Ok, so far I think I will go with the 16-35 because:

As far as I understood, I can use more time at 16mm than at 24, so the 24 is not anymore 2 stops faster, but one. Plus as I saw in samples I can use the 16-35 II at 2.8 but cant use the 24 at 1.4.
Yes the Samyang 24 1.4 I couldn't really use it for other than landscapes/star shooting, because the lack of focus.

Any other lens recommended?

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

Consider me a little underwhelmed.

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You will keep being underwhelmed, and this is actually one reason to get the 5d3 just as Canon intends to: Like the 60d, I don't expect anything to be added to the 6d firmware because that's a "silent feature" of the more expensive models like 7d/5d3.

*Maybe* they'll do some semi-bug fixes for things like gps timeouts and such, but hell will freeze over before of the "hard" features f8, 1/200 x-sync, 1/8k shutter will be changed. And if only because Canon will never admit that this is just a marketing software limitation.

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

I was hoping for f/8 AF and a fix for the always on nature of the GPS and it's resulting battery drain. I would like to see options for shut down (say auto shut off 10 minutes after the camera has been turned off). At minimum, on/off with the camera being powered on/off.

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There already is a feature request to do gps off on power down with magic lantern, it's possible to do, feel free to +1 this request in the thread which will make it more likely to happen than when just one single user seems to want it: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5015.0

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

This is probably a long shot, but I would love to see an update down the road that increased max shutter speed from 1/4000 to 1/8000. It is rumored that this is just a software limiter and not a physical limitation to the shutter itself. Oh well, all of this gives ML something to play with.

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It is just a software limitation, at least 1/8k works in some circumstances (like live view) but most of the thime Canon code keeps resetting it - the ml people are still working on it: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3904.msg30746#msg30746

Thanks again guys!

The small BMCC is very impressive and the image on it looks fantastic. Major downside is the rolling shutter which is substantially more pronounced than on the 5D.

If you can control your pans and don't shoot mostly action, I think it's a great camera and with one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-EF-lens-to-Micro-4-3-M43-Adapter-w-Aperture-/150651339372?pt=US_Lens_Adapters_Mounts_Tubes&hash=item231385026c

...the lens issue might not be as bad.

I love my 5D3. I also still love my 5D2.

Dont worry guys i just read the post about the new Fast primes
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=13971.0
I have decided to buy the 24-70 2.8L M2.

neuroanatomist said:

tron said:

neuroanatomist said:

tron said:

family / children: better with prime lenses
landscapes: better with a 24-70

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Interesting. I have the opposite viewpoint, mostly. My kids move fast - a zoom offers the flexibility I need to capture them from arm's length to across the yard. For landscapes, I have the camera on a tripod and time at my disposal. TS-E 24mm and mucking about with gran ND filters? No problem.

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I was thinking as you but OP had said:

"images are usually taken after I'm back from work so its mostly in low light situations"

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That's the main reason I bought the 35L. But now, with the high ISO performance of the 1D X, I find that an f/2.8 lens is working for indoor ambient shooting.

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I'm finding that I can't change primes fast enough (or move myself fast enough ) to get all the shots I want of our 12-month-old toddler indoors. Its tough to predict where and when he is going to move! So, I'm looking hard at acquiring a 24-70 2.8. I can use primes for other indoor shots of the older kids, but they are not working with the youngest right now.

BRNexus6 said:

Great little camera, but S16mm just isn't for me.

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This camera coupled with a Speed Booster would be awesome I think

Go get a 7D and enjoy it!!!!!!!!

I recently was deciding how to upgrade my camera on a limited budget. I had a Rebel XT and could not afford to go to FF, the 6D and even the older 5D Mark II were out of my price range. And waiting was not an option for any 7DMII or 70D.

So I picked up a used 7D for $850 about 2 weeks ago and it is great. With a 17-55 lens you should be all set.
I'm still working on getting a good EF-S lens for mine, right now I'm stuck with a 18-55 kit from my Rebel.

Sure there are better camera's out there, but for under $900 it was a huge upgrade to my camera kit.

neuroanatomist said:

Rienzphotoz said:

I find the 100 L a lot more easier ... another interesting think which I was not aware of was how long the MP-E 65 lens barrel zooms out at 5x Macro ... I always thought it was tiny lens.

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Did you know that the 100 L gets "shorter" as you focus closer? Not on the outside, but on the inside. Although it's a 100 mm lens when focused at infinity, when focused at 1:1, it's actually approximately 68 mm in focal length.

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Focal lengths are specified at infinity, which seems to make little sense for a Macro Lens, they really should add that into the spec.

Most lenses have a very difficult focal length with close focus. I use my 15-85mm zoom on a light table for close focus, and it zooms significantly as I focus. I focus first and then zoom, and finally, fine tune the focus.

RGF said:

Have you contacted canon services and got their recommendation (besides either sending it back to them or trashing it).

You could try the old wive's tail and place the flash in a bag of rice. The rice acts like a dissectant (spelling?) and absorps the water.

It will take a while for the water to evaporate from the insides. DId you remove the batteries and leave the battery cover open?

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unfortunately i did something stupid and tried to operate it straight after...but after a couple of days of being in a warm room it got radio functionality back and also was flashing but would not turn off right away when turned off and did not feel as powerful as my other when test firing both at the same settings.canon charge £60 in the uk just to look at items that have water damage so i sent to fixation whom get fantastic reviews and also do free estimates so they were going to post it back to me and i just ordered another when on the phone to them.So i am hoping they may have dried it out when they were inside it so maybe it will work i will come back tomorrow and let you all know

Qwerty, if you're out there I have re-read your posts and the key points make sense to me, namely that the larger sensor will of course offer more resolution because of it's larger size and therefore greater line widths per picture height, and also because of the cropped sensor image requiring greater relative enlargement to appear at the same size of the full frame image- not to be confused with the total number of pixels, which, for example, comparing the 1DX and 7D might be similar, but the 7D's are crammed into a much smaller sensor. Of course I always knew the FF sensor would provide better IQ, due to it's larger surface area and consequently greater light gathering ability, it was just the difference in sharpness particularly apparent in TDP's sample crops that astounded me.

The other thing I think was confusing me was the units for resolution- lp/mm, which is independent of sensor size, and lp/ph, which is not.

Anyway, it makes more sense to me now, thanks again for taking the time.

neuroanatomist said:

J.R. said:

I too had a similar query when I got the 100-400, that lens make a fairly loud and audible clunk when the IS is activated.

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Try the 300/4L IS sometime - an even louder clunk you can hear and feel, and during operation the IS is sort of a low growl.

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Yes! I'm hard of hearing, when I got my 300mm f/4, I could feel the clunk, and hear the growl. I was ready to send it to Canon, but I remembered reading about it and did a little investigation.

According to TDP, the 8-15 should be sharper outside the center (might help if you defish) and it should be better against flare.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-8-15mm-f-4-L-USM-Fisheye-Lens-Review.aspx

If you're happy with the 15mm, I don't think you'll be blown away with the 8-15's advantages for twice the price. One of the advantages of the 8-15 is the flexibility you have with crop and FF bodies. You can get a wider AOV with the crop, and you can get the porthole look with FF. I don't use the porthole look much but changing the AOV on the crop is a nice feature. I've unloaded the crop camera since moving FF, but I can imagine that the 8-15 would be a lot more valuable to someone that has both types of cameras. You might have to try renting it out to see if it makes sense to you.

This phtoo i have cropped to 5x7 for the client removing the bum of the girl to the left giving a stronger composition.

cute by Lseriesglass, on Flickr
expression one of the key elements for me when photographing people.

laughter by Lseriesglass, on Flickr
A girl who looks deep in thought

Rock chick by Lseriesglass, on Flickr
sharon

sharon by Lseriesglass, on Flickr
kickboxer

Kickboxer in action by Lseriesglass, on Flickr
one in a forrest again i have cropped this afterwards to 5x7 removing the tree on the right

the forrest by Lseriesglass, on Flickr

Post your favorite cactus photos here.

I got this one last weekend at Gates Pass in Tucson, a popular overlook for watching the sunset. On the shadow side of the pass, the last rays of the sun can strike individual saguaro cacti like this one.

tpatana said:

Past couple years I've flown maybe ~10-15 times on international flights, and never had any trouble. Last month I was down to Aruba, carrying gripped 5D3, 24-105, 70-200 2.8 IS II, Sigma 50/1.4, Sigma 14/2.8, EF 2x II, Kenko tubes, 430EX, D10, GoPro, chargers for all 3 cameras, big pile of memory cards (~200GB total), some ~20 rechargeable AA batteries, USB-camera-connection kit for iPad, etc. Nothing at the airport, as usually.

I think twice I've been swiped (for the bomb-detection device, don't know what they call it officially). About year ago arriving to Frankfurt, the x-rayed at arrivals. The border agent comes to me, holding my camera bag:

-You speak English or German?
-Both
-Which one you prefer?
-Either one, I don't care
-Is this your bag?
-Yup
-There's quite plenty of equipment inside
-Yup (about same list as above)
-Would you follow me to inspections room
-Ok

There he asked me to open the bag, swiped it with a rag, machine analyze for ~30 seconds, and then he let me go.

Click to expand...

My camera bag was checked carefully in Frankfurt. A non-event. BTW I only speak English, my story is a bit simplier.

Long ago, my first L lens was an oddity: the 300 f4 L. Hit with the ladies. Bought for $400, sold for $720 on eBay. Missing it dearly (even though I never used it) I found a 300 f4 L IS for $660 on eBay, with a 1 inch mark on the front element.

Used it for indoor sports (mostly cheerleading) in the university's gym. But it had few rentals. So I put it on the chopping block.

Last night I ended up trading my $660 investment for a Sigma 24-70 f2.8 IF HSM and $120. Not L sharp at f2.8 on the 6D, but I like the color. Also handles better than the 24-70 L imo.

Good deal or not? Should I sell and add cash for a 28-70 f2.8 L that will have better f2.8 performance AND be more rentable? Old model or not, renters looooove the red ring!

Studio1930 said:

I must not be in a good mood today. I thought that was kinda stupid. :

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Beyond stupid.

Locked

blaydese said:

It was sold when I went back

Oh well.

I got my 70-300 L lens now, so that'll keep me happy for a year.

Peace! 8)

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Only 1 year? ;D
I recently had a chance to borrow the 70-300L from a friend and it is far more superior and sharper lens than my Sigma 150-500 OS

Here's another view. The articulating arm of the EVF actually makes for a decent grip (and kickstand!). Too bad it won't work for handheld. I will need to find another solution for handheld: either super expensive Zacuto mount for my EVF -or- one of these bargain optical viewfinder options mentioned in previous posts.

I tried reverse-lens macro for the first time because the adaptor + extension tubes were relatively inexpensive, and I love my 100mm f2.8L lens so I wanted to try something new.

It took a fair amount of practice, and a fair amount of patience, but I have gotten some wonderful results. I used the Canon "Nifty" 50mm f1.8, a set of cheap extension tubes, and a flash with a little diffuser on it, and have gotten some pretty (in my opinion) awesome results. The IQ is what it is with the 50mm lens, but the good news is you always have the freedom to get a better lens option (the wider the lens is normally, the more magnified it is when it's reversed.) and or a more magnified image.

I'd say if you are interested in Macro photography at all, this is really a no-brainer. All the different parts you'll need, Reverse-Lens Adaptor, Extension Tubes, and Lens to play around with, can be had off of Amazon for very reasonable prices by photography standards.

Check out the work of Thomas Shahan, a Spider portraiture specialist who works in the Reverse-Lens macro medium...
http://www.thomasshahan.com/#photos
He makes some really beautiful and interesting images and has served as a huge inspiration to me.

And here is a flickr gallery of images that I have captured with this set up on my Canon 7D...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/17873203@N03/sets/72157633194724521/
I've got some way to go to achieve what Mr. Shahan has, but I'm looking forward to trying.

Good Luck!

This lens has become my favorite. I use a 5d classic with good effect. At first, I was seduced by the live view on my 7d, but then, I started learning how to set up for a shot with the viewfinder.

The tables that you've found elsewhere are a god send. Commit those to memory. I agree that if you are trying to use the camera in the classic sense that very little tilt is necessary. In that case, you may tilt the lens at such a small amount that you almost can't get there. 1/2 degree is ideal.

However, if you want to do the special effects, such as the centerline of a road, you will tilt the lens all the way and then set up about 8 inches above the road surface. In these cases, it is advisable to pre-focus. Again, I'm doing this with a 5dC so the focusing is done through the viewfinder. Following these instructions, it is possible to get the focal plane to project almost straight out from the camera. In fact, you can have the plane parallel to the straight view but offset by a few inches or feet.

How to focus so easily? First, note that the fixed point (about 8 inches from the centerline of the lens) doesn't move with focusing. This is the easy part. Now, when you turn the focus ring, all you're doing is rotating the plane of focus about that fixed point (it's really a line, but point is easier to visualize). Look at your distant targets. Then, rotate the focal plane until they are in focus.

For example, if you have the fixed point below the lens, you will move the distant focus up and down. You can see that in this photo:

warning by Stealth Tramp, on Flickr

Then, if you have the fixed point to the side of then, you can move the distant focus left and right. That is visible in this photo:

Lowe Boat by Stealth Tramp, on Flickr

On the other hand, I hooked my lens to a SpeedBooster and Sony NEX-5 and found out that I could do in about three seconds, what usually takes 5 minutes with the 5dC.

Jag by Stealth Tramp, on Flickr

Very nice. I was a graduate student at UCLA (and lived a summer in SF) and I must admit California is still in my blood (and heart)

A good place to begin is an equatorial mount and a decent telephoto. You have a much better chance of achieving pleasing results without too much frustration than you would trying to use a telescope as you're learning, plus the telephoto is good for general photography. Most bang for your limited bucks. My personal opinion is to forget the Astrotrak, your 70-200 will work fine on this mount:

http://www.telescope.com/Mounts-Tripods/Equatorial-Mounts-Tripods/Orion-Adventures-in-Astrophotography-Bundle/pc/-1/c/2/sc/34/p/27154.uts

For cameras, a good place to look is astromart.com You will often find modified Canons for sale at a good price.....much less than a 60Da. For planets you'll want a telescope and webcam, the mount mentioned above may not be beefy enough. You don't need a large scope but you do need a good mount. The mount above, with an older, modified camera would set you back well under $1,000. You could get a refurb 60D from Canon for cheap and have it modified to be the equivalent of a 60Da for far less than the price of a 60Da, but for that matter a T2i has the same sensor and will work the same when modified, a T3i would also give you the articulating LCD. I've done planetary work with the crop video mode on the 60D through a telescope - it works, but isn't quite as good as a webcam type imager. (I use a Philips SPC900NC). A non-modified camera will work and get you on the learning curve, it just won't work as well as a modified camera.

The three images below were taken ~9 years ago with a Digital Rebel (300D) and a Sigma 70-200/2.8, the M42 image with a Kenko 2X telextender attached.

http://www.pbase.com/emagowan/image/23602641 Pleiades w/sigma

http://www.pbase.com/emagowan/image/23602643 Orion w/Sigma

http://www.pbase.com/emagowan/image/24363684 M42 w/Sigma and 2X


In this discussion thread is a photo of a camera platform I put together from an old Celestron drive base and a tripod head. Looks like a cross between Frankenstein and Rube Goldberg but it does the trick.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12499.30

These mounts and others similar to it can often be found for reasonable prices at:

http://www.astronomy-mall.com/astro.parts.outlet/list.htm


If you have a local astronomy club, by all means join it. The one I belong to has a number of loaner scopes that people can check out for a month, great way to get your feet wet for cheap. You'll also find a bunch of folks who will be more than happy to bend your ear if you have questions. We have a potentially spectacular comet headed our way late this year, get some practice in now and you'll be able to capture some fine images when it arrives.