Viggo said:

I will buy one, I was suppose to get a Heliopan HT, those are without filterthreads in front, and that is essential, the thinner the filter the less it affects vignetting, and the 24-70 mk2 is bad with vignetting, really bad imo.

You turn for every shot almost, well, not all, but if you flip the camera from horisontal to vertical, you need to turn to get the effect, but this goes without thinking after a short while.

DO NOT use a pol-filter as a replacement for a protector or UV, because it steals at least one stop of light, so might as well get a 24-105 instead.

I love pol filters, but beware of 24mm and pol filter, you will get very uneven polarization, still, I try to do a compromise and use it anyway,

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Yeah, that actually why I never got one for my 24/1.4. I guess I will just get the B+W MRC UV, perhaps the slim version to protect the big and juicy front element

Some will already know this, but I presume not everyone knows about Rob Galbraith's site.

Both statements below are correct as far as I know. Canon does not yet support the latest SD standard, and even the newest SD cards are a big source of the bottleneck since they fail to perform anywhere near the specifications. Check http://www.robgalbraith.com/multi_pagee519.html?cid=6007 if you want a real eye-opener about which combinations of cards and gear will actually deliver the juice. SD burst rates are usually under 20MB/sec, with the best CF cards going 4x as fast for my bodies.

Under Rob Galbraith's tests very few SD cards perform well at all so I stick to CF and take care to pair the card with both my camera and USB 3.0 card reader. This discipline recently forced me to shift from SanDisk Extreme CF cards to Lexar 1000x CF cards since the latest SanDisk cards aren't delivering promised write speeds. I do not know if issues stem in part from camera designs versus card designs, but noticed that the results look similar for current Nikon cameras (which is at least suggestive that the cards are more to blame).

Rob's tests allow the advanced amateur/pro to find what works for her specific equipment. Yes, the database is perpetually incomplete, but it is put together by one person who has a lot else to do and it takes days to test one camera type or card. He's providing a great service to the community, and I recommend everyone check it out and remain grateful for the sacrifices of time and money Rob makes for us.

jdramirez said:

dgatwood said:

That's odd. Most of the performance bottleneck is usually caused by the speed of the card, not anything inherent to the device that is writing/reading data, and last I checked, the fastest SD cards had almost the same write speed as the fastest CF cards, to within +/- 10% or so.

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I don't believe the mkiii uses uhs sd cards... so it is limited to maybe 45 mbs or so, but the 1000x cf cards write at 90mbs.

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It is most likely a reaction between zinc from sunscreen and the rubber. I have heard of several people having this happen, and to various brands of camera (Canon, Nikon, Panasonic). As long as it is just surface corrosion you can use a mild cleaner and a toothbrush, then rinse and dry...... should be as good as new.

It should also be mentioned that insect repellant, particularly those that use DEET, can disolve paint and turn rubber gripos into a sticky goo...... gotta be carefull out in the woods....

thanks Neuro,
the major problem is the iso lock to 400
i can't get rid of it in any mode either AV or M

and the worse thing, even when i don't use the flash in e-ttl

somehow the camera locks the iso 400 if a flash unit is connected over it.. doesn't matter the other settings..
if you want to take wide angle shots based in high iso the subject is lit in front from the flashgun and the background goes black with that stupid iso400.

A continuous led light insted of flash probably would save a lot of trouble but even then you'll have to play with the amount of light, (tune up for portraits and tele shooting, tune down when using wide angle)

pffff i got stressed

Stopping down to introduce diffraction is certainly one way to solve the problem. Another option might be to get a fine portrait softening filter, which would do the same thing, without eliminating your ability to use wider apertures if you need to blur out backgrounds or anything like that.

I suspect moire will become more of a problem as time goes on. All Canon cameras have AA filters, however they are being weakened. I can't imagine shooting portraits with a D800E or D7100...which completely lack AA filters. Personally, I'm an advocate for having an AA filter strong enough to avoid moire (which is the entire point in the first place). Most people complain about how "soft" the 7D is, however I'm happy to claim that I've never encountered moire from too weak an AA filter in any of my bird photography.

I certainly hope that the future doesn't continue to hold weaker AA filters, or none at all, as a general theme. I'd be rather dismayed if that ended up being the case.

Pancake for the babay! Adorable!

In my frugalness, I should have bought these 600s when released. They save me a lot of time. I got 5x RTs for 373 refurbished. I don't plan to sell these off anytime soon.

I've never heard of hugin software, I'll have to check it out. I use autopano giga for all of my stitching, and shoot plenty of landscape and lifestyle pictures with on average of 15-40 shots per image anywhere from 28-300mm.

Things to keep in mind

1. How much is it worth, is it an amazing shot and taking the time to collect all these 300mm shots is worth it, or...

2. Always over shoot the outer frame of your panoramas. I can't stress this enough. Ill have a vision of what I want hanging on my wall, and then when I get back and stitch them together there isn't enough edge room for the composition I had in mind.

3. Content-Aware fill cannot fix everything

4.main basics - Set whitebalance to something other than auto, avoid lens flare at all cost, always overshoot, use a tripod if you can, check your focus before you start shooting and switch to MF to avoid accidents, keep close objects at equal distances away from you in wide panoramas (two support pillars in a 360 garage panorama, make sure you are an equal distance between them, etc)

I'd list more but I'm on a shoot this week and need some sleep. my flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnroach/ contains plenty of good examples.

Thank you for the all the info, keep it coming, if it is regarding best practices for beginner.

Now I have these infos at the back of my head, it is time to apply and play with it.

The 135mm L is my most used lens, even though I haven't used it since I bought my 70-200mm MK II, it is so far ahead of the closed one that it would take years with no use to fall into 2nd place.

not sure what to look for. I see brick patterns, textured stone, pretty gritty textured wall overall.

Don Haines said:

paul13walnut5 said:

Scott911 said:

Overall, I like the decision. BUT, and it's a big BUT - the IS tech should be included for no more than $200 extra.

Canon puts IS into a kit lenses that might cost them $75 to make - so let's pretend the IS stuff in there costs canon $10.

Let them upscale it all because it's going into an "L" lens. So they spend TWENTY times more on the IS for the "L" lens.

And then price the L's IS at $200 more than the non IS version.

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Yeah, ok, but you assume that there is no difference in the elements within the IS group, are the IS elements not larger than the non IS, so as to permit a full image circle even with a moved group? Would these larger elements not require to be sharp accross the whole field as they potentially could be used much closer to the edge once shifted in an IS movement? Are these elements not made of better quality glass than the £75 lenses? Would there not be a significant R&D spend to recoup from the L lenses, which may sell in the thousands rather than the £75 kit lenses that sell in their 100's of thousands, if not millions?

I'm just asking because if it was as simple as bolting an IS motor on, I'm sure Canon would have thought of that already.

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I think that if all you did was bolt on a motor, you would decrease the iq of the lens....

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I think that was kind of my point.

Rienzphotoz said:

Phil L said:

Here's an alligator from a few weeks back crunching a fresh caught blue crab that it found in the salt marsh.
The gators here don't live in the salt water but they will occasionally visit the salt marsh area to look for a meal such as this crab.

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Nice shot

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Thanks very much.

My MarkIII started locking up when filming a concert, then started showing only a white screen or going pink or red
or green when taking pictures. Sent it back to Canon and say it a warranty issue and are replacing the Main Board.
Only problem is after a week and a half no one can tell me when they will get the parts to fix it. The repair loop
has no part to fix this problem. I'm really disappointed with this set of issues, and will probably dump the MarkIII
when I get it back, whenever that will be... purchased in Nov. 2012. No parts at the repair facility for a possible
known issue is unexcuseable...... my customers would not accept such a situation.

If I only had a dollar for every claimed breakthrough that never makes it to the market.

It would be great to have such a device, but I'm not going to stop buying cameras for the next XX years while they figure out how to actually make it.

How long ago did Black Silicon claim to be the next new thing? First developed back in the 1980's, and we still do not see DSLR's using it. They put out a new press release every few years with wonderful claims, hoping to snag more money from investors.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_silicon

Thanks for the replies. I was looking at the test results over at The Digital Picture and the results really don't convince me the mk3 TC would be significantly better than the Kenko. The 2x is only really used in an "emergency" so I may have to look at the more (much more) expensive options.

Now to try and sell the 300mm and justify a 500mm f4.....

Regards.

The original poster hasnt made it absolutely clear that he was paid for the work other than "paid simple work". SO they hire you, and pay you now you want to be paid extra because you think they can use the work other than what you thought they were going to use it for. I think if this is the case the photographer is unreasonable in the absence of a specified contract. WHat business is it of yours what they do with the photos, if you were paid?

Quite unlike the numerous examples of those who think they can rip off a photographer by using his work without permission, just because he has fun doing what he does.

Re: Patents: New 50mm, 85mm & 135mm Lenses

tron said:

candyman said:

RLPhoto said:

If the New 135L is non-IS, fail.

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And no f/1.8 too

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May I ask if you have anything against a wonderful f/2.0 aperture ? 8)

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Actually I forgot to put sarcasm quotes referring to RLphoto's remark. He repeatedly mentioned in other threads that he is dreaming / wishing for a 135mm f/1.8
Personally I like f/2 but would love to have IS. Currently the non-IS is around 1000 euro. The IS will probably 1,5 the current price.

I have a 1Ds MkII. I sit at home all night, alone, watching auctions on eBay sadly seeing its value get lower and lower. Many sell for around $900 - $1000. So $800-$900 is a good price. I don't know much about the lens.

But it really depends if there are any features on the 1Ds Mkii that are of interest or important to you. It does some things better than the 5Dii, just as the 5Dii does some things better than the 1Ds Mkii.

Zoo, oh yes I remember that ... been a long time since I've been to one ... our local zoo closed for renovation which will take 3 to 5 years to complete

Anyone have any experience with different vendors and their metal prints? Thoughts on quality, different finishes (ie. brushed satin, high gloss etc.), colors, mounting / framing quality?

Thanks!!!

Awesome... now just got to find one for sale! There is a limited range of second hand lenses here in India!

tpatana said:

jdramirez said:

tpatana said:

jdramirez said:

I'm surprised that the write speed are only between 10-20 mbs. any idea what the write speeds are in the 60d? I upgraded from a class four to a class ten and it seemed crazy fast... then I started shooting in both raw and jpg and it seemed slow, but I assumed it was still faster than the old class four.

as I have said, I use both c.f. and sd at the moment, but I will likely remove the sd when I shoot sports.

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How you define crazy fast? You buffer never went full while shooting raw? 60D could have same SD controller (at best) than 5D3, so 10-20MB/s is probably max.

Also C10 is not that much if you look the spec minimums, it's 10MB/s (or more).

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crazy fast: shooting in large jpg, 18 megapixels, and getting 60+ shots at 5.3 shots per second without filling up the buffer and no slowing.

I got tired before the camera did...

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Ok. Did the camera choke when you were using C4 card?

At least with any CF (most bodies I assume), you can shoot jpg any duration you want, until you fill up the card.

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it has been a while, but yeah, the buffer filled after about 8 shots or so... I don't know if I pushed the boundaries of the buffer with my 5d, but I will eventually.

I tried manual, but it has to be changed if the light level changes substantially. Finally, I went back to auto and that works better for me.

I'd do which ever works for you, there is no right or wrong involved.

mwh1964 said:

Great feature. Use it when needed and no, there isn't any real life disadvantages.

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Actually, yes there are real-life disadvantages. ~3 FPS max vs ~6 FPS max normal, and it also has a greater shutter lag than in normal mode.

Now, that said, I often shoot in silent shutter. Makes me a lot more unobtrusive