The Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM is a very sharp lens with a beautiful bouquet. Strongly recommend.

I've always wanted to try one of those super zooms. I could see how there would definitely be a trade off in weight and IQ (to some extent).

I can vouch for the 70-200mm versatility on full frame. I use the F4 L IS version and love it. Light and easy to wield. I did, however, miss the long end of 300mm on a crop. So I eventually added a 100-400 F4.5-5.6L IS to the kit. If you shop used you can get both of those for less than the 70-200 F2.8 L II and a 2x TC. The 70-300L interests me as well, but the above post about visible CA is the first I've heard of any flaws. I havent researched it thoroughly though.

On the wide end, thr canon 17-40 F4 L does a great job, and is a lot cheaper than the 16-35. With the awesome high ISO performance of the 5D Mk III I'd save the bucks on the lens if you decide to get a zoom in that range.

-Brian

Can you post some samples of your best shots with that camera?

Does Canon offer licensing options to 3rd party lens manufacturers?

The point is to transfer this feature to other cameras (OK the new ones) and allow them to produce jpgs from the
processed raws. I know it seems too much but usually someone wants to give jpgs to others not raw files.

Anyway this is NOT for me (and my 5DII). But I respect someone's wish to be able to do so since Canon made the first step in this direction. I just mention how I think this feature would make more sense:

1. To add it to the new cameras (5DIII, 1DX) and
2. To produce jpgs from the raw files (in addition to existing unprocessed jpgs

I am starting to see sale pricing on the 60D. Last time I observed sale prices like this, the T4i replaced the T3i. While these are just internet prices and Canon Store prices, I will keep an eye on local brick and mortar shops in the Detroit area to confirm my suspicions.

Could this be a build up to the October anticipation of the 6D?

Is the 70D nearing release to the masses?

Just stirring the pot!

I am a platin member from Canon Europe.

If you need the help badly, no one can help. If you report many errors (5D Mark III and 1D X) no update came up a few month ago.

If you need very quick answers in a day, write to Canon Thailand. If you want to buy something, forget many of the CPS-Dealers. I have better informations about products.

If you want to try something out that is not on the market, you need to have good contacts to the Canon headquarter in Japan.

Thanks Sean - wasn't too much $$ wise..just put it up on craigs list today see if I can get any bites

Lots of people happily using these and others... They are by far not "perfect" lenses (some would even say "good" lenses), but they have a lot of character.

Check this forum:
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/forumdisplay.php?193-Lens-Discussion

And this (incredibly long) thread in particular:
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?201760-The-Vintage-Lens-Thread

An also my sharpness and bokeh tests, including the Helios 44-2 and the MIR-20:
http://www.similaar.com/foto/lenstests/lenstestsa.html
http://www.similaar.com/foto/lenstests/lenstestsv.html
http://www.similaar.com/foto/lenstests/bokehtests.html


edit:
when I say they have character, I mean something like what you'll find at the final section of this blog post:
http://timurcivan.blogspot.com.es/2012/07/the-big-changes.html
including:

58mm Helios 44-2 F2.0 - My shining little star. Perfect portrait length, with a stunning vignette, softness while maintaining enough of the good resolution, and the most beautiful yet bizzarre bokeh i've found to date. Looks like a Dream.

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Of course, "a stunning vignette", and "softness" as a good thing, are not things you read about very often. But you should trust that guy, he knows what he's doing
(of course, with such "special" lenses, you also need to know what you're doing!! test the hell ouf of those lenses, and learn when they are useful, and when it would be a mistake to put them on your camera)

Finally it's here, about to unbox and kiss the baby...lol

The Schneider has a warm tone similar to the B+W.

NIK Color EFEX Pro 4 might have a filter combination to fix this. I know this doesn't fix a potential issue with your camera but if you have a bunch of images you still want to salvage.... Also some lens correction in PS would help. ;D

I have both the 60mm macro used on a 50D and a 100mm L Macro that I use on the 5D Miii.

Both are really sharp. Obviously the 60 can't be used on the full frame, which is why I purchased the 100. I haven't used the non-L 100, but I can tell you that the L version is awesome and the stabilizer helps in a lot of situations were I would normally have used a tripod. If you can swing it, I would opt for the L version of the 100mm.

I also have the 17-40L and while I really like the versatility of the lens (and the price), you will not get the same results trying to shoot close-ups. 40 mm on full frame just doesn't cut it. I use the 17-40 mostly for landscape photos. If I were shooting weddings I would probably opt for the 16-35L for the extra stop in low light.

M.ST said:

ALL-I is better in quality and better in cutting.

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I respectfully disagree.... as HurtinMinorKey stated, even if you have more bits per frame, those need to represent the full frame, on each frame, while the other one, only the difference so at the end, you see less compression with the IPB than with the ALL-I yes it is easier to edit with it, but if it comes to image quality, I rather have IPB by far.

I would think that if only the very best use the very best, then no one would make the very best because there are so few of the very best...I'm sure someone can say this better, but hopefully you get my point...

smithy said:

ageha said:

Are the bodies where the serial number's 6th digit is greater than 2 all fixed with duct tape ("proprietary weather/light sealing material") too or did Canon redesign the camera internally a bit?

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My understanding is that they changed the design a bit... I could be wrong though.

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Interesting nobody seems to know how Canon fixed it. I don't want to buy a body for SG$4k with duct tape inside.

corner performance seems to be an issue with the tamron lens - this can be expected looking at the mft charts and test charts at the-digital-picture confirm this - even though i'm not sure these are the final results. corner to corner performance of the canon mark I is better. corner performance of the canon mark II must be awesome - if the mft charts are for real.

87vr6 said:

...but there is nothing in writing in the manual to make actually think or believe that.

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Agreed - it should state that, but it doesn't.

So full frame might just be it for you! Do you find your kit lens to be wide enough in room shots, just not fast enough?

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The kit lens is wide enough for room shots, it's just not fast enough like you stated. If I bought the Canon 5Dc w/ Canon 28-135, I think I'd be fine with that combo for now. I'm a bit worried though, many people complained that on a FF body, the Canon 28-135 is soft in the corners.

Yup, you nailed it. You def need a specialized wiiide lens, whether you're using cropped or full frame.. your 18-55mm on the T1i is about the same as 28mm on full frame, so you'd need to go to at least 24mm on full frame to do better. If you don't mind the wide-itude of 18mm on your T1i, then the 28mm prime, or that Tamron 28-70 I mentioned (but it sounds like you probably should look at a wide prime over a 2.8 zoom) should be OK. Otherwise, you'll find 28mm lacking, too.

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I don't actually have a problem with the 18mm on my T1i, in fact I think it's really wide for my taste. I do like that focal length. So I'll stick with you suggestion of getting the Tamron.

But my main concern is, for the 5Dc, the shutter count. That camera was like $3K when it came out, so it was probably mostly pros buying it, which means lottssss of shutter actuations. I've seen listings of 5Dc's that explicitly mention they've had their shutter replaced. That's a goood thing! : D Look for that (or ask..)

Click to expand...

I've been looking into all of the Ebay listings, Amazon listings, and Craiglist listings for the shutter count. If the camera was recently serviced, I wouldn't mind paying about 750. If it hasn't been serviced, or has a high shutter count, I'd barter for about $600.
-Side Note: If I replace the shutter on the 5Dc, does that mean I have a new 100,000 shutter life?

BozillaNZ said:

BozillaNZ said:

Let's not beat the dead horse again, in terms of image quality, 5D will smoke any APS-C camera ever made.

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He must be smoking pot. I find 5Dc's ISO performance a lot better than 50D.

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... Aren't you guys both praising the 5Dc haha?

Lee are awesome. Have been using them for years. BTW - you don't necessarily need the Proglass filters. I actually like the Resin ones... they seem a bit hardier (I've dropped them onto rocks a few times) and there is no color cast (that's the reason to go with Lee).

Just make sure you get the Wide Angle Filter Adaptor Ring....

You need to be careful with the construction material, particularly of the plate and clamps etc.

They are using a manfrotto head and sticks, something like a 503 would probably be required to support the weight of the crane and leave you with camera lens and ancillaries capacity.

You could mount such a head on cheaper legs, like the 055 series, which are good for up to 8KG depending on the model you pick.

You would probably need to shop around, or perhaps even used.

I'd rather buy something at say $300 that won't fail than something at $200 that will get wrecked and perhaps even wreck your camera along the way.

my menu setting for micro lens adjustment is just simply not working... every time i try to select micro adjust for new lenses its giving me a "waiting..." but doesn't change from that! any help would be much appreciated...

makes sense. thanks

DB, I'm not sure what point you're inviting me to make now but anyway, I was only trying to say that bitembek noted some views about European buyers that were a little sweeping in their generalisation, to the extent of being very amusing to me (as a European).

I'm reading confusing things, but does anyone happen to know if I can get the focusing screen that shows true dof faster than 2,5 for the 1d X?

Think it was EG-S for the 5d mkII.