johnsonstudios said:

Wondering if there is any chance Canon will make a firmware update for the 1D IV so they can use the group function with the new 600EX flashes?

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Canon has an interest in phasing out aps-h so that they can sell more expensive tele lenses for people who aren't satisfied a crop sensor. For this reason alone Canon imho won't add *any* firmware features, and they aren't in the habit of doing so anyway - they only do it when pressed by the market (5d2 video, 7d2 auto-iso, 5d3/1dx f8).

Bad news for you: esp. the group function is the "premium" feature only available on the newest 1dx/5d3 bodies, since older bodies like 5d2 without rt ui are compatible with the 600rt even if Canon tries to say otherwise (hss speed) - why would Canon backport this? And they didn't to paid firmware updates yet.

http://michaelhodgesfiction.com/

These days I find these Green Bee Eaters in plenty.

The Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis) (sometimes Little Green Bee-eater) is a near passerine bird in the bee-eater family. It is resident but prone to seasonal movements and is found widely distributed across sub-Saharan Africa from Senegal and The Gambia to Ethiopia, the Nile valley, western Arabia and Asia through India to Vietnam.[2] They are mainly insect eaters and they are found in grassland, thin scrub and forest often quite far from water. Several regional plumage variations are known and several subspecies have been named.

SwissBear said:

i heard that tulip-shaped lenshoods start to soar if spinned with 1000rpm or more.

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I think I have to test that

I do about 30 weddings a year for about 10 years now. My suggestion is to get 2 580's or the new 600's...Use one to trigger the other if needed....You could get one of the big flashes and add a 430 too, but the big flashes give you master/slave but the 430 doesn't give master...But having two isn't bad since if one breaks you have a backup.....You will need 1 flash on your camera for anything that is in a darker reception room or at night, especially for people..You could also use both flashes in these scenarios as well.

Natural light is only going to get you so far during a wedding day...And with all the quicky portraits and dances during a reception you will also need the focus assist that the flash will give you depending on how dark it is. If it's dark the camera may have trouble focusing depending on how dark and what lens. You can easily trigger the 2nd flash if needed for off camera stuff.

I also use the pocket wizards with ettl and they are great but not when its darker. You lose the focus assist unless you have a speedlight on the camera.

Hi all,

I'm currently in the process of building up my collection of lenses and am need of some advice.

I'm look for something in the telephoto zoom range, most likely a 70-200, and I've been looking at the offerings from both Tamron and Sigma. Does anybody have any experiences with either of the lenses? What about the comparison between them and their Canon counterparts?

Any opinions/advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

I took some photos of a friend driving his monster truck last summer (2011), and ended up having to use the 35mmL and cropping the images severely. Even wide open and severely cropped, I can print large prints.
f/1.4



f/2.8



Before cropping:

CharlieB said:

True differences of the one measly stop - 100/2 vs 100/2.8 macro... I have used, and LOVE the 100/2, but I got the 100/2.8 macro..... you'll never notice the one stop difference in DOF or bokeh.

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Maybe you don't, maybe the OP won't. I certainly notice the difference in DoF between f/2.8 and f/2 at 85mm and 135mm.

I think a TS-E would be a great choice. Which one would depend on how much room you have, if you can back up to where 24mm is wide enough, I'd choose that one. The TS-E 24 is nearly distortion-free. Up on the ladder, you could use a little downward shift to keep the window lines straight.

2012 Alaska Cup by alabang, on Flickr

the canon xf300 actually has a feature built-in to recover card issues. check that out. you might loss 10 second of the footage

I have read comments from some users that turning off AFMA of my 5D MK III will let the TC work. I'm not going to even consider that.

That's almost certainly the reason. It will work on any APS-C camera, except for the 10D (which predates the EF-S mount).

Not the first time I've seen Vegas recommended, I may have to try it out. I'm interested in rendering timelapses in HD in addition to video editing, I'm not happy with what I get from my older version of Pinnacle Studio. I've read that the newest version of Pinnacle Studio is quite a disappointment.

nightbreath said:

Sorry for the off-topic. I just wanted to ask a question.

Everyone says that there are good or bad copies of lenses. Isn't misfocusing on specific distances fixable by Canon?

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I have done this and i have sent in my camera bodies and lenses calibrating them all. Its expensive as H just to ship because of insurance and weight. One thing i will say is camera sensors are also part of the problem many times. Some camera sensors aren't perfectly aligned on the body so it affects lenses that are mounted. Some lenses don't cause trouble on a body that doesn't have a properly aligned sensor with it but i'd say the big glass isn't as forgiving.

Yes sir, i have used the 70-200 i believe it was with a 12 and a 25 on it and it worked fine. The only thing i didn't like is being steady with a heavy long lens. It does render flowers really well with a tripod or monopod too. I used a spider holster setup but attached the 2 hooks on a think tank belt on that belt i also have a bag hanging behind me. In the bag i kept my fisheye lens, color checker passport and cases of unused recharged batteries to change out. The beauty of the 40 is its small even with an extension tube and that will be in the bag instead of my fisheye lens. I sold that lens. I don't want a macro lens or at least commit to paying the money for one.

tron said:

insanitybeard said:

tron said:

bakker said:

if you do a lot of landscape/wide-angle then I wouldn't go for primes. The comfort of being able to zoom beats shallower DOF.

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The zoom cannot beat the quality at the edges though. Zoom lenses are worse.

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Having the said that, in the case of some of the older primes like the 28 1.8 and 20 2.8 the corner performance isn't really any better (and in some cases worse) than the zooms. I considered getting the 28 1.8 as a fast standard prime for a crop camera but was put off for that reason.

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In an attempt to compare apples to apples I do not think that 28 1.8 is a good example. I mean the comparison must be between L lenses and L zooms or non-L lenses and non-L zooms

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Very true..... mind you, the non-L full frame zooms are getting a bit thin on the ground these days!

neuroanatomist said:

NormanBates said:

Canon's DPP is a joy to use, simple and effective. Nikon's ViewNX is a nightmare that takes ages to update the metadata on an image and crashes more often than any other piece of commercial software I've ever used.

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IMO, DPP is a joy to use in much the same way that a visit to the dentist for a root canal is a pleasant experience.

DPP's UI reminds me of WordStar (I know, I'm dating myself here). If ViewNX is worse, that's pretty bad.

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OK, DPP is not "a joy to use", but it's moderately fast, and it works. ViewNX can't say any of those. Real nightmare stuff.

njwhitworth said:

Great actions shots - what body/lens and AF setup did you use?

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Hi njwhitworth,

Thanks for looking and for taking the time to post a comment.
These were shot with a canon 300mm f/2.8IS mounted on a canon 1DMKIII

This should really depend on your budget and mid term planning and if you want/insist on using a second camera as a backup.

If your budget allows purchasing a 1D-X, then I would definitely recommend that one, because currently it is the best you can get. If on the other hand your current budget will be strained too much by such a purchase, you should go for the 5D Mark III. It is really good, although not the same as a 1D-X.

I expect you will find yourself wanting to upgrade to a 1D-X as soon as you end up with the 5D Mark III and may eventually end up with purchasing one in addition to the 5D Mark III. In this case you end up with a great 1st/2nd camera combination. I have this combination, but I find myself using the 1D-X much more often than the 5D Mark III (about a 10:1 ratio). The only thing better would be purchasing two 1D-X, but that's a lot of money for a backup.

I love my ipad 3 for showing off my good shots - absolutely fantastic color, contrast, and detail! Barring that, my HP 27" 2560x1440 display is also nice

crazy that they're just about the same resolution...

Thanks for the offer but the instruction sheet that came with it has a fairly decent description of aligning the mirror, I checked and it was properly aligned to start with so that side of things seems OK.

The focuser doesn't look like it would be easy to modify, the various parts of the mechanism run pretty much along the full length of the tube. But thanks for the hint on the eyepiece projection adapter, I found a local supplier so just shot them off an e-mail to see if they think it will solve it and if it's OK to return if not.

Early DSLR's were susceptable to high voltage at the triggering of a flash. Canon redesigned the flash circuits so 250 volts is not a concern, but I'd stay away from flashes that produce 400v or higher.
here is a popular list http://dpanswers.com/roztr/volt_finder.php

Old flash units can be had for $5, so just pick a low voltage one, imho.

I do not have experience on version 1. Only what I read in the internet but that you can find it too. However, I do have version 2 and I love it. I believe that it is one of the lenses that are worth their money. I wouldn't risk with version 1 anyway.

PackLight said:

at just a bit less than twice the weight of the f/4 it will keep your arm in shape lifting it.

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Interesting way to put it ;D