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Jul 11, 2013

I have the 100mm f2.0 which is a very fast focusing lens. Cheaper than the macro IS as well.

But i think you are missing a trick...

Why augment, you already cover 100 with your 70-200, and at this perspective (car close to distant background) the faster aperture isn't going to do all that much to your depth of field.

Why not think expand instead? I haven't used the 40mm so cannot comment on it's speed, my M's 22 is STM and i wouldn't regard it a speed demon.

A wide or UWA might be a better option, some nice primes out there, like the 35mm f2.0 IS (or even the non Is if you can find) or Sigmas 17-50 f2.8 zoom?

You wont get a different perspective from lenses that your 70-200 already covers.

Helen Oster · Jul 11, 2013

sanj said:
ADORAMA is the BEST. No questions, discussions.

Do you know that Helen sleeps in shifts to cater to her world wide clients because of the time difference?

Hats off to her. (Yes, I do wear a hat at times. Check my photo in the publications. LOL.)

http://greypartridgefilms.com/wp-content/pdf/Cottars-Terrascape.pdf

Wow! Thank you so much.....yup; just call me the girl who never sleeps................................

Rienzphotoz · Jul 11, 2013

chauncey said:
They seem over-processed.

:

GMCPhotographics · Jul 11, 2013

What's the data though put for Digic 6? Dual Digic 5 was good for 227mb/s, so I'm wondering if the single Digic 6 will match these figures.
Oooo...here's a though, if the dual Digic 6 is good for around 340mb/s then a theoretical 1DXII could be good for 12fps @ 28mp.....nice! Or 6.3fps @ 54mp!

SwissBear · Jul 11, 2013

alexanderferdinand said:
The argument with the axis: why is the object in focus not affected, but the not in focus are?
Wouldnt this change the axis on the in focus object too?

Well, thats the magic of the IS

The angle of the plane of focus in relation to the object/camera may be affected, that depends on the way the IS works. If the IS works as a shift element, then the focal plane is not affected. If it works as a tilt element, then there is a minimal change:
If the maximal correctable shift is some 1mm in any direction (my guess, maybe its lower), the subject distance is still 1m, then the angular change of the focal plane is:
0.001/1=tan(alpha), solve for 2alpha, which is approx. 0.002rad or 0.115 degree.
I have no clue how an IS really works...

But more important is the actual position shift of the objects out of focus:
The position change of the far object can also be calculated: 2mm/1000m=x/10mm => x=0,2mm (32 pixel shift on a 5DIII, or some 46 pixel on the 18MP crop sensor as found in the 600D and others)
These are purely theoretical values, as the IS element is surely near the nodal point to lessen this parallax error.

I try to think of CR the next time I get a bad pic due to IS interference.
If you want to force bad bokeh, try the 70-200 or the 24-105 at its maximum focal length, focus on something like a single reed, a flower/fruit in a tree - something that is isolated, small so you get near MFD and has anyway a wild background. At least all pics i got with this IS-bad-bokeh were on such a setup - normally they were visible on the camera LCD so I took it again.

Dylan777 · Jul 11, 2013

Mt Spokane Photography said:
canon23 said:

Hi All,

I'm looking to save up to get the 5D Mark iii, but have a few questions.

1) how do I determine which camera is of which 'batch' of production since there has been various issues...e.g light leaks?

2) will the 'newest batch of production bodies' already have the most recent firmware updates (as of production)?

3) what other mechanical or firmware flaws should I pay attention to?

Thx!!

Click to expand...

The light leaks were a red herring, nothing to really worry about unless you take photos with the lens cap on. Production was updated a year ago, so there are none in stores (They were recalled and repaired).

Generally, expect a new camera to have the latest firmware. Canon starts shipping bodies with new firmware before the updates are offered to the public.

The only flaws will be random ones that occur in a small number of cases. There is nothing I've experienced that is a systemic flaw.

Basically, there is nothing to worry about, but if you are very concerned, buy your camera from a local dealer, one that will take care of any issues. You can save $$$ by getting one on ebay, but unless its a major dealer, you might have a tough time with service. I bought my 5D MK III on ebay from Adorama when they had a one day special price. Its never had a problem in its 10 months of life.

+1 with Mt Spokane Photography

I believe "light leak" issue was discovered in early production patches. There is a serial label located at bottom of camera. If the 6th digit is 1,2 or 3 then it belongs to early production patches. Exp. xxxxx1

My 1st 5D III came from VERY 1st PATCH. I'm still shooting with original firmware and original "light leak". I recently bought 2nd 5D III. The major dif. between these two is 2nd 5D III smells much newer. No dif in IQ.

RGF · Jul 10, 2013

boggy4062 said:
If you are a serious (or even less, but still serious) photographer,you will be using Lightroom. There are many apps for iPhone and Android,which create appropriate Geotags that Lightroom can import directly. No need for dedicated devices, since smartphones can do anything nowadays. Just make sure that your camera's time is set (close enough).

Ran GeoTagPhoto and got the geo tag file onto my computer and tried to tag files in LR 5. No luck. Perhaps my workflow in the field is not ideal - I turned on and off the app several times a day over a 2 week trip and have all the positions in a single .gpx file. The app and my cameras were synched to within 1-2 seconds of each other but I only collected positioning data every few hours (hard to get the GPS to work inside a covered vehicle, ...). I don't need "accurate" position (as long as I know the property or approx long/lat I am okay), but I can not get LR to tag any files. I went to the map portion of LR, selected all the files from the trip and then loaded the geo tag file. So far nothing is tagged. Is there someway to set time tolerance or to tell LR to pick the nearest time point?

bholliman · Jul 10, 2013

Very nice shots RL! Thanks for sharing.

TommyLee · Jul 10, 2013

ok
thanks....

I sort of thought the new one was ..almost the same... wait for a test..
but the 300mm is a bit short...ok

I really cant see the big prices for the new 200-400 +1.4TC

it is SURELY a fine optic..
but
I can see a couple acres in southern Oregon a better investment...good grief!
this only because I am not a pro in need of the top thang..

I see it ...if I was

thanks for a little info on the sigma

bvukich · Jul 10, 2013

This topic has been moved to Lighting.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=15771.0

GuyF · Jul 10, 2013

Hiring a 500mm f4 mk2 from Calumet - about £100 for Friday to Monday. Lensforhire were about £250! Yikes.

Alrik89 · Jul 10, 2013

Hi guys,
atm i'm looking for a 70-200mm-lens. And man, the new Canon 70-200mm 2.8 II is great, but expensive as well. So, i took a look at the Tamron 70-200mm... and was a little bit surprised about the zoom ring. It is dwarvish like on a 24-70mm-lens - compare it to the zoom ring of the canon version. And it is so far away from the camera body. The whole system of camera+lens feels somehow unbalanced.

What do you think about the zoom ring of the Tamron? It is as disturbing for you as for me? Or haven't you even determined it?

Jul 10, 2013

I hold the EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS and EF 70-300 IS for APS-C.

CANONisOK · Jul 10, 2013

thepancakeman said:
Definitely better than cell phone. ;-) Thanks for sharing--I was just thinking about this the other day and wondering how it went for you. Was the company happy?

People were really pleased. A lot of the folks I had captured made a point of coming to my office to say thanks, browse some of the other framed pictures on my walls, and ask about my photography. It was a pretty cool experience.

strykapose · Jul 10, 2013

privatebydesign said:
strykapose said:

Canon, What's Taking So Long? Please Hurry Up! by Strykapose, on Flickr

Click to expand...

And that is exactly why I believe most people will not benefit from a 36mp sensor, they are reversing their hoods and have polarisers permanently attached to their lens, often even indoors. High MP sensors demand the best of technique to realise their potential, and, as has been pointed out, a 5D MkIII with a 24-70 f2.8 MkII actually realises more resolution than a D800 with the Nikon 24-70 f2.8 anyway, 18mp to 15mp, even on a bench test.

I would like to point out that I shoot Canon. That D800E belongs to a friend of mine that went shooting with me. The filter is not a polarizer, it is an ND filter and I highly doubt that it's permanently attached since its a 10-stop. The hood is reversed because his camera was in his bag and I needed something to test focus since I'd dropped my nifty-fifty earlier, so I used his camera.
Now to the point of mp's...when I compare my Mk3 photos to his D800E after taking identical landscape shots on the same tripod with the same (and newest...Mk2) focal length lenses, his D800E photo out-resolves my Mk3. IMHO, I dislike the D800E's colors and user interface compared to the Mk3, as I'm able to quickly setup and shoot while he's still fumbling with this buttons.
I'm not here to create an argument nor to bash anyone. I just added the caption because I was expecting Canon's higher MP camera to arrive sooner.
Like Photomoose had mentioned, I'm also basing my judgement not on speculation, but by personal comparisons of both cameras and I have to admit, I may love my Mk3 but the D800E has knocked my resolution socks off a while ago and I'm currently running around bare-feet until Canon matches or surpasses.

bdunbar79 · Jul 9, 2013

johnhenry said:
Resolution of a lens is fine, but you need to have a sensor with enough pixels to capture it.

You also need to be able to take advantage of that resolution.

I do have to laugh a bit at people who use phones with outrageous number of pixels and expect to get the same results as a camera with a lens meant for optimal capture of images.

First off, the ULTIMATE resolution of a lens is based on its linear size, the larger the front element, the higher the resolution the lens is capable. You can stick on a CCD/CMOS with more pixels but if the lens is incapable of the resolution, the added data is simply an upsampled version of what was there. IE No meaningful improvement.

ScottFielding · Jul 9, 2013

bholliman said:
Great pictures Scott. Looks like the kids had a blast!

Did the two lenses work out as expected or did you find yourself wishing you had other lens options?

I love my go to 50L which I am used to, so shooting at 35mm on FF was quite a bit different, therefore leaving the 50L at home gave me no choice but to get used to a wider focal length. The bokeh on the 135 was stunning, and again took a bit of getting used to as I have only used the 70-200 2.8 II previously.

I love wide aperture, therefore love my primes. I was happy with just taking these two lenses, but as mentioned my kids are quick on their feet, so had to be quicker on mine

Scott

RLPhoto · Jul 9, 2013

Daniel Flather said:
RLPhoto said:

Because the d800 was released.

Click to expand...

Because more is better. The new truck model will always have more HP, not less.

Exactly, why do they make diesels? After all,they make such terrible HP compared to gas trucks. Perhaps a different use in mind?

Jul 9, 2013

vlad said:
I'm not sure how the single AFMA number in playback is determined when there's both body and lens adjustments - does it pick one or do a sum?

The AFMA setting has three options, 0: disabled, 1: adjust all lenses (the 'body adjustment'), and 2: adjust by lens. So, the camera will apply whichever is selected.

daniela · Jul 9, 2013

Spend 20$ and buy an Nikon D400 strap in Hongkong.
My husband did - and he was more interresting for the men with the biiiiig lenses then all of the "bunnys" who went around at the Nürburgring on Saturday and Sunday.

dstppy · Jul 9, 2013

Sporgon said:
neuroanatomist said:

dstppy said:

I'm still not getting how the 7D was lacking and the T2i is better

Click to expand...

Well, clearly the 7D just isn't cool. Consider...7D...T2i. A number and a letter vs. a letter and a number with an 'i'. Think iPhone, iPad, iMac, iPod...and not just Apple - an iRobot vacuums my house for me, iSpy was an awesome TV show (who doesn't like Robert Culp, and yes I took a contractional liberty there), but you get my point. Without the i, the 7D is just...lacking.

:

Click to expand...

Does this mean my 5D mkii is cool ? What happens if it is referred to as a 5D mk2 or 5D mkII ?

It could explain why the 5D mkiii is 50% cooler than the mkii. ;D

Only 50% cooler? Seems low . . .

epsiloneri · Jul 9, 2013

Unfortunately, a focal reducer for fast lenses at maintained IQ will remain a dream. An EF to EF-S reducer would be wonderful: it would effectively make your APS-C camera equivalent to a FF camera.

captainkanji · Jul 9, 2013

If you want to be stealthy and get up close, use as small of a camera as you can. I only have a DSLR, so I have to use the long lens and snipe from a distance. I prefer this method as I do not like to be seen and don't want people to know. Hard to do with a big white lens, so I'll hide and wait for the right moment. I also can't stand the idea of using a flash when photographing people on the street. If you don't mind annoying your victims, go for it. Eric Kim doesn't seem to mind.

arjay · Jul 9, 2013

Not inactive!

Jul 8, 2013

The PocketWizard MiniTT1/FlexTT5 are E-TTL II receiver/transceivers, and the power on them can be adjusted remotely with the AC3 Zone Controller, for 3 separate groups.

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