Crumpler 6 or 7 million dollar home.

You guys are right,
we couldn't figure this out because it was photoshopped involving layers and stuff.

Thank you very much!!!

CarlTN said:

ecka said:

CarlTN said:

ecka said:

Yes. I agree.
The lack of third party RAW processing software support doesn't help as well.

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Are you saying you can't process the foveon's RAW images with third party software? Because myself and most others who used it, did so with no trouble. I have not heard of a lack of support for the new Merrill sensor, if that is what you're saying. So that's news to me. You're saying Lightroom 4 cannot open Merrill RAW files?

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Yes. I was talking about Merrill RAW files, Adobe has no support for them yet. However, previous generations of Foveon RAW are supported.

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I wonder if LR 5 will support the Merrill RAW files from any of their bodies?

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I hope so

My new twins...1 month old...
It took a month to have the energy to take the DSLR out and take some photos....
Previous were Fuji X10 snapshots...

Just saw this when I went to sign in my Nikon Image Space account

http://info.nikonimagespace.com/trouble_info/00027/?lang=en_US

Thank you for using “NIKON IMAGE SPACE”.

It has come to our attention that new accounts for 43 users created between 12:10 pm, Thursday, June 6, and 10:00 pm, Tuesday, June 11, 2013 (all dates/times in Japan Standard Time) can be accessed by another 43 users, and vice versa. This means that accounts for a total of 86 users can each be accessed by two users—the actual account holder and one other user. Random account access by various users is not possible. This is the result of a problem with the “NIKON IMAGE SPACE” system.

After examining the system, we found evidence that the images and membership information (name, nickname, e-mail address, telephone number) of 32 of those users had been accessed in some way without the user's knowledge.

Immediately after this problem was detected, we identified the cause, implemented measures to prevent recurrence, and confirmed that it had not occurred with more than the 32 users identified.

However, to prevent the situation from becoming any worse, all of the original 86 users, including the 32 indicated above, affected by these problems remain unable to log-in to their accounts.

In addition to this announcement, we have e-mailed affected users individually with a report of the problems and our sincerest apologies. We will continue to assist affected users in good faith.

*Worldwide distribution of 32 affected users
8 in Japan, 11 in the U.S., 3 in Italy, 2 each in Spain, Germany, and Australia,
1 each in the U.K., France, Belgium, and Malaysia

At Nikon, we have worked continuously to strengthen and ensure the security of personal information. Therefore, we take problems like this one very seriously. We will perform a complete inspection of the “NIKON IMAGE SPACE” system to prevent them from happening again and to restore reliability.

We sincerely apologize for any trouble, concern, or worry these system problems have caused users of “NIKON IMAGE SPACE”.

Details

1. Cause
────────────────────────────────────────────
There were problems with the “NIKON IMAGE SPACE” internal program updated on June 6, 2013 (Thursday). Usually, with new membership registration, a unique number, used for internal management of accounts, is assigned to each member. Over the span of several days, however, several of the same numbers were assigned to two new members.
2. Response
────────────────────────────────────────────
Immediately after this problem was detected, we identified the cause, implemented measures to prevent recurrence, and confirmed that it had not occurred with more than the 32 users identified. Finally, the internal program was corrected at 6:30 pm on June 14, 2013 (Friday) to ensure that these unique internal management numbers are not assigned to more than one user or account.
3. Measures to prevent recurrence
────────────────────────────────────────────
Nikon takes this problem very seriously indeed. Not only will a revision of system design and quality standards be implemented, but the monitoring system and items monitored to ensure consistency of data will be reinforced to prevent future inconsistencies and restore reliability.

We hope that you will continue to use “NIKON IMAGE SPACE”.

Don't forget to gel your flash to match the ambient light if you're mixing flash. I always keep a 1/4, 1/2 and full CTO precut gel in a little plastic bag inside the speedlite case at all times. For more serious stuff I use the Honl gels filter set and speed strap.

Everything said about equivalence, etc., is correct but it is also a well kept secret that the 7D has problems with blue skies, even for a crop body. The crop Nikon cameras are much better in that respect.

Drizzt321 said:

Yea, he's very good. My best friend, and mostly the reason I've gotten pulled into various small production stuff. His IMDB page if you want. If you're ever in LA, feel free to PM me and get in touch even if it's just to have a few drinks or a bite to eat.

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I checked his IMDB page, thank you for the link. I'd be very glad to meet you both, I'm planning to cross the ocean next year and chances are that I'll end up just in LA, so... who knows!

I use Av nearly all the time on my Canon 7D... however when I shoot birds (and occasionally planes) - it is then that I use Tv - and usually set the shutter speed at 1/2000 sec.

Auto ISO - often between 100 and 1600 - and usually if there is some daylight, I'm fine. In less light, that's when things get tricky (though panning shots can work - if you are experienced enough). I have a 70-300mm L that I use for most 'birds in flight' (or plane) photos.

Definitely do use spot metering, as often other modes can underexpose. And for AF settings - I use Servo mode and the central zone AF area or the version with 'focus assist points' enabled.

Best wishes.

Paul

So I guess we can all agree that a 28-55 f/1.8 with a design similar to Sigma's 18-35 f/1.8 would be big, heavy, and expensive.

However, I still believe a full frame faster-than-2.8 zoom is possible with some additional compromises in aperture and focal range. Maybe with an all new design (external zoom instead?), something like a 28-50 f/2 or 35-85 f/2 lens could be possible. Or even a variable aperture 24-70 f/1.8-2.8 lens.

bglanzbe said:

Another question for the group. If I go with the 6D upgrade from the T2i (rather than the 7D), what is the most portable and lightweight speedlight that you would recommend?

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I have a 430 ex and it is really good for indoor close work... but I wouldn't mind if it were more powerful. I might mull over the 600 in a year or two.

How can we reach the full movie? I like to watch that movie....

Just a quick pic of an anhinga fishing this morning in the marsh. Lighting was not too great with overcast skies.

So I've recently started shooting with an old Pre-WWII Mamiya Six II/III (10x10mm waist viewfinder), it's great, but I'm trying to figure out how to use a flash with it (probably get an older, small pocketable flash). There's no pc-sync port that I see. You can find some images at Camera-Wiki, and the specific model I have has this specific lens/shutter/mount. Note, this is not mine, but I can provide images of my specific camera if needed. So, anyone shot with this style back (way back) in the day? Or will I have to cobble together my own method for triggering a flash if I want to use one with this?

Niki said:

for me the 5d mIII

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I agree.

youtube.com/watch?v=OkwP80Tt_VU

I saw this review for It awhile back, as a budget dslr video shooter it seems intriguing, but only interesting practically at best

Viggo said:

I will buy one, I was suppose to get a Heliopan HT, those are without filterthreads in front, and that is essential, the thinner the filter the less it affects vignetting, and the 24-70 mk2 is bad with vignetting, really bad imo.

You turn for every shot almost, well, not all, but if you flip the camera from horisontal to vertical, you need to turn to get the effect, but this goes without thinking after a short while.

DO NOT use a pol-filter as a replacement for a protector or UV, because it steals at least one stop of light, so might as well get a 24-105 instead.

I love pol filters, but beware of 24mm and pol filter, you will get very uneven polarization, still, I try to do a compromise and use it anyway,

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Yeah, that actually why I never got one for my 24/1.4. I guess I will just get the B+W MRC UV, perhaps the slim version to protect the big and juicy front element

Some will already know this, but I presume not everyone knows about Rob Galbraith's site.

Both statements below are correct as far as I know. Canon does not yet support the latest SD standard, and even the newest SD cards are a big source of the bottleneck since they fail to perform anywhere near the specifications. Check http://www.robgalbraith.com/multi_pagee519.html?cid=6007 if you want a real eye-opener about which combinations of cards and gear will actually deliver the juice. SD burst rates are usually under 20MB/sec, with the best CF cards going 4x as fast for my bodies.

Under Rob Galbraith's tests very few SD cards perform well at all so I stick to CF and take care to pair the card with both my camera and USB 3.0 card reader. This discipline recently forced me to shift from SanDisk Extreme CF cards to Lexar 1000x CF cards since the latest SanDisk cards aren't delivering promised write speeds. I do not know if issues stem in part from camera designs versus card designs, but noticed that the results look similar for current Nikon cameras (which is at least suggestive that the cards are more to blame).

Rob's tests allow the advanced amateur/pro to find what works for her specific equipment. Yes, the database is perpetually incomplete, but it is put together by one person who has a lot else to do and it takes days to test one camera type or card. He's providing a great service to the community, and I recommend everyone check it out and remain grateful for the sacrifices of time and money Rob makes for us.

jdramirez said:

dgatwood said:

That's odd. Most of the performance bottleneck is usually caused by the speed of the card, not anything inherent to the device that is writing/reading data, and last I checked, the fastest SD cards had almost the same write speed as the fastest CF cards, to within +/- 10% or so.

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I don't believe the mkiii uses uhs sd cards... so it is limited to maybe 45 mbs or so, but the 1000x cf cards write at 90mbs.

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It is most likely a reaction between zinc from sunscreen and the rubber. I have heard of several people having this happen, and to various brands of camera (Canon, Nikon, Panasonic). As long as it is just surface corrosion you can use a mild cleaner and a toothbrush, then rinse and dry...... should be as good as new.

It should also be mentioned that insect repellant, particularly those that use DEET, can disolve paint and turn rubber gripos into a sticky goo...... gotta be carefull out in the woods....

thanks Neuro,
the major problem is the iso lock to 400
i can't get rid of it in any mode either AV or M

and the worse thing, even when i don't use the flash in e-ttl

somehow the camera locks the iso 400 if a flash unit is connected over it.. doesn't matter the other settings..
if you want to take wide angle shots based in high iso the subject is lit in front from the flashgun and the background goes black with that stupid iso400.

A continuous led light insted of flash probably would save a lot of trouble but even then you'll have to play with the amount of light, (tune up for portraits and tele shooting, tune down when using wide angle)

pffff i got stressed

Stopping down to introduce diffraction is certainly one way to solve the problem. Another option might be to get a fine portrait softening filter, which would do the same thing, without eliminating your ability to use wider apertures if you need to blur out backgrounds or anything like that.

I suspect moire will become more of a problem as time goes on. All Canon cameras have AA filters, however they are being weakened. I can't imagine shooting portraits with a D800E or D7100...which completely lack AA filters. Personally, I'm an advocate for having an AA filter strong enough to avoid moire (which is the entire point in the first place). Most people complain about how "soft" the 7D is, however I'm happy to claim that I've never encountered moire from too weak an AA filter in any of my bird photography.

I certainly hope that the future doesn't continue to hold weaker AA filters, or none at all, as a general theme. I'd be rather dismayed if that ended up being the case.

Pancake for the babay! Adorable!

In my frugalness, I should have bought these 600s when released. They save me a lot of time. I got 5x RTs for 373 refurbished. I don't plan to sell these off anytime soon.

I've never heard of hugin software, I'll have to check it out. I use autopano giga for all of my stitching, and shoot plenty of landscape and lifestyle pictures with on average of 15-40 shots per image anywhere from 28-300mm.

Things to keep in mind

1. How much is it worth, is it an amazing shot and taking the time to collect all these 300mm shots is worth it, or...

2. Always over shoot the outer frame of your panoramas. I can't stress this enough. Ill have a vision of what I want hanging on my wall, and then when I get back and stitch them together there isn't enough edge room for the composition I had in mind.

3. Content-Aware fill cannot fix everything

4.main basics - Set whitebalance to something other than auto, avoid lens flare at all cost, always overshoot, use a tripod if you can, check your focus before you start shooting and switch to MF to avoid accidents, keep close objects at equal distances away from you in wide panoramas (two support pillars in a 360 garage panorama, make sure you are an equal distance between them, etc)

I'd list more but I'm on a shoot this week and need some sleep. my flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnroach/ contains plenty of good examples.

Thank you for the all the info, keep it coming, if it is regarding best practices for beginner.

Now I have these infos at the back of my head, it is time to apply and play with it.