So don't get 24-70 2.8? You thinking 35L 85L 100 Macro and upgrade 70-200 to the IS 70-200. Keeping it all prime? If you have 35/85, do you get a 50 still?

verysimplejason said:

It's easier to lose your S95 from your pants pocket than when you put it inside a small belt bag.

Click to expand...

FWIW for the S95/S100, the Lowepro Napoli 20 is the perfect size.

I think I'm going to stick with the 6D + 105 as that will be the best all around purchase for now. The 24-70 is on the top of my list for next purchase, maybe the wait will bring it down a bit before I need to convince the wife that I need more glass.

You may yawn, but he is right.

(Where'd you buy that degree from?)

KurtStevens said:

I sold my 3 strobes with battery packs to fund purchase of flash units instead, but not sure what to get. I shoot weddings and portraits and would like a flash on a stand and another one for on camera use as well but only have 500-750 to spend on everything. Can anyone help me find a suitable setup to accomplish this? I have a little experience with the 430exII but I could never figure out how to get it to slave.

Any help would be amazing! Thank you.

Click to expand...

3x 430 EX II's + cowboy tiggers.

I would still rather have the civic anyway. Fuel economy. Jd power survey. Resale value. And i just dont like american cars. Or muscle cars. My girlfriend came with me to the dealers when I bought my last car, she had a colour in mind, I had an mpg in mind. So I'm probably the wrong person to talk about cars with.

ankorwatt said:

Razor2012 said:

Neuro you know you're popular when people join just to comment on your posts.

Click to expand...

He is not popular,mybe popular among ignorant people . Neuro writes so many inaccuracies and he is not listening to other people with knowledge.

Click to expand...

You do realize of course that by this statement youare saying the majority of people on this forum are ignorant, because neuro is highly respected around here. Maybe you'd be happier on a different forum where you don't have to tolerate all us ignoramuses.

Much thanks!!
The blog is interresting.
I know photozone, I sent there an lens for testing. And they did, a few years ago.
I knew The digital picture page, but did not recognise all the tests.

Are there any Germans (despite the photographer from Berlin that has never beEn to Garmisch ;-) ) that know Color foto? What du they think about their tests?

Apart from the 100/2, do you only rely on focus confirmation by the camera?

mikiort said:

I don't believe that there is any particular reason for such HUGE firmware upgrade.
After all, firmware upgrades are supposed to address some bugs or any particular issues with the device and I haven't heard about any of such bugs or issues with the camera.

Click to expand...

They sure could fix up video features they left out, although now with ML I guess we have some of them already and will soon have more. I don't think ML will be able to deliver crop mode video though and we will have to see whether it can fix AutoISO for stills or not.

billatthemovies said:

I have a 70-200mm F4 IS on a 5D Mark II. It is a phenomenal lens and lighter than any of the 2.8s.

Now, having said that, I have been considering the 2.8 you are mulling over because my son plays hockey and not all the rinks are well lit. I purchased the F4 when the vast majority of my telephoto shots would be outside and my camera at the time was not FF.

Click to expand...

I can't comment on the 70-200 F4 matchup with the 5DII, but on the otherhand, the 70-200 2.8II with the 5DIII is an awesome pair. With that combo I don't think you'd have a problem with indoor rinks at all.

Lordmacedo said:

My canon 7d appeared with an error 30 and now 90% of the pictures appear too dark. Is there any solution?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Stop using it and send it for repair. A bad shutter can come apart and cause more damage and double the repair bill.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

I think I'm going to hold off until the end of October to early November for now. As for situations, it's really a bit of everything including general usage, sports, landscapes, music events and even some wedding work with my DJ Entertainment company. Video is also just as important for me. There will definitely be a fair amount of low light usage so that's why I'm pretty firm on low noise at high ISO, obviously not great on either camera. With the recent price drop on the 5D Mark II, I was thinking about this as an option but feel I will miss the fast AF, reach and speed.

Rumors of a new sensor have me holding on for a new release as well. If even legit, will it really improve the noise at high ISO. I love almost everything about the 7D and as tnargs mentioned, have no problem getting involved with a complex camera as I tend to think of myself as a technical complex type of person willing to learning the ins and outs of anything I commit to.

I really hope if they do release a 7D Mark II that it falls somewhere on or about $1700. By the time it gets announced I will be happy to spend that cash for a new product that hits almost all of my needs.

If you don't really need the extra 100mm, the 70-300mm L is the better lens. If you do need the extra reach, the 100-400mm is the way to go. For birds, you almost always need the reach. I'd go with the 100-400mm.

Most (but not all) of my shots in my Flickr Birds and Wildlife sets are with the 7D and 100-400mm (you'll see a couple with the 7D and 70-300 DO in there, too).

If you think the 7D will fit your needs then I would just get one. I bought mine about two years ago and was very hesitant because there were all kinds of rumors that the 7D mark II was coming out within the year. As it turns out that never happened and in the mean time I've gotten a lot of pictures that I either wouldn't have before or would have had to be lucky to get. It's a fantastic camera and you won't regret it.

7D if you're more of a sports/bird photographer. If you're a landscape fanatic, 60D should be better. The swivel screen is very useful to take those super awkward shots and if you're creative enough to take advantage of it.

not all sigmas have weak AF however I have heard on this particular model it was particularly fragile, these lenses sell dirt cheap second hand, I've seen them sell for 200 to 300 bucks which on paper is pretty good
if the AF didnt break

Much thanks!

The camera should have an fast AF, for photographing birds and jets. But I see, it would be worth saving more money to buy an 5DIII, Keep working with my old (non IS 70-200 2.8L). Today my limiting factor is the grain/noise of my 7D, maybe it gets better with a new body. Later I can still buy a new 70-200 lens for the 5DIII.

From wide to tele:

Zeiss Distagon T* 21mm f/2.8 ZE Lens for Canon EF
Voigtlander 40mm f/2.0 Ultron SL II Aspherical Lens for Canon
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II

Can I do 3 more, in addition to the must-haves mentioned above?
Here they are, from the most to least desirable:

Canon EF 85mm f/1.2L II
Canon Telephoto EF 180mm f/3.5L Macro
Canon EF 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye

i can't see it having a sensor any bigger than the present FF sensors. The lenses won't have a big enough image circle otherwise.

well, if i was watching THAT, i might have missed it too. wow, what a capture(in more ways than one)

Get a different copy if possible - it should not be squeaky

hello, has anyone had the front barrel loose on their 16-35?
it has a little play, not sure if i should worry about it or let it go, would it affect the weather sealing?
maybe its normal? i have the lens a bit less than a year, and i just notice it.
any thoughts would be greatly apreciated it!

Do you need one shot?

I know we are all used to using it. But with good quality AF points, many people use AI servo even for things like portraits.

If you are shooting someting like the 85 1.2 wide open for a portrait, for example, the depth of field might me 3-4 inces.

Between you swaying a bit and your subject swaying a bit, that can put teh focus on the ear instead of the eye (I know I miss focus almost 50% of teh time in fashion trying to shoot that way.)

Given all of the tunable parameters and points for servo, maybe that is the better overall choice? Allow it to lock and maintain focus. Then switch bewteen spot,, expanded, tracking, etc. depening on what you shoot?

You can also change the priorities too. Focus as highest priority for portraits, others for sports, etc.

Michael

neuroanatomist said:

neuroanatomist said:

I believe that the AI Servo parameters (tracking speed, focus priority, etc.) can be registered, but not the AF mode itself - that seems to be what the manual indicates. It states, "Convenient when you want to change the AF characteristics duringAI Servo AF, not to AI Servo AF. However, I haven't tried it yet.

Click to expand...

Ok, I just tried it, and no, Switch to Registered AF Function does not change you from One Shot to AI Servo.

Still, that combination combined with the one-button press-and-hold change to AI Servo would do it, i.e. assign the registered AF function to the DoF Preview button and use that for a one-touch change from single AF point selection to 61-point auto selection, and then press and hold the M.Fn2 button to change from One Shot to Servo. Obviously, that's only possible on the 1D X with the M.Fn2 button right next to the DOF Preview button.

Still, I currently have C2 assigned as One Shot with single point selection, and C3 as AI Servo with 61-point selection, and I can rapidly switch since I have the M.Fn1 button assigned to Switch to Custom Shooting Mode. That's better for me, because in Servo mode I also want a higher minimum shutter speed setting.

Click to expand...

oops, ok - I think I stand corrected - for some reason I remember the body only as being $1500 - but that must have been a thing of the past. Thanks guys for the clarification.