ok, nobody knows.

Thanks a lot Rav

Andreas

mine makes noise while zooming too.

EvillEmperor said:

The more I have been shooting sports, the more I see that portrait shots make better ones than landscape. Can anyone give me advice on how to shoot (interesting) landscape shots for sports?

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Depends on the sport, doesn't it? For example, the one below would have been pretty odd in portrait. On the other hand, when I am shooting a group game, and focusing on the activity (like a bunch of players vying for the ball) landscape is better. When I am looking at an individual player dribble for example, I choose portrait.

IMO, you can capture the atmosphere of a team game better with landscape in many cases. I am also interested to hear what the pros and more experienced amateurs have to say.

ChilledXpress said:

MotoGP 2012 Qualifying - Laguna Seca, California by David KM, on Flickr

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TrumpetPower! said:

bleephotography said:

Thanks for the advice, but I tried all of that in ample light with live view (as Neuro suggested) with varying settings and it still didn't improve.

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Then sending it back was the right decision. Here's hoping the next one delivers!

b&

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Well, I just got my third copy of the 24-70 II in and preliminary report is that it is slightly sharper than the prior two out of box, and quite sharp after default sharpening in Lightroom (on a Retina display). This is before AFMA. I am about 80% satisfied, so here's hoping AFMA improves it by +20% for +100% satisfaction ;D

On a side note, it seems to be sharpest at f/2.8 and doesn't improve much, if at all, stopping down all the way to f/8, whence it slowly seems to decline.

Hey..this is a Canon Website....I am not taking this nonsense.
Now the thread has no content whatsoever! ;D

I use the 24-105L as the "standard zoom" on my 40D and it balances perfectly. Feels right at home.

The 6D is extremely close to the 40D in weight & dimensions (which is why I'm considering one), so I think you'll be just fine.

That said, there are two accessories that I use to prevent fatigue setting in when I'm shooting for a long time:

One is a wrist strap, which when snugged up tightly creates a sort of "bond" between your right hand & the camera.

The other is a comfortable neoprene neck strap so that you can get the weight off your wrist when you're not shooting.

The 7D is working pretty well for me these days. I'm ready actually use it shooting social events.

Badger said:

OK, I hesitate to post this because I don't want to be seen as one of those posters who seem to complain about everything. So, before I complain, (or make a suggestion to Canon) I will say I just came from a 20D to the 6D and I am happy as a pig in slop. I am also not a professional photographer and can go days without using my camera.

Here is my complaint. I wish Canon would have included an auto off for GPS or a physical switch to turn it on or off. Its been a couple of days since I've picked up my camera and last I saw it, the battery was at about 75%. Now its at 50%. Yes I know I can go through the menues to turn GPS off, but that is kind of a pain. I also know that most of you don't seem to care about GPS and will probably leave it off given the chance, but I think it's kind of cool to have and in fact want my pictures geo tagged.

To be clear, I love this camera but if Canon is listening, how about an auto off for GPS? I would rather have that, and have to wait a minute to acuire a lock than to pull my camera out and find the battery dead...(maybe thats the answer, Ill take the battery out every time I put the camera away)

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I registered both WiFi and GPS to the "My Menu", that way I can access them quickly. I've also gotten in the habit of checking the top LCD when I put my camera away. It'd be nice to have an auto off feature, but I can live with it.

Axilrod said:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=405&Camera=396&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=829&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

There ya go, it looks like the 35 is indeed crushing the 30. I know charts aren't everything, but it's a large enough of a difference to make that conclusion.

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These are with two different cameras. The 30mm is mounted on a 30D (1.6 crop, 8MP) and the 35 is mounted on a 1Ds III (full frame, 21MP). Not a good comparison.

BMC with a $40 lens and anamorphic adapter.

Blackmagic Cinema Camera ♥ Anamorphic on Vimeo

Look at the highlight detail on the lights. Say hello to the power of RAW.

speirsphoto said:

Thanks Rusty & Scotty for the info, Rusty I'm the same ,center point & one shot, always have been. I have owned AF cameras from when they first appeared & that is the only way I find I am sure I have focused on the point I want. Great idea to hire one to see if it works for me, well worth the peace of mind. After 25 years of shooting weddings I am always reluctant to change my system unless it absolutely going to make life easier or provide a better result. I have 3x orig 5d bodies & never had a problem & shoot with 24-105 lenses, which I love for simplicity, used to have lots of primes & F5 bodies ext but really have concerns with newer bodies having so many short falls for regular tasks & purchasing now & 6 months later the short falls have been addressed in an updated model. I just want a body that does the expected tasks & confident fast focusing is one of those in reception low light.Onloc I am very keen to view images on a larger screen in harsh light & see if fill flash has done its job. Think I will hire a body & have a play, thanks again,cheers Pete

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Glad I could help. I'm rushing out now but my 6D just arrived and I gave it a quick 20 minutes. It's a little simpler to use than the 5D3 and smaller body feel/grip aside, works a little more like the 5D Classic. Be aware that it warns and punishes you with no battery status info if you aren't using a genuine Canon battery. Joy. Still, coming from the 5D Classic myself, you might want to rent the 6D first to see what you think, then try the 5D3. Just a thought. You'll need some new UHS-1 SD cards however to get the best write speeds, otherwise any SD card will work.

Just got my 6D, fired it up and noticed the same "irregular communication" warning except mine says...

Warning - You not spend your money with Canon, this battery not genuine. You Bad! NO BATTERY STATUS FOR YOU!

Oddly enough, even though none of the other menu items have sound, this one actually spoke the last part to me like the the Soup Nazi from Seinfeld but with a Japanese accent. Then it ended with the Pac-Man game over jingle. I actually thought it was pretty cool and plan to buy more non-genuine batteries so I hear it more often. ;D

Seriously, this is an obvious attempt by Canon to 'root out' all the counterfit batteries that are becoming more and more of a problem. I understand the point on this because a lot of people get ripped off by very good looking fakes that cost the same price as a genuine battery. OTOH, when I intentionally buy an aftermarket battery for half the price (still not cheap) that works perfectly well and isn't trying to rip me off, I don't like Canon slapping me down for it and denying me functionality. That's just mean. (Just like Apple! Punish the end user because they can.)

In the end, we users are the losers either way so while I think Canon is fine alerting the user about the non-genuine battery, they definitely should not hide the gesture behind a confusing error msg instead of just saying it outright. And I think they are being pretty crappy/uncool by disabling the status information to punish you.

Come on Canon! You have 99% of my money already. Stop pissing me off over a simple accessory.

End of Rant.

TrumpetPower,
A wonderful way to honor his skills. Wonderful to do this together with him.

I attach a shot I did among other portraits of craftspeople featured in a brochure about fine printing papers from Monadnock, a New England specialty papermaking company.

To the OP: several softboxes used, with Norman packs. 120 Plus-X film, Hasselblad with the 80mm. There were three, because the light had some small amout of fill toward the back of the scene. Two pointed at the subject.

At that time Chimera was the undisputed leader. The ring system attached to the metal head casing was always the strongest arrangement and allowed better tilt control. Some of my current units are a little more dodgy about holding their angle chosen adjustment when pointing down. We didn't have to get inside the box after finishing the setup because power was changed at the power pack. In this dark workshop modeling lights are a godsend. No auto focus!

We went to the workshops of a flutemaker, canoe builder, too. Great assignment. A grandfather clock and a canoe came back to the studio for beauty shots. The futemaker said "No way" (gold) and we shot that gold instrument in his basement. More softbox use!

jonathan7007

yikes-edited to get rid of some of the dust on the scan. Sorry, everyone. gotta re-do that...

Drizzt321:

I do have the software and I will check it out (probably won't find the time until next weekend, though).

To Studio1930's point, I've never had an issue with my 70-200 II in low light -- even inside an ice rink. Kind of sad to see the issue with the 24-70 II. Though, I will say that I have used the 24-70 II at night on a moving train and still gotten fairly good pictures (at 1/200 sec with a more fully charged battery).

Still haven't ruled out user error on my part.

Shawn L.

The 6D is a bit better than 5D3 at 12,800 in terms of noise. After manipulating in Capture One 7 I was able to get them very close however. The 6D shots have a skew towards red visible in the third scene and the 5D3 color balance and renditions look better to me. That is viewing in both DPP and Capture One.

JMO, YMMV, etc...

Trovador said:

In 6 to 8 years you won't even need to take the lens cap off!

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Unless there's a light leak issue .

yes, auto iso range works in M mode on 6d. you can set low to a 100 and max up to 25600.

AudioGlenn said:

Dylan777 said:

I finally posted my 50mm f1.4 on CL yesterday around 3:30PM and the lens got sold by 6PM same day for $290 cash.

When I opened my camera bag this morning, I see an empty spot in my bag - where the 50mm sits when not in use.

My feeling right now = :-\ to :'(

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Sadly, i just sold mine today(for $280). There's an empty slot in my bag now, too where the 50 would sit. :'( My wife brought up a good point though. I should be happy that I have the new 24-70 II. After I purchase an UWA and a Macro lens, I'll save up for the 50L. In the meantime, the 35L will do.

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he he....I thought I was the only one. My 50L is now taking over that slot. The copy I have now seems to have back focus issue. When AFMA is set at -8 in camera, the lens is AMAZING at f1.2 The build quality is SOLID

Menace said:

After taking all this feedback in, do share your next wedding pics with us

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Some new shots. Any progress?

I would like to learn more about weather sealing. Like: what is good and what is not so good? what's the difference between o-ring and foam?
Any links? pics? threads?
Thanks

without knowing much about you and your shooting, I'd advise you to keep the 35L. I recently made the jump to a 5D mkiii from a 60D. I just sold my 50 1.4 today. One of the main uses of a prime lens is to use it wide open (or close to wide open). I was having to stop down my aperture to f/4 or f/5.6 to get really sharp images. at 1.4, it was so so. The 35L looks much better wide open...well, at least when stopped down to about 1.8-2.8, but still nice enough for my style at 1.4. I'll be saving for the 50L eventually.

It really depends on how much effort you want to exert.

No matter what, you should get away from the city lights. Next, look into google sky map or a star chart and find the constellation Gemini. That is where there is going to be the highest probability of capturing a meteor. A wide angle lens is best, so shoot for a focal length around 14mm to 40mm.

As Drizzt321 said, a remote shutter release is definitely preferred, but using a 2 second or 10 second timer helps significantly reduce vibrations if you do not have a remote.

If you want to get advanced, you would want an intervalometer and limit your exposures to 10-15 seconds (to not have star trails). (magic lantern has an intervalometer if you have it installed) If you take pictures sequentially for a couple hours during the peak of the shower, you can stack the images together. This would show all meteors captured on a single image..

BruinBear - depending on where you are hiking, how long you are out, what the weather conditions are and if you're spending the night perhaps, how much food/water you are carrying and what the terrain is, a 10 mile hike can be pretty serious. I assume/hope you normally hike with a buddy.

don't worry too much about noise tests- Canon 'cheats' when figuring out their ISO's and noise claims- As do other manufacturers- If I remember right, the 1DX figures noise differently than the 5d3 and therefore was able to say their 8000 iso gave similar results as 5D3's iso 6400 or some such figures- The fact is that all these cameras ruly are excellent in low light and high iso's- taking photos without flash that cameras 10 years ago couldn't even dream of taking- We are now takign photos that were impossible not too long ago and with much less noise too- cameras have really advanced by leaps and bounds, and we're in a very exciting time in terms of camera technology- some say we're even close to the max advancements with our current crop of cameras- iT MAY BE THAT THE 6d HAS SLIGHTLY BETTER NOISE CONTROL, IT MAY JUST BE IN HOW THE CALCULATIONS AREFIGURED AND HTE FACT IS THAT ALL THE BIG GUNS ARE NEARLY IDENTICLE IN ACTUALITY- WHO KNOWS- Durn cps lock- just enjoy your purchase, you have a fantastic camera which WILL be able to shoot lowl ight nicely