A few must have tests to make sure the camera is worthy of purchase...

#1, set the camera next to the oven with a frying pan and put an egg in it. Set the cameras Mode to scramble... Wait 2 minutes... See if the eggs is indeed scrambled. If it's over easy or poached, return immediately. Also you may want to test the coffee brewer function. That will be crucial.

#2, set the camera on a tripod facing a blank white wall. set the camera on AWB and think of the color yellow. fire a shot. If the picture is anything but yellow, return it as the mind control function obviously isn't working which will lead to other problems down the road.

#3, lastly, go by a busy street where cars are traveliing at a decent speed. Stand on the sidewalk but be near the road so the cars are whizzing past you. Set the camera on ai servo and high speed continous shooting. focus on a car 50 yards out coming towards you and rapid fire... If when zoomed in after reviewing the photos, you cannot see eyelashes on the driver in each consecutive frame, send it back because obviously the AF is faulty.

Now on a serious note, shoot pictures of the sky.... look for hot pixels, play with AF in varying areas and see how well it locks on... read the manual over and over and once more just for good measure. The menu system has had an overhaul so locating things may be in different areas and harder to find so take your time and understand it and all the nuances. Lastly look for any signs of hidden damage such as paint chips, scratches in the LCD's, etc... easy to get if they aren't careful with the camera and could lower your asking price.

paparadzi said:

I wonder if the roadshow was actually organized by Canon Malaysia, or by another reseller such as Fotokem.

Was the price better at the roadshow? Usually Malaysian will not pay in full and not getting the merchandise immediately, but rather buy high ticket items at a regular brick-and-mortar shops.

BTW, I am a Malaysian and live in Malaysia.

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It was organized by canon with the help of a dealer but it's not fotokem. The price is not better during the roadshow but they give an extra year of warranty at the same price I get outside. Well, I had to pay in full to get the extra warranty.

Ayelike said:

Or maybe it's trying to format it. When I put a new 32GB card in my camera for the first time it took a few seconds to format it before it came on. Your camera might detect the card, can't read it so try to format it. And obviously fails.

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Yep, that's what I'd go with as a reasonable theory. You're telling it something is there, even though it clearly isn't. There are many, many other places you can put the micro-SD adapter (in your pocket, in your bag, taped to the side of the camera) that won't screw up the operation of your $3500 camera; seems silly to trade a minor convenience for losing the start-up time

bhavikk said:

I'd stick with Canon as I know their system already.

Canon 5D Mark III
50 F1.2L
24-70 F2.8L II
600EX-RT
Gitzo GT2531 + Manfrotto 468MGRC2

I'd would not purchase the 16-35 F2.8 II again as I don't shoot super wide all the time, but it was very useful on my crop sensor at the time. I'd start with the above then either get some studio lights or 70-200 F2.8L II.

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I slowly getting into landscape and this lens got used most with my 5D III.

When I worked in Japan (at a different company) there was a Canon factory near us on the Tokyo periphery. I remember meeting a foreigner who worked at the factory and having a nice chat on the train. Unusual because Japan hires few outsiders.


Maybe I should try to look him up and ask about the 1DX.

risc32 said:

300mm 2.8 with that other kit as walk around. man, you are awesome.

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And as strong as Attila the Hun...sir.

PW

neuroanatomist said:

Mike Ca said:

I have a neutral density filter from ProMaster. The first time I put it on a lens, the EF 24-70 f/2.8, was at a beach on a day that was windy and cold. After using it for an hour or so, I could not get it off the lens. When I got back home, I tried to get it off again with no luck. The following day I decided to take it to the store where I had bought both the filter and lens. Before I left, I tried to remove the filter again, and it came off easily.

I think it was a temperature effect. The lens/filter had been room temperature when I put the filter on. The lens/filter cooled down at the beach and the metal on lens must have contracted more than the metal on the filter.

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One reason why I prefer B+W over Hoya (rebranded or not) is that a filter is more than just glass. B+W uses brass for the mounting rings, others use aluminum. Brass has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion than aluminum, meaning less chance of the threads binding.

Even so, a set of filter wrenches (~$5) is a good idea.

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+1! That's why all my filters are Heliopan! Excellent German glass with solid brass rings! If you are doing any kind of work where filters come on and off (UV + Polarizer, UV + ND, UV + Softar...) you will instantly appreciate brass rings and never use anything else again!

djwave said:

Is imposible to select [A+] intelligent scene, in this mode continues displaying P in display

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Definitely a problem. You should have it repaired!

Sony said:

Im very new with digital SRL cameras as well as digital photography. I got a 5dMKiii 15 days ago and spent 10 days just for carefully learning the manual and praticing the camera. There is no problem with me, so I thinhk 99% problems come from the user not the camera itself. My first officially shots with the 5DMKiii were at Golden Gate Bridge's 75th Anniversary event last Sunday.

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Yes good job mate but what does your story have to do with topic starter's problem? You suggest that being unable to go to A+ intel.scene mode is a user error?

SirPhil said:

Why hasn't anyone re-engineered the BG-E6 (an after mark version) to include a joystick?

5D MKII, 5D Classic

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The joystick on the BG-E11 definitely delivers joy, mainly in the form of being able to navigate those 61 focus points quickly & easily in portrait mode. But as the technically adept Dr Neuro has pointed out it's a very unlikely hack for the BG-E6.

You've got both other 5D bodies. Why not round it up to an enviable "Sir Phil's Canon EOS 5D - The Complete Collection" in D major, inevitably an Ode to Joy...(stick).

PW

Here's my wish list: Full frame (or larger!) sensor with at least 36 megapixels. 3.5 x 3.5 ultra high resolution display for live view. Direct EOS lens support for my L and ZE glass. Make in the form factor of a Leica M9 or even better, a Ricoh GXR. I shoot a 5D2 and an M9 and love each for what they do best. 5D2 for sports and macro and the M9 for everything else. Of course, I'd love to see an M10 with 36+ megapixels, high resolution live view and M mount support. But I'm probably not in the Canon target audience - I have an M Monochrom on order and will travel from SoCal to Cologne for Photokina in September just for fun! Oh yes, I have a Ricoh GXR with the A11 M mount adapter. Pretty cool deal with my M glass. I use it all time.

i didn't have enough cash to buy the kit at the time but i want the 24-105 lens badly. if anyone is buying a mark 3 and wants to buy the body and the lens, then i will gladly pay for the lens .

olivander said:

Yeah I average everything, I think she needs replacing sometimes she gets confused whether the diffuser is in or out (it's definitely out, on the floor in some dirty club in Sydney somewhere).

I found manual worked really well I dont mind stopping up and down https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=474250909257265&set=a.474245409257815.128674.465145816834441&type=1

I'll probably buy a 430, I just punch hard light at everything and do everything else in post, softboxes are a waste of time for me. And god after the trashing this flash has taken, I think I'll buy something cheaper next time. I'm a club/festival shooter, unless someone can give me a great reason to try anything else I'll probably go this way.

I'm not to sure of the model differences (except the 600 has radio) and the 580 has more options, but I pretty much just use ETTL, or manual.

Let me know if there's anything else I should try before adding her to my other wasted equipment, there seems to of been a lot of that lately for me. I should start shooting safer stuff... (Won't happen)

The disadvantage of live event is that I'm insane with where I go...

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the yongnuo 565 are basicaly a much cheaper copy of the 580 only main difference is the lack of HSS so if you dont use HSS much it might be a pretty good option at $150 not such an issue if it gets trashed and if you dont even need ettl the 560 from yongnuo are only $70 almost disposable!

illogict said:

dlleno said:

right, good catch. So its only useful for out-of-box jpeg with no post, works only for lenses that the mfg is motivated to include, can't be updated without a firmware flash, and the feature has the potential to damage the final result. I suspect this is a marketing job to convince buyers that it is good, but as a practical matter it would only benefit those who use the DSLR as a point-and-shoot and are more likely to stick with the kit lens -- and in these situations the user is less likely to even know or detect the benefit and hard pressed to know if it is working well or not!

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I do tend to disagree here. I would love my current body to have in-camera CA correction. Why you ask? I don't want to do anything in post but try to get it right when opening the shutter. I'm only a beginner, but I try to learn, and I tend to think that it may be harder but is more rewarding, even though I know that a little bit of post could do wonders.

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sure I didn't mean to say it has no use at all I meant to call out that its broadest appeal is likely to occur under situations where it matters least and is most difficult to verify -- meaning a broad set of beginners would not care about the difference, nor would they know whether or not it is working. But you represent a notable exception to that glittering generalization -- you are a discriminating beginner who wants to submit to the discipline of creating good jpgs with no post processing. nice approach! honestly that use case did not occur to me because when I transitioned from film to digital I never did go "without post" -- but my film days brought just the discipline you are submitting yourself to. I sent many a roll of K64 to 925 Page Mill Road, Palo Alto CA.

this is not to say one can't learn digital photography without first shooting jpg with no post. but it will definately help you learn, and allow you to more fully appreciate the flexibility of things like Lightroom when you are ready.

My sense, given your chartered course, is that you will soon (6 months) want to move to raw shooting and transition from "shooting for jpg" to "shooting for lightroom" or whatever PP you choose to use.

It will be out in November 2012 2014

With an LCD viewfinder overlay its going to be next ot impossible for the focus points to light up like on the 60D. Any possible solution will likely be a full on red backlight which if that is turned on you probobly wont be able to see what you're shooting in low light..so either the focus point or the subject.

But I agree that complaints of any type are important..complaining here..not so. Better to whine to Canon about the issues than to us that already know about the problems. There are also a GREAT number of good posts in here to pick up tips and tricks. I've been over the manual several times now...YES I did actually read it 3 times...and still never picked up on the fact that you can program the SET button on the back so when you hold it in you can scroll the top wheel to change ISO settings...but sure enough it's in the manual. There are so many useful configurations, most of which no one has reported...or are keeping it to themselves.

sandymandy said:

Just rent urself a 7D for a day and u should already be able to check out the image quality regarding higher ISO. Or just buy urself a 1100D since it uses the same sensor as the 7D. Image quality is the same too. Not much money wasted in case u dont like it.

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I hate renting. in my mind its like throwing away money.

I don't think I'm going to want the crappy AF of a rebel... But thanks for the suggestion tho!

But I have someone who wants to trade my 5d2 for their 7d along with $400 cash.

Plus, as far as wedding work goes, I have the 24 1.4. Sometimes it is a bit too wide on my 5d3, but it would be a 38 on the 7d, which is perfect for some circumstances.

or i could just sell everything and get a d800*. It almost has the reach of a 7d, and the full frame of the 5d3.







*just kidding

i have and love both lenses.. while you gain an extra stop of shutter speed and some truly AMAZINGGG bokeh with the 135L it needs to be noted that it actually gets negated because if/when you're hand holding it then you need to be at or above 1/135s, regardless of whether the subject is static or not.. whereas with the 100L, the 4 stops IS helps shoot at lower shutter speeds and more importantly lower ISOs for higher image quality when able to..

honestly you can't go wrong with either.. both have great image quality and are great bang for their buck.. I prefer the 135L for its outstanding bokeh, sharpness, color and contrast but i do leave it and take the 100L when i'm going to be shooting low light portraits etc without much motion..

the 100L is also awesome for macro.. you mentioned you would like that capability and that is specifically what I keep mine for, other than the flexibility for low light and portraits with MFD issues.. if you're only going to get one, the 100L might be a better choice.. ?

$3071 and im not making this number up

"
EF 24-70 f/2.8L II Availability
The lens will be available in July from a few people.
"
Ah I first read this as "for a few people", thinking - I wonder who those three lucky people are?!

Thanks!

Does anyone have experience with real world results? Does it really improve the video or does it maybe even create problems?

....NOOOOOT

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Halfrack said:

After watching some interesting bits in a local camera store - sales guy with an xacto knife near the exposed sensor - taking my sensor loop is a good start. Also taking a few shots of a blue sky at f22 to see if anything else is impacting things. Burst mode shots, AI Servo shots.

Any publicly available 'stolen gear' list I can check? A box is a sure sign of a proper sale - but last thing I want to do is pick up a stolen one.

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You can usually tell a stolen camera, they do not give you a address and do not have the original box, manuals, receipts etc, just what they grabbed out of someone's car or residence.

I'd recommend buying a refurb with warranty, or a new one while the Canon discount is going. $1400 for refurbs using the Canon CLP when they have them.

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I was robbed at gun point in my home a year ago jan, and they took everything. They tried to sell my gear to another photographer. That other photographer found my biz card in the bag along with a client contract contract so he called me up and I told him what had happened. He suspected it was stolen because the camera was dirty. If someone is selling a high end camera, they are going to clean it up really nice. If it looks dirty, that should be a red flag. Also, of course, if you see a biz card in something someone is trying to sell you, MAJOR red flag!!

FYI thanks to this honest, awesome photographer, who is now my friend, the a-holes who did this to me are rotting in jail. Hopefully for a long, long time.

And yes, I got (almost) all my stuff back.

awinphoto said:

Biffbim said:

wickidwombat said:

if all you want is AF assist these bad boys do it nice and cheap
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YONGNUO-Speedlite-Transmitter-ST-E2-Canon-580EXII-F178-/400188007358?pt=AU_Flashes&hash=item5d2d1063be

they through out a grid beam, works pretty well, tons lighter than actually having a flash on the camera especially if you dont want to actually set the flash off, and more compact too

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I have one of these. Appears not to be compatible with 5D3.

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It doesn't work with the 5d3 or are did you hear that it doesn't? I have a 5d3 and was about to buy one of these since it doesn't have a triggering system like the 7d. If you know for sure that it doesn't, that would save me $100.

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i'll test it out tonight on the mk3 and get back to you

ScottyP said:

I have heard Bigfoot shoots a Canon 43 lens. Even rarer...

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Naaawwww, Bigfoot shoots a Glock 19

I assume it's the auto brightness feature getting confused, like mentioned above. It's happened to me with all of my EOS cameras at some point or another (450D, 7D, 5D III). It's a terrible habit to judge exposure based on the brightness of the screen, so if it bothers you that much, set the brightness to max manually or take care not to cover the light sensor on the back of the camera (I have quickly determined that this is the small circle near the bottom left of the LCD display by shining a torch on it then entering image playback).