Axilrod said:

cayenne said:

Ive Lotus said:

Before MK III:
For the best noise performance shot at 160.
For the best latitude shot at 100 with just a very little more noise. You may notice it if you shoot at very low light.
In emergency cases shot at 320 or 640 but you will cope with some noise.

With the MK III go up to 3200 without worries

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I dunno....I was asking because in the past, I wasn't too concerned about ISO going a little high, and I noticed my videos were plagued with noise, especially in the dark/black areas.

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That's because you need at least a little bit of light, "shoots well in low-light" doesn't mean "shoots well in no light." Adding even a minimal amount of light will reduce the noise even at the same ISO.

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+1 The only reason why you'd ever need really ridiculously high ISO is so you can stop the aperture down a bit, I think for 99% of situations that matter, you won't need to record video past ISO2500 with an f2.8 lens or brighter. Most wedding receptions with a decent lighting setup by the venue I usually shoot candids from the crowd at about ISO1250 anyway. However, there was this one time at a bar where I cranked my 5D mark III up to ISO 20,000 to expose my drunk friend (expose, in camera terms, lol)....Even then, the grain isn't all that bad if you compare it to most other cameras and normally, people won't really care as long you can still see a fair amount of detail in the image.

TrumpetPower! said:

So, while more is awesome, can't we be happy with what we've already got?

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as long as options exist,
never, ever, settle.
Strive for better.
/philosophy

Hey all,

The app was labeled "CR" and it would only show the titles of the rumors on the home page. If you tapped on one of them, it would take you to your phone's browser and show the website.

Gary W.

I'm a gold member and borrowed a 6d from them 2 wks ago and used it on a trip to DC. I didn't have much say in the dates as I was told it was a popular loan, but serendipity intervened. As a result of my experience with that loaner I bought a 6D that arrived today from B&H per the CR price watch page. Excellent.
Anyway.
I didn't even think about insurance, honestly; though Canon lists msrp of 5000 for the body, 24-105L and included accessories. I handled the loaner a little more attentively than my 7D - I was actually evaluating it for purchase, but I don't really bang around my equipment anyway. I sent it back 2-day guaranteed (56.00) which still isn't as expensive as renting as I have in the past, and the equipment is in new-to-refurb condition; which is better for making a true evaluation of it.
I will definitely borrow from Canon again, but expect to limit myself to items I am either considering purchasing, or items I could never imagine affording, in which case I will have to revisit the insurance question...

happened to be best camera when i first bought.. then i got locked in through lenses

I do not like to say things like this but it is reality. Watch out for pick pockets.

Spain is one of the worst places for this.

Enjoy, but be careful.

+1
definitely much better than a browser on a smartphone

Wilmark said:

Is there such a thing as FF nay-sayers? I really doubt it. I think there are FF owners and those who would like to be be FF owners. And the 7D? I used to own one before - its low light performance was really discouraging. I hate to be blunt but the 7d (and the rest of canons line crop line up) sucks and any kind of low light. And those who say they like the 'reach' of the crop sensor cameras, reminds me of the day when people thought that Digital zoom was useful!

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Ahem.

Practically it all comes down to whether your uses require more reach than your glass can give you.

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If you crop an image shot on full frame you are using "digital zoom". If instead you switch to a good crop sensor, you can get much more detail on the subject.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

It would be nice to have a ignore user "XX" function, but we don't have it.

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Not sure if this what you're looking for, but I've done this on occasion:
Go to your profile: http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=account
Hover over "Modify Profile", click on "Buddies/Ignore List", click "Edit Ignore List". Add the username of the person you wish to ignore.
Also, you'll need to have the "Modify Profile -> Look and Layout" checkbox for Hide messages posted by members on my ignore list checked.

When you read a thread that has posts from those users, a placeholder link shows instead of each post, so you can still see the content if you really want to.

rifz said:

Is there a way to start at the beginning of a thread, instead of the end? thanks

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From a specific message, I don't think so, but on the bottom left of every page, you can click the Page 1 link. Also, at the top, in the "path" (eg: canon rumors FORUM » Canon Rumors General » Site Information ), if you click on the subject, that'll go to page one as well.

From the list of topics, clicking the subject itself displays the topic from the beginning. What I usually do is click the "NEW" button, and if I haven't read any messages from that thread I get the beginning, and if I have read some, it goes to where I last read that thread.

Hope that helps.

So after doing a lot of swapping out my new 24-70mm II the other day when I was performing some lens testing, I can kind of see what the OP is talking about. When I was behind the camera (tripod mounted, not much room to stand in front of the camera) it was more difficult to mount than my original 24-70mm. Trying to grip and twist resulted in zooming if I wasn't careful.

Of course, I'm always VERY cautious when mounting a lens, and make sure I hear and feel the click of a secured lens.

I still don't see how someone could accidentally hit the lens release button once the lens is attached, but everyone holds their camera differently.

this is interesting since I have been also going with primes and leaving zooms for the most part espesially after going full frame last year with the 5Dmk3. I have tried a lot and have seen most of the ridicules pricing and this is what I'm currently using. Also keep in mind for stills mainly not so much video at this time.

Sigma 35 f1.4 Bitchen piece of glass
Sigma 85 f1.4 test the AF, i had to micro adjust 2+ on second copy, first one was way off. + CA is not the best.
Canon 100L f2.8, love this lens

And my last is a zoom for begger wildlife for now 70-300L I use this lens with Kenko DGX 1.4 and for compression factor.

Valvebounce said:

No avatar or picture because I haven't found where to add it, or any of the other customisations like a signature bar, is this because so far I have only been accessing the forum on tablets, or is there a minimum number of contributions before I get this privilege?

The historic name for people from my location is Caulkhead the area is Isle of Wight southern England anyone else on here from there or are Devon and Cornwall as close as you get?
Am really enjoying the posts here, you all seem very friendly or at least tolerant as from the forums I haven't seen any real flaming or aggression which is cool.

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Heh, regarding the flaming and aggression.... give it time! I'm from Exeter, Devon. You can customise your signature and avatar in the profile tab at the top of the screen and then the forum profile sub option on the drop down menu once you've racked up a few posts, not entirely sure of the exact number of posts required but certainly no more than 10.

Better body will make the shot easier, but without lens you can not get the shot.

longtallkarl said:

we have a lot of gitzo's where i work, and they do get jammed sometimes. it's one of the few times that i usually just apply more force - rarely do i recommend that when fixing photo equip. but you could also try heating the center column knob with a hair dryer for a few minutes, and it might expand enough to loosen up a bit. good luck!

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Not sure if heating will work (the tightening ring expanding more than cf column) or of cooling would be better. If the hair dryer does work, try putting the center plate and column inside a freezer

RGF said:

I read and sometimes post (tho typing on my ipad is awkward and slow). One problem I have is advancing to the next screen - hitting the tiny numbers on the top left is difficult. It would be helpful if there were first, previous, next and last "buttons" by the screen numbers

Thanks

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I am using the iPad Mini to post this ... I too use iPad sometimes and when I need to advance to the next screen I pinch and zoom the screen to view & hit the page numbers ... I am not saying your suggestion is invalid but don't you use the pinch and zoom function on your iPad? Peace

Oh yeah, you can, that's cool. And very nice.

Peace! 8)

here a scam going on right now: 5Diii with lens $1500 total BS! asking for offers to a email address.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/netherby/digital-cameras/brand-new-canon-eos-5d-mark-three-digital-slr-camera-kit-w-e/1017192666#

for fun I used google to look up the image and found the real item on ebay in Japan for $3400
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251254526902&item=251254526902&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

If you like to shoot wide a lot I would suggest one of these two lenses.

Tamron 17-50 f2.8 for an EF-s solution at about $500US new or $350US used.

-or-

Canon 17-40 L f4 for an EF solution at about $700US new or $600US used.



If you are not shooting wide(ie 17-28mm) Then I would suggest one of these two lenses.

Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 for an EF solution at about $500US new or $350US used.

-or-

Canon 24-105mm f4 L IS for about $800 used(never pay retail for this lens, buy it from someone splitting up a kit)


All of the above have very nice IQ. The two L lenses are two of the most affordable L's and do have much better build quality then the Tamrons.

mcr1photo said:

-new to the forum- Aside from the fact that the sensor is cropped, will the image technology be the same as the 5D mark III?

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The expectation is that it will be new technology and newer/more powerful processing power, and that it may have equivalent ISO capability of the 5D3.... That said, if such new technology emerges, it is a safe bet that a 5D4 is well along the design path and will probably emerge a half year or so after the 7D2 and will probably have 1 1/2 stops (or more) performance over the 7D2.

Has anyone ever done a Comparison of the samyang 8mm fisheye on 1.6 crop vs samyang 14mm on full frame?

I just sold my old backup Canon 10D the other day. I'd have kept it, but needed a backup with liveview.

6MP is plenty to get nice printable images. I've owned most of the popular camera models including the D800. I liked them all. The main issue with the D800 is the difficulty involved in getting that extra resolution that it is capable of. It takes a very careful photographer to do it, and that's not me. Then, you need a powerful computer for any serious post processing, and editing 500 photos is a huge task.

I ended up staying with my 5D MK III, but seriously, any of the DSLR's can capture excellent images, and I'd be happy with any of them if that's what fate dealt me.


Hours before I sold the 10D, I snapped a photo to show the buyer. It was a quick snapshot, but printed nicely at 8 X 10.

You may find the 6D a disappointment unless budgetary considerations rule out a second 5d3.

IMHO backup should be a 5d3 or possibly a 1dx

Go out and take pictures - it's the only test that actually matters.

I enjoyed you portfolio of pictures on your website! Some really nice compositions.

My advice would be to pick up a 17-40mm lens since it expands you range of available focal lengths. Having a second body or 200mm lens would be nice, but doesn't really allow you to make shots you can't today. I have also been looking at adding a UWA zoom or prime at some point.

That said, since you are starting a photography business, adding a second body as "insurance" will be a good idea at some point.

thx for the quick answers.

Thomas