The 35 f2 IS is a good option then. Sharp, good IS for video and fast enough for indoor use.

He was just in the wrong place at the wrong time.

I had the RX100 with the Ikelite for about 6 months now but have to add I don't dive, I use it for the intertidal zone (tidal pools, etc.) and some sport shots.
Macro ability of the RX100 is very good (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151530217723171&set=a.325832463170.153409.254152713170&type=1&theater) but you will definitely need a flash for "real" underwater photography and should also consider a wide angle converter. Overall it's a great combination... I am however selling mine if you're interested (I do a lot of over/under shots, for that the RX100 isn't that great and I am going to get a SLR housing).

Nice pictures Ivan. Very interesting images on your blog also.

My new short film shot on the C100 with Zeiss glass. I really love the combination of the two. It looks really cinematic to me. Give it a look and tell me your thoughts!

https://vimeo.com/70319447

neuroanatomist said:

Northstar said:

neuroanatomist said:

Northstar said:

You will like the 40mm....I would add that with the STM focus motor, it will serve you well for indoor video too...

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How will the STM focus motor help with video, given that the OP has a 60D?

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by magic?....my mistake, i thought he wrote 6d

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Not even by magic lantern.

The 6D doesn't AF during video, either. Just the T4i/650D, T5i/700D, and the EOS M. The 70D will have it, too.

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Well, 6D has no AF tracking mode for video, but it does AF just fine, using the same slow hunting LiveView CDAF. From what I've seen, only 70D actually does AF tracking during video. T4i/650D, T5i/700D, and the EOS M are just trying to .

Re: Still only 1/3 stop difference! (When using 1.3 stop steps)

A EOS lens is only functioning to specification when powered up with a body.

The aperture setting is not a passive but an active device!

Is that metered manual or auto exposure?

In auto the camera can skew both settings by 1/6 or is that multiple 1/10's of stops with no indication of f-stop or shutter speed change. (Not sure of the sub step values that Canon uses 1/10 vs 1/6, It has been a long time since I went to Canon school)

So answer me this, how many stops difference is f1.2599 from f1.4142??????

Dylan777 said:

I hope I could sell my 5D III around $1500ish by the time 5D 4 coming out.

At this moment, I'm so dam happy with the results 5D III has to offer(my needs of course). The 5D III could be my last FF DSLR. I'm looking forward for FF mirrorless body like the Sony Rx-1, that allow shooter to swap lenses. Hope Canon, Nikon, Fuji or Sony will bring something to the market next 3-5yrs.

I would be tickle to death if future FF mirrorless AF speed x3 - x5 faster than current RX-1.

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When I bought my XS... I figured I would eventually upgrade. When I did, I sold it for exactly what I paid. I lost zero dollars. When I bought my 60D... I figured I would use it till it died. I sold it for $316 less than what I originally paid which equates to about $126 per year (2.5 years) as a rental fee ($0.34 per day). But then extra money came along and I had a full complement of lenses so I upgraded to the 5D mkiii. I presume I will have that for 3 years... maybe 4 unless then new 5d mkiv is just AMAZING. But with the 5d mkii, it had problems - mediocre auto focus being the big issue. I don't have any complaints with the mkiii. So after 4 years, I suspect I'll lose $1000 (I got it at a really good price so I won't lose as much as others) so $250 per year and $0.68 per day.

I don't like the idea of renting my camera for around $5 a week... but considering lens rentals and borrow lenses charge $127 for 5 days... I think I'm getting a bargain.

Also, if you are on a shoot and everyone has Canon gear, no confusion as to which belongs to whom.

Right about the 1965.....

sjschall said:

Love my label maker . . .
- label my lens caps so I can quickly see what's what when stored vertically in a bag
- label cards and batteries numerically, which is great for shooting and keeping track of them

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I love my 70-200 IS II. I used it on the 5d III and i am very pleased with the results. Here is a sample photo

to see more photos from this shoot visit my page

https://www.facebook.com/CastilloPhotoDesign?hc_location=timeline

MrFotoFool said:

Considering what you already have, no reason to buy the 300. The 70-200 2.8ii with 1.4x extender will give virtually identical results with the advantage of a zoom.

I shoot zoos extensively and used to have the 300 f4 (non IS) and the very old (black) 80-200 f2.8, which does not take extenders. The 300 is great, I have stunning shots with it, but it was too much carrying both telephotos and I hated switching so I would keep the 300 on most of the time and some shots ended up cutting off the animal legs because the framing was too tight.

I sold both lenses and now use the 70-200 2.8 (non IS) and 1.4x extender and that is the perfect setup. Stick with what you have (and if anything dump the 100-400).

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Getting rid of the 100-400 is not an option to me, as it is the ideal motorsports lens The 300 mm would be primarily for zoo-work, without an extender though so I guess its between the 70-200 + 1.4 and the 300 mm.

However great for the track, the 100-400 is a little bit disappointing for zoo-work IMHO. Note I'm not considering a 2x TC here as I don't want to work with a straight f/5.6 lens.

neuroanatomist said:

insanitybeard said:

I try as far as possible to completely discharge the LP-E6 in camera (so it will no longer power the camera) before I recharge it, though I'm not sure if this really makes much difference to battery life/ recharge performance.

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If anything, that's worse. Li-ion batteries are better used frequently but lightly. Frequent full discharges will actually reduce overall longevity.

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Interesting. The opposite of NiMH batteries which have memories

Something to keep in mind, the shape of your softbox dictates what you're trying to mimic in nature. Square/Rectangle boxes mirror a window with the sun coming in (I've even seen someone gaffers tape a grid onto the front of one). Octa's and beauty dishes are round and more sun like.

Strip boxes I don't have a relative light source off hand. Big softboxes are fun because with some foam core, you can turn a 4x6 into 2 1x4's with 4' between them.

I agree with Fegari that the 2x TC III definitely gives it more true macro reach. I have no clue what those who claim the bare lens zoomed 2x shows more detail are seeing since the macro+2x TC clearly is bringing in more true and real fine detail.

They certainly appreciate all of you linking the website URL and clicking the link. That's how Google and others determine the ranking.

I've removed the URL and locked the topic to prevent more free advertising.

IceAgeDX said:

The 7Dmkii will likely be out of my price range.. But if the 70D has the same sensor as original 7D I assume it'll still be really good

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I think the 70D will have a better sensor than the 7D, at least based on the specs:

7D

• 18MP
• 100-6400 ISO (standard)
• 12,800 ISO (expanded)
• WiFi: NO
• 3" fixed screen
• 920,000 dot LCD
• 8 fps burst

70D

• 20.2MP
• 100-12800 ISO (standard)
• 25,600 ISO (expanded)
• WiFi: BUILT IN
• 3" fixed screen
• 1,040,000 dot LCD
• 7 fps burst

Based on these specs, I think your 70D is a better by. And not wanting to start a holy war, I will say that I've never been impressed with the 7D (you can look back to some of my first posts here on this forum), and truly believe it is a lemon.

I'm one of the few (probably <5% of users) who never got a sharp photo from a 7D; and started hating photography because of it. Yes, I'm a pixel-peeper, and yes, I'm an OCD photographer. I want my images to be tacky sharp. So maybe I'm not a fair example of the average 7D shooter.

But in my limited experience with only three 7D bodies, each one failed me with its poor AF. Pretty much every shot I got from a 7D body resembled the infamous Darwin Wiggett "melted-hay" photos at 100% view. After months of swapping bodies with Canon Irvine, I finally parted ways with my 7D. Since that moment I felt as if the heavens opened, and I became a sane photographer once again!

However, I am excited about the prospects of a 7D MKII based on recent rumors posted here on CR, and anxiously await its announcement. I'm sure any AF issues have been resolved in the 4 years since the original 7D launched.

Given the refreshed range of none L primes, I'm expecting a 50mm f2.0 IS pretty soon. I'm also expecting a new 100-400mm zoom this year, it must be the oldest yet best selling white lens out there... I'm expecting no change in f along with Hybrid IS - plus a 75% price hike :-/

Canon often does not show a product as discontinued until well after production has stopped.

I've once owned the lens, I bought it cheaply off Craigslist, but never really found a use for it. I also had the Nikon 135mm f/2 DC which was a very impressive lens, (and much more expensive). I ended up selling both a few years ago.

Besides the better focal range on Crop the image stabilizer of the 15-85 outperforms the 24-105L IS.

Thanks for the advice so far. I'm torn between which extender to look at. I've heard to always go with the 1.4 because it will AF with f/4 lenses, and that makes sense. The worry I have is that I don't see myself getting an f/4 lens anytime soon, and I am worried that without the 2x I won't see much of a difference from 200 to 280.

Cali, do you still live in CA? If so, where are some places you'd recommend a photo trip to?

Thanks!

CarrySpeed F1 plate + SpiderHolster kit for ThinkTank belts. (the post on the the F1 works fine with the Spider setup)

Yes, it's a mix and match, but it gives you:
- a built in Arca plate (when you need to shoot from a tripod)
- pockets and bags as needed (lots of options from ThinkTank)
- when you bend forward, your cameras don't swing forward

http://www.carryspeedstrap.com/ProductsView-9.html
http://www.spiderholster.com/prospeed-adapter.html
http://www.thinktankphoto.com/categories/beltstrapharness/belts/pro-speed-belts.aspx

The more I'm shooting between the two, the more I think the DOF issue I originally posted about is due to EF vs. EFS. The problem gets better as focus distance increases and I will chalk that up to rear element to sensor distance difference between the lenses with the DOF phenomena exaggerated at closer focus distance to subject. My old kit 18-55 EF-S lens was exhibiting the same behavior vs. my 24-105L. (sadly the 24-105L didn't look any better than the kit lens on that old 20D body. UGH!!)

I'm thinking poor right side frame performance on the 16-35 is due to it being at it's widest vs. the 10-22 @16mm getting some breathing room along with lens copy variation. (Mine not being that hot). I tested it against another 16-35 at a camera store yesterday which only had one copy and theirs was better on the right side of the frame.

I'm not usually a huge pixel peeper except when I get a new lens. I don't seem to ever get a good copy off the bat with more expensive canon lenses. The 24-105L I initially got with my 6D kit about made me sick to my stomach it was so bad. I like to find out about any possible issues once, then never worry about it again so I can get to more productive things and enjoy taking pictures, but I also like to know where equipment limitations lie.

Availibility: 21st of October 2013

How would the 1dMkIIn fare? Here at least it tends to go for even less than the 5Dc and has far better AF if you just want to try it out. Admittedly it is pretty ancient by now

I'd get the Pro version, Plus at a minimum. On the 5DII, fully automatic testing actually works - you can set it up and walk away (on the 5DIII/1D X/6D, you have to manually change settings on the camera). But to me, the extra tests are very useful for characterizing performance of your camera and lenses. For example, if you buy a new lens, or drop a lens but it 'appears fine' you can test to determine if it's performing well.