Adywilson said:

I am looking at getting a 70 -200 F2.8 L 2. I have at present have the excellent 70- 300f4-5.6L, is it worth buying the 70 200L or would be better to go for 85F1.2L and the 135 F2.0L, and advice would be most appreciated.

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It kind of depends

do you feel you NEED f2.8 throughout the 70-200 range?
if yes then get the 70-200

however from a practical standpoint depending what you shot I would say get the 135 f2L for use when you want faster glass and have the 70-300 for a very high quality flexable zoom option

I use my 85 and 135 more than the 70-200 these days however certain things such as fashion runway shooting the 70-200 f2.8L IS II has pretty much no equal and for this typically a 70-300 would be too slow, I have considered the sigma 120-300 for this type of shooting but have yet to actually test a copy to see how it goes vs the 70-200

I know this might be slightly off topic, but I do just fine with a 600 ex-rt, a 430 ex II. Sure my recycle times aren't what they could be with studio strobes but at 1/16 power on both of them (1-softbox, 1-umbrella), I'm between f/5.6-f/8 @ISO 320, 1/160th sec., AND they're portable. I'm sure I could bump up the power and lower the ISO to 100 for similar apertures.

That Losmandy looks very interesting, I've been looking for something a bit more potable than my Atlas EQ-G.

is it too late for more spring flowers?

I'm confused by some of these responses and I think you're getting bad information. The AF selection points and AF mode are independent. The expansion points work perfectly fine in One Shot -- it's your personal preference on how useful/effective the extra points are for your shooting needs. For however many point are selected the camera will lock focus on the activated point (or points) it determines is the most ideal candidate based on distance, contrast and whatever other mojo is going on the in the AF chip. I typically use a 9-pt square for focus and if the point lights up off of the face of my subject I just recompose -- I very rarely hit focus on the background. This works great for me when shooting events because I just need to get a point to lock anywhere on face.

For switching modes, you can do so in less than a second on the 5D3 using custom modes...I do it all of the time without missing a beat. Once you get used the the action to switch modes, the dial isn't bad at all. On the 1DX, you have no excuses to complain. Using the custom route as Neuro suggested is nearly instantaneous. You can even tell the camera how many modes to toggle through, so you aren't wasting button pushes. Additionally, and more in line with what someone mentioned with the DOF button, you can assign either of the custom buttons to activate Servo while pushed and return to One-shot when released. I have configuration on my 1DX with the other custom button set to toggle between my current AF point selection and all points active, so i can very quickly expand to all points to catch a moving subject.

It seems to be an excellent lens!
Not something I'd likely be able to afford (hobbyist photog), but I could see myself renting it for some special shooting at times.

I have a old Cosina 19-35mm which flares like crazy. But I do like it! Post your prettiest lensflare! I am curious to see!

My opinion ... (maybe) sell the 17-40mm for a good price; and make the 5D with 50mm lens portable. I carry my 30D with 24mm lens everywhere: it gets knocked about and stuffed in bags - to the extent that the paint is polished clean off at certain areas.

Here:
Canon Cinema Primes vs. Canon L Series on Vimeo

They are both "sharp".

One thing that they mentioned about the NEX and most of the other mirror-less cameras is that they have contrast based focus only and the lenses for the DSLR are created for cameras using phase detection. But since I have a NEX6 with Hybrid AF why isn't it seems to be a little bit faster compared to a mirror-less camera with only contrast detection AF. From what I read so far it doesn't seems to be any bigger performance gains there, is this a "hardware" limitation or is it a software limitation?

Can the Speed Booster be updated in the future to improve the AF speed?
Or can a future Speed Boster for EF to EOS-M be a better solution?

I actually hoped (thought) that the EOS-M would be faster and better than a NEX using my current EF lenses, but I don't know right now. I like the NEX6 but I still hope the AF speed can be similar as a consumer level DSLR with my EF lenses in the future.

I don't want to be forced to buy alot of new EOS-M/NEX leses in the future, maybe a few but it would be nice to be able to continue to use the EF lenses as well.

Many questions, hope you guys can help me to answer some of them.

Thanks in advance, Stolpe

Re: Magic Lantern adds raw silents DNG Bursts & raw Auto-ETTR

wickidwombat said:

i was wondering about this so effectively on a 5Dmk3 you can capture full res raws at 24FPS now!??!!
INSANE!

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It isn't full raw res because a) the data rate would be way to high as a uncompressed dng & b) "only" the live-view buffer is grabbed which has afik different sizes on different camera generations - but it's still great for quick "capture the moment" bursts and timelapses/focus stacking w/o killing your shutter. You can also use the live view 5x zoom mode for extra reach if you just want part of the picture.

tombu said:

I hope my 600D supports autoETTR Would be very useful when taking landscapes!

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Atm 60d (I've got one, too) isn't supported for auto-ettr but just silent dng, but they're working on it - most features make it first to the cameras where the current development focus is, i.e. 6d/600d/5d3 and are then backported to our good ol' models...

Is the second shifted image HDR?

Hi,

Can share?

One Ceiling bounce, One Wall bounce, One direct indoor, and One direct outdoor, preferably shooting group of people.

My intention is only to make fill flash, removed shadows in face, not to light whole seen.
I believe 270ex is enough for this. what do you think?
I am using 6D + 28mm 1.8.

Thank you very much.

Great images

Canon's raw files are often pretty flat and may well need a bit of extra contrast and/or saturation to really pop, especially in a muted scene like that. However in those two you have much better bokeh in the 6D picture which makes a difference and it looks a bit crisper but the colour balance of the olympus makes it look a bit more appealing.

If you have idle asset, sell it.

tiger82 said:

I never considered using a 1.4TC with a TS-E. Do you think that, with the exception of losing 1 stop and some IQ, I can approximate a 24mm TS-E using a 17mm TS-E with a 1.4x TC? I do like the flexibility of using filters on a 24mm TS-E for outdoor work. I will have to decide after shooting the 24 and 45

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I do often, the combo is still a very high quality lens. I need the 17 fov often enough for that to be my mainstay TS-E lens, but I am very happy with the output from the 17 and 1.4TC MkIII.

neuroanatomist said:

Ladislav said:

I got the lens back on Thursday (hey really made it within 3 day). I used FoCal on Friday to check AF calibration. It didn't need any AFMA change on wide end but it needed -13 on telephoto end! That a big disappointment. I gave both lens and camera body to service center and they returned me a "calibrated" lens which still needs -13 AFMA which I must do myself. At least this time the required value was within available range. This change increased quality of focus on "calibrated" lens (according to FoCal units) by 100%. My problem copy is not as sharp as Dustin's copy but it is now satisfying for my needs.

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I'd try some FoCal testing at intermediate focal lengths. If AFMA is set to W = 0 and T = -13, the camera will do a simple linear regression to apply AFMA at intermediate focal lengths. So, for example when you're zoomed to 35mm, an AFMA of -3 will be applied, and at 50mm the AFMA will be -7. If those values are far off of what FoCal determines for those intermediate focal lengths, you might consider another try at service. Personally, my Canon 24-70/2.8L II needs W = 0 and T = 5, and the intermediate focal lengths fall right on the regression line. If that wasn't the case, I'd have exchanged the lens.

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I'd also AFMA your Canon lens. It is always possible that the camera is off somewhat.

This is one of the issues a buyer faces with a 3rd party lens. Is it the lens, the camera body, or both. You can't send both to either manufacturer and ask them to make it right, no matter which has the issue.

ankorwatt said:

have I said anything else?

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yes all the time

Well i have only started posting on this forum but have stalked for a while since i didnt have any good questions.
I am a commercial pilot and got asked to do a shoot of a commercial building and wondered if anyone else does this and what settings they go after.

For my shots i tried to go early in the morning to get some shadows. It ended up being a little later than i wanted when we finally got up and tried to keep my shutter around 1/2000.

5D III w/ 70-200 IS 2.8L II shot from about 1000 feet.

I would be happy to see a better 17-40/4 L, but not with IS at twice the price and much heavier...

The 17-40 has been the lens I use the most often, it is light, very good for the price: but I am afraid to see a replacement with a much higher price, a much heavier lens, and not * that * optically better... The current Canon pricing policy is not making me optimistic...

Welcome to CR, and congratulations on a great camera, hope you have as much fun with yours as I do with mine.

V8Beast said:

Congrats on the new toy!

webphoto said:

Congratulations on your new camera. The 5D Mark III is the best DSRL today.

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I love my MKIII as much as the next guy, but it's only the best DSLR today for people - like me - who can't afford a 1DX.

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Don't be too sure. I am really lucky I have both and I think I probably use the 5D3 more. The 1Dx is fantastic and can do what the 5D3 can and more, except the number of pixels but either have plenty for me. BUT the 5D3 is a lot lighter and smaller that has its benefits. I bought the 5D3 after the 1Dx because I saw the improvement in IQ over the 7D and found I was never using the 7D that I had kept as a backup. The loss of the crop factor is completely offset by the better IQ and the improved focus accuracy, being FF etc etc all help. But its the IQ that gets me every time and there's not much wrong with the 5D3.

Sponsor my hobby with ur old equipment Go for 70-200 2.8L ...epic lense

crasher8 said:

I believe it's just hope and dreams.

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Sigh. I wanted it to be a pillar of truth so much, the thought of that lens kept me so content.