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May 18, 2013 · May 18, 2013

They are applied at the processing stage.

You need to install some kind of LUT plug-in to your edit suite (see Magic bullet LUT Buddy)

http://www.redgiant.com/products/all/magic-bullet-lut-buddy/

This lets you apply a gamma/rgb curve in post to lift or crunch certain ranges in your image, with the 'flat style' being the best possible starting point for the associated LUT.

Zv · May 18, 2013

gjones5252 said:
magic lantern on the 5dm2 the one it seems to work on.
Did the wedding today and still had troubles.
It is like when in av and ettl the camera and flash do not communicate(may also be in other mode but just not manual) no matter how i change the settings it is still blown out by a considerable amount. And this is with iso static at 100. no and the aperture set at what ever applicable for photo. and high speed sync to ensure it can acquire necessary shutter speed.
It is driving me nuts. in Manual mode on camera i can get it but i feel like i used to us AV and ETTL all the time.
probably me just not knowing how flash is working.

Thats because in Av mode the sync speed is limiting the shutter speed. You'll need to put it in manual and then use high speed sync on your flash. Only prob is now the power is reduced so you'll need to add about +2 FEC.

Admin US West · May 17, 2013

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expatinasia · May 17, 2013

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

There was no need for a challenge, and if indeed there was one, then that's a pretty childish thing to do.

I do not think there is any doubt about just how great the 300 f/2.8 mark ii is, and as you say it works great with the mark iii TCs. I keep looking at the 300, as it is cheaper than the 400, but I know deep down that it is the 400 f/2.8 mark ii I want and need, and if I splurge on the 300 then it will be even longer before I get the 400 so am trying to resist the "cheaper" option

.

For lens reviews I love TDPs efforts, as he covers everything you could possibly want to know about lenses.

noisejammer · May 17, 2013

I've used a lot of Jim Kendrick's dew prevention gear on my scopes - it works well. http://www.kendrickastro.com .

In lenses, apertures, ISO... The short version is that you need to experiment with your camera. I strongly recommend stopping your lens down at least 1 stop. I do not recommend a zoom because sometimes the focal length changes and things get weird. This is not a bad thing - simple primes can do a very good job.

The 500 / focal length rule is ok - it may be a little conservative. Pixel size is important but the sensor size is is irrelevant. This means that if you have ~6 micron pixels - like the 40D and 5D2, the motion blur will be essentially the same.

Bear in mind that it is easy to construct and use the most basic of tracking mounts, the barn door tracker. There are many designs on the web, some are complex while others are trivial. For those inclined to buy a tracking mount, Astrotrac and Losmandy offer ready bought solutions.

tron · May 17, 2013

Unfortunately Belise is no longer the same:

http://rt.com/news/belize-mayan-pyramid-destroyed-234/

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2013/13/130515-belize-pyramid-destroyed-archeology-maya-nohmul-world-road/

chauncey · May 17, 2013

Hijack...compare battery life of the 5D3 to that of an elderly Dw3.

jonathan7007 · May 17, 2013

I have to add that being able to run a head way down to that lowest setting with just a rocker switch is a powerful capability for location or even product photography. Food photos come to mind, real estate. With the big Normans (admittedly the old series 2000d packs) we were adding heads just to split power, or madly swapping connectors to move ratios around. Sometimes if an assistant moved too fast through that process there would be a loud bang and we'd have to pick the guy off the floor <grin>.

Ah, the good old days...

bseitz234 · May 17, 2013

Sella174 said:
What happened to this rumour? With the EOS 100D, small and compact EF-S primes are a must ... otherwise there's just no purpose in the camera. But on the other hand, Canon crippled the darned thing so much, it in fact does have no purpose ... just like this post, I guess.

I love stream-of-consciousness posts.

risc32 · May 17, 2013

nice! marc sure is something.

Olivier11986 · May 17, 2013

MK5GTI said:
thanks OP for the test, good to know. as 5d3 is way out of my budget.

hoping the 6D to come in refurb condition. for cheap ;D

Yeah, if only budget was not a concern! I'd go out and buy lots of lenses as well

awinphoto · May 17, 2013

That was fun potty reading... I'm surprised they ranked the 135L near the bottom... and the 100mm 2.0 so freaking high... oh well..

jvth007 · May 17, 2013

Here in the Netherlands, it is priced at € 11,999, same as the EF600 F/4L IS II. For that price I would rather buy the 600mm prime instead. Unfortunately it is too expensive for me anyway.

J.

Olivier11986 · May 17, 2013

Also got tired of waiting for rumors and cameras that only have fictionnal specs. If ever the 7DII is that good you could always resell your 5DIII and I don't think you'll have to spend that much money to compensate (Unless the 7DII comes out at 3K or more, who knows)

tron · May 17, 2013

RMC33 said:
I would LOVE to see the return of DO lenses, Got to use a 400 f/4 DO today and it was a joy, the contrast/color is a bit off but super easy to fix in post.

+100000 !!!!

I would be interested but this lens' IQ has been controversial.

Some say it is very good, some not (some determine 2003 as the make year that made the difference.

I remember correctly at the-digital-picture site the 400DO didn't take the teleconverters well (IQ wise).

May 17, 2013

cervantes said:
Sorry jdramirez, that doesn't really make sense to me.

AFMA is used to correct for manufacturing tolerances. Tolerance means that nothing can be made to an exact value but it can be made for sure within certain boundaries. Canon knows these boundaries for their lenses and cameras. I believe when they allow AFMA to be set from -20 to +20 it should be enough to correct worst case scenario. I don't know that for sure but it would be logical from my point of view.

E.g: The maximum amount a camera can be "off" would be +/-10 and the maximum amount a lens can be "off" would be +/-10 so a correction of +/-20 would be sufficient.

In this case the lens is probably off -9 and the body -9 (so they are both around their extremes) but you can correct it by using +18. Due to the known tolerances your next body will not be off more than -10 so correction should always be possible.

That would be true if manufacturing process was perfect. It's not. Tolerances aren't absolute, to make them so would be prohibitively expensive. A common manufacturing practice is 3σ, which basically means ~3 out of every 1000 products that leave the factory will not fall within the tolerance range. Of course, if you get one of those you may not even notice it, but if you've got a lens on the other extreme, you might. If you do notice it (in time), Canon will fix it under warranty - doing so is cheaper than tighter adherence to tolerances in manufacturing.

Brand B · May 16, 2013

trojdor said:
the photoshopper got the reflection angle in the glass completely wrong on the second image (Sony). That's the kind of stuff that drives me crazy.

Set a product at the same angle on a reflective surface, and you'll find the reflection goes in the opposite direction they show. That's just lazy.

Hmm, I read it as the phone is sitting perpendicular to the surface, and the whole image is just tilted. Maybe because it didn't make sense any other way.

Brand B · May 16, 2013

My 70-300L is a little looser than most of my other Ls, but not enough that I wanted to return it.

wayno · May 16, 2013

Canon flashes will work on the x100s on the shoe or on cord but in manual only. Have done both. The 430 is a nice fit on the camera for a bit of bounce light.
I love mine - it doesn't replace my 5d2 but its excellent at what it does and is definitely worth it in lieu of say just another L lens

Quasimodo · May 16, 2013

Interesting light. Bad luck on the power lines

CTJohn · May 16, 2013

Thanks!

cayenne · May 16, 2013

Very interesting!!
What did you use to color grade this? Interesting colors...reminiscent of the old 70's polaroid photos.

My one thing was..WOW..did you really take your 5D3 out to that run where they throw all that colored dust on everything?

Ouch..dunno if I would have risked that...hahaha. How hard was it to clean the camera after that?

Nice video, enjoyable to watch.

cayenne

cayenne · May 16, 2013

I'm not sure what's available on windows but the adobe products, like Premier. That gets a bit $$$.

I use Final Cut Pro X on my mac...that was only $300. I'm about to start doing some greenscreen work hopefully this weekend.

Get on youtube and search for green screen, chromakey...etc. That might give you some leads.

HTH,

cayenne

dlleno · May 16, 2013

CanNotYet said:
Sounds like a good plan. A 17-40 or 16-35 would probably also see some action. The streets in Old Town are NARROW (I think the narrowest one is 90 cm wide).

Great pics btw.
[/quote

wow thats like US three feet! I'm envious; sounds like an awesome place to get photos

CarlTN · May 16, 2013

AprilForever said:
The 7D MK II will trump them all!!! "One camera to rule them all, one camera to find them; one camera to bring them all, and in the darkness bind them!!!"

Laughing deeply...thank you!

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