So, first, you can have my four Einsteins...when you pry them from my cold, dead hands.

That out of the way, since the topic has shifted to wall color...you actually want both black and white, often at the same time.

My solution was to paint the walls white and make a bunch of black velvet drapes, including ones I can stretch across the ceiling. With one each black and white Savage vinyl backdrop the same dimensions as the floor, I can turn the room into a black box, a white box, or any combination of either. In a 50' cube of a studio, you don't have to worry about undesired bounce. In your typical suburban home, if you want to control bounce, your only choice is something like what I've done.

In a similar vein...your local home improvement store will sell inexpensive solid styrofoam insulation in 4' x 8' sheets. One side will be flat neutral white (with a clear plastic protective coating with writing designed to be peeled off and discarded) and the other side will be silvered. These make for awesome monster-sized reflectors! You can also paint the white side black (the things are dirt cheap, so get as many as you need) and you've now got an impromptu room divider / giant barn door / whatever. With a bit of tape, you can turn them into v-flats and paint them any color you like. You can also peel off the silvered side if you want white and black or black and black (or white and white or whatever). Also look for 2' x 4' sheets of the same stuff in the same section, both sizes in practically any thickness you could want. All of these you can cut down however you like with just a utility knife.

Enjoy!

b&

timmy_650 said:

Dylan777 said:

rihanishtiaq said:

Don't go for a FF unless you are a serious shooter. I think you should stick to 60D/T4i if you don't spend much time on photography.
The T4i has higher ISO range but the difference is very little.
And about the 70D, it will be very pricey for first few months. At that price or less you will easily get a used 5D markII.

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I'm not serious shooter, just a dad with 2 kids. I shoot with 5D III and my little P&S is RX1.

Higher ISO range doesn't mean cleaner image in lower light. It's all about sensor size - you will have more water when carry bigger bucket.

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I know people who have txi (what ever number you want 1-4) who are serious shooter bc they are always taking pictures. Others is 5D mark ii and iii who aren't they just need to have top of the line stuff.

If this is your first DSLR, I would say just pick up a used 60D, see if you will use one. I know plenty of people who got a dslr and like the P&S better bc they take it places.
You can always sell your 60D again and probably only lose $50-100 in a few months.

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Agreed... the worst camera is the one that isn't used. But even more important than that... learn how to use the thing. Some people (if not most) buy a camera and assume automatic will get better results than they can get... which is a crock. Get a book... heck get a book now and learn depth of field, lighting and composition...

There will be no personal photography it will be illegal, everything will be copy write
…. and on that depressing note good night! :'(

Synomis192 said:

... I mainly shoot at family parties and friendly gatherings. Occasionally I do some landscape photography and interior/exterior photography of buildings

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Try shooting with the 50mm f/1.8 ONLY for awhile. Zoom with your feet. Photos of family and friends look better when shot at a shorter focal length ... 200mm is way too impersonal.

"Robert Capa once said, “If your pictures aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” Capa wasn’t advocating the use of longer lenses; he was telling us to physically get closer — to become more involved and intimate with our subjects. In fact, a wide-angle lens is often a better choice than a telephoto lens when you want to “zoom in” on your subject." http://rising.blackstar.com/if-your-pictures-arent-good-enough-youre-not-close-enough.html

Photography is all about taking meaningful pictures ... not about collecting gear.

Thanks to all of you,
that altogether was the best help I got here so far.
I had no clue that the MKII is out of Support and the fact that the 3ds has already the 60d style menus is really helpfull. I have passed onthe 1dMKII.
In my area used 1D MKIII will sell around 1200 Euro, a !DS MKIII for 2500 Euro
So I will enter new teritory and give the APSH a try.
many thanks again...

privatebydesign said:

After using all three methods, traditional, back button AF, back button AF off, I settled on the last, it has all the advantages of independent control that traditional doesn't, but not the thumb committing and tiring disadvantage of method two. I strongly recommend people play with all their settings to find out what works best for them in any particular scenario.

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I shoot like private does with AF-On as AF Off, and I really like it for the same reasons he mentions.
It blows the mind of my bird shooting friends, but it works well for me. I find that I find the need to kill AF far more than I find selectively activating AF useful.

No problem Cheers

The 17-40L can take photos indoor handheld without flash, but it will often make the camera jump up to ISO 12,800. I'm using a 5D3. If I were shooting indoors a lot and needed a zoom I would consider the 16-35L II instead. The same ISO 12,800 shot at f/4 on the 17-40 would be ISO 6,400 shot at f/2.8 on the 16-35. If you are almost exclusively indoors and still want to shoot handheld with no flash, and don't mind giving up zoom, you'll want to go with a fast aperture prime lens such as the 24mm f/1.4L. The same ISO 12,800 shot at f/4 on the 17-40 would be ISO 1600 on the 24 prime at f/1.4. In this situation you're trading sensor noise for lower depth of field though.

brad-man said:

Rienzphotoz said:

brad-man said:

You might also consider a Tamron SP24-70 f/2.8 VC. It's sharper than the Canon mk l

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I have the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC and I agree that it is a good choice but it is definitely not sharper than the 24-70 f/2.8 MK I ... if VC/IS is not important to you, it is better to get the 24-70 f/2.8 MK I (if you can find one).

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our favorite-DxOmark

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Ha ha ha ... don't drag me there ;D ;D ;D

brad-man said:

Roger @ LR and our favorite-DxOmark says that not only is it sharper than ver 1, it is a close second to version 2. The price and VC are just gravey...

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I'm no expert like Roger of LR or DxO but in my very limited experience I found the sharpness of EF 24-70 L & 24-70 VC to be in distinguishable ... but when it comes to the sharpness of EF 24-70 L II the Tamron is no match ... I had the 24-70 L II, unfortunately it was stolen ... bcoz I could not pay another $2200, so I went with the 24-70 VC plus I got it for over $250 less than the regular US price ... its a brilliant lens and worth the money but if I could, I would still go with the 24-70 L II.

I use a Lee filter polarizer/ND combination due to the range of movements that I employ with this excellent lens...

The other thing you should look into is the Adobe Flat field plug-in for Lightroom. This plug-in lets you calibrate the raw processing of images taken with shift to reduce/eliminate the CA and other optical issues that occur when using a lot of shift. Check it out at Adobe labs.

George Pappas

Don't take too many pictures of my food... just appears 85 1.2 could be an overkill and 200m could be a tad too long.

Do you know how to create photo canvas. I know how to get quality photo canvas.

___________________
photo canvas

paolotaverna said:

1- I tried to remove battery.....nothing
2- removed lens..and re-attached
3- put in my 50 f1.2 ....nothing

i changed the priority to release...took one shot...then put back my setting or priority to focus..and all was good after that

now i can't reproduce it

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I had similiar but different problem
Just bought the camera on 13 March After a few days and around my 50000 shot my focus problem started.
( ps I mainly use 12FPS mode and the 70-200 2.8 is usm and similiar(16-35 2.8) or worse(70-300 DO) for other lens)
( I am doing a shooting for the same dancing concert for 9 consecutive days it occur after the 4th day and the first few days were perfectly fine )
from time to time I cannot focus in one shot mode. as soon as switch I back to MF for 1 or 2 shutter release and turn back to AF it works again, then after a while it happen again. and repeatable. The AF ok period seems to deteriorate after another 5000-10000 shot.

Then I start to try the Ai-servo mode. Seems like the first few shot is out then in focus for a long period in ai-servo mode. If I switch back to single-shot the above will happen again.

Any one have any suggestions (take back to repair?)

[/quote]
Thanks. Yes I hope to set up another session sooner or later.
[/quote]
then, i would like to join with
feel free to drop me an email, [email protected]
c ya.

Re: 5D2 Refurb Received - Shutter Actuations

I believe my refurb 7D came with 2-3K actuations. I could not check them until software arrived that worked for it, but I knew about how many shots I took before I check the actuations.. I was pleasant surprised to see about 200 actuations on my refurb 5D MK II that I bought last July.
Its pretty easy with that camera to shoot over 1000 images in a day.

Cory said:

I'm tossing around keeping my T1i and maybe adding one of the upcoming Rebels. Maybe the little one with a little prime.
If I do that (or even go with the little prime on my T1i and maybe a 7D II one day) would I be using the same Canon software for both cameras or would I use the software that came with my T1i for the T1i and the new software with the new camera? And, if the latter, would the correct software recognize the right camera?
And my processing software is LR4.
Thanks for any insight into that whole topic.

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If you buy a new Canon DSLR, the software that comes with it is backward compatible to older models.
You will have to wait for Lightroom 4 to be updated, but you can use DPP to convert raws for one or 10,000 images in a batch and send them to Lightroom as .tiff images.

90% of hockey action is thru glass. Best fix is curves ( white & black clip in CS6 ) then use high pass to sharpen, then some dodge and burn for localized contrast adjustment! No color adjust, it is what it is... Wicked Shot BTW!!

NorthDallas40 said:

privatebydesign said:

Though in low light this could be another benefit, shoot at f1.4 for the shutter speed but get the dof of f4, win win. Unless you wanted very shallow dof!

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Great idea. 1.4 or anything under 2.8 has razor-thin dof's. Sometimes that's good, but often it would be preferable to get a little more dof while still enjoying the shutter speed possible with a wide aperture. I'll experiment with this at a party we plan to attend tonight.

Thanks again.

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VelocideX said:

Thank you to all the advice, particularly from those who actually read my post

I don't have the 16-35L, and this would be a great lens for it. I don't have the cash for it at the moment.

RLPhoto - no idea why dance receptions are relevant to this...

LOALTD - I understand the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 is pretty good, but I have the 35L and so have no compelling reason to buy it. I keep reading about autofocus issues, even with the Sigma, and so went for the 35L instead and have been pretty happy with it. I was hoping for the 35L II but this seems like a fantasy.

TrumpetPower! - I do have the 40mm pancake but hadn't considered it - 2.8 is only one stop faster than f/4, and with the high ISO capabilities of the 5D3 I would choose the 24-105 f/4 over the 40 f/2.8. The reason to go for the primes in this environment would be to get substantially more aperture. I love the colour rendition of the 24L. I do take your point about it being more easily passed off as amateur though. My 40mm stays on my camera a lot of the time when I'm doing street photography as it is less conspicuous.

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Sorry, I responded before my morning coffee!

Out of your collection, the 24-105 will be fine, especially if you are shooting with flash. I dont own a 5d3, but my 50D hunts like crazy in some scenarios without the faster lens or flash assist. Barring that, I think the flexibility for the unexpected will be pretty well suited with the zoom.

Lets see some of your work when you are done, and please check out the link I posted earlier. There is WAAY more info on that link that can help you out with tackling how to shoot in clubs.

Thank you actually, you gave me a push to go out and shoot tonight...

Regards..

What I don't understand is why Canon can't release a 36 MP FF sensor???
FF matrix is more than twice the area of the APS-C sensor so even by using the same technology they introduced in 7D over 3 years ago, Canon can start putting out 36 MP full frames.
It seems like now even more than ever Canon needs to step up and show Nikon that we can do it too!

If you use the 2x, then you have to do 2x + extension + 100L.

So with the extension tubes you have 1.68x, and with the 2x you have 3.36x - though the quality will suck and your minimum focus distance will be nil.

If you want to go above 1x then the MP-E 65 is your best bet.

OK, I'm a relative newbe to this site after being more active on NAPP and POTN, but since you'll are talking about this Neuro guy, here's my 2 cents...
I like him...Why, well I'm glad you asked. There is a fair number of folks out there that opine that one needs to develop his own style, a recognizable body of work.

Not me, I don't want to be known as a macro, or landscape, or street, or critter photographer...I just want to be able to do a reasonably competent job at them all.
Based on Neuro's flickr site, it would appear that although our philosophies coincide, not much else does...color me green.

Firmware 1.2.1available for EOS 1DX

"Canon has announced that a firmware update for its flagship EOS-1D X DSLR (Version 1.2.1) is now available for download. See below for details of the exact firmware fixes and improvements.

EOS-1D X Firmware Version 1.2.1
Firmware Version 1.2.1 for the EOS-1D X incorporates the following improvements and fixes:

The function to disable the Image size selection button has been added.
Fixes a phenomenon in which Err 70 and Err 80 may occur in very rare instances depending on the camera settings or shooting scene.
* EOS-1D X Firmware Version 1.2.1 is available to download – please click here, then enter your country and camera details and select the firmware option to download the firmware. The version 1.2.1 firmware being released this time is for EOS-1D X cameras with firmware up to version 1.1.1. If your camera's firmware is already version 1.2.1, it is not necessary to update the firmware. Please remember to read all of the instructions carefully before downloading the firmware."

RGF said:

neuroanatomist said:

I infer several reasons. Overly contentious to no point, descent into a flame war, old threads resurrected to no apparent purpose have all been reasons I've seen threads locked. I believe an OP can also lock their own thread (or maybe just delete it, not sure...).

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I would hope (which means nothing since I do not have a vote here) if a thread was locked because it was redundant with an old topic, that the admin / moderate would point to key discussions on the topic.

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I do not think that threads get locked for being redundant to old topics. Sometimes several members post the same topic at about the same time, they are merged, not locked.


I saw one yesterday where a person asked for help last June 2012, and suddenly someone started posting telling him how to fix his problem. It was probably locked because further comment did not make sense.

There are also those with dozens of flaming posts that need to be stopped, and locking the topic is sometimes the best solution.

Don't do it. Complain to paypal and file a request for repayment. They will return your money.
When a online store does not give a address and phone number on their website, they do not want you to be able to locate them.

I also noted a "In Association with Amazon.com" logo. A search of Amazon USA and a search of Amazon UK does not come up with DWI Camera, and neither does a google search.

Kristofgss said:

baervan said:

I have to say that very small DSLR are very ugly, this being the ugliest of all. I'm sure that it has the build quality of a Bic pen. If it had the smooth design of a NEX for example it would totally hit the spot and I think it would sell like crazy..

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The point is exactly that there is an optical viewfinder in there, so you can't design it flat like the sony. Besides which, if you are used to the Canon EOS series, the design seems perfectly intuitive. I fyou want a NEX, just get a NEX, it's a different target audience.

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Same audience, different application