imagestoreindia said:

Why you not choose Canon Lens - EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens . best budget lens online.
get more specification or buy online from Canon official Store Online - http://www.imagestore.co.in/

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I wouldn't go for a zoom like that when it's better to learn from the primes forcing you to think. And why the 17-85 and an only lens when the 15-85 would be a completely superior option for just a little more.

Since this has inevitably moved on to the merits of filters as protection...

...the simple rule of thumb is that lens hoods improve image quality, protect against all the common types of damage lenses suffer, and under no circumstances will cause damage to a lens; and protection filters degrade image quality (even if imperceptibly with the best of filters), protect against only those situations where you as a human should also be wearing safety goggles; sometimes are necessary to complete environmental sealing; typically cost almost as much as replacing the front element; and will likely further damage the lens in common damage situations (especially by jamming the filter threads).

So, if you yourself should be wearing eye protection (such as if you're getting gravel kicked in your face at the rodeo, or if you're ringside and are getting splashed by bodily fluids); or if you're using one of a small number of L lenses in inclement conditions (including seaside); or if you're handing your camera to people (especially children) who can't keep their grubby fingers off the lens; then a protection filter is called for in addition to the lens hood.

The lens hood is always called for, except for situations where it's causing a physical obstruction.

Cheers,

b&

Marsu42 said:

AvTvM said:

And I will happily repeat, that the 6D is a poor piece of crap, a warmed-over 5D2, without any real advantage as far as sensoran d IQ is concerned.

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The 6d has less banding, a problem that seems to have plagued a lot of 5d2 shooters, and Nikon only has more dr in low iso. That doesn't make the 6d a more innovative camera - but without putting too much a fine point on it, I don't think you'll let facts stand in the way of your opinion anyway.

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+1 ... Apart from the AF, there is very little I don't like about the 6D. It is a great camera!

In fact I find it amazing that some people who have never ever shot with a FF come out denouncing the 6D citing DR while they are perfectly happy with their APS-C cameras. If you want to jump ship, please do so and do it right now what's the point in moaning?

Personally I've not found the 5d3 or the 6d's lack of DR limiting my shots (maybe its just me). More DR is most certainly welcome, but simply because a camera doesn't allow recovery of x number of stops doesn't make the Canon cameras 'crap' as suggested. ETTR and you'll be just fine.

Sneakers said:

kphoto99 said:

Keep in mind that any other non STM lens will be (very) loud while doing autofocus in video mode. This is if you are doing any video.

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Good point, but I'm disappointed by the performance of the autofocus and don't think I'll use it much.

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The more you read CR the more you will find out that Canon cripples its products to make sure they don't compete with more expensive ones. The video in the dSLR is not as good as the Cx00 line for the same reason. Some of that crippling is by software limiting what the hardware can do and not by hardware limitations.

I have the 135STM and I find it very sharp compare to the 18-55 3.5-5.6 IS and the 55-250 4-5.6 IS lenses that I have. My sharpest lens Tamron 17-50 2.8 XR Di II and the 135STM is very close to it.

I had a similar experience with one of the standard UV filters. I bought it on the recommendation of a friend.When I complained to him that I thought the images were a little soft, and maybe he had steered me wrong we got together to compare. What I discovered is that I paid around $30 for my filter and he had paid almost $100. Both Promaster UV filters. The salesman tried to sell me the better filter but did a really bad job of explaining why I needed it except it was easier to clean. I took the filter back to the store to return it and get a B+W. The store manager took the time to explain the real difference between the standard filter and the better filters including both the B+W and the Promaster better filter. It seems that most of the inexpensive filters from Hoya, Tiffen, Sunpak, Promaster, or others are only coated on one side of the glass or not coated at all. The higher end filters are coated both sides with multiple layers of coating that helps eliminate the ghosting which impacts the image sharpness. Anyway, the manager convinced me to trade for the Promaster HGX and save the extra $30 since it had the same level of coating etch as the B+W MRC. They said if I was unhappy, they would swap me for the B+W. So far, no soft images and I am as happy as my friend.

CarlTN said:

Thank you eyeland. I have no doubt the CPU needs a heatsink, but I think I read that the 1Dc's sensor had a heatsink. Either way, wherever the most heat originates, it will propagate, and accumulate...as you said. And you don't want the CPU or the sensor to overheat.

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I'm not doing video, but anyone interested should search in or ask in the Magic Lantern forum, the people there have lots of experience with video on different eos camera bodies and use firmware with modified bitrate, i.e. potentially generating more even more heat - and I vaguely remember problems with the 7d: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/

neuroanatomist said:

tpatana said:

Tried the Lowepro tool to estimate which bag I need. It told me I should get the Flipside 500 AW. Hmm...

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I've loaded the Flipside 400 AW with a gripped body, 430EX II, and either one big white zoom (70-200/2.8L IS II or 100-400L) and four black lenses (e.g. 24-105L, 16-35L II, TS-E 24L II, 100L Macro, 135L, etc.), or two big white zooms and three black lenses.

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I bought the Flipside 400 about six months ago based on your recommendation, I think it's a great solution especially since the gear is not accessible while you're wearing it, this is valuable where I live.

I have also a couple of Crumpler bags that I like alot. Then a couple of more Lowepro bags that I mainly use for storage at home. I have yet to match my wife in terms of number of bags though, which is a good argument whenever I bring home a new bag.

http://youtu.be/M6VmpTPetwY

feature film shot in Iran.

Thanks for all the feedback. The book "Speedliter's Handbook: Learning to Craft Light with Canon Speedlites" has been ordered and should be in my hot little hands next week

And I'll order a couple of cables, the 1m coiled and the 10m straight, simply for diversity. After reading about the ST-E2 unit, I'll hold off for the time being. The cables are cheaper and will probably give me the flexibility I need at the moment

digital paradise said:

If you want to go with cables
http://ocfgear.com

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After months of development and research at the massive canon R&D department we present to you, the professional consumer..... An AF-Assist beam that actually works. ;D ;D ;D





:|

Policar said:

I wouldn't take this so personally!

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Not taking it personally at all. Just got tore a bit to shreds for suggesting that a 5D3 would ever under any circumstances have the potential to exhibit moire. You could buy six 5D3's for the price of my work ENG camera, which has occasionally exhibited moire.

Thank god for the tools to fix it.

The problem with the land of milk and honey is curdling and bee's.

RLPhoto said:

The real question I want to ask...

Can you explain why the Insurance company didn't cover your equipment? This would be very useful to know.

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I'm from Canada, and I was in the US. It's professional gear and not covered under my home policy, which wouldn't matter, since I sold my house and had no official residence at the time. I had coverage for inside Canada only. I would have needed production insurance for the various countries I would have visited on the trip. Since I was only stopping in the US long enough to buy a boat, then rig it and leave, it didn't make sense to pay $3500 for the US. Took a chance and lost.

Thanks everyone.

As mentioned earlier you cannot stack two Canon 1.4x extenders. I have recently stacked the following: Canon 1DX + Canon 500mm F4L version I + Canon 2x II + Canon 1.4x II. This shot was at ISO 5000, 1/400, +2 EV at effective 1400mm on tripod. Full overcast about an hour from sunset. The camera showed F8 and 1000mm. Auto-focus did work with center point focus.

I'm adding the photo to this post. Not an award winning capture. I was just trying it out to see what it would do with branches, low light, etc. This is about a 60% crop into the photo.

Why an amount per month?? When you are shooting X amount per event, you need enough GB to safely cover that. I found that a 64GB card will cover a event for me as of know.

Hi again,

I checked to see what the extender I used at work was.

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=4505

It is a wireless USB extender and normally works up to 100 or so meters... I replaced the toy antennas with a pair of 28db gain dishes and have a rock-solid link to some instruments about a kilometer away. It works fine, but there is definitly delay. Even on a short link there is a noticeable delay over the straight USB cable.

rosy said:

if you are looking for a 'filmic' look, a problem with hd in general is that it's often too sharp and determined.
therefore always looking to use 'older' and softening lenses for film like imagery. preferably produced before the 70ties.

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Wow! I was sure I was only idiot who thought the same way))
I was working in small production and one director told me that the problem was not in lanses but in light (picture was toooooo sharp). We were arguing for an hour and decided to test some combinations. We'll do it.

although i like most of the canon lens range a lot, even the zooms which are great in their field, in general for a more filmic look the imagery is rather sharp most of the time. colors blend less than with exposure on film.

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Canon lens are good for no art movies, I think. Or you should know how to use aperture right. Or how to change aperture and shutter speed at the same time and without step-effect.

preferably anamorphic

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Yes! This is the only way to cinema.

and then you can be lucky in russia finding those kind of 'home' made obscure lenses with a nice drop in depth of field.

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I have two soviet lenses, Gelios 44m & Industar 61 L/Z and Meyer-Optik Görlitz Orestor 135 mm f/ 2.8 («Bokeh King»); will show you how it works on 5D Mark III.

afaik, over here (Swtzerland) you cannot send your DSLR to another than an official Canon Rep. Even though you take it to your brick and mortar shop where you bought it. They'll do that anyway due to guarantee reasons...

brad goda said:

I think more important to consider is what rig you are using for your set up... focus pulling... T adjust (...) yes any or most lenses will be good... but what kind of mechanics will your film making require. there will be many adaptations you will have to make to make EF lenses fit matte boxes and rigs...

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I understand this and I realize that my post was very vague.
To begin with, we're doing a very crude setup for the pilot (its just a 2-3 day shoot), I will mostly be doing landscape beauty-shots (big panoramas and star-timelapse), so I think we might do the first shoot without any real rig. Probably a nice tripod, a merlin glide and a simple slider. Maybe a very simple follow-focus, but this is not even certain. In future shoots, (if all goes well) we'd be going much more cinematic, eg. more narrative shots, more characters and much more focus pulling.
Maybe I should distinguish between questions that have to with optical qualities and questions pertaining to ergonomics and other non optical considerations.

brad goda said:

the EF and ZF lenses are good.. but NOT cinema lenses... focus racking and seamless T adjustments are made way different on Canon cinema and Zeiss CP.2

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I don't understand what you mean by this?

From what it looks like today, we might start off with one or two zooms and a few primes. I assume that eg. 24-70II+70-200 2.8II is a sturdy combo, but what if we want to go wider than that?
From an optical standpoint, are there any L-glass that you would NOT recommend using for 4K?

Tokina 16-28 f/2.8

Already discussed here on forums and elsewhere.

Thanks gentlemen for the advice.

Meanwhile my used 17-35 L has arrived and I'm shocked. The Tokina 11-16 2.8 blows this lens out of the water in any discipline. Sharpness over all, Sharpness of corners, felt stability and even with the accu drill sound the AF seems on par with the Canon USM.

So I know that it will be the Tokina to cover the lower end and I will invest in the Chinese second hand market for a used 70-200. That leaves the question between the 28-70 L and the Sigma 17-50 2.8 which has failed me once already in regards to build quality but which is small and light and is stabilized.

I am shooting a 5D3 since last August. And it was a big step up for me in low light, coming from a 30D. The 1Dx is definitely not my expenditure league. But If you do birding, although I am not into that, I guess the 1Dx surely has a stellar AF and is a lot more forgiving at higher ISOs relating to what I've heard so far. It has a 0.5 to 1 stop advantage in RAW over the 5D3 according to neuro. How many f-stops do you lose with a 1.4 converter and the 100-400? Anyway you'd have at least a 560mm on the long end. If I were you I'd go for the body...Because neither the 1Dx nor the 5D3 will see an upgrade within the next year. But, that's my 2 cents.

with zeiss and the canon 1.2L on your list its obvious budget is not a problem
but check out the canon 50 2.5 macro... it has a noisy slow non USM motor and a thin plastic manual focus ring BUT its a underdog performer... all my Japanese studio friends swear by this lens and I do to... check out this review.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=403&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=6&LensComp=287&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=2

ha! a fun look. and scary comparison.

Hey thanks for the comments, sorry I forgot to reply it gets lost in the vast amounts of posts on this site, the indoor group shot was just 2 580ex ii's and the outdoor shots were just natural light.