Dylan777 said:

6D + 50mm f1.4 + 85mm f1.8 or 135L

Click to expand...

I'd go this route. Fast primes first. But depends on your type of photography.

Bought the 28 /2.8 non IS for the 30D back in 2011. Also worked quite well on the 5D3. Much lens for the money.

Lenscracker said:

I have a Sigma 24mm F/1.8. I like it enough that I actually sold my Canon 24-70mm F/2.8 L lens. The Sigma is better at F/1.8 than the Canon is at F2.8 at 24mm. My Sigma 50mm f1.4 is better at f1.4 than the Canon was at 2.8 and my Sigma 70mm F2.8 is better wide open than the Canon was at wide open 70mm.
The Sigma 70mm is really clunky and noisy but the image quality is superb. The Sigma 24 is also a terrific close up lens. I also use it at night on a tripod on the floor of my boat to capture night fishing action (with intervalometer). It is far superior to any of the zooms I have owned so far. However, I have not compared it directly to my Canon 16-35L II at f2.8.

Click to expand...

Very helpful post. Thank you so much! Much different to what photozone.de wrote about the siggy WA primes.

I will point out that the 70-300L is shorter (retracted) than the 70-200/4L - it fits vertically in many bags whereas a 70-200/4 would need to lay flat and take up two 'spaces' in the bag.

richlondoner said:

I will also be taking a 10-22 or the new 16-35.

Click to expand...

The 10-22 is an ultrawide zoom, the 16-35 is a wide-to-normal zoom (unless you're also bringing a FF camera for the 16-35). I'm not sure one is a substitute for the other.

IMO, the best APS-C standard zoom for travel is the 15-85.

agierke said:

never ever ever let anyone else (especially airline personnel) handle your cameras or lenses.

ever.

Click to expand...

So how do you ship them to Canon for repair?

optikus said:

Harry Muff said:

The advice I always give to people is simply to pretend they are holding a rifle. Seems to help them.

Click to expand...

Exactly that is, what I was told when starting to use longer lenses.

Click to expand...

Probably the NRA start a "shooting is good for your health" campaign :-> ... over here in Germany though there's a definitive lack of gun proliferation, not to my dismay as I might add, but the analogy is still valid and helpful.

G-V said:

Use a tripod ;D

Click to expand...

And tell all animals to please pose right in front of it in the correct distance and height ...

... fyi all: Yesterday I observed how I hold the camera and when, and with the great help from this thread imho my problem is a problem of these factors, I am confident it can be fixed:

1. Wrong left hand position when holding the lens & too little support from the left arm. Unfortunately, this really only works when holding the lens standing, is awkward when lying on the ground and not working at all when doing something else with your left hand (like supporting yourself or holding a flash which I often do).

2. Holding the camera only in the right hand when walking or not shooting, I need to put it in the other hand as often as possible and/or use a strap to lighten the load on the fingers

3. Unbalanced, heavier equipment: My problems only arose after buying a heavy lens and a large flash with flash bracket that puts more downward and rotational stress on my hand, at and the same time the hand strap didn't fit anymore worsening the problem - so at least need to get the hand strap attached again. With just a 60d+40/2.8 pancake lens it'd be a different story altogether...

Could the right photo have been done, or almost done, with an iPhone? Not saying it was, just wondering how close any of you think a smartphone could get to that (assuming the person shooting it was the least bit skilled as a photographer).

I get your point that the problem is the photographers were fired, and thus non-photographers are now responsible for taking pictures. I saw one of them interviewed on tv a couple of weeks ago. He was very passionate about his work.

The problem is, newspapers pretty much everywhere are losing money. Isn't the Sun-Times also? Explains why they would fire employees such as photographers. Then turn around and pretend they're being trendy by handing out iPhones to reporters...It's a shame the government can't do the same thing with their employees. Fire 90% of them, then pay the remaining ones a one time salary in the form of a smartphone...with no service plan included.

5D3 have abberation correction, so 24-105 should be fine for video, no need to apply correction later.
I don't know how good is IS in 24-105, but I own 100L and hybrid IS in it (similar to 24-70 f4) helps a lot for video, while on monopod or even handheld. As for wide end I got 24IS in march, and still impressed how good it is. And if 24-70 f4 have even better IS it should be realy great.

I'd love to get my hands on a 100-400L, but it's a really old lens so I'm not sure it's worth getting for a modern camera like my 6D...

tnargs said:

roadrunner said:

The only thing it is lacking is weather sealing and copy variance.

Click to expand...

That's code for quality control. :-\

Click to expand...

It might be a poor design as well, too sensitive to manufacturing tolerances.

Firstly, i'm not sure about the 6D at 12800iso vs the 5ds..i've never actually shot that high for a paid gig.
Especially for weddings, i don't think any couple would want photos taken at iso12800 with any camera to be used as an official photo.
To me, the high ISO is just a bonus for times when you need it for general shooting and personal use..i wouldn't use it for an official photo of any sorts. Personally, i try not to go above 1600 if i can help it.

I would go for faster and better glass IMO….there is a difference between a good 2.8 zoom vs an F4 one besides just the aperture…there's alot more to it than that.

My favourite combo for almost anything…the 5D3 with the 24-70mk2

I've slept with my gear around my neck... but never slept with my gear...

CliveB said:

From "The Other YN-622C User Guide" p.10:

Two-Shooter Setup (John UK technique)
A second shooter can share augmenting flashes. There is a problem – preventing the zooming and firing of the other camera’s on-top flash.
• Camera 1 set to E-TTL or Manual, and Firing Group A:B at some ratio/power.
• On-camera 622 set to Remote mode and Group C, with an on-top flash.
• Camera 2 set up the same.
• Enhancing flash stand with remote 622 set to Group B, plus flash.
• When either camera takes a shot, it's on-top flash is treated as Group A, the augmenting flash as Group B, and the other camera as Group C. Group C is not enabled in Firing Group A:B, so does not fire.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B77OmmGIg0gMVFpqNkpBYXBHajA

Click to expand...

Awesome!!! I seriously missed that. Thank you sir.

So, what do we do about topics/subjects which are very much photo related, but don't fall into gear or rumors, or a particular manufacturer sub-forum? How about a General Photo Talk sub-forum?

Canon 600D with 70-200mkII+2TC

Swphoto said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Glad to hear it was not a issue. They have never shipped a lens to me in a refurb box, but the bodies are usually shipped in a box marked refurb.

Click to expand...

If not a refurb box, what type of box do they come in? Every lens (and flash, and body) I've ordered from them, with the exception of the 70-200, has arrived in a white box that was labeled as refurbished (similar to the one below - not my image):

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/7928/img4109.jpg

Click to expand...

I think what he meant is that they do not come in a traditional Canon retail box. I've attached a couple of images of my recent refurb purchase, which I received early this week.

What surprised me most was that it actually came in a brown box, whereas I took "White Box" quite literally

Radiating said:

I'm personally not too crazy about a 14-24mm f/2.8 lens. I would much much rather Canon release a further updated 16-35mm f/2.8 III, specifically based on this insane lens patent:

16-35mm f/2.8 IS Pro Lens.

http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2013-01-06

f/2.8 3 ED elements 5 aspherical ones, and sharpness that rivals the 14-24mm wide open, AND image stabilization!

Internal focusing, low vignette.

I really would much rather have greater flexibility and greater focal range than an ultra wide angle that only does ultra wide, and worse than this proposed lens at that.

Anyone else feel the same way?

Click to expand...

Mostly I share your arguments except these about the lens design - I am not interested in numbers of special lens elements but the result. But: aspherical surfaces help to correct aberrations with ONE LENS ELEMENT and avoid large numbers of elements - vital for ultra wides which have light sources in the frame often to increase contrast and supress flares.

A 16-35 has - with its 35mm focal length some universal character - as you said. I am someone who thinks of 100 mm as standard focal length (in terms of FF) so 35mm is a strong wide angle lens for me, but still usable for a broad range of subjects and situations.

I think an improved close focus capability of 1:4@35mm would be very interesting ... and good IQ from center to corners in terms of contrast, good color reproduction and percepted sharpness.

neuroanatomist said:

Budget?

Dedicated space (permanent setup) or ad hoc (set up / tear down as needed)? If the former, look at wall-mounted background roll paper, ceiling mounts for monolights, etc. If the latter, a portable backdrop setup. In both cases, light stands, reflectors, flashes (or monolights), soft boxes, etc.

Maybe build a home studio cyclorama?

Click to expand...

Uh, you for got the NSFW tag... :-[

CarlTN said:

I like all of these, other than the first bridge shot. Hoping you shot some of the trees looking upwards.

As for the color, it's subtle in its saturation, but pretty natural looking. I've not been to that park yet, and only visited CA once so far. I did visit Muir Woods, but it was getting fairly late and I just had a cheap camera back then.

What resolution and bit depth do you scan these at? And when you edit in LR, are you editing a TIFF, DNG, JPG, or what?

What's your opinion of the Pentax 6x7? I need to sell a couple of bodies and some lenses used by a family member.

Click to expand...

Yea, that first bridge shot (the one across it) is kinda iffy. I thought the composition might work at the time, but didn't. I also think it was the last frame on the roll, so that's another reason why I went ahead and took it. I do have some with better tree photos that I took with my 5d3 and 17-40 (super-wide really came in handy!). I keep forgetting to upload to G+, but I have them here on Facebook if you want.

I'm mostly happy with the Ektar 100 I shot, although I Provia would probably be a bit better for landscapes if I want them in color. I'd like to visit Muir Woods, but obviously the two places are a good distance apart and I just had a couple of days.

Scanned these at 3200dpi, multi-exposure with VueScan software. Saved to TIFF, output to 1200px long edge JPG.

I haven't shot with the Pentax 6x7, this is the Mamiya RB67 6x7. I really like the format, although I think I'd like 6x9 format better if I shot more landscapes. As it is 6x7 has enough extra length along one edge to differentiate it's look from a 6x6 format, but still keeps the frame reasonably sized. I don't know much about the Pentax 6x7, so can't really help you there, but if you've got any Mamiya RB67 lenses/accessories, I might be interested. Shoot me a PM.

Re: New PowerShots, the A3500 IS, A2600, A1400 & Elph 130 IS

Hi I like PowerShot A2600 , it's the best LCD screen .


PowerShot A2600 key features:

16.0 Megapixels
28mm wide, 5x zoom lens; 10x ZoomPlus
7.5 cm (3.0″) LCD
Slim body with metal exterior
HD movies (720p) with movie button
Smart Auto plus Help button
Digital IS
Face Detection, Live View Control
Eco mode
Fun and creative effects

That is some very nice color into the blue spectrum, great shot!

I too hope you are able to recover your files!

nice. I wonder how they will compare with against the Pixel Kings
ive just gone through the manual and the site and made a quick little video on these.

Enjoy
http://youtu.be/jpo6s4knddM

I end up getting the 430ex II.
The reason why I did not take 270ex ii is for off camera, last time I check no applicable wireless trigger for our 6D.
and optical trigger will not be effective for 270ex, be sensor of 270ex is in front, how am I suppose to trigger it outdoor if I get 90ex.

I recently read YN-622c now support 6D.
Too late now.
Anyway I am also happy with 430ex ii, but still too big for small occasion,
Wish 270ex can be master.

My guess is that the SamBowRok Lenses have some special interior "mount" where the Canon/Nikon/Sony/... mount is screwed in. As the nikon mount has a longer flange distance, the F->EF adapter is a pipe with some dents at the right place.
There seems to be no obvious problem with your solution...

great shots I can see at this