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tazdog · Aug 11, 2013

Thanks for the reply's folks

brad-man · Aug 11, 2013

I'd be interested to know how Sony's licensing agreements for their sensors (particularly exmor) are structured. Do they simply sell their sensors to other companies to do with as they wish? Or does Sony have control over what "types" of cameras their sensors are used in by other manufacturers. If the latter, then Sony could dominate the FF mirrorless market for some time to come. The only competition being a $6000 Leica shouldn't be much of a problem.

notapro · Aug 11, 2013

I have had positive experience with Rogue flash gels.

http://www.expoimaging.com/product-detail.php?cat_id=13&product_id=25&keywords=Rogue_Flash_Gels_-_Combination_Kits

The "gel band" is easy to use and manage. Seems to be a viable option for flash units, Canon or otherwise.

mycanonphotos · Aug 10, 2013

The 100-400 is already a killer Lens. Some individuals don't understand the requirements in engineering for such a design of a straight f4 and of course the R&D behind it.. If Canon can robustly improve its IQ, and IS then it's a solid improvement much like the 70-200 IS II. If Canon takes it a step further and can improve its breathing by making it a twist zoom (WOW).. I rather enjoy the push pull but on the other hand HATE the breathing it has during zooming in and out. It has a rather nice Bokeh at 5.6 throughout its zoom range so I'm not worried about it being a f2.8 for any extra... having the 100-400 with its capability to drop it on an APS-C for extended range or putting an extender on it for full frame is paramount for long range wildlife and sports work. O ya, I'd appreciate it if they could improve the hood mount as well. When Canon comes out with the new 100-400 I'll buy it hands down regardless of what they do to it...( as long as it has a better IQ)

dgatwood · Aug 10, 2013

mrsfotografie said:
Two focal lengths aimed at the same target???

That would be my guess as well. One camera probably triggers the other one so that every close-up shot is paired with a bit longer shot just in case the cropping on the close-up isn't quite ideal.

winglet · Aug 10, 2013

This whole discussion makes me happy, just to hear lenses described in terms other than their sheer ability to render sharpness or based on some DxO lab test. Makes me feel like the "character" of a specific lens might actually still matter!

The 50 f1.2 is one my favourite lenses, it's become my walk-around favourite even more than the 24-70 in that it forces the "sneaker-zoom" and more thought for composition. Wide-open takes some practice, but the effort is well worth it. The lens itself has been around long enough that it's profile is well-known and easily corrected in post with Lightroom or Optics Pro if you're into that sort of thing.

But I just love the pop this lens gives. If you can get a deal on one I'd say go for it, as the only real downside is cost.

AlanF · Aug 10, 2013

Very, very fast and accurate. Apart from the modern feedback loop technology employed in the newest lenses, the wider the aperture the more the light that is used for processing and the greater the sensitivity. Remember, your lens focusses at its widest aperture when stopped down.

hrjoe · Aug 10, 2013

Dylan777 said:
Thanks kaihp

Last 10yrs, I travel to China 3-5 times a year. I'm well aware of Chinese holidays. That's why we hoping to get the build schedule beginning of 2nd week of Sep.

This year, the mid-autumn festival takes place from September 19th to 21th.
--> Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival Dates

David Hull · Aug 10, 2013

LetTheRightLensIn said:
David Hull said:

Aglet said:

David Hull said:

The noise has never bothered me in these things it has always been the banding.

Click to expand...

EXACTLY
I'd have kept my 5d2 and 7d if it were not for the plaid/stripes.
FWIW, the 5d2 felt pretty crude in some ways anyway so I certainly don't miss it as much as the 7d.

I'm also interested in seeing whether the outer area of the 70d sensor that is NOT dual-sensel equipped will provide a slightly different noise pattern than the main area.
I can sometimes make out the crop area of my d800's sensor IF I do things just right and push it really hard from a dark frame shot; and that's not as much of a structural difference as dual vs single sensels.

I'll do a lens cap shot as soon as I can get my hands on a 70d. I'd like to see how much better it may be than my 60d in terms of FPN.

Click to expand...

A lens cap shot would be good to see. I think that is the best way to see what is really lurking down there.

They must be doing something different in this sensor because all of the sudden they are able to read out 40MP at 7 FPS in this thing while the best they seemed to be able to do with the 5DIII was 22 MP at 6 FPS which is almost 2x the processing speed still using the so-called DiGiC 5+. Maybe in the process of doing that whey also cleaned up the FPN somewhat.

There has always been confusion on the forums and the threads with regard to the DxO measurements and some of the so-called “comparison tests” that people love to show. The DxO result is really showing random noise effects but the thing that shows up so strongly in the ad-hoc demos is really the pattern noise.

I find that the 5DIII is a significant improvement over the 5DII and supposedly the 6D is even better so perhaps they have finally figured out how to read out the sensor nicely.

It will make the threads a lot more fun for a while anyway ;-)

Click to expand...

Well the 5D3 solved the pattern banding at low ISO in ONE direction but it still has oooodles of it the other direction so IMO it does no better in that regard than the 5D2, hatched or striped it still sticks out to the eye.

Now the 6D did do better more like back to the old 1D3/40D days.

It seems that the 70D MAY, still no full black frame so it's hard to be sure, also the test pre-production cameras have often had much better banding than release cameras, bit it seems it may have fixed the banding and clumping problems so that the low ISO shadow noise now has the nice character of Exmor more or less.

However, at least going by the masked area, the regular fine grained shadow noise is actually maybe a trace worse than the 7D if anything.

So on engineering DR it seems they have still made zero progress, most likely. But at least they may have finally fully solved the low ISO banding issues so you will at least be able, most likely, to get the most out of the shadow SNR that they do provide you with (although it seem still maybe 2+ stops behind Exmor for that). It may be all but entirely free of pattern banding and chroma and luma blobbing. But still quite noisy for the fine pattern noise. Anyway it might be a lot, lot nicer to deal with than most canon cameras other than the 1Ds3 and 6D and 1Dx and a decent deal nicer to deal with than those and like Exmor in that regard. But again the StdDev of the random black frame noise appeared to be very old school again.

The 5D3 did seem to improve high ISO banding of all types over the 5D2.

The striped pattern noise is pretty easy to deal with using available noise reduction tools which represents an improvement as far as I am concerned.

epsiloneri · Aug 10, 2013

Thanks! Indeed, my lens copy doesn't seem worse than anyone else's with regard to coma, and the Samyang 24/1.4 appears to be the significantly better option for stellar landscapes.

kaihp · Aug 10, 2013

Ah, OK.... SNAFU in other words. Just a pity that they didn't write this in the effing manual.

Thanks for the clarification.

MarkusXXX · Aug 10, 2013

Frodo said:
I would have thought that the reflectiveness of the digital sensor would have led to a technical workaround. Indeed, would you even need to measure light reflected off the sensor, rather than measure flash directly from the sensor?

If you read the sensor, then you've taken the picture. Maybe there could be special pixels that can be read independently but if there are only a few there would be aliasing problems and with many of them the image quality would suffer.

michi · Aug 10, 2013

So did I.

Mt Spokane Photography · Aug 9, 2013

I presume you have a 67mm thread on yours??

A set of step up / down rings should be cheap, I keep a full set of photodiox step up and step down rings. They come in very handy when I need to adapt something. You can use just one or stack several to get to the size you need. It just takes one to go from 67-72mm.

Just be sure to get a filter wrench.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepping-Adapter-49-82mm-82-49mm-DC147/dp/B008H430NU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376096525&sr=8-1&keywords=step+up+rings

Mt Spokane Photography · Aug 9, 2013

It is often different in different cameras. There are different sensors and different processors. In addition, its something that is calibrated in each camera, and just like autofocus, it can be off.
Realistically, even the best metering systems can easily be fooled, so exposure compensation is commonly needed. Its the same for my Canon 5D MK III or my Nikon D800, easy to fool the exposure sensor.

The 1D X, for example has the ability to use colors.
Here is some info from a Canon Expert about the subject.
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/1dx_rgb_meter_article.shtml

dmosier · Aug 9, 2013

bvukich said:
Side note/question... Has anyone had any experience with the cine and non-cine versions of the same lens? They're optically identical, but is there any build quality improvement on the cine version?

I'm looking at the 14/2.8 and the extra cost for the cine version would be worth it for a focus ring that isn't sloppy.

Not used the two versions of the same lenses, but I've used the 85mm next to non-cine photo lenses and it is a world of difference in ease of use. We have a 35mm lens at work that has the tiniest lens throw I've ever seen. I'm talking half inch turn that changes focal plan 10 feet. Pulling focus with that thing is a pain.

But the 85 is a beauty to use.

suburbia · Aug 9, 2013

Any image file corruption is always going to be down to an error during data transfer. I had a load of RAW files corrupted in the same way when moving data to a new RAID array via a cheap RAID controller.

bholliman · Aug 9, 2013

If this will be your first DSLR, I agree with those who have suggested buying a refurbished or used Rebel T2i/ T3i/T4i or 50D/60D. The T5i especially is over priced compared with the almost identical T4i.

Personally, I would prefer a 50 or 60D due to their larger, brighter pentaprism viewfinders and better control layout. But, the Rebels have advantages as well. I suggest going to a local camera store or Best Buy and handling these and other DSLR's to see how you like the weight and handling.

Starting out with a refurbished or used camera is a great way to learn photography. After a year or so you can upgrade to a newer, more capable camera if you feel you need to or continue on with what you have. I think its always more important to spend money on quality lenses instead of camera bodies. Lenses hold their value and will be usable for decades. Camera bodies become obsolete pretty quickly as new technologies are developed.

J.R. · Aug 9, 2013

paul13walnut5 said:
J.R. said:

this was one of the reasons I chose the Lowepro Flipside - it opens only on the side which goes against my back. So as long as I'm wearing the backpack, there is no risk that someone will be able to open it.

Click to expand...

Except with a razor knife.

Correct ... but the flipsides do act as a safety feature in a rudimentary sort of a way though.

However, if things have gone so far that I'm confronted with someone with a razor knife, I would probably be wise to meekly hand over my gear - a bag, howsoever safe, won't make a difference.

Aug 9, 2013

ahab1372 said:
I don't think you can do it more accurately manually

Agreed that using a yard stick will certainly not be more accurate, and a commercial tool like LensAlign will be as accurate...as best.

For my 1D X, I don't do the tethered MSC mode for FoCal. Instead, I just capture images of the target manually, load and them into FoCal for manual analysis. I do oversample - two shots at each even value from |20| to |12|, then three shots at every value from -10 to +10, for a total of 83 shots. I get great curve fits, and the optimal value is visually evident.

fstoparmy · Aug 9, 2013

Not your traditional landscapes, but here is a few images taken from my 550D and my 18-200mm lens (as I am showing what can be done with basic entry level gear). The 2nd and third image are straight out of camera, no post processing.

5 by Fstop Army, on Flickr

3 by Fstop Army, on Flickr

2 by Fstop Army, on Flickr

Ive gone through this forum for a while now and have noticed some xlnt and brillant landscape photos. Just posting this out there (incase anyone else is interested in sharing or entering).

http://youtu.be/4Xn_QJDqOoM

rpt · Aug 8, 2013

Forgetting to insert the cardboard tab from a box of the film I used for my AE-1 that had the ISO/Din number on it. Well I seemed to be inadvertently turning the ISO knob and as the film usually stayed in the camera for a looooong time, I'd forget what ISO film I bought. So getting back to the "right" ISO was sometimes a hit or miss...

silvestography · Aug 8, 2013

Seems to me like we're not far off from a line of 24-70's similar to the 70-200's. I wouldn't be surprised if there ends up being variants in combinations of f/2.8 and f/4 with and without IS.

Mt Spokane Photography · Aug 8, 2013

Nikon sales are hurting, everyones P&S sales have tanked. DSLR sales are a bright spot.

Personally, I don't like the idea of buying into two lens systems, one for small bodies and another for DSLR's. Canon has felt the same way, and is really pushing sales of the SL-1. With their dual pixel sensors, expect large sensor P&S cameras that focus relatively quickly and have fixed lenses like the G1 X.

ForumMuppet · Aug 8, 2013

Nope, no typos there. $35k which has again went up since I just purchased the 300 f/2.8 from B&H. LoL

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