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deleteme · Aug 13, 2013

The problem with photo enthusiasts analyzing these numbers is that they bring their narrow views about their hobby to the issue.

The reason that compact camera sales have fallen is that phones are the camera of choice for the enormous market that is the casual user.
They do not care about any of the issues that the hobbyist cares about. They want the photo to "come out". And they do on even the most rudimentary phones. The phone is their display and their album. More than that might be nice but not worth spending anything for. Their stuff already looks good on FB so why bother?

The real concern is the evolution of the higher end products that enthusiasts and pros DO buy. Canon has already shown us their pro-active strategy on this front in the form of the higher prices on new lenses and other accessories. They are already pricing for the low volume market they see developing.

That is why their profits are not dropping precipitously while sales of small cameras are.

bchernicoff · Aug 13, 2013

It is risky, but for some people saving 30% will make it worth it.
I posted it, so people were at least aware of this option.

rs · Aug 13, 2013

[quote author="The Digital Picture"]
This lens is also compatible with the Sigma 1.4x EX DG APO Teleconverter and the Sigma 2x EX DG APO Teleconverter. The teleconverters will make a more significant difference in magnification at the lens' native MFD.[/quote]
I'd personally go for the 1.4x TC myself if 280-300mm is what's required. You'll get 280mm with the TC, and cropping that small amount is better than the results you'll get with a 2x TC fitted. You'll also get f4 as an option with the 1.4x TC, whereas f5.6 is wide open when using the 2x. Here are both combos, both at f5.6:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=806&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=5&API=3&LensComp=806&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=6&APIComp=2

wayno · Aug 13, 2013

I dropped mine four feet onto brick paving and it's still perfectly fine. Go figure!

jasonsim · Aug 13, 2013

fatshark said:
Jasonism - how does the 70-200 v2 + 1.4TC impact focus speed while shooting skating? My 70-200v1 +2x is nearly useless in that environment.

Well, hard to say since I've only shot ice skating with the bare 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II. But given my experience with both the 300mm f/4L IS and 100-400mm L IS, their focus speed pales when compared to the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II + 1.4x III.

70-200mm II bare:

With the 5D3 + 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II + 2x, I had no trouble capturing birds in flight. So I don't think you will have trouble using it with the 1.4x III.

5d3 with 70-200L II + 2x III:

Hope this helps with you decision.

--Jason

Vossie · Aug 12, 2013

I pulled the trigger and ordered a 135L as well. Got it today. Looking forward to the weekend now to give it a good workout!

Northstar · Aug 12, 2013

acoll123 said:
Northstar said:

I've read that the AF speed is good, but not as good as the big primes....which has me questioning weather I want this lens for shooting sports/action....any thoughts?

Click to expand...

I got it for sports primarily. I am shooting HS football this thursday, so I will find out. I will use it on a 1DX so I don't think the loss of a stop (from 2.8 on my old 400) will be much of an issue, but I expect to get a lot more usable shots from the zoom. I think the difference in focus speed is on par with my old 400. I am sure the difference between it and the new super teles is only milliseconds and wouldn't be noticeable.

I would like to read your opinion after you shoot your game on thurs. Bryan at TDP has gone on record as saying is the AF performance isslightly less than the big whites....so I'm curious.

tron · Aug 12, 2013

RLPhoto said:
If zeiss made AF lenses for canon, I'd probably not own any canon glass.

I think that Sony/Zeiss 135mm 1.8 has something to do with this :

;D

schill · Aug 12, 2013

Pi said:
Another point I made: you can play with DOF calculators all day but nothing replaces actual experience. Pushing the boundaries is fun and educational. A picture is worth ... well, more than a number in a DOF calculator.

I think the line about experience ties in with how I think about lenses on a crop camera. I shoot with a 7D now and have been using a crop body for all of my digital "life" (starting with a D60). Before that, I shot film.

When I select a lens now, I never think in terms of "what is the crop equivalent of the FF lens that I want to use?" I select a lens based on my experience with lenses on a crop camera. I know what I'll get at 200mm or 300mm. I know the effects I'll see for f/2.8 or f/4, or f/8 or anything else for that matter.

Unless you are switching back and forth between ff and crop bodies and really find you need to think in terms of what you see with one on the other, I think it's mostly a non-issue. I know what a 70-200/2.8 is going to give me on my 7D.

This weekend, I shot with a 5DIII. This is the first time I've used a ff body since I put down my Elan II E for the D60. I never used the 70-200/2.8 with the Elan II E but it wasn't confusing at all. I didn't have to think about what it would show relative to the 7D. But, I did know that in familiar situations it would help to add a 1.4x teleconverter to get the reach.

Once you are actually shooting, the whole idea of equivalence and crop vs. ff lenses becomes a lot less important. A lens is a lens and a little experience makes everything pretty simple.

CanonCurious · Aug 12, 2013

I'm a newb to the forums so please be nice. I searched a bunch of times before posting this but could not find a thread with anything specific. If I missed it, please direct me.

While there were mentions of using the C300 for timelapse, I did not find anything of someone saying they have actually shot timelapse with that body, let alone sample videos, etc.

I know there are lots of timelapse shooters here. Has anyone used the C300 in that way? Samples? Workflow and IQ thoughts?

Thanks!

lol · Aug 12, 2013

Err 30 is supposed to indicate something related to the shutter. If you used it much maybe it is on the way out?

TulseLuper · Aug 12, 2013

I have a 6D and use the Zeiss 50/2 Makro lens most of the time. I also have the 40mm pancake. In addition to the stock screen, I have the Eg-S super precision and the Ec-A microprism screen with grid from focusingscreen.com.

Both the Ec-A and Eg-S are a huge improvement over the standard screen for manual focus. I also use a Voigtlander 20/3.5 MF lens, and the Eg-S doesn't darken enough to bother me, despite the f/3.5 max aperture. There's really no reason to use the stock screen unless you intend to use f/4 lenses a lot.

The Ec-A screen requires a finicky installation process - mine wasn't aligned properly by default, so they include stickers to adjust alignment. It took about 20 minutes total, but you only have to do that once.

I'm not sure whether I prefer the Eg-S or Ec-A. The Eg-S seems like a better screen all around, and it gives a better indication of DOF, but I really appreciate the additional confidence that the Ec-A microprism provides in the center (plus, it has a really good, unobtrusive grid). If you typically focus in the center and recompose I think the Ec-A is significantly better than the Eg-S, but if you want to know if your subject on the side of the frame will be in focus you'll be better off with the Eg-S. The Eg-S is significantly cheaper, so there's also that. But if you're roots are in film and manual focus, you'll love having that microprism.

Hope that helps.

Viggo · Aug 12, 2013

agierke said:
calibration depends on the model of the meter.

i have the sekonic L508 and to calibrate it i have to hit both ISO buttons at the same time (it has two to keep track of different film stocks or to quickly figure out polaroid vs film exposure). once both buttons are depressed the screen shows the exposure compensation scale and i can dial in the exposure by 1/10th of a stop.

i used to have it calibrated using polaroids to figure out what a decent exposure was. you could use your camera to spot meter a grey card and use that for calibration or you could just shoot a picture in good light, adjust camera settings until you like the exposure, and then adjust your meter based on how far off its readings are.

you will have to refer to your manual on how to do it on your meter though.

Thanks! I found a great explanation on the internets, seems legit

tron · Aug 12, 2013

GuyF said:
I'm going to be ordering a 500mm mk2 in the next week or so and in all likelihood will be getting a grey market one as I'll save £1000 on the UK price. If Canon want to play the global market game then so should we. As Canon no longer do international warranties (I wonder why?!?) I spoke to Canon customer services today about what happens if the lens dies in the first year. They told me if the lens went faulty I'd have to return it to a service centre in the territory it was intended for or get it repaired locally and reclaim the costs from Canon in the intended market i.e. Japan in this instance. So even if I bought European-market gear and it went faulty on a trip to, say, Brazil, I couldn't get it repaired in Brazil without forking out for the repair there and then. Customer care? Not once Canon HQ have your money it seems.

Anyway, I'm not here to question Canon's approach to their customers (although I did) but wondered if any of you have access to a table of failure rates for their lenses (or bodies for that matter). I wouldn't expect a lens to fail in the first year but clearly it's possible. Is the percentage failure rate evenly spread throughout their product range or are there specific items that are notorious among service centres?

Essentially I'm trying to convince myself the grey import option is worth doing especially when looking at the savings.

Just tell me to quit whining and buy the damn thing.

Quit whining and buy the damn thing ;D

I bought this lens gray from UK since I saved about 2000 Euros!. Plus they had it available!
I know that if (and that's a big IF) I have a problem I will have to ship it to them.
But 2000 euros save is a lot for an amateur who uses this lens occasionally!

Actually, if I waited for a month I would save another 500 euros but:
1. I cannot predict the future.
2. I got it when I NEEDED it! Lens arrived Friday and I needed to use it the weekend to get the supermoon behind an ancient temple from a long distance. I failed on Saturday due to wrong position selection but I succeeded on Sunday (full moon day) so no regrets here.

P.S It came with latest firmware (1.1.1)

aswald · Aug 12, 2013

I used them alongside original batteries for the G9 and 5D. I bought 4 for each camera.

After 2 years of moderate use, they don't hold their charge very well but the originals are still going strong (about 75% of original performance). Even when new, the capacity seems to lose out to the originals despite almost doubling of their discharge rating.

Very well made batteries, no overheating, bulging or short circuiting, etc. In fact the feel is better than the originals. Solid and heavier with excellent gold plated contact which lasted.

They are about the best 3rd party batteries I've ever used. The rest I've tried just dies unpredictably.

AudioGlenn · Aug 11, 2013

This is funny. (no offense to the op, I just mean that I share your grief).

We went to WPPI in Vegas with my core team (5 of us at the time) and asked someone to take our picture. Everything was set up beforehand. You would think that at a convention for wedding photographers, that we would be able to find a photographer competent enough to take the shot with proper leading lines, composition, etc.... HA no chance. We eventually found someone who was nice enough/interested enough to have a mini lesson on composition from our lead guy and we got our shot.

The point is, what was obvious to all of us as photographers was not clear to any other photographers at this convention FULL of photogs. I'd lower my expectations to avoid the frustration but be open to guiding someone through to get the shot you want. I also wouldn't expect that because someone is carrying a dSLR that they know how to use it.

Again, I feel your pain.

jdramirez · Aug 11, 2013

terminatahx said:
The 7D is an excellent body for the price, but based on limitations you've experienced with your current body, the 5DIII is the clear choice. The only downside being the and fps slightly slower than the 7d.

I'm guessing you meant to say being the "MONEY".

I want a Porsche Cayanne... but I guess I have to settle for a Honda Pilot. But the Cayanne is the perfect car for me, except that I can't afford my house.

RAKAMRAK · Aug 11, 2013

Thank you Mr. Neuro. Thank you very much.

Northstar · Aug 11, 2013

Your shots are nice, but i would like to see more "faces and emotions" to go along with some of the beautiful scenic shots you've shown....the famous Muhammed Ali / Sonny Liston shot comes to mind as an historic example.

If you google search the "best sport images of all time" you'll find that roughly 1/2 of them are shots showing emotion of some type.

that would be my critique of your photos....very nice scenery, but not enough emotions/expressions/faces.

good luck.

Northstar · Aug 11, 2013

nice shots, I like the shot of Paddy!

gordonbb · Aug 11, 2013

Mt Spokane Photography said:
How can we help you? A 5 year old lens fails. Get it fixed or buy a new one.

Sorry, thought it was fairly clear from my post that I was going to get it repaired. Not deriving my income from photography and thus not using my gear as much as other users of L lenses might I was surprised that the lens had failed with what appears to be an intermittent electrical fault after, I would guess, about 10 - 20,000 exposures.

What I am wondering is if others have had similar issues with the 24-105?

I am not going to use a third party to repair the lens nor do I intend to attempt any repair myself. I know that with the lens retailing for $700 or so these days dropping $300 on a repair leaves little residual value in the lens for resale.

Kernuak · Aug 11, 2013

Another shoot I did on Friday evening at an exclusive location oipened up for us.

Dreaming by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Playing with Hair by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

The Orangery by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Under the Arch by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

mrsfotografie · Aug 11, 2013

Sporgon said:
mrsfotografie said:

Thanks all, had a great day photographing 'living statues' with fill flash. Alrhough it felt a little bit confusing at times I'm pretty happy with some of the results Here's a sample:

Click to expand...

Well I think in your original post you said you wanted a straight forward technique to give a natural light.

I couldn't tell you've used fill in flash in that picture !

Sporgon, thanks! Exactly the type of result I was looking for; flash without it being obvious. I even wrote your simple guidelines on a sticky note as a reminder. I ended up shooting most of my pictures in Tv because light conditions were varying too much (clouds, sunshine) to shoot fully manual. I did use the camera in fast flash sync as well. I'm really happy and think I've reached a milestone today (but still have much to learn).

mrsfotografie · Aug 11, 2013

DARSON said:
I finally got it but it was quite a challenge to catch the best shot.
I was shooting with all 3 lenses but at the end 70-200mm F2.8 IS L USM was the winner.
Thank to all for input

Cool! We're curious about the result

chauncey · Aug 11, 2013

I can see how using a bellows system could be used for macro work in the studio but...would be cumbersome in the field though.
That 35% decrease in lens sizes, I suppose could be made up by cropping your image...those Zeiss 500 mm lenses...are they mirror lenses?

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