Posts

Apr 18, 2013

RE sharpness, the first three look a bit front-focused, could benefit from AF Microadjustment.

Apr 18, 2013

Two suggestions, I've used both:

1) Manfrotto 233B Flash Bracket with a Giottos MH1004 mini ball head. I used this setup for macro with the 100L both with a simple Stofen on the flash positioned basically resting on the lens hood, and with a small softbox (8" square) positioned out over the subject.

2) Wimberley F-2 Macro Flash Bracket. I have a pair of these that I use with the heads of the MT-24EX, but they're robust enough for a 580/600EX. They do require an Arca-Swiss type plate oriented perpendicular to the body, meaning either Wimberley's M8 perpendicular plate or a RRS MPR-CL rail attached to an Arca-Swiss type plate on your camera body, or a tripod collar on the lens with a lens plate on that.

The first setup offers a lot of flexibility in positioning and the cost is pretty reasonable. The latter setup offers maximum flexibility in flash positioning, but the setup cost is much higher.

Hope that helps...

goldencode · Apr 18, 2013

No, unfortunately I did not discuss customs...the shipping price put me in shock !

Apr 18, 2013

dickgrafixstop said:
No digital camera is an investment. They are all rapidly depreciating expenses. Determine if you really can't do
what you like with your current gear and if the answer is "no", then go buy something that will. Whatever you choose, there will be a better choice in six months.

he does not see that camera as investment... not as an investment that grows.
but he wants to spend/invest his money for the right stuff.

as most people do who work for their money.

so it´s absolutely fine to aks if there will be a better option in the "near" future.

sanj · Apr 18, 2013

eml58 said:
TrumpetPower! said:

eml58 said:

When I'm shooting Safari in particular where you need this particular range 200-560, this Lens saves me having to carry 4 current Lenses 200f/2, 300f/2.8, 400f/2.8 & 600f/4

Click to expand...

Well, I've never been on safari, so I'll certainly defer to your experience. But I personally don't see using all four of the lenses you list...I'd go with just the 200 and the 400 and the 1.4x TC. I'd have two bodies regardless; might as well have a lens attached to each. And I'd like to think that either I or my guide would have enough experience (or time) to know which to have ready. And to get into an optimal position for whichever lens was best. I also don't think I'd use the TC very much, except in slow-paced, deliberative settings...there's an advantage to using a TC, yes, but not a huge one.

So, that again brings us to the matter of whether the 200 and the 400 plus a 1.4x TC beats a slower all-in-one design. For convenience, maybe...but I'd still want the redundancy, which kinda does away with the convenience....

Cheers,

b&

Click to expand...

Which I guess is part of why Canon will make the Lens, some will use it, some will find it less than useful, but I'm reasonably sure getting this Lens in the first 6 months of release will be next to impossible.

When shooting something like Cheetahs or Leopards, you don't often have the time to consider attaching a Converter, plus on Safari there's the very real issue of dust getting into the Camera anytime you change a Lens, so the built in Converter would be a plus for me, on a Range of lenses to take with you ?? I travel from Singapore to Africa/Antarctica, when I get there I want to ensure I have as many scenarios covered as possible, better to have the Lens & not need it, than need it & not have it, Singapore's a long way from Botswana or South Georgia & excess luggage costs are not a factor when you travel with Long Whites.

I always shoot with at least 3 Bodies on three different lens set ups, 1Dx + 300f/2.8, 1Dx + 400f/2.8, 5DMK3 + 70-200 or 600f/4.

Correct...!!

bycostello · Apr 18, 2013

i'd be pretty surprised if it is

Apr 18, 2013

Albi86 said:
Malte_P said:

excuse my ignorance.... but why all the world on the net is talking about this lens to be equal to a f2.7 (f2.9) FF lens?

f1.8 is f1.8.... ?

here too:

dr croubie said:

So it's 18-35 f/1.8 for APS-C, making at a FF-equivalent of 29-56 f/2.9

Click to expand...

i mean when i put a 50mm f1.8 on FF or APS-C it´s an f1.8 lens.

Click to expand...

In terms of DoF

then they have to write that. :

because DOF is not everything.

in terms of speed it´s an f1.8 lens.

Deva · Apr 18, 2013

AmbientLight said:
@Deva:
I generally agree with your comment regarding tripods, but for night time photography a tripod may come in quite handy, especially if used extensively for night time exposures.

If there is no opportunity for night time photography, then a tripod would indeed be a waste of space and effort, but things look differently, if there are lots of opportunities. Not everyone will bring in a 1D-X and f1.4 and f1.2 lenses for night time photography and there are also limits to the usefulness of shallow depth of field in those circumstances.

I myself have often enjoyed the opportunity of loaning a tripod locally. This is a much better option than bringing your own.

You may enjoy reading Ken Rockwell's view on the need (or not) for tripods with modern digital cameras: www.kenrockwell.com/tech/digital-killed-my-tripod.htm

rpt · Apr 18, 2013

Thanks for the input. I really liked the picture of the pelican and the water. If only I could afford the beast... Well, may be one day... One can dream...

babiesphotos.ca · Apr 18, 2013

ahsanford said:
Here's the data you want, then:

Primes: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/06/the-other-canon-primes-why-did-they-do-that

Basic finding: 24L II @ F/2.8 > 28 IS @ 2.8 (just barely) > 24 IS @ 2.8
To be fair, all of these are considerably sharper compared to the old flagship 24-70L I.

Zooms: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/01/canon-24-70-f4-is-resolution-tests
Also: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/09/canon-24-70-f2-8-ii-resolution-tests

Basic finding: @24mm, the new 24-70L II truly does stack up against Canon's primes, beating the 24L II @ 2.8
in center and border but just barely losing in the corners. But it's very expensive, and despite improvements
in weight, it's still not a tiny thing to carry around.

Hope that helps. I have to make the statement that resolution is but one of a great many variables in buying a lens, but I would imagine that you know that given your years of shooting. I love the new IS primes as they are small and light, inconspicuous / unassuming (great for street), use a very common filter diameter, are internal focusing, and have the latest focusing tech -- all being upsides in my book.

- A

+1 on the first link. Short quote OP may find useful:

"Like most newly designed lenses, the strength of these new versions appears to be in the corners. You can tell by the average resolution numbers that the new lenses are doing better in the edges and corners than the older ones (I consider the Canon 24mm f/1.4 a new lens). One of the ways they accomplished that, though, appears to be by allowing more distortion (correcting distortion and maintaining sharpness are sometimes a trade-off in wide-angle lens design). The table below shows the amount of barrel distortion in several lenses.

Barrel Distortion Percentage
Canon 24mm f/1.4L II 1.00%
Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L @ 24mm 0.75%
Canon 28mm f/1.8 1.50%
Canon 24mm f/2.8 IS USM 2.10%
Canon 28mm f/2.8 IS USM 1.55%"

rizenphoenix · Apr 17, 2013

Pick up a T2i/550D for around $400 and a tokina 12-24 for $350 on ebay. It will round out your kit nicely.

rizenphoenix · Apr 17, 2013

Sell it and get a 6D, I'm simply amazed with how much better it is than the 18mp crop's.

eml58 · Apr 17, 2013

Great Images, I like your B&W in particular, seems to suit Africa so well.

I see your into the High Contrast work with spades, and in many Images this works well to create a particular impact especially where colour is concerned, my feel though is that it's perhaps a little overdone in todays Photographers, that is not to say it detracts from your images, just that many Photographers have gone down the "Trey Ratcliffe" path & continue to do nothing else, often I feel High Contrast works, but more often I feel it doesn't, I guess it depends on the Image.

But I like your Images, well done.

Hillsilly · Apr 17, 2013

RGF said:
Mostly agree but now Canon has requires 82mm filter on several lens (16-35 II and 24-70II) they may be the new stanndard size. Step up rings are cheap.

Thanks, I hadn't really noticed this trend before. A quick check shows Sigma is also using an 82mm filter thread on some of their lenses.

Apr 17, 2013

Indoors with moving subjects, f/4-5.6 doesn't really cut it. With the high ISO performance of the 5DIII, an f/2.8 lens will work, meaning you can get away with a zoom instead of needing a fast prime.

Zv · Apr 17, 2013

For low light indoor situations a fast prime like the 24mm f/2.8 IS might be the answer. They've come down in price quite a bit, could be worth it to have in your kit. It's small, light and would give you not just an extra stop of light but the ability to shoot at much slower shutter speeds so effectively giving you 4 or 5 stop advantage.

Krob78 · Apr 17, 2013

I think it's time to let this thread die a peaceful death...

Krob78 · Apr 17, 2013

rcarca said:
I don't particularly want to enter into a political debate on this forum, but I thought I would share these two that I took today as the procession passed near my office:

Second hand emotion by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 5Diii, 24-105 @ 105mm, ISO2000, 1/2000 sec at f4.5

Taken as the coffin was transferred from the hearse to the gun carriage.

by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Exactly the same.

I did not necessarily warm to Margaret Thatcher nor did I agree with all of her politics, but I do not like the jubilation at her death. Nevertheless, I couldn't help myself and I had to take this photograph...

Comments (photographic rather than political) welcome!

Thanks for looking

Richard

Looks like your wb is off to me, especially in #2

CarlTN · Apr 17, 2013

CANONisOK said:
CarlTN said:

Without a doubt! Especially if it was outdoors, in the rain.

Seriously, I wonder if anyone has taken anything other than a 1 series to the rainforest, places like the amazon, or Borneo...or even just central america.

Click to expand...

Rainforest... Check. Central America... Check.

Which body was it, and how did you deal with the moisture and humidity?

CarlTN · Apr 17, 2013

Studio 1930, it looks like the dog on the left thinks it's about to get a treat. I hope it got one! I love the bokeh of the lights...and again...the color and contrast of that lens...it's just magic.

I really wish I owned a 200 f/2. Hopefully someday. I think I may post a shot I did with the one I rented in fall 2011, in a landscape photo contest...assuming it hasn't already been closed (and assuming I can still log in). I'm sure it won't go anywhere, though...especially since it's a "portrait" oriented shot. They don't seem to like those. They always prefer a wide angle shot done in one of the parks in the Rockies, or Yosemite. Mine was "only" done in Appalachia...

mingyuansung · Apr 17, 2013

I remember I saw a schedule said Canon support for 1Ds Mark II will stop at July 2014 or some time in 2014. I lost the link of that page. Can someone point me to that information again? I begin to worry about that...

jcollett · Apr 17, 2013

dexstrose said:
Thanks Paul13walnut! I always wondered about that. I thought you had to shoot at 2.8 all the time.

paul13walnut5 said:

No.

From the mid sixties most SLR cameras have had full aperture TTL metering.

That is the iris stops down to shooting aperture at exposure, it remains open before exposure to keep the viewfinder bright for focusing. Meter coupling, and these days electronic interfaces, tell the meter how much to compensate the reading for.

So if you have an f2.8 or faster lens, the af is performed at f2.8 or faster, even if you shoot at f8 all the time.

Click to expand...

If you want to see what your sensor will see when the shutter is activated, use the DOF preview button on your camera. For many Canons, it is on the lower side of the lens mount away from the shutter button. On the 5D mark iii, it was moved to the shutter side of the mount. Regardless, find it on your body and before you take the picture, press and hold that DOF preview button. It will stop down the aperture to your set value and you can see through the viewfinder or live view the actual light amount (and Depth of Field).

Rienzphotoz · Apr 17, 2013

pwp said:
+1 for the 24-70f/2.8 L II

It's so good you could sell every other lens you own except for the 135 f/2 and your 70-200 f/2.8isII. Plenty of others are finding primes in the 24-70 range are sitting unused after getting the new 24-70f/2.8 L II. It's an astonishingly classy, competent lens.

-PW

+1

sullivan06 · Apr 17, 2013

bholliman said:
AJ said:

7D is a heavy camera. How about bringing a T4i

Click to expand...

Or an SL1, even smaller and lighter.

Good suggestions, but the next camera I buy is either going to be a P&S or a full frame (which brings up the debate between the 6d and the 5d mk iii)

sdsr- thanks for the advice about the Tamron's poor IQ.

-regarding a tripod, I've thought about simply bringing a Joby Gorillapod (or similar equivalent) and attaching that to the bike frame.

dswatson83 · Apr 17, 2013

JAlmodovar90 said:
Has anyone gotten there hands on the lens yet? Would it worth getting the 35 1.4 for crop despite the 30 being specifically built for crop?

The Sigma 35mm f/1.4 is much larger and heavier so make sure that is not an issue. The resale on a FF lens like the Sigma 35mm will be higher most likely and the image quality on a cropped camera will be better than the 30mm f/1.4. Plus, if you ever upgrade to FF or rent/borrow a FF camera, the lens will work. It's probably worth it to go with the 35mm IF you don't mind the size, weight, and have the extra $400.

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