Try Helicon Remote:-
http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconremote.html

I'm spending Thanksgiving in Sun Valley and will be shooting a variety of wide and UWA landscape scenes. i.e. Baldy, the Lodge, Sawtooths etc.

I've had good learning experiences this fall with my B+W 3.0 10 stop ND filter but have yet to try it in a snow covered or high key scene.

Any tips would be appreciated.

TIA

a friend of mine just landed me one f2.8 non-IS.
Amazing.

Since it is happening multiple times, I would suspect them doing it on purpose to lure people to their site. You will not find the 5dIII at that price for a good 5 years lol.

I checked all the recommendations. SUPER nice.

As it is I am unsocial and am about to become more so!

Btw if any of you need my recommendation on a website it is Juza photo.

This topic has been moved to Third Party Manufacturers.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=10964.0

Something is bending so that contact cannot be made. It could be something as simple as a battery contact, but it is more likely a poor circuit connection inside the flash.
Send it in for repair.

RLPhoto said:

Canon APS-C sensor vs The Competiton.

The Competition Wins. :|

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It might be closer with this next round of products if Nikon continues to inexplicably put that 24mp sensor into everything they have. The 16mp was tremendous but apparently both Sony and Nikon decided it was getting long in the tooth - you can now get a D5100 or NEX 5N for practically nothing while they clear out stock. If Canon can produce a sizable improvement in the 7D2 sensor then the playing field could be level or even swing the other way quite easily.

Edit: the D7000 for under $1000 new is an absolutely amazing deal! If I hadn't already blown a chunk out of my bank account with my current kit then I would be all over that.

AdamJ said:

ScottyP said:

http://nikonrumors.com/2012/11/07/chipworks-nikon-d600-sensor-made-by-sony.aspx/

This from Chipworks, via Nikon Rumors.

Kind of interesting to look at NR. I want to go back and see how many posts tell gripers to "Go switch to Canon" or "It's not about the gear; it is about the talent of the photographer", etc... 8)

But apparently D600, D800, D7000, and basically all newly announced Nikons have Sony sensors, except for D4 and D3200.

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Is this news?

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nope, not news at all. D3/3S/700/4 are Nikon-designed, D7000/800/600 are Sony, and D3200 is a new Nikon sensor. More power to them - not being weighed down with their own fab means they can be more agile and source new sensor as they are available instead of being tied to one production process a la Canon.

hopefully it works, normally the authorised repair company in Austria, canon itself doesn't repair anything, wants to 'repair' it by themselves (expensive). As usual, asking doesn't cost anything.

I'll let you know on monday how the process here works!

thanks

I can only speak for the Mk3 2 x extender (as my 1.4 is a Mk2) which I am using on a 1 D4 with 300 F2.8 L IS Mk1 and 600 F4 L IS. On my gear it is significantly better than the Mk2 I owned and I would expect the difference to be greater on the Mk2 IS lenses.

I am confused by two technical terms in the camera specs, can anyone please explain the meaning and real life impact to me :-o ?

1. According to the specs, the 6d has an expanded "AF Working Range": "Center AF Point: EV -3 to 18 (at 73°F/23°C, ISO 100)" - see http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_6d...

• Since afaik all metering is done though the lens, (how) does the max. open aperture of the lens influence this af working range?
• Since the -2ev of the 5d3 is supposed to be nearly moonlight, does a -3ev rating make a difference for real life shots like darker wedding receptions or shots in dim-lit clubs?

2. The "Metering Range" for the 6d (and 60d btw) is "EV 0-20 (at 73°F/23°C with EF 50mm f/1.4 lens, ISO 100)", for the 5d3 "EV 1-20 (at 73°F / 23°C with 50mm f/1.4 lens at ISO 100)" ....

• Since a lens with a smaller max. open aperture will bump up the min. ev of the metering range, how does the difference between 5d3 ([email protected]) and 6d ([email protected]) matter for real life shots say with lenses of a max. open aperture with f2.8 or f4?

Now you're just being obtuse, Mikael.

+1 on the fuji 680, but quite heavy/bulky, more for studio use, the fuji 6x9 rangefinders are fun to use, kind of rollfilm Leica M; Fujinon lenses are truly first class.

I first switched to digital to replace the small format film, but I ended missing it, I used a Canon F-1 new, but I realized it was a bit stupid not to use all that modern EF glass I have and ended buying an EOS 1v. I have a lot of fun to use it, and will likely sell the F-1 and FD glass. 35mm film is more like a fun stuff to do for me, it hardly competes with digital for IQ, but still, I make different pictures with it.

4x5 is something else, it forces to carefully think the shot before you pull the trigger, but IMO it's worth it and competes still very well with digital IQ (I have a bunch of excellent Schneider lenses). It is simply a different kind of photography, opposite of the computerized imaging of digital work. I sometimes use 6x7 and 6x9 rollfilm backs on my linhof, since it allows me to use my enlarger (limited to 6x9) for B/W work, though I admit I got very lazy with enlargements the last 2 years, plus when I take the view camera outside, I feel it's a kind of wasted energy to make "only" rollfilms with it.

I really miss the Hasselblad, rollfilm is a kind of good compromise, and 120 films seem to be the easiest to find. Your are badly tempting me with the Fuji 680

I'll try to post some 4x5 negative as soon as I get some, but I do not have too much time for 4x5 pics these days.

Thanks guys, that kinda answered my question. Just to clarify though, it would be a fairly static setup. The 430 is sitting on the 5DII on TTL and the 580 is separate from the rest (and not within optical reach, that's why I can't go wireless without extra triggers). The 580 will be on full manual, synced through PC with my 5DII. I was just wondering if the PC sync port would give signal if a TTL flash is mounted on the hotshoe. And "yes" seems to be the answer.

I really envy those who have 600EX-RT lol.

Viggo said:

Smashing lenses makes me care less about the "review" and more about the idiots and their stupid waste of great equipment...

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They look like rich dudes.... they did a piece on the 5d3 vs D800 and smashed the 5d3 in the end... painful, but the review was hilarious...


Err Dylan might smack me for it... maybe it was a 10D

GuyF said:

Jeez dude, this is a camera forum! How many of the folks here would know a Dragon if it bit them on the ass? Hey, now there's a competition! Does any contributor own a 1DX, a Leica, a Nakamichi Dragon and, say, drive an original Merc gullwing? If they do, the prize is to buy everyone else a new lens ;D.

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Haha... you know what.... I started looking up Nak's on Feebay right after I made that post... some nice juicy PA-7's were just sold..... needed a fix.

I don't often do club-style photography, but recently I covered an afterparty at a pretty cool lounge here in Boston - I also use a 5D3, and my first move was setting ISO to 3200, which stayed relatively static all evening (some bumps and pulls here and there). I had my 580EXII mounted on-camera with a Lumiquest ProMax diffuser (my first time using it).
Lenses were either 50mm f/1.4 or 70-200 f/2.8L IS II for these shots. I prefer to shoot the 50 near 1.6 or 2.0, and usually opt for more candid and artistic shots than trying to pose everyone and get them all in focus,

Here are two shots with the 50 @ f/1.8, shutter speed 1/160-200, ISO 3200 with FEC at probably -1 (although i had the diffuser on which further lowers the perceived output)

The bottom shot is with the 70-200, at f/2.8 and shutter speed 1/50, ISO 3200

If you're shooting at f/4 you probably want to lower your shutter speed further. I'd say 1/25 or 1/30. Also try setting the flash to fire at second-curtain. Run through a range of FEC settings until you find something that gives a good balance of foreground and ambient light - often i find when reviewing images that the whole image, although it looks balanced, seems sort of dim and generally underexposed - for that you might try bumping up the ISO a notch if you notice it during the event. If it's too late, Lightroom works wonders

julesbgoes said:

Very bad replys , I never followed the camera world

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Yes, some really poor manners.
Welcome to CR. In spite of the 9 year old kiddie comments, there are lots of helpful people here who will try to answer your question in a respectful manner.
Whenever someone insults a member, click the report button and the post will be reviewed by a moderator and appropriate action taken.

RLPhoto said:

My only gripe is the lack of a multi-selector.

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... and I'm ok with this since I've got a 60d and am used to this - so even if it's a 5d2 repackage with better low-light af, wifi (nice) and gps (idotic) I'm considering it because it's €1000 cheaper than the 5d3. Well, it won't be long until the first reviews.

ScottyP said:

carlc said:

attn: bkorcel, I have an offer for you. How about I trade you a little of my kindness and respect for others for your eyesight? My sight is failing and I need all the help I can get through the viewfinder. And one more thought; you might be the answer to all my retirement needs: I just buy you for what your worth and sell you for what you think your worth....

bkorcel said:

PLEASE! If that is a reason to return your MK3 in favor of the 7D then you obviously spent too much money for your ability. GO ahead and return it or sell it and those of us who use the 5D3 will continue to turn out better pictures with less noise and higher resolution.

carlc said:

At least they should try to make the outline of the focus square box (selected AF point) bolder. At the current "very thin lines" it is very hard to find against any back ground but white. I shoot single point most of the time and compared to my 7D the 5DMkIII is a pain in the bippy. A bolder box should not affect metering unless the bolder lines will emit more light the instant it flashes red when focus is confirmed.

At this point I am considering the return of my MkIII and just go back to my 7D. Otherwise it is a wonderful camera body.

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A classy response to a nasty comment. Your attacker says you spent too much money for your ability level, but I think what he did was spend too much money for his comfort level, and it is making him hyper-defensive of the camera body to justify the purchase to himself.

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+1

RLPhoto - Put a lens to each ear and let's see! (Don't forget to take a self portrait!)

wickidwombat said:

Neutral said:

wickidwombat said:

Neutral have you tried mixing this with other HDR techniques? say -2EV and +2EV then using enfuse to blend
so a total of 27 shots? 3 combined super clean files blended together I think there is lots of potential with adapting this technique. Thanks for the find I cant wait to give it a go

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I did not try that but I think this could be very interesting.
Known issue for HDR is increasing image noise.
So having virtually noise free images from camera using ME could help get cleaner and better HDR images. When I look at some HDR images posted around I frequently want to take wet tissue and wipe that noise away as this is causing pain for my eyes)))

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Lr enfuse doesn't make eye rending abominations like photomatix it takes the exposures and blends them so no noise gain anyway. I suspect in combination with your method it will enable some super clean files

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I think this will definitely work as expected.
Will try that as well when have chance to do so.

Lighthouse light artifacts or ghosting? At long exposures every odd thing can produce this kind on efex.
At least 1-series starting from mk2 switch amp off when doing long exposures. Did yesterday 30 minutes shoot (1Ds3) and no problems. Only some hot/dead pixels when looking at pixel level.

I had tried shooting with all of those lenses except the Tokina for landscapes.

I've settled with the 17 TSE and 24-70 2.8 II landscape combo where I placed a preference in corner sharpness. The 17-40/16-35/14ii just didn't cut it for me even between f/8-f/16.

While the 24mm tse II is shaper than the 17mm tse, I found for tight spaces like interiors I just need the 17mm. Sometimes like along coastal shores, cliffs, or fenced off paths where the 17mm could be too wide the 24-70 is a good compromise providing versatility without the sacrifice in image quality. The additional 2.8 gives those rare few chances you want to experiment with long exposure astro-photography like shots as well.