusing screens and its true, the 5D3 isn't accurate faster than F/2.8. On my 5Dc, With the Eg-s Screen, I could clearly see my DOF all the way down to F/1.2, It was fantastic.

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yep and the brightscreen is a whole world better than the EG-S only downside of the EG-S was the VF was quite dark with an f4 lens on but it was great with f2.8 and faster

Put in the same shoes, I'd rather get a 17-40 F4L. You need a UWA if you're taking a lot of landscapes. The 50mm can serve as your walk-around lens (or you may replace it with the 40mm pancake or 50mm F1.4 if you want). You've already got the 70-200 as your tele. 24-105 will just be redundant.

Ray2021 said:

Axilrod said:

Seriously dude, what's the deal with the polls? I don't think people are going to be too happy with you cluttering up this board with impossible polls.

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+1. Agree with Axilrod. I count 4 polls from you in one day...You need a hobby.

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he's preparing for the release of SJTMark, finally a quantitative tool to rate CR members in the all-important statistic of polls per hour.

eninja said:

Yeah, both of you were right and also the manual, I was coming from G12 and I also don't blame myself, all other button works as when you press them first time.

I still don't get the point why you need to initially press shutter before being able to select AF.
Maybe software optimization issue, because multi-controller is also used navigating menu.

Thanks.

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I'm guessing it's to prevent the camera entering an active viewfinder display state (and burning power) if the button was pressed by mistake. While it's not a big deal, it would be nice to turn that "feature" off - and have the D-pad just wake up the camera.

I would buy a 50L II but the FF mirrorless is also very tempting. I still wouldn't buy a first gen electronic product though.

RLPhoto said:

Dylan777 said:

RLPhoto said:

It's sharp enough for portraits in the center for me. I love the look.

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Have you run your 50L through FoCal with your 5D III bodies? I just wonder what other owners are getting from their 50L????????????????

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I don't even own FoCal, or any focus calibration software. Infact, I haven't AFMA'ed any of my lenses. They all have been flawless from the factory. ( Fingers crossed .)

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Wow....you must be very lucky man, a f1.2 lens without AFMA.

Before AFMA, I did a quick test by setting up 4 markers. The distance between each of these markers is about 1.5" back. As you can see the lens has focus shift issue. I was focus on 1st marker(red). You can see the red is not in focus, the green does. That focus shift is gone after AFMA.

For now...it's all about sharpness.

Edit: back focus issue

I passed his bio onto a photo friend in Banff and she said she knew exactly where he was standing for one of his shots! Great work.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-6D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx

"I can focus the 6D's center point on a subject with reasonable contrast down until autoexposure gives me a setting of 160 at 10 seconds and f/2.8 (really dark) with the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L II USM Lens mounted (note that the 6D's metering range spec is listed at EV 1-20). The Canon EOS 1D X's center point could not focus on the same subject with the same lens mounted. Note that the 6D focuses very slowly under these dismal lighting conditions - but locking slowly is far better than failing to lock.

I'm having very good success with the Canon EOS 6D's center AF point. And this is again the AF point I am using most frequently on this camera. It properly and accurately locks onto subjects as I would expect. "

Whit said:

Mr Bean said:

Nice work

I've started doing a similar thing with my 5D mk3. The last attempt of mine, taking 325 images over 4 hours ended up with heavy dew after image 24 :'(

What lens did you use?

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I was worried about fogging up, but I got lucky. I think the combination of a cold camera (matching the temp outside), and the wind bowing around the lens kept it clean. I was shooting on the 24mm 1.4 II, which is one of my favorite lenses

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Oh, I love that lens. I'm hoping to get one sometime, but I've got a 24-70 (looking at the Tamron, I'm pretty impressed so far), 70-200 2.8 IS v2 to acquire first. Then I can start going after the lovely, lovely primes

mirror lockup? holy cow.

Well, if when i typed " also, i don't think this is the problem here", people thought i was saying this is what i think your problem is, i really don't know how to fix that.
as for the flash duration topic i mentioned, my studio strobes ARE slower than 1/500th under some conditions. that is one head, at higher power settings. many are.

I've posted before about my love of crappy flash synch speeds, and again, i know all about it, and why they suck. Nobody seems to understand how i don't care about all that, i'm 100% certain some clever guys could make it happen. hell, i've got a fairly good idea for a work around, but i haven't the time.

anyone care to argue with my recommendations for the OP?

BTW- with an alienbees trigger/receiver combo i could net 1/400th with a speedlight set on full tilt with my 1dmk2.
yes, i know it's aps-h, just saying.

Certain types of lights can also introduce those scan lines even if you are using the right shutter speed. I've seen it happen here and there with christmas lights in dark situations.

Impossible poll again... vague blanket statements that depend on a case by case comparisons.

I scored a clean used 200L f2.8 for under $500, so looking forward to giving it a whirl (and keeping the 100L). If fixed length turns out to be too much hassle, I guess I'll sell the 100 and 200 and get a 70-200 IS II.

Can this camera sync w/flash at 1/2000th or 1/4000th?