Very, very cool. Bravo for some great work both at capture and in presentation.

m said:

gobo

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thanks, I learned a new word

... and that makes it 2:2

You will need eggcrate modifiers in small spaces because light bouncing around will reduce the effect you are trying to create.

I use two Cheetah Boxes 24x24 and the eggcrate (soft, foldable) comes with the unit. Bigger boxes are available with eggcrate, too. Look at the Fotodiox units, availalbe from Amazon or directly. 24 can be too small for portraits that include more of the body.

Buy simple muslins and black cloth, too, for light control.

jonathan7007

Thanks folks! I'm definitely going to buy a Nikon, then.

Just kidding. I think I'm going used 7D this time despite the marginal improvement in low light performance... appreciate the different views. Then I'll be 2 years less behind the times.

distant.star said:

.
I remember seeing this one a few years ago. Still my favorite:

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That's amazing. I love the way how the scene was modified throughout, with things like the clock appearing, and the yardstick. Pure genius.

Re: walking around lenses...

I hate walking around with a big zoom on a full sized body. I can't enjoy my walk, or my vacation that way. And it's not just the weight, I worry about letting the camera/lens bump into stuff or being stolen.

The pancake lens is a great way to reduce weight and bulk for "walking around" or as I call it, doing the tourist thing. I like to put it on my little T2i which is super lightweight itself. Now that really is a walking around combo!

Me too, but on my problems, everything is alright, and shutter count start at 0001 when i first bought the camera. after at least 900 shoot, i remove the card, moving the files to the computer, then suddenly when i shoot, the count started at IMG_8xxx

p.s I use same card (sandisk extreme pro 16GB)

anybody ever have the same problem?

First I am not an expert and have been thinking of getting the speedliters handbook myself. First you have not mentioned how you plan on using the flash, first curtain, second curtain or high speed sync.
Normally I just set it to M and make a couple of test shots and leave it there. But sometime use it with Av mode. If you just want to use it for general snap shots or group photos you can force the default shutter speed as filo64 mentioned.

filo64 said:

With the 5D Mark III, you can set "Flash sync. speed in Av mode" to be AUTO, 1/200 - 1/60 A or 1/200 (fixed). The details are on page 192 in the manual (both the pdf and the hardcopy, I believe).

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For TV in first and second curtain modes you will be limited by the max sync speed of the camera. But i found it rarely sets the aperture to my liking which is the reason to use M.

You can use a flash to get effects in low light that are impossible otherwise. On method is to use Av to expose the ambient background and the flash on second curtain to stop motion. This will give a sense of motion in the photo.

High speed sync is a completely diffident beast I sometimes use it for fill flash. But I am far from an expert and find my self shooting in the dark until I get the effect I want.

Yes, the contacts that deliver power for AF also deliver power for IS.

FWIW, the fastest and easiest way I've figured out to set AFMA is just set up on tripod, set aperture wide open then take a picture of a window screen at about a 45 degrees horizontal off perpendicular. Zoom the shot on the camera LCD all the way and verify where the vertical "focused strip" of screen is in relation to zooming the center of the shot. Adjust AFMA to get the "focused strip" in the center. I'll itterate between focusing from further out and focusing from closer in and then "average" the results to settle on the AFMA setting used. I have found this to be very accurate and quick...the texture and color of the screen really shows the focus zone prominently and the faster the lens the better it shows. LOL, maybe I'll get torched for offering such an unscientific and gadget free approach, but the shots afterwards pass the pixel peeping tests.

Do not use AI Servo in low light
It has little to do with the lens. Its very difficult for a camera to find focus in low light and takes a second or two. No way can it AF continuously in very low light.
Just use one shot and center point if the light is very low.

B + W filters. They are superior to Canon.

xps said:

I just returned from an meeting of our local photoclub and I am a little bit dissatisfied.
Three members bought an 6D and we compared the pics. And they are really different. They took the same lens to shoot equal macro photos. The IQ is visible different. One cam had obiously more noise >400, the other one´s IQ was visibly more flat (color and contrast).
The owners of the 6D will tra to send it to Canon to optimize the IQ.

In my eyes it ist dissatisfying, if you spend 2000€ and a lot of time in choosing the "right" camera. And then it is just fortune if you get an goog model or not.
Sorry, but I had to say this.

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It is very unlikely that the cameras are at fault for the difference. I'm quite happy with mine.

As to whether Canon deliberately made it a lesser camera than they could have, yes and no: They naturally made it to a specific cost, that would allow them to manufacture and sell it with a healthy margin, in a way that doesn't hurt the sale of the 5D III too much. Shaving a third off the cost of the 5D III means a lot of cost cutting. The only compromise I disagree with is the smaller screen, it looks like they could have fitted the 3.2" unit. If dropping the GPS could have paid for that, they should have. But they clearly see it as the enthusiast traveller's camera, and as such it does make perfect sense.

Thanks everyone for your helpful responses. I think I may go with the Phottix Strato II.

Another really happy user of 5d mkII. I 've got it since '08, and plan to have it till its dead. But if I was to buy now a new camera it would be mkIII, if I could afford it, of course.

The new Sigmas promise better QC but the optical formula of the 17-70mm is, as far as I know, unchanged. So, what you'll be getting should be something akin to a golden sample of the previous version.

The 30mm f/1.4 and 17-70mm lenses have different uses and advantages so a comparison doesn't mean much. Just be aware that the zoom won't match the low-light ability or thin depth of field of the 30mm. If, as you say, you've got a good copy of the 30mm, I'd recommend you hang on to it if you possibly can.

The part I think is neat is that the video could be shot using either dx or fx format. That type of functionality would be great if canon could use its software to control the sensor size to either be FF or aps-c on an actual FF sensor. That would allow beginners a smooth transition to a FF camera while allowing them usage of any existing lens that they have. I'm sure there would have to be trade offs such as 24mp FF or when using apsc mode it would be 12 or 15 mp. Even better would be for the camera software to recognize the lens and switch automatically so that there aren't any mistakes when photographing.

This could open up a ton of demand. Further thinking, this would allow canon to reduce the number of sensors that they have to make. People love to hack. Could you imagine if canon put these sensors in the rebel line but locked them down to apsc size? You would develop huge community of people that would learn how to jail break their camera just like an iPhone to get the FF capability. It wouldn't matter to canon because the cost of the sensor has already been taken in account with the initial sale of the camera, but the camera would still be limited by the af/IQ of the rebels. Prosumers and pros would still buy the higher end cameras and canon would be in a better position to sell glass which is where it makes most of its money anyway. People like to tinker with things like that, just look at majic lantern. If you jail break your camera, you would still need to buy ef lenses to use the sensor size.....

elmaestro said:

Have owned a 60D since December 2011, first DSLR. Have become addicted. Want a second body now to have a different lens available at some shoots, but also for taking on camp outs where I am worried about ruining the 60D. Thinking that T3i is the best choice because the body alone is so cheap and still get a similar IQ to the T4i and the 60D. What is your vote?

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If you are worried about destroying or damaging your camera while camping, have you considered a pelican case? It is a hard shell case, waterproof, customizable foam padding, etc. I have been using them for years canoeing and they have saved my gear on more than one occasion. We use them at work.... I stood in disbelief as $200,000 of electronics slid off the deck of a frigate and splashed into the Atlantic, then it bobbed to the surface.... We hauled it aboard and it was dry and worked!

Thanks everybody for the replies.I think I'm going to wait till I'm clear on contrast, color rendering and flare control capability of the 2.I just don't want to regret my purchase later,which ever lens I buy,I'm low on funds and in the cost of IS I can easily get a 17-40 so I hope u can understand my dilemma

Thanks in advance

Thanks guys for the helpful posts.

TexPhoto, I've used the 300 IS I before, loved the IQ but its a bit of a beast. The sigma looks a lot more compact, would you agree?

Mt Spokane Photography said:

The 17-55 is much better than the 17-40, but its also more expensive. If you want to go to FF, get a 6D and a 24-105mmL. A big step up IMHO.

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I think that is outside of his price range. If he gets a GREAT deal on the 6d and 24-105 for 2400, I don't think he has the set aside funds for it as described (even if he sold all of his stuff). These are best case scenarios... $500 for the t3i and 18-55 if he's lucky, 100 for the 50mm f/1.8, 300 for the 50mm f/1.4, 170 for the 55-250, and let's say 700 he was going to spend on the 17-40. That totals to 1770... so he's still 600+ away.

Thanks for the replies every one. I got the EF 16-35 f2.8L II before the rebate expired. I am guessing it will serve my needs just fine.

Don Haines said:

I just don't get the title of the thread.... Canon comes out and says that a 7D2 is coming this year and that it will be revolutionary..... someone please explain to me how that gets translated to "Future of Semi-Pro DSLR is FF"

"MM: Yes, they would be correct. For us, it’s about looking at what the camera has the potential to be and then adding that to what it can currently do. I do think the current model is still very attractive to buyers. And while we are, of course, developing its successor, it’ll be one that incorporates a certain number of innovative technologies. We will not be putting out a product with merely better specs, but one that has evolved into new territory. But then again, we’re not talking about something a long time from now either."

? ? ? ?

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There have been two interviews in January with Mr Maeda, Canon's camera boss.

In the fist one he confirmed the 7DII. That's the one that you've quoted.
In the second one, from DPreview, Mr Maeda is quoted saying:

• MM: From our semi-pro users there's still demand for APS-C but in the future, I think we will see an increase in the number of full-frame models.

I think it's a given that both the 70D and the 7DII will be announced this year.
The future that Mr. Maeda is talking about is at least three-four years from now.

justawriter said:

Here is a link to an article what NR does and how it affects shooting.
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/high_iso_noise_reduction_article.shtml

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This is why I like this forum.... I notice something strange... ask a question, and the answer(s) are given. Thanks all!

Dustin, much grattitude for your detailed and quick response! My goal is certainly not to make a living from landscape and wildlife...more like to try to eek out a similar percentage that you are doing.

Are you familiar with Marc Adamus? One of his shots got me re-inspired for photography. Not sure how big of a deal he is now.

Indeed, landscape is very fulfilling. In my younger days, I fancied myself an artist and wanted to design cars. I sent my idea to its intended target, a manufacturer in Germany. Three months later, they returned it with some legal forms which I never signed. The copy of my design had been folded up and worked over a lot. Alas, it was not a realstic goal for me. Not enough people get to do it. I also, always felt drained after drawing or painting something. I never feel that way when shooting photographs that I love...or even of editing them (after a few hours at a time it gets old, of course.) If it's photo work that I don't love, then I definitely dislike spending time with it, but sometimes that has to be done.

But it was strange back in art school, that all of my classmates felt doing their work was therapeutic. It never was for me.

I also like to write, but too many people seem to be doing that these days, too. Every form of creativity is highly subjective, did you know that?