Prevent Dust into lenses

Dust is in the air. Lenses lenses that extend while zooming or focusing pull air into the lens. As long as they pull air into the lens, you need a filter to catch the dust. A shroud does little if anything, since it does not filter dust. You could seal them air tight, but then, you could not zoom or focus.
Perhaps if you added a air filter, it would help, but you don't want to force the lens to pull air in from the rear, dust in the rear is a serious issue, it means nothing in the front.
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70D ante portas?

http://www.canonwatch.com/

From readers, we have to provide information about the new Canon products next.

• New product next Canon seems to be a EOS 70D.
• And Kit with EF-S18-55mm IS STM, Kit with EF-S18-135mm IS STM is prepared lens kit (because it is information from overseas ※, might be different from the kit in Japan).
• Battery Grip BG-E14 is prepared.


This is the information from the person who has received to provide correct information several times in the past. New product next to the Canon it seems expensive can become and related products EOS 70D.

For the presentation time of 70D, there was a rumor a variety so far, seems to be the story of the destination so apparently. In addition, the new interchangeable lens at the same time as 70D may or may not appear, it is unclear at the moment.

EOS 1-Bodies: Compatibility with AF-confirm adapters

Hi,

thank you for your post - that's absolute correct - never glue a piece of anything onto an adapter, it may fall into the camera and short circuit it.

No - what I did is something different. I glued the switch-lever to the upper end of it's possible way and fixed it in the upper position.

And after doing that, my adapters worked peferctly well, identical to the behaviour, when applied a little pice of paper under the switch to push it up. BUT - it was no more possible to mount an EF-Lens - there must be a mechanical problem to do this - with a little bit more power you can mount a EF-Lens and turn it into its lock-position, but the lever of the switch is released from it's fixed position. Why? And what mechanism does it?

Joerg
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AFMA - Is is really necessary?

I think a lot of photographers get obsessed by their image sharpness, investing in expensive camera bodies and high end L lenses only to then look at shots at 100%+ and "see" softness.

A lack of sharpness can be down to many other factors other than AFMA - shutter speed, subject movement, ISO noise, out of focus, etc. can all impact on image sharpness.

I would say when I get an unsharp image it's usually down to my fault for not getting everything correct when I am shooting. My focusing is off or my shutter speed hasn't been fast enough to freeze any movement.

I would expect on a expensive body like the 5D3 that you should be able to put virtually any L glass onto it and get sharp results with no AFMA - unless the body or lens is faulty.

It was a worthwhile excercise for me to buy FoCal and calibrate my lenses as it has told me that my lenses are "Okay" quality wise as they only required slight AFMA and I now have an easy method for re-calibrating anc checking in the future.

FoCal does make it easy, especially as I have never done any AFMA before and I managed to calibrate all my lenses in just over an hour at first attempt.
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Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 DG OS (new) impressions

meenanm said:
TWI by Dustin Abbott said:
Big question - other than the focus being perhaps a hair off, how fast and, most importantly, how accurate do you feel the focus is?
Focus is fast. Not quite as fast as the Canon 400 f2.8 II. But its pretty fast. Fast enough for sports. As to the accuracy, not ready to put a stamp on it yet due to the back focus. I had some misses. Not an exceptional number of misses for a softball game. Some that surprised me were the longer shots. For instance shooting an outfielder with center focus, I caught the fence more often than I thought I would.

Update: I just spent some time tweaking the focus with the doc. I reset the 1Dx micro back to 0. I eventually worked my way up to a -15 setting on over 100'+. At that setting it is sharp! I then started working on the 120, 150 and 200 mm settings. I did not have time to put on the 5DIII and test it with the updates. I'll do a full review soon.

Suggestion, if you buy this lens, get the dock. Not sure if my situation is typical, but without it, I'd be calling Sigma or considering returning it.
-Mike

I used to have the previous model (OS) and mine was certainly sharp at 300mm f2.8...if yours isn't, it's either missing focus or it's out of adjustment. One of the nice things with this lens is that it's wide open sharpness is excellent. My copy's AF seemed a bit hit and miss, or slightly erratic.
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Advice needed on plan to buy a EOS 1D Mk ii, or iii

Interesting and timely thread for me as I am debating which body is next. I have 1DsMk3 and 5DMk3 bodies. My work has a mix of needs, but no sports or birds, wildlife. Events, yes, architecture, real estate, hospitalty, portraits. I like to use lights. So I have a vision of two of each, so when I go to anything I can put two of the same bodies on me so the control features are the same during that session. I pick the kind of body the assignment calls for. I know Canon might throw a monkey wrench into the works by tempting me later this year with some new body, but that's the working plan.

Good to hear others' ideas/suggestions about the contribution and capabilities of older tech.

Yes, I am always aware of 1DsMk3's ISO limits but the other stuff is sweet. Got the 1Ds in late February so feel I am still getting to know what it can and can't do. I love the solidity and its shutter sound. It just feels like a real camera. But to be sober about the realities of "gear" this 1d may have a slightly flaky USB circuit board. So multiple bodies are a must. Best to have two of each in case one fails.
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430EX II for £155 delivered (after rebate)

Hannes said:
even my cheapo yongnou does give off a AF pattern that works well, I can't imagine everything is right with your camera. Try doing a factory reset on the camera.

Thanks for the response, it made me think for possible camera settings I've disabled.
Indeed I remember and have encountered familiar setting before,
and disable it on my 6D, thinking that 6D has a built in AF-Assist light and don't want to use it.
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Lens Review Request: Canon 400mm f2.8 IS II

Dylan777 said:
I guess...not many people interested :'(

I still have hope for CR review :)

Just curious, but what would you like to know about the lens that you cannot read in the other reviews (such as TDP's which I linked to earlier)?

It is the best 400mm f/2.8 in the world, and has numerous benefits over version i.
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When out & about, how do y'all respond to gear small talk?

I have met some nice guys and exchanged names and phone numbers. Unfortunately I have also met disgusting professionals!

Now, please professionals DO NOT TAKE ME WRONG. I am not making generalizations in any way. I am just stating the fact (It's a long story...)

Same, previous year I met other people (from different countries) and had exchanged names, contacts and we even went out together that day.
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$1000 .. what to buy

neuroanatomist said:
tron said:
neuroanatomist said:
I notice you left off the 300/2.8L IS II from your list...
Are you thinking of it as a lighter/smaller alternative to 600 (perhaps with a 2X) ?

Partly. But primarily for sports, as my daughters get to that point...
You are not thinking of making someone crazy by shooting first with your Canon S100 ps camera and then presenting the 1DX/300mm 2.8 combo after he shows you his "super" digital rebel as THE camera :o ? (The crocodile Dundee case...)
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100L vs. 135L

GMCPhotographics said:
funkboy said:
That is exactly the point I was (sleepily) trying to make: I'd guesstimate that 9 in 10 of the folks on forums that say "my copy of lens X is sharper than lens Y, I've tested them both" didn't actually calibrate their AFMA before they did their "testing", and it's awfully rare that anyone mentions that they actually *did* check AFMA beforehand. The same likely goes for people returning lenses because they got a "bad copy"...

Guys, I'm not in the habit of posting any of my files at 100% on a public forum. I've been using my 85IIL and 135L in a professional manner for nearly six years now. I've used them both on my 5D/5DII and currently 5DIII camera progressions. Since the 5DII became available, I have microadjusted every lens which I currently use. I use Lensalign pro by Colorvision. I've used this to test everything from my Siggi 12-24mm through to a 400mm f2.8 L IS with a 2x TC on it.
My comments about my particular copy of the 85IIL and 135L have been observed on a consistent basis over the last six years. My second photographer's 135L seems a little sharper than mine, but her 85IIL isn't quite as sharp as mine, this is on her own 5DII's which are calibrated to her lenses. It's not MA in these cases but production variance in the optics. It's a good reason why I don't tend to trawl online lens charts becuase each lens is slightly different and most sites only test a few copies at best.
So when I say that my copy of the 85IIL is a tad sharper than my 135L, the emphasis here is on the MY copy. Your milage might vary somewhat.
Judging optical resolution is only one aspect of a lens...we all know how bad the purple fringing is with the 85IIL...and the AF is no ball of fire...or that the drive by wire AF feels a little weird to use...or that it weights almost as much as a 70-200 in a lens which is about 1/4 of the size.
But given the choice, I'd rather use the 85IIL over a 135L.

Interesting, but that preference is really mostly due to the wider field of view, and perspective, from having less focal length...is it not? No doubt you love the color and bokeh.

I've only rented the 85 f/1.2L once. I liked it, but overall not as much as my 135L. Certainly the focus by wire and slowness of AF is not useful. The sharpness by f/5.6 at infinity doing landscape, exceeded that of my 135. But below f/5.6, my 135 was sharper...at or near infinity focus. At closer focus, the plane is so shallow with both lenses, that it really comes down to which bokeh and field of view you prefer, in my opinion. For doing most portrait work, certainly the wider field of view could work better, it seems to me.

I do wish there was a zoom, perhaps from 90 to 125mm or 140mm...that would be ideal. Maybe f/1.4, 1.6. or 1.8. It would likely be light enough to use (much smaller/lighter than the 200 f/2), but larger/heavier than the 85 f/1.2. Of course if Canon built it, it would cost $7k. But they, and all lens makers, are scared to death to build anything with a front element around 90mm. For some reason they all have to either be 77mm, or else jump to 125mm. All of you successful pros would be touting it as mind-blowing, and telling the rest of us that we owe it to ourselves to try one...hahaha.
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How ready is your camera gear usually?

My backpack is always packed this is where may camera lives the only extras I might pick up are tripod/monopod and my flash I don't carry the flash all the time as it takes up too much space. Keeping everything in one bag ready to go is how I have to store everything for when we are on a road trip and hubby really has no idea what I have. ;) ::)
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