Topaz DeNoise is a pretty useful tool that can help minimize banding. I will add the comment that it can make areas of the photo look smudgy and plasticky if overused, though. It can obliterate banding if you crank it up, but then you'll be left with lumpy/blotchy looking shadow areas. So, moderation is key. (Even in moderation, I find after trying to fix pattern noise with it, it's usually best to add grain back into the photo to help cover the plastic look.)

Sith Zombie said:

Hey, I wouldn't worry too much about resale value if I were you, lenses are the real investment. If it's your first DSLR I 'Right! this camera will last me for 4/5 years, by which time I'll have shot thousands of images, learned a heck of a lot about photography and know my camera better than my wife'

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Haven't you read the thread about somebody looking over your shoulder?
You are either very brave or not married...

Btw, I agree with what you say. It is technique that one has to master. Bodies will come and go...

A prime trinity is down to your own preferance really. The idea is to have a wide, standard and tele. I don't really see how in this digital age a 35, 50, 85 combo would be that useful. You might as well spend the money on a good standard zoom. 24, 50, 100 is a nice spread and would be awesome with a 100 macro at the long end. Portrait photogs generally pref the 35, 85, 135 which is what most people regard as the Canon holy trinity so I guess it's the most agreed upon.

The integrity, generosity and professionalism of CPS in Sydney was the one of the prime motivators for me to switch from Nikon late last century. It's move I've never regretted, and I've valued CPS beyond words on countless occasions.

Nikon service may well have improved to match Canon in the meantime...I hope so.

-PW

You can use Canon's 10-20mm on full frame...

Thanks for posting.

i like adorametv

Good tip not to worry about it breaking, I guess I'm just a bit paranoid because it will be the most expensive thing I buy yet!

Definitely going to be getting a converter with it as well. Even with the additional reach of the 1D Mark IIN I find it 300mm too short for rugby, I had the 300mm F/4 on the 40D which was a good bit better but my 40D's IQ is just terrible in comparison, I don't like the shots it produces, no where close to as much detail and I get way more shots out of focus.

Now I just have to save a bit more money before taking the plunge!

Thanks for all the help.

Philippine Bulbul (Hypsipetes philippinus) by alabang, on Flickr

The Philippine Bulbul (Hypsipetes philippinus) is a songbird species in the bulbul family (Pycnonotidae). It is often placed in the genus Ixos, but is better retained in Hypsipetes as long as this is not entirely merged into Ixos, as it is quite closely related to the type species of Hypsipetes, the Black Bulbul (H. leucocephalus).[1]

It is endemic to the Philippines. Its natural habitats are subtropical or tropical moist lowland forests and subtropical or tropical moist montane forests; on Mount Kitanglad on Mindanao for example it is abundant in any kind of primary forest at least between 500 and 2,250 m ASL.[2]

Fledglings of the Philippine Bulbul were recorded on Mindanao in late April, but the breeding season seems to be prolonged as females with ripe ovarian follicles were still found in April and May. Territorial songs are heard at lower altitudes as late as May, while further upslope the birds are silent at that time of year and presumably engaged in breeding activity. The Besra (Accipiter virgatus) has been recorded as a predator of young Philippine Bulbuls, and this or other goshawks might also catch adult birds.[3]

A common and adaptable bird as long as sufficient forest remains, it is not considered a threatened species by the IUCN.[4]

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philippine_Bulbul

Taken: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ternate,_Cavite

Settings: 1/80 ƒ/5.6 ISO160 800mm

Kind of regret selling my 1V HS, but I kept the EOS 3 with battery grip, which does everything one needs. With either one, the sound of frightening frame rate is a reminder you are using $$ film! Digital isn't so bad


IMG_7602 by drjlo1, on Flickr

I voted for the Tameron 24-70 as this lens will give you better coverage in the wide to normal range. The other lenses you listed would also be useful. Primarily depends on what you feel is missing with your current kit.

I guess I need to contact them and see what they say.

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I'd rather had raws straight out of camera that can be compared to corresponding raws of the same scenery from other models.

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agierke said:

buy the speedring that PCB sells on their website. the connection to modifiers is typically universal (some rare instances where a modifier wont fit that well) so you have to buy the speedring that will mount to whatever light you are using.

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So which one should I get with the AB1600? Seems like these are for the retired units?

http://www.paulcbuff.com/speedrings.php

Very cool! I liked that it's a little 'different' compared to other droplet photographs.

I don't shoot wildlife. But this spring I'm shooting track & field and golf. I am taking my 400 f/2.8L IS I tomorrow and Monday for the golf tournament (one camera A) and a 70-200 f/2.8L IS II on camera B. I did a track meet today and while the 300 f/2.8L IS I was great, there were times when I reallly could have used the 400. For instance, sun was going overhead, and from closest to farthest away from me, you had 1. pole vault, 2. javelin (center of track), and 3. long jump (other side of infield). I could have easily gotten pole vault with the zoom and both javelin and long jump with the 400, but alas, I had the 300 and long jump was iffy so I moved.

Re: Canon Inc. Announces Development Of 35mm Cinema Prime Lens, Sixth In A Series Of Compact, Lightw

RGF said:

How large effect is the focus breathing on primes vs zooms? I have heard it can be a problem with macro photography and focus stacking.

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I tend to have more issues with wind/subject motion than focus breathing/macro rail displacement. When focus stacking in PS, you can have the software try to align the source photos to each other before blending them together. The software also scales the photos appropriately.

mb66energy said:

RGF said:

Patents do not guarnatee production. Sometimes they are done to hold IP.

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Shure, but these patents show typical lens designs which penetrate the market since a few years: Standard lenses with a negative front element. This is well known from wide angle lenses for (D)SLRs which use retrofocus designs to give enough space between last lens and image plane.

If I read the patent correctly Canon has decided to use a retrofocus design instead of a double gaussian design to avoid problems with longitudinal CAs: The retrofocus design gives more variability to introduce more lenses/alternative lens geometries to adress longitudinal CA correction without compromising other parameters.

Longitudinal CAs are the main problem with high aperture lenses which aren't easily removed during post processing - I am shure that these patents have a good chance to flow into real products!

Just my 2ct - Best, Michael

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Which is also what Zeiss announced a while back, with their 50mm f/1.4 Distagon (Distagon is their retrofocus, normally found in 21-35mm, or 40-65mm on Medium Format).
Either canon's going down the same path, or they're at least going to patent some to block zeiss.

Haydn1971 said:

So potentially the older faster primes are going to be a non starter - any thoughts on the cheapo 55-200 ?

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The old non VR 55-200 has reasonable resolution for the price, its a bit cheaply constructed, so don't batter it around.

Its going to be a struggle as far as AF and shutter speed, a slow aperture and limited ability to use high ISO settings before noise becomes a problem.
It sounds like the best compromise for your buck, a manual focus lens might be pretty frustrating for flying aircraft, but for those on the ground, it should be easy. Just make sure he keeps his shutter speed to 1/250 or more when zoomed out.
A rental of a faster lens might also be something to consider, but it won't be cheap either.

Here is a review.

http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/245-nikkor-af-s-55-200mm-f4-56-g-ed-dx-review--test-report

...

No need for them to deliver higher resolution - 4K video is less than 10 MP in terms of stills resolution. The 11-bladed apertures (IIRC) might make for some nice bokeh...

Random Orbits said:

I remember those from the 90s. It was impossible to walk anywhere without hearing them crunching underfoot. Not sure if I'd be looking forward to those again.

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Yep, messy and noisy -- but they make for great pictures. They're slow and they stay put, so easy models to work with. The orange/red eyes give you a dramatic, monstrous look.

kcjohnston said:

Thanks for all of the comments / advice. I just ordered the 70-200 2.8 II. Can't wait to try it!

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Awesome...congrats

One down and one more to go - 24-70 f2.8 II next ;D

Marsu42 said:

Indeed, my 60d also doesn't to a proper exposure reduction to x-sync but just overexposes -

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My old 30D had safety shift, that stopped down until sync speed was ok if required. Did the rip that out?
(That way you lose only the stops from the exessive light value, but don't have to pay the HSS-price, about 40% more flash range)

Ricku said:

This is why I'm thinking about switching to full frame mirrorless later this year or the next. Leica and Sony have already proven that FF can be small and light.. Right now, uber expensive Leica is the only choice, but rumor is that Sony and Fuji will release their compact FF systems very soon.

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I hope AF speed will be fast enough for street shooters. I love the IQ on my Sony RX1, but not quite happy with AF speed