sorry I checked and the actual policy is with Vero AON are just the brokers

Wireless control for shooting video.

Big step up cash wise, fancied the samyang for a while.

Bit stung by my recent sigma experience tbh.

Here are some 100% crops top 2 are 300 +2x TC on 5dmk3 wide open then 1 stop down
second 2 are the eos M with 70-200 +2x TC wide open and 1 stop down

To my eye the 17-40 appeared a bit sharper in the centre with only marginal corner improvements found in the Zeiss 18. All my tests were at f8. I rarely shoot UWAs wider.

(And colour, contrast etc were not much different to my eyes).

As for the reference to corner sharpness in the 16-35 and by recognized extension, the 17-40, there is some general sponginess at F8 in the corners/edges vs the results I've seen from the TS lenses and the Zeiss 21.

Canon will survive

Aglet said:

but still no 5d2 samples for me to compare.. from anyone?...

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Exactly.

Since none of us bother trying to recover images where the flash didn't fire, none of us have ever had problems with noise in Zone -2 shadows. And none of us care what kinds of noise may or may not lurk in Zone -2 shadows.

You're the guy claiming that brand X car is complete junk because it can only do 45 MPH in first gear, while brand Y car is totally awesome because it can do 50 MPH in first gear. All the rest of us are telling you you're an idiot for waiting so long to shift gears, and that we're not at all interested in seeing how fast we can drive in first gear.

And then you have the nerve to insult us for not bothering to test-drive our cars way past redline for you to see just how fast we can get them to go in first gear.

(Of course, the car analogy breaks down at this point, as there's no danger from exposing images in a pointless manner. But why bother wasting our time on something as stupidly pointless as seeing what kind of noise there is in a lenscap-on shot with enough digital gain to put it in Zone III?)

Cheers,

b&

Unfortunately to my eye - more and more there are less 'true' foreigners participating in Trinidad Carnival. It is to a large extent patronized by locals and returning 'locals' who have expatriated themselves in foreign urban areas of the world - Florida, New York, Toronto, London etc., and make an effort to visit Trinidad once every two years to visit family/friends, childhood places and take in Carnival at the same time. (Niki Minaj is an example of one such person who came back to film one her recent videos (pound the alarm) in TT with a familiar carnival setting.

So any sx160is successor rumored or announced ?

My recent experience has been...switching color profiles when viewing/editing a RAW file, from Adobe RGB to ProPhoto RGB...sometimes gives a more natural color palette via my monitor, but it also always makes the apparent color saturation, less so. This translates the same when I convert to jpeg. So, even though the image portrays more of the dynamic range (there's little need for recovery of the shadows or the highlights when I switch to ProPhoto)...it also seems to "crush" much of the tonality and color in the shadow areas...especially after converting to jpeg.

I don't usually see a reason to shoot in jpg mode, but when I do it, I still leave the camera set to Adobe RGB, and haven't noticed a problem with the color when viewed on my monitor. I don't print many of my images that were originally shot as jpg.

I really see no reason to ever shoot in sRGB mode, because again, the resulting jpgs after conversion, look as good or better via web-sized images, as those done in sRGB. What makes more difference for a small jpg viewed on the web, are the various attributes the host web page decides for you...especially how they decide to make the thumbnail-sized images "pop" or not. I admit I don't comprehend their methods very much.

If theres only a few I'd do them for you.
What software are you using?

Set the render disks to the fastest available non systems disk, there will be audio and video render, put both in same place.

Set the capture disk to the slower USB disk, and copy your camera files here, and take them into premiere from here.

The main thing is that premiere is pointing the renders to the fast drive.

64gb isn't an awful lot of space. If your system is running happily from the 64gb then let it be, use the new bigger one for renders. They pile up when you start making changes, adding colour correction, text, tweaking audio etc.

You can always trash renders once your project is completed and you have a high quality finished version.

NANPA (North American Nature Photographers Association) is holding their annual Summit in Jacksonville, FL, Feb 28 - Mar 3, 2013. Canon Professional Services will be there. I'll be there, too, and was wondering if any other CR Forum members are planning to attend.

https://vimeo.com/59613233

https://vimeo.com/59642343


Used Equipment:
Canon C100
Zeiss CP2 18mm/35mm/85mm

“A human being is only breath and shadow.” – Sophocles
This quote from Sophocles inspired me to shoot this short film.
It was a really nice experience to work with Canon C100. I pushed the ISO up to 4000
because i wanted to see how much noise will be generated.
Of course there is some grain in the picture but the low light ability of the Canon C100
is still amazing.
Working with the Compact Prime Lenses was uncomplicated. The Magnifier Button, which operates also during
recording is an amazing tool.
The form factor of the C100 is very handy and you are able to make your shots in a quick and comfortable way.

wickidwombat said:

Rienzphotoz said:

wickidwombat said:

Rienzphotoz said:

wickidwombat said:

this lens cap works well
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/82mm-82-White-Balance-Lens-Cap-WB-Custom-Filter-Mount-/320912060671?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4ab7d970ff

see in the pic there is a seperate ring? that is supposed to screw into the filter thread and the cap is a snug pop on or off fit its snug enough that by not bothering with their supplied ring the cap will fit tightly over the outside diameter of the filter.

they actually also work quite well for custom white balance too even in mixed lighting and are much more convenient than a grey card

Click to expand...

If it fits snugly without falling off on a 82mm slim filter, I'd rather get this than a expensive XS-Pro ... but I didn't quite understand the concept of this cap ... do you use this? how does it work?

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yeah its easty to use
with the cap on the lens flick it over to mf
point camera at scene you are going to shoot with AWB enabled
take a pic
set that pic as custom white balance pic
flick AF switch back to AF (annoying when you forget this part)
carry on shooting

Click to expand...

Sorry, I think I didn't ask the question correctly ... I am not talking about the WB ... what I wanted to know was how does the cap fit, because you said:
"see in the pic there is a seperate ring? that is supposed to screw into the filter thread and the cap is a snug pop on or off fit its snug enough that by not bothering with their supplied ring the cap will fit tightly over the outside diameter of the filter"

I am a bit confused, do I need to attach the separate ring in order to fit the cap snugly on to my 82mm slim filter?
I am not interested int the custom WB part as I already have a Rogue ExpoDisc and a WhiBal ... I am only interested in the cap for my 82mm slim filter.

Click to expand...

oh it fits because you just forget about the mounting ring it comes with and it snuggly fits over the filter itself
ie the inside diameter of the cap = the outside diameter of the filter

Click to expand...

OK, thanks.

dr croubie said:

You'd seriously hand over $6k of camera plus lens to a random guy on the street?

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At least check he don't look like sprinter body build type, or wear running shoes

If you don't mind going refurb, you can pick it up for $1036+tax during one of the 20% off Canon refurb sales. You have to be quick to catch it in stock, though.

neuroanatomist said:

Viggo said:

Does that mean I should turn it off if I never use zone and all 61?

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No need to turn it off, but if left on it's not doing anything for you...

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Thanks a lot! I was a bit surprised by this, lol. Oh well, the 1dx hardly ever misses anything for me anyway ;D

privatebydesign said:

vlad said:

I've been doing some food photography with the 100 macro lately, and the DOF limitations have gotten me thinking about TS-E's. What are people's thoughts on getting the 90 versus the 45 with a 2X telecoverter? Seems like the latter would be more versatile, but is there a big IQ tradeoff?

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Huge trade off, don't do it. The 90 is a very sharp lens, the 45 not so much, with the 2x convertor the 45 becomes practically useless.

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If the lens is less sharp than the camera, there's no point in using a TC, just crop it and you still have a better quality.

Nice, it does feel sketchy.....man oh man... I am gonna do some tests and watch what happens, any anomalies for leaving the Hand grip "ON"

IF you are looking for these and can't find them locally it looks like Amazon is another sourse

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-425298-13-Watt-PAR30L-Dimmable/dp/B0094BDAYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360781141&sr=8-1&keywords=425298

nebugeater said:

I have two of these Philips LED Daylight (5000K) bulbs in some very basic portable stands that I use to light my photo tent from each side. They are about 5 ft away on each side and light it more than I need for taking shots of things inside the cube. They work great and I thing they might do what you are trying to do with ease. They cost about $35 each for the bulb but they will last forever and I have not had one go out unlike incecent bulbs in the 5000K range.
The Home Depot I go to had them on the shelf and that is how I stumbled on trying one and then two.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203553307?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=led+daylight&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=203553307

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neuroanatomist said:

mrmarks said:

neuroanatomist said:

Form-fitting 580 modifiers (e.g. StoFen) do not fit on the 600 head. However, modifiers for the older 550EX will fit, albeit snugly.

Click to expand...

Stofen has released a new diffuser specifically designed for the 600EX.

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Yep, and I have one. It's still a pretty snug fit, tighter than the ones for my 430EX II's.

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I noticed this as well. Piece of 400-500 grit sand paper makes it much better. I de-burred the entire thing with a small triangle file then sanded it out a bit. Snug fit and does not require two people to remove anymore~

Hobby Shooter said:

rpt said:

tron said:

pedro said:

closed of course! 8)

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That way the camera is safe from ... the cat ;D

Also, you do not want your picture taken... by the cat ;D ;D

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Yep! I have my camera bag closed too. With two dogs and a cat in the house, I do not want them to even attempt competing with me!

I am the "Man" of the house and I have my wife's permission to say so!

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I wish my wife would let me say so...

Impressive pictures, I have a hard time getting the high ISO looking better than they do with my 5D3. I'm working on other settings and improving my skills so hopefully one day.

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You know, it was a real long shutter speed at 1/40 handheld and almost wide open. I really hope Canon stays at 22 MP with the 5Ds while the sensors and ISOs improve accordingly. Wish a next or overnext body will enable us to shoot ISO 51k equivalent to ISO 25k IQ today.

ewg963 said:

Ricku said:

In other words, Canon will soon have 3 dedicated cinema bodies in the market, but still no dedicated landscape / studio body?.. Yawn. :-\ This is just another sign that they shifting away from stills, and more towards video.

How about announcing the 14-24L, or at least letting us know if there is a big MP body coming this year or the next?

5D3X, 5D4 or whatever the name is. I need it naow!! ;D

Click to expand...

+1 on the 14-24L glass

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16-35 will do for me ;-) or would a 14-24 allow to mount an ND10 filter? Sigma has a bulb lens, maybe Nikon as well.