tnargs said:

Jim Saunders said:

No IS? Pffff

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Go on, shake it.

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Now that is humour! ;D

I have both the 50/1.4 and the 40 on a full frame. To me the 40 starts to get to the point where it has a bit of that wide angle distortion to it. It's not much, but it's definitely not a normal. On a full frame and wide open the vignetting is there for sure. Manually focusing is definitely more fiddly with the 40 as well due to a slight delay between touch and the result. Since I manually focus a fair portion of the time this is a big thing to me. You might not care.

To me the 40 is mostly about size, but it is also the second sharpest piece of glass that I own. Don't underestimate how sharp it is based upon the size or cost. It's simply nothing to sneeze at. Pure raw sharpness won't make your pictures better though.

The main difference to me between the two is halation. The 50 has it, the 40 does not. Of course it goes away long before you hit f/2.8 but it's there if you want it and f/1.4 is the on switch. The 50 has a certain look to it, even beyond just the thinner DoF with some swirly bokeh.

The thin DoF of the 50/1.4 may be too much for you. Bokeh is generally prettier wide open, so having wide open at only f/2.8 is a certain advantage. With the 50 you can have eyelashes in focus but not the iris or if the head is turned slightly then you have to make sure the closer eye is at least in focus because you're not going to really get both wide open. You're really playing with fire there and unless you're manually focusing with the high precision focus screen, you're not going to be happy in the end. But having that much control is truly awesome.

I've got a 5D3 also and shoot with wi-fi cards on occasion so a client or 'other' can view the images on an IOS device within seconds after they are shot. It works well but has limitations. I shoot small JPG's to the wifi SD card that load up to an Ipad for the client and shoot RAW to the CF card for post processing later.

Another great option is the CamRanger that was mentioned above. I picked up one a few weeks ago and it works great for remote shooting from an IOS device. The best feature is the Live View shooting where you can make all adjustments on the screen before taking the shot. You can shoot HDR and focus-stacking with the free app.

Best of luck!

paul13walnut5 said:

..and what it is, is clearly not what the OP needs if he is going to print very large prints and view very close up.

I don't think the 5D is the camera either for what it's worth.

It's not that I'm down on the lens. I'm down on the OP's expectations.

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I'd go 6D instead.

It all depends on what you want to do with it. All the lenses you list are very good all-purpose lenses. If you have anything more specific in mind there may be alternatives.

Somebody mentioned it already but I would always start with a 135L for the longer end before buying expensive big fast heavy zoom lenses - or settle on a lighter and cheaper f/4 lens. But again that all depends on use and preferences.

I can just get a 48G card full with a bit on the battery indicator to spare, ( PS I turn the lcd to the lowest brightness)

I live in the driest state of Australia (South Australia) - and have been to some environments which are dry, dusty and sandy. When the wind is blowing in these locations, I don't change lenses... though occasionally I'll change lens (not near the ground) at the beach, if I feel it's safe.

After tens of thousands of photos, I've had one or two specs of dust on my 7D's sensor as a result, but thankfully with my rocket blower have removed them. The 15-85mm - though not rated 'weather sealed' is definitely a step up from my former 28-135mm - which got dust (and 1 or 2 pieces of sand) in the zoom, but thankfully I could remove them (coax them out using gravity and a fine bit of paper, as they were still near the join of the zoom)

I also have the 70-300mm L - which is a step up from any non L lens...it's built like a tank, and tolerances are tight. I carefully brush off sand / grit / dust from my 7D body and front of lens. In spray conditions I do use UV (or CPL) filters - which I can wash off later (easier).

Best wishes for your trip. In extreme conditions, I'd probably not go outside with the camera, unless you have some protection (eg designed bag, etc). Then again, you probably don't want to go out without eye protection in a true sand storm either!

The photo & story of interpilot, and the post of tgara also share some telling situations. Do be careful, but where the weather isn't extreme... you should be ok (as long as you don't change lenses or filters), so enjoy it then!

Paul

verysimplejason said:

An M + 22mm pancake (or 18-55) will do better since you don't mind the weight (though it's a lot lighter than a G1X) even if you add the 90EX flash. Grab one now if you can in B&H. I heard they're on sale. Bigger sensor + better AF (after firmware update).

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+1

In my opinion EOS M is a better buy than those two at current pricing. If you also buy the EF lens adapter, you can even mount your current (and future) EF/EF-S lenses on the M.

Hannes said:

For me the AF is a deal breaker. Had it had the af capabilities but most importantly the spread of even the older 40/50D AF array I wouldn't have hesitated. I could live with inferior AF compared to the 5DIII if it is priced accordingly. I could live with SD cards and the lack of the joystick but something as important as AF isn't nice to scrimp on.

One thing I would have like to see would be an option like a 6D mod. B that replaced the gps and wifi with a pop up flash. While it wouldn't be used much having one as a back up is always nice for when one is taking snapshots and if it could act as a master it'd be awesome.

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There may very well be a "model B" version of the 6D in the future. It seems logical. I owned a 50D for 4 years. The 6D's autofocus is superior to it in most situations. The 50D lacked the ability to tweak the servo mode, for example. It also had less AF points...

The spread of the 6D's AF points alone (and/or the lack of a higher number of points), isn't really that big of a problem. The big problem is all the points other than the center point, are intentionally not cross type. This is the much moaned about "hobbling". They need not be "double cross", in my opinion. But all the outer ones are one direction only, and not very sensitive in low light. However, I knew this long before I bought, or even tried a 6D.

That aside, as I have said in another thread today...I have nearly 7000 cycles on the shutter since March, and I am very happy with this 6D. It is what I expected, and it performs well for the money spent. The only time I get something not in focus, is if I depend only on those outer points...while also in low light...and usually in servo mode...with anything that moves even at a moderate speed. So...just don't do that. Leave them all active, or else use center point only. In servo mode in very bright light with a high contrast subject, you can probably get by with selecting only one outer point. But for servo mode that is critical, or in lower light...leave them all active and make sure you keep the action at or near the center of the frame. If you're hypercritical about not wanting to do this, you probably already own a 5D3, a 1DX, or something else anyway.

Also the choice of lens seems like it is crucial, for AF speed and accuracy during servo mode. In my experience, the "faster" aperture lens, isn't necessarily always going to achieve focus as fast as a "slower" lens, even if the light is less than ideal. In my opinion there are a lot of factors in play here...certainly the "weak" AF sensor in the 6D needs all the help you can give it, in this situation. So if you know you have a shoot coming up where it's critical, try as many lenses as possible, and mimic the shooting conditions as best you can...to decide which one will work best and fastest with the camera.

If I made a living solely with photography, I would probably own all three...the 1DX, 5D3, and 6D. For my current professional and non-pro purposes, the 6D steps up and is always ready for action. My own goal is to own something with a superior image and AF sensor, to the 1DX...which will hopefully happen with its replacement.

One more point...I'm also perfectly happy with the 6D's video ability. I don't shoot video professionally, and have yet to notice any moire. I know it's there, but I apparently don't ever shoot anything that will set it off. I guess I just like the low noise, the color and contrast. But I certainly would like to emphasize, that if you ever intend to shoot professional video with a Canon DSLR, just make sure you use a 5D3, likely with the RAW video hack. Before that hack, to me the Black Magic camera looked better...but not since the hack. My non-expert opinion...

ahab1372 said:

that1guyy said:

tron said:

Dylan777 said:

neuroanatomist said:

19 AF points and a D-pad. To whomever said it would need a joystick, sorry...told ya!

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Joystick will be in 7D II with 1D X or 5D III 61points AF system - 10fps ;D

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Now, that was the worst thing to say. Everyone will wait for that camera and will not buy 70D at all ;D ;D ;D

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Not "everyone" has over $2000 to spend on cameras. And it most likely won't have the tilt screen which is a deal breaker.

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Not "everyone" needs or wants a tilt screen

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With new video feature - why not tilt screen ;D

Thank you for the valuable advice! Regards.

Pi said:

I believe that many posts miss the OP's point. DPI in LR just writes a flag in the EXIF, and it is not used as a basis for resizing the image. For most practical purposes, that flag is completely irrelevant.

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I have learned quite a lot!!!
Thank you guys

And crud...I see I put this in rumors. Mods, please move this to the regular lenses section. Sorry!!!

I have everything except the stand, tripod, softbox and umbrella in a LowePro Flipside 500 AW. My assistant caries the rucksack everywhere we go, except when we are traveling with the car.

fstoparmy said:

Hey everyone.
Back for another install of the flash tutorials I have been doing. This time, i cover 1st and 2nd curtain shutter sync and where / when you would use each. I have also included some sample pics this time aswell
Hope you all enjoy
Much luv goes out to everyone on the CR forums
http://youtu.be/wENZLHRkazA

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Nice videos, and just liked your page on FB. Looking forward to more.

G

Let me start with my Home town Stockholm, beautiful during sunset


Time to rest, Photographer Emil Lundstrom by imaginize.net, on Flickr


High Way Home, Photographer Emil Lundstrom by imaginize.net, on Flickr


Falling asleep, Photographer Emil Lundstrom by imaginize.net, on Flickr


Photographer Emil Lundstrom by imaginize.net, on Flickr

.
I don't know if it's improved my comprehension of the fine art concept, but this made for a great Sunday morning read. It's not every day I find cogent and erudite writing, especially on a topic like this. Notapro and Hillsilly, I really enjoy what you've said here.

Recently I've been exploring this more than ever before. A few months ago I walked into a "fine art" photo gallery in a fashionable (people living in the area can afford to buy what they're selling) neighborhood of Philadelphia. Three pictures got my attention.

Famous Alabama artist William Christenberry had a spot. Three of his pictures hung side-by-side as a single work. It was three pictures of a rural roadway corner taken years apart. Interesting to see the change in the landscape over time, but I don't get any great art message from it. If you ask me what human significance it had, I couldn't begin to even imagine. I did however, appreciate it as a depiction of time passing.

The next picture I don't recall the artist. It was a picture of a person holding a fish. I kept looking at it and thinking I'd love to have someone explain to me how this is art. But then, I think there must be people who look at Van Gogh's stuff and wonder the same thing. I'm content at this point to think this question is a beginning to acquisition of knowledge.

The third picture riveted me. I think the title is "Oranges," and it's by Jessica Todd Harper. Apparently, it's the anchor of her book, Interior Exposure, and it can be seen here:

http://www.jessicatoddharper.com/#s=0&mi=2&pt=1&pi=10000&p=0&a=0&at=0

There's an almost frightening intimacy to that and other pictures in the book. If I tried for a hundred years I don't think I could ever create even one of those pictures. Also, they are technically perfect or near perfect as photography. She obviously knows what "image quality" means, but then she uses that as a foundation to go way beyond.

While I flippantly say fine art photography is anything created by someone with an MFA degree, I also know there are many people who know far more about this than I do. If they think a person holding a fish qualifies, it's up to me to ask why. And the question, of course, is the beginning.

I don't know if it's something I intuited myself years ago or whether I learned it somewhere, but for years I've comforted myself with the adage: The question IS the answer.

For myself in the world of photography, I don't know that I've yet come to know what the question actually is. So, I'll keep looking and asking until I find that question.

iDphotography said:

Hi everyone,

didn't found any news about this recently.
I just found out that I have the same issue with my 100mm 2.8 macro.

The sound starts quietly but then the volume increases and increases.
I don't want to damage the lens nor the camera.

Any updates on this?
Thanks

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There has been no recent news because the affected lenses were recalled and fixed well over a year ago. The 100mm L macro was not affected, and I've not had a problem with either of my 5D MK III's, and have not seen it reported. its a relatively common lens, so users would be reporting issues by the thousands if there ware some sort of a general flaw.
http://www.canon.co.uk/Support/Consumer_Products/products/cameras/Digital_SLR/EOS_5D_Mark_III.aspx?faqtcmuri=tcm:14-923859&page=1&type=important
I suggest that you have it repaired.

wickidwombat said:

awesome review thanks for doing that for me dustin!

from looking at it I have to agree with your take the tamron does seem to have noticably smoother bokeh
and it is clear the tamron would be sharper in the corners than a mk1 24-70 canon its here the 40mm blows the doors off the canon

also your pros /cons list forgot to give the IS win to the tamron

So now with some perspective of how it compares to a stellar lens like the shorty 40 its looking like a very good lens!

1 more question how are you going with the reverse direction zoom ring? is it wierd ?

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The reverse zoom ring (which I'm not crazy about) is less of an issue on this lens because it is relatively short. I find it more of a bother on my 70-300L and also the Tamron 70-200 VC that I am in the process of reviewing, primarily because it means it is further away.

P.S. I've done a AFMA in better conditions on both of these lens and they are performing even better. The Tamron really does produce great images.

I would take the 1d4 as it is classified as a pro body and u can get better resale then the 5d3

Is 5D3 the new entry level toy? Just wondering... ;D

congrats man! that is great! i'm sure me and all the other expats in China saw it! Google doesn't work here so we all use Bing!
I'm very curious how you're picture got on Bing as well... Did you submit it to them?

ROFL - i'm sending it to the museum

Thanks skfia for the suggestions

IceAgeDX said:

nubu said:

The two "half-pixels" share the same front-lens so they probe the same spatial info and therefore are not increasing the spatial resolution. In order to double e.g. the horizonal resolution they would have to double the little frontlenses too but then they could not use it in the same way for phase contrast autofocus...

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That makes sense.

Moving on, can you tell me about these little lenses? Are there literally 20million little tiny lenses?

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Yes, there are.

And as already noted, these 20 million tiny lenses determine the image resolution - even though there's a 40mp sensor underneath.

The thing is, this 40mp sensor would have likely had quite poor image quality if it wasn't doing the 2->1 merging of signals.

I would go with the EOS M as you will be getting a wider and faster lens. (35/2 vs 40/2.8 ). And for traveling smaller is always better. And at the current price it's a no brainer!