Posts

el bouv · Dec 10, 2012

What exactly was Firmware 1.1.1 supposed to solve?

I have picked up two 1DX bodies on Friday 8 December, numbers 053011002582 and 63012000973.

Upgraded both to Firmware 1.1.1

Went out to do BIF early on Saturday morning using a 400 2.8 Series II lens with a Series III 1.4 extender.
Body 053011002582 freezes solid and gives Error 80, have to remove battery to recover.

Later in the day body 63012000973 freezes solid when used with the 85mm 1.2 lens. Recovers when switched off, occasionally gives extreme overexposure with the 85 mm 1.2.

Let’s face it, on those occasions that the AF actually works, it is an amazing camera! Sharp BIF captures are reduced to merely selecting the proper focus option, pointing in the general direction of the bird and pressing the shutter button. High ISO allows high speeds that takes care of movement, a real pleasure to shoot, but only if it works.

I am not part of a Beta testing program, and I buy my own gear privately, so it is totally unacceptable to get reduced to a spectator with Canon gear in excess of 17000 dollars when the camera fails.

Dec 9, 2012

The Canon EF 15-23 2.0L

JonB8305 · Dec 9, 2012

Viggo said:
I just bought myself the Elinchrom Quadra Ranger RX with A-head (short flash duration to freeze action) As a modifier went with the Deep Octa 70cm, which has two diffusers and a deflector, can be used with lots of options.

It has a built in Skyport radio receiver and with the optional (must have) Transmitter, you can control power from the camera, which to me is ESSENTIAL, turn it off, set the exposure for background, flick it on and adjust power of the flash with two hardware buttons, up/down. Absolutely awesome.

I've done the strobist-way for years, and it is very fiddely, lacking in power and quality of light and I HATE umbrella-boxes that break for nothing. I still use Photiix Odin triggered speedlites for some things, and also as an additonal light to the Quadra, as I currently have only the one head.

You can save yourself some money by getting the Quadra right away, instead of triggers, two 580's (which you need outside) battery packs, clamps and other mounts, a few soft boxes (as they usually break).

The Quadras are 2 2/3 stops more powerful in a softbox than the 580 ex. I have shot with the Octa at 1m from me at F22 and had enough power, the backrgound, which was a white winter sun , mid day, looked like the late evening!

Add fantastic built, incredibly consistent colortemp and light-output, ready-beep, model-light and you have a seriously great set up where the lamp is actually smaller and lighter than a normal speedlite and at 400Ws!

+1 you get portability and power with this set up.

You could also do PCB Einsteins with vagabond mini lithium's at a decent price.

Dec 9, 2012

i end up buying another 50mm

canon 50 1.4 at amazon for $299

Portrait_Moments_Photogra said:
dr croubie said:

gmrza said:

With a lens like that, I could see a lot of happy owners of the current 50 f/1.4 being prepared to buy a new lens.

Click to expand...

I've already got the EF 50/1.8, Takumars 50/1.4 & 55/1.8 & 55/2.0, FL 55/1.2, Zeiss 50/4.0 (x3), OM 50/3.5 macro, and just recently a Schneider Retina 50/2.8 (in the post).

And with all of them, even I'd be interested in an EF 50/1.4 IS. You can never have too many fifties...

Click to expand...

so what would be your fave 50mm Croubie -

i just sold my sigma 50, coming from a 50L and the 50 1.8
i missed my 50's and I'm looking into buying another 50mm again

Dec 9, 2012

Frame in the general area, press the focus square selection button (focus squares are bright and easy to see), move the desired focus square over the point you want to focus, press the shutter button halfway and the bright focus squares dissapear and you now achieve focus and metering - take picture.

I have only tried this in manual with flash attached and turned on.

Hope this works for others that were having the same problem as me. I just could not find my selected focus square (usually center spot) as they were very dim and only remained on for a split second, lock focus and then shoot. I hope Canon will give us a fix for this in the April firmware update. I never had this problem with my 7D.

Let me know if anyone else has any other ideas. Thanks

R1-7D · Dec 9, 2012

Calgary Alberta, Canada skyline

IMG_2848 by HadrianRobinson, on Flickr

IMG_7660 by HadrianRobinson, on Flickr

IMG_7543 by HadrianRobinson, on Flickr

IMG_2512 by HadrianRobinson, on Flickr

RustyTheGeek · Dec 9, 2012

LOL! Funny, me too. That was just the first Nazareth concert I was able to attend since I lived in a fairly rural area back then.

Cgdillan · Dec 9, 2012

Nice job! for your first video, this is very good, and very interesting. Well done!

skitron · Dec 9, 2012

Area256 said:
Area256 said:

skitron said:

Area256 said:

...I will have a 60D and 6D tomorrow for some rough analysis.

Click to expand...

Let me know what you think of the way 6D renders colors and lighting dynamics. Now that I've moved on from testing to actual pictures, I am not liking what I am seeing in this respect. I'm shooting RAW and the the 6D files have a very different character than do 5D2 files imo, and not in a good way.

Click to expand...

I processed a few shoots of the same scene with same settings (ISO 100)/lens with the 60D and 6D, then looked at the RAWs in CPP. Both were basically identical in terms of color and DR (although CPP was applying the same tone curve so that should be expected). I don't think there was a major difference between the 60D and the 5D2. So I'm not sure what's happening in your case.

I also tried pushing the shadows in both, and didn't notice any real difference between the 60D and 6D. A tad better in the 6D, but nothing to write home about. The area the 6D really seems to shine is high ISO, where it clearly dominates the 60D. But again, color looks the same on both.

Click to expand...

I just tried Capture One. Images look almost exactly the same as CPP. And I got very impressive shadow detail recovery on the 6D in Capture One. Sadly I think your camera must be a bad copy.

Mine very well could have been a dud but I was thinking I'd like the improved video of 5D3 anyway so just went ahead and did it. I'm sure I'll like the 'even better' AF though the 6D AF was fine in my book.

Yes, the Capture One v7 shadow recovery tools are pretty amazing.

Dec 9, 2012

Hey guys, just saw this thread again and it's responses...

The issues that I have noticed with 550's and the 5D mark III are just when one flash is on the camera, with or without a Stofen diffuser. The camera will not give the right exposure, mostly underexposing. Same flash on the 5D mark II and no problem at all.

When using both the 550's with one on the camera as master, and one being triggered off camera to the side as the slave there are no issues at all and it works as expected with the 5D mark III.

digital paradise · Dec 9, 2012

Using the ST-E3-RT is wonderful. Before going Canon RT I had a transmitter mounted to my Sekonic L-358 and fired my flashes via a receiver on the camera. That all changed with the Canon transmitter.

I now use Auto Reset Cordless Flash mode on my L-358. Carrying around the Transmitter was a pain when I needed two hands. I cut a spare mini stand (the one that comes with a flash) down to size and attached a spare Black Rapid connector. It now hangs from my belt or belt loop and I make all the adjustments at location. When done I just pop the transmitter on the camera.

This is my second mod. It was hard to lock the foot on the generic mini stand and I did not want to wreck the rubber seal. I cut up the foot that came with the flash and ordered a new one from Canon.

bjd · Dec 9, 2012

sdsr said:
As others have explained, the phenomenon you're experiencing is unavoidable much of the time. But if you don't already shoot RAW and use software to adjust your photos, you may be in for a pleasant surprise; in Lightroom 4 (I used to think DxO was best at this of the various products I've tried, but LR4 seems even better - which isn't to say there isn't software out there that's even better) you can reduce the exposure of the highlights without darkening the rest and, depending on the RAW file (I have no experience with your camera), may be able to restore much or even all of the missing color in the sky - and, in the process, you'll restore definition to the twigs, pine-needles etc. on the edges of the trees. I'm often amazed by the details LR4 manages to conjure up.

Yep LR4 does pretty well in getting what is there out, but if there is no detail in the RAW then you are screwed.
I bracket if not certain, I did it to have the potential of doing HDR, but have given up on that now.
As soon as I can afford them I'll be getting some grad NDs.

Cheers Brian

Dec 9, 2012

lol · Dec 9, 2012

A bit late here, but I'm another owner of the 120-300 OS current version, not the S/A/C generation one, if that's even out yet?

Anyway, is it fast at AF? No. It's mediocre. Wouldn't count on BIF shots if they're heading quickly towards or away from you, but side pans wouldn't be a problem.
Is it sharp wide open? No. I couldn't quantify it, but it is not bad, but not critically sharp. It noticeably improves when you stop it down a bit. This also applies with the sigma teleconverters attached. Stop down a little from wide open and it sharpens up. More than usable wide open, but it isn't the best.

I have previously owned the EF 300/2.8 non-IS. I would rate the AF speed and sharpness as about equal. The Canon had much worse vignetting though.

Note I primarily got the Sigma to work with teleconverters as I needed to go beyond the reach of the 100-400L. In that sense it makes a great complement.

I got my Sigma about a year ago, and prices have dropped about 20% over that time especially since they announced the new version. Right now I think it is a bargain, a great lens for the money as anything else like it is significantly more expensive. The successor model is rumoured to be the same optical formula, with improvements to build quality. Take that for what its worth.

verysimplejason · Dec 9, 2012

If you need superior AF, 5D3 will do it. 6D if you don't need the extra superior AF performance. For studio, street and landscape, definitely, 6D. Macro, it depends on what you are shooting. If sports 5D3 or 1DX. For bird shots, you might want to wait for 7D2.

Dec 9, 2012

Dylan777 said:
You will not get 1yr Canon warranty. Canon will ask for original receipt from authorized dealer(s) ONLY

hahaha sounds like someone is butthurt after paying $3500 for a 5d3. As the poster above me has said, it makes no difference where you buy from, purchase away! If there had been a 5D3 for $2500 9 months ago then I probably wouldn't have gone Nikon.

killswitch · Dec 9, 2012

msmith0807 said:
AudioGlenn said:

I'm in a similar predicament. coming from the 10-22 on a crop, I really liked 10mm. My main concern isn't the extra stop of light as I will probably be shooting at f/5.6 to f/8 anyway. I've read that in UWA lenses, 1 mm makes a big difference. Is the difference between 16mm and 17mm significant?

Click to expand...

Canon has a decent lens comparison tool so you can see the difference in focal lengths. Give it a try, hope it helps. http://canonlenses.ca/Get-a-wider-perspective

I just recently went through the same decision process as well. Bought a 5d3 about a week ago and was trying to decide on what UWA to get to replace my 10-22. Decided on the 16-35 f2.8 II. So far I couldn't be happier with my choice.

OMG, this is awesome. I am facing the same dilemma as AudioGlenn, this comparison tool is what I have had been looking for to confirm the 1mm difference between 17-40 and the 16-35!!! Thank you so much for sharing!!!

captainkanji · Dec 8, 2012

I had to use ISO 4000-5000 at a recent Sci-Fi convention. Flash was discouraged and I had to use the 70-200 f/4 for the reach. Took a bit of post, but I got a couple good shots. AF didn't really give my any trouble, just lack of shutter speed. Next year, I'll be better prepared and try to get a better spot so I can use my tripod/monopod.

1/50, f/4, ISO 4000, 154mm

tron · Dec 8, 2012

Rienzphotoz said:
tron said:

A chinese wireless adaptor costs a few dollars. I cannot imagine that the solo photographer will be able to change 6D's settings and shoot with his camera at the same time anyway. So a remote shutter release is usually enough. Plus, I do not think that composition can be changed remotely by the camera itself! ;D

Click to expand...

Just like a 800mm lens is sued for certain purposes and not for wide angle compositions, the WiFi feature too has certain uses and changing composition is not one of them. ;D
You can get a Chinese motorcycle for $400, so why do people spend a lot more for branded motorcycles? ... every product has a customer base, those who can afford will buy the branded stuff and those who are on a budget will buy the cheaper options ... different strokes for different folks.

A 5DMkII or a 5DMkIII either with a remote release are not exactly cheaper options :

Artifex · Dec 8, 2012

I personally always shoot with manual focus; I mostly use Samyang 35mm f/1.4, Samyang 14mm f/2.8, SMC Pentax-M 50mm f/1.7 and SMC Pentax-M f/4 Macro. These are all great lens at a great price. For all of them except the 14mm, I use the live view and zoom inside the picture to fine focus; it is easy and pretty quick and mostly, it is the best way to nail perfect focus every time, especially at a wide aperture. However, it can cause problem when shooting fast action, but it is perfect for landscape, portrait, etc. With the 14mm, for anything farther than 2m, I use hyperfocal, and I use live view for near subjects. The live view is by far the best way to do your manual focus in my opinion, but if you are using UWA, hyperfocal are really fine.
If you want to calculate the hyperfocal of your lens, I recommend this site:
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Dec 8, 2012

while newer canons may accept up to 250v keep in mind that some flash have 350v or even more. up to 600v i have seen.

Dec 8, 2012

All Canon TV lens had a teleconverters!!!!!!!!

RustyTheGeek · Dec 8, 2012

I think the 40D is one of the best crop cameras Canon has made. I've sold and repurchased several of them as friends and family wanted a good DSLR without spending a lot of $$. I finally replaced my last 40D with a 60D (same sensor as the 7D). Meh. 60D is fine, faster fps, etc but I'd take another 40D in a heartbeat. I also agree, stay away from the 50D. Increased pixel density was a mistake.

My suggestion - UPGRADE GLASS with good EF or L lenses. KEEP 40D unless you need better focusing.