Upgrading...Canon 60D to...GH3

These are tough times to decide which direction to go with new camera bodies. There are so many options right now for incredible image quality, it's astounding. The promise of newer cams becoming available makes it even more difficult.

I have been using a T3i for a couple years and like you, I'm frustrated with Canon's soft image. I invested in a number of great lenses and I'm stuck for the time being. The combination of some great glass and the incredible usability of Magic Lantern are keeping me put for the time being.

If I weren't vested in Canon glass, I'd be looking closely at the new DMC-G6 from Panasonic. It has virtually every spec I have been looking for in a new Canon body. Super sharp moire free GH2 sensor, 1080-60p, focus peaking, onboard time lapse, sweep panorama, 2.4x ETC zoom. The only thing it lacks is clean ISO 3200 low light ability.

http://panasonic.net/avc/lumix/systemcamera/gms/g6/index.html

For the price of a 5D3 you could get the G6, Lumix 12-35 f/2.8 IS and a Voitlander 25mm f/0.95. This combo would give an equivalent focal length of 24 - 168 at f/2.8 if you include the ETC mode all with IS. Then you have the 25mm f/0.95 for pretty nice low light capability up to ISO 1600 or so. It's super light weight and will work on your glidecam easily. Add a nice light weight carbon tripod and fluid head, maybe a slider down the road and a Zoom or Tascam for audio, a couple small LED lights and you'd have a perfect gorilla setup that all fits in one small backpack.

You can almost do this whole and complete setup for the cost of a new 5D3 with a kit lens. If I were you right now, I'd stick with the 60D, add Magic Lantern and work on your audio and lighting kits. Over the next 6 months cams like the 70D, 7DII, this Panny G6, BMD Pocket cam and maybe others will all be out and available to better judge image quality and usability.

In the end of the day, audio, lighting and story telling are orders of magnitude more important than sensor resolving power. For now I'm sticking with the one I brung to the dance and will keep working on my craft rather than chasing the holy grail via my wallet :)

Cheers,
Pete
https://vimeo.com/petecarney
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1D III viewfinder visibility

I have two 1D Mark IIN's.

I think I know what you mean, all the non-active AF points are very difficult to see unless straight on in some situations (in broad daylight they're near impossible to see regardless). This has never affected me though, it has never bothered me and only that you bring it up now do I see the issue. I don't see why you'd need to see the other AF points apart from the active one. You should know your camera well enough to just be able to move the AF point in the general direction until you find the best AF point for your needs. I'd find it extremely distracting to have the entire viewfinder covered by all those AF points... wouldn't be able to see anything behind them.
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Should I buy a Speedlite?

neuroanatomist said:
I suggest avoiding on-camera flash like the plague, unless there's a white ceiling or wall off which to bounce that flash. For pics of two people, a fast lens isn't as helpful as you'd think - yes, you can keep ISO down with f/1.4 or f/1.8, but DoF will be thin, and prom couples would prefer to both be in focus, I expect. Of the two options, I'd get the 430EX II, but get it off-camera with a light stand, umbrella, and 'dumb' wireless triggers.

But I'd recommend neither. A one-Speedlite portrait isn't going to make many people happy. My advice - rent. Lensrentals.com has a two-monolight kit (with stands, wireless triggers, one softbox and one umbrella, for $133 + $35 shipping for a 5-day rental.
+1

You need to be in control of the lighting, or you may not like the results, and may make a few enemies.
Speedlites can shoot into or thru a umbrella, and they are portable, but having the right lighting for portraits is critical.
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Looking for a good bang for buck extender with a focus on image quality.

Mt Spokane Photography said:
jdramirez said:
Interesting. I didn't realize Tam and Ken were the same. Especially since their rating is quite different. And while I don't quite have a 5d mkiii today... I will tomorrow or maybe next month. So that eliminates that from consideration. That's just silly that you would ever turn off AFMA, unless you were manually focusing... ugh. Thanks for the heads up... I was leaning towards the kenko.

There used to be a note on the site that they used the same optics, but it doesn't mean the chip or housing is the same. You have to compare like series as well. Since the price is the same within $20 or so, I'd just get a Kenko. Resale value will be higher, since Tamron is often thought of as a low end brand.

The kenko is now off my radar screen... so, that's the end of that. I appreciate the response though. I know Tamron is a 3rd party lens manufacturer and their resale value isn't what it is for Canon, but I was of the opinion that their reputation was on par with Sigma. I might need to rethink that.
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21mp Sensor in the 7D Mark II? [CR1]

That 7D is a good camera but I miss so many shots because of AF I finally stopped using it. If the 7100 is accurate then that alone would sway me..

Off subject but got me to thinking. I have some Sigma screw AF lenses for Pentax mount cameras. Really good glass IMO. Really anxious to see what Pentax Ricoh has to offer in there next crop sensor camera. The rumor is it is going to be a pro level crop camera? If AF is there I will be in heaven. Being able to use my Sigma glass again...

For me AF is the main thing. I quit Pentax because of it and stopped using the 7D also. I have an old IV and it hits pretty consistently. Very happy with that camera so far. Night and day in the AF systems? Right now I am very happy with Canon gear.
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400mm L f/5.6 vs 100-400mm L IS f/5.6

I would get the 400l. I tried two copies of the 100-400 and its soft wide open or rather yields halos around bright objects. It also interferes with AF which I found slow to start with and hunted around a lot. I missed a lot of bird in flight shots. I returned it for a 70-200 2.8l IS II with a 2xiii extender.

The 400 5.6l is pretty sharp wide open. AF is quick and it locks reasonably well with BIF provided you have enough light or high enough ISO.
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