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bvukich · Jul 10, 2013

This topic has been moved to Lighting.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=15771.0

GuyF · Jul 10, 2013

Hiring a 500mm f4 mk2 from Calumet - about £100 for Friday to Monday. Lensforhire were about £250! Yikes.

Alrik89 · Jul 10, 2013

Hi guys,
atm i'm looking for a 70-200mm-lens. And man, the new Canon 70-200mm 2.8 II is great, but expensive as well. So, i took a look at the Tamron 70-200mm... and was a little bit surprised about the zoom ring. It is dwarvish like on a 24-70mm-lens - compare it to the zoom ring of the canon version. And it is so far away from the camera body. The whole system of camera+lens feels somehow unbalanced.

What do you think about the zoom ring of the Tamron? It is as disturbing for you as for me? Or haven't you even determined it?

Jul 10, 2013

I hold the EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS and EF 70-300 IS for APS-C.

CANONisOK · Jul 10, 2013

thepancakeman said:
Definitely better than cell phone. ;-) Thanks for sharing--I was just thinking about this the other day and wondering how it went for you. Was the company happy?

People were really pleased. A lot of the folks I had captured made a point of coming to my office to say thanks, browse some of the other framed pictures on my walls, and ask about my photography. It was a pretty cool experience.

strykapose · Jul 10, 2013

privatebydesign said:
strykapose said:

Canon, What's Taking So Long? Please Hurry Up! by Strykapose, on Flickr

Click to expand...

And that is exactly why I believe most people will not benefit from a 36mp sensor, they are reversing their hoods and have polarisers permanently attached to their lens, often even indoors. High MP sensors demand the best of technique to realise their potential, and, as has been pointed out, a 5D MkIII with a 24-70 f2.8 MkII actually realises more resolution than a D800 with the Nikon 24-70 f2.8 anyway, 18mp to 15mp, even on a bench test.

I would like to point out that I shoot Canon. That D800E belongs to a friend of mine that went shooting with me. The filter is not a polarizer, it is an ND filter and I highly doubt that it's permanently attached since its a 10-stop. The hood is reversed because his camera was in his bag and I needed something to test focus since I'd dropped my nifty-fifty earlier, so I used his camera.
Now to the point of mp's...when I compare my Mk3 photos to his D800E after taking identical landscape shots on the same tripod with the same (and newest...Mk2) focal length lenses, his D800E photo out-resolves my Mk3. IMHO, I dislike the D800E's colors and user interface compared to the Mk3, as I'm able to quickly setup and shoot while he's still fumbling with this buttons.
I'm not here to create an argument nor to bash anyone. I just added the caption because I was expecting Canon's higher MP camera to arrive sooner.
Like Photomoose had mentioned, I'm also basing my judgement not on speculation, but by personal comparisons of both cameras and I have to admit, I may love my Mk3 but the D800E has knocked my resolution socks off a while ago and I'm currently running around bare-feet until Canon matches or surpasses.

bdunbar79 · Jul 9, 2013

johnhenry said:
Resolution of a lens is fine, but you need to have a sensor with enough pixels to capture it.

You also need to be able to take advantage of that resolution.

I do have to laugh a bit at people who use phones with outrageous number of pixels and expect to get the same results as a camera with a lens meant for optimal capture of images.

First off, the ULTIMATE resolution of a lens is based on its linear size, the larger the front element, the higher the resolution the lens is capable. You can stick on a CCD/CMOS with more pixels but if the lens is incapable of the resolution, the added data is simply an upsampled version of what was there. IE No meaningful improvement.

ScottFielding · Jul 9, 2013

bholliman said:
Great pictures Scott. Looks like the kids had a blast!

Did the two lenses work out as expected or did you find yourself wishing you had other lens options?

I love my go to 50L which I am used to, so shooting at 35mm on FF was quite a bit different, therefore leaving the 50L at home gave me no choice but to get used to a wider focal length. The bokeh on the 135 was stunning, and again took a bit of getting used to as I have only used the 70-200 2.8 II previously.

I love wide aperture, therefore love my primes. I was happy with just taking these two lenses, but as mentioned my kids are quick on their feet, so had to be quicker on mine

Scott

RLPhoto · Jul 9, 2013

Daniel Flather said:
RLPhoto said:

Because the d800 was released.

Click to expand...

Because more is better. The new truck model will always have more HP, not less.

Exactly, why do they make diesels? After all,they make such terrible HP compared to gas trucks. Perhaps a different use in mind?

Jul 9, 2013

vlad said:
I'm not sure how the single AFMA number in playback is determined when there's both body and lens adjustments - does it pick one or do a sum?

The AFMA setting has three options, 0: disabled, 1: adjust all lenses (the 'body adjustment'), and 2: adjust by lens. So, the camera will apply whichever is selected.

daniela · Jul 9, 2013

Spend 20$ and buy an Nikon D400 strap in Hongkong.
My husband did - and he was more interresting for the men with the biiiiig lenses then all of the "bunnys" who went around at the Nürburgring on Saturday and Sunday.

dstppy · Jul 9, 2013

Sporgon said:
neuroanatomist said:

dstppy said:

I'm still not getting how the 7D was lacking and the T2i is better

Click to expand...

Well, clearly the 7D just isn't cool. Consider...7D...T2i. A number and a letter vs. a letter and a number with an 'i'. Think iPhone, iPad, iMac, iPod...and not just Apple - an iRobot vacuums my house for me, iSpy was an awesome TV show (who doesn't like Robert Culp, and yes I took a contractional liberty there), but you get my point. Without the i, the 7D is just...lacking.

:

Click to expand...

Does this mean my 5D mkii is cool ? What happens if it is referred to as a 5D mk2 or 5D mkII ?

It could explain why the 5D mkiii is 50% cooler than the mkii. ;D

Only 50% cooler? Seems low . . .

epsiloneri · Jul 9, 2013

Unfortunately, a focal reducer for fast lenses at maintained IQ will remain a dream. An EF to EF-S reducer would be wonderful: it would effectively make your APS-C camera equivalent to a FF camera.

captainkanji · Jul 9, 2013

If you want to be stealthy and get up close, use as small of a camera as you can. I only have a DSLR, so I have to use the long lens and snipe from a distance. I prefer this method as I do not like to be seen and don't want people to know. Hard to do with a big white lens, so I'll hide and wait for the right moment. I also can't stand the idea of using a flash when photographing people on the street. If you don't mind annoying your victims, go for it. Eric Kim doesn't seem to mind.

arjay · Jul 9, 2013

Not inactive!

Jul 8, 2013

The PocketWizard MiniTT1/FlexTT5 are E-TTL II receiver/transceivers, and the power on them can be adjusted remotely with the AC3 Zone Controller, for 3 separate groups.

Viggo · Jul 8, 2013

tnargs said:
Jim Saunders said:

No IS? Pffff

Click to expand...

Go on, shake it.

Now that is humour! ;D

paulc · Jul 8, 2013

I have both the 50/1.4 and the 40 on a full frame. To me the 40 starts to get to the point where it has a bit of that wide angle distortion to it. It's not much, but it's definitely not a normal. On a full frame and wide open the vignetting is there for sure. Manually focusing is definitely more fiddly with the 40 as well due to a slight delay between touch and the result. Since I manually focus a fair portion of the time this is a big thing to me. You might not care.

To me the 40 is mostly about size, but it is also the second sharpest piece of glass that I own. Don't underestimate how sharp it is based upon the size or cost. It's simply nothing to sneeze at. Pure raw sharpness won't make your pictures better though.

The main difference to me between the two is halation. The 50 has it, the 40 does not. Of course it goes away long before you hit f/2.8 but it's there if you want it and f/1.4 is the on switch. The 50 has a certain look to it, even beyond just the thinner DoF with some swirly bokeh.

The thin DoF of the 50/1.4 may be too much for you. Bokeh is generally prettier wide open, so having wide open at only f/2.8 is a certain advantage. With the 50 you can have eyelashes in focus but not the iris or if the head is turned slightly then you have to make sure the closer eye is at least in focus because you're not going to really get both wide open. You're really playing with fire there and unless you're manually focusing with the high precision focus screen, you're not going to be happy in the end. But having that much control is truly awesome.

MARKOE PHOTOE · Jul 8, 2013

I've got a 5D3 also and shoot with wi-fi cards on occasion so a client or 'other' can view the images on an IOS device within seconds after they are shot. It works well but has limitations. I shoot small JPG's to the wifi SD card that load up to an Ipad for the client and shoot RAW to the CF card for post processing later.

Another great option is the CamRanger that was mentioned above. I picked up one a few weeks ago and it works great for remote shooting from an IOS device. The best feature is the Live View shooting where you can make all adjustments on the screen before taking the shot. You can shoot HDR and focus-stacking with the free app.

Best of luck!

pedro · Jul 8, 2013

paul13walnut5 said:
..and what it is, is clearly not what the OP needs if he is going to print very large prints and view very close up.

I don't think the 5D is the camera either for what it's worth.

It's not that I'm down on the lens. I'm down on the OP's expectations.

I'd go 6D instead.

7enderbender · Jul 8, 2013

It all depends on what you want to do with it. All the lenses you list are very good all-purpose lenses. If you have anything more specific in mind there may be alternatives.

Somebody mentioned it already but I would always start with a 135L for the longer end before buying expensive big fast heavy zoom lenses - or settle on a lighter and cheaper f/4 lens. But again that all depends on use and preferences.

cookinghusband · Jul 8, 2013

I can just get a 48G card full with a bit on the battery indicator to spare, ( PS I turn the lcd to the lowest brightness)

pj1974 · Jul 8, 2013

I live in the driest state of Australia (South Australia) - and have been to some environments which are dry, dusty and sandy. When the wind is blowing in these locations, I don't change lenses... though occasionally I'll change lens (not near the ground) at the beach, if I feel it's safe.

After tens of thousands of photos, I've had one or two specs of dust on my 7D's sensor as a result, but thankfully with my rocket blower have removed them. The 15-85mm - though not rated 'weather sealed' is definitely a step up from my former 28-135mm - which got dust (and 1 or 2 pieces of sand) in the zoom, but thankfully I could remove them (coax them out using gravity and a fine bit of paper, as they were still near the join of the zoom)

I also have the 70-300mm L - which is a step up from any non L lens...it's built like a tank, and tolerances are tight. I carefully brush off sand / grit / dust from my 7D body and front of lens. In spray conditions I do use UV (or CPL) filters - which I can wash off later (easier).

Best wishes for your trip. In extreme conditions, I'd probably not go outside with the camera, unless you have some protection (eg designed bag, etc). Then again, you probably don't want to go out without eye protection in a true sand storm either!

The photo & story of interpilot, and the post of tgara also share some telling situations. Do be careful, but where the weather isn't extreme... you should be ok (as long as you don't change lenses or filters), so enjoy it then!

Paul

retina · Jul 8, 2013

verysimplejason said:
An M + 22mm pancake (or 18-55) will do better since you don't mind the weight (though it's a lot lighter than a G1X) even if you add the 90EX flash. Grab one now if you can in B&H. I heard they're on sale. Bigger sensor + better AF (after firmware update).

+1

In my opinion EOS M is a better buy than those two at current pricing. If you also buy the EF lens adapter, you can even mount your current (and future) EF/EF-S lenses on the M.

CarlTN · Jul 8, 2013

Hannes said:
For me the AF is a deal breaker. Had it had the af capabilities but most importantly the spread of even the older 40/50D AF array I wouldn't have hesitated. I could live with inferior AF compared to the 5DIII if it is priced accordingly. I could live with SD cards and the lack of the joystick but something as important as AF isn't nice to scrimp on.

One thing I would have like to see would be an option like a 6D mod. B that replaced the gps and wifi with a pop up flash. While it wouldn't be used much having one as a back up is always nice for when one is taking snapshots and if it could act as a master it'd be awesome.

There may very well be a "model B" version of the 6D in the future. It seems logical. I owned a 50D for 4 years. The 6D's autofocus is superior to it in most situations. The 50D lacked the ability to tweak the servo mode, for example. It also had less AF points...

The spread of the 6D's AF points alone (and/or the lack of a higher number of points), isn't really that big of a problem. The big problem is all the points other than the center point, are intentionally not cross type. This is the much moaned about "hobbling". They need not be "double cross", in my opinion. But all the outer ones are one direction only, and not very sensitive in low light. However, I knew this long before I bought, or even tried a 6D.

That aside, as I have said in another thread today...I have nearly 7000 cycles on the shutter since March, and I am very happy with this 6D. It is what I expected, and it performs well for the money spent. The only time I get something not in focus, is if I depend only on those outer points...while also in low light...and usually in servo mode...with anything that moves even at a moderate speed. So...just don't do that. Leave them all active, or else use center point only. In servo mode in very bright light with a high contrast subject, you can probably get by with selecting only one outer point. But for servo mode that is critical, or in lower light...leave them all active and make sure you keep the action at or near the center of the frame. If you're hypercritical about not wanting to do this, you probably already own a 5D3, a 1DX, or something else anyway.

Also the choice of lens seems like it is crucial, for AF speed and accuracy during servo mode. In my experience, the "faster" aperture lens, isn't necessarily always going to achieve focus as fast as a "slower" lens, even if the light is less than ideal. In my opinion there are a lot of factors in play here...certainly the "weak" AF sensor in the 6D needs all the help you can give it, in this situation. So if you know you have a shoot coming up where it's critical, try as many lenses as possible, and mimic the shooting conditions as best you can...to decide which one will work best and fastest with the camera.

If I made a living solely with photography, I would probably own all three...the 1DX, 5D3, and 6D. For my current professional and non-pro purposes, the 6D steps up and is always ready for action. My own goal is to own something with a superior image and AF sensor, to the 1DX...which will hopefully happen with its replacement.

One more point...I'm also perfectly happy with the 6D's video ability. I don't shoot video professionally, and have yet to notice any moire. I know it's there, but I apparently don't ever shoot anything that will set it off. I guess I just like the low noise, the color and contrast. But I certainly would like to emphasize, that if you ever intend to shoot professional video with a Canon DSLR, just make sure you use a 5D3, likely with the RAW video hack. Before that hack, to me the Black Magic camera looked better...but not since the hack. My non-expert opinion...

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