A EF to EF-M TSE Adapter

dr croubie said:
a) yes that would be cool. There's already a lot of other T/S adapters for various lenses to Mirrorless systems (i've also got a few for MF lenses to my EF bodies)
b) But 'af passthrough' wouldn't work. AF works by looking at the relative phase-differences of the lightwaves coming through the lens. as far as I know, if the lightwaves aren't coming in at the right angle, AF would struggle (if you've ever used a tilt or shift lens, or lensbaby, you'll know it messes up the light-metering, same deal). But using contrast-detect in live-view works (for light metering at least). so maybe it might work for AF too (the contrast-detect af, not the phase-on-sensor). Still, I don't know what would be the point of a t/s lens with af...
At least being able to pass the aperture-closing signals through would be good, then any EF lens would be a t/s lens (no point on ef-s lenses). I was thinking that might be difficult to keep constant-rotation in the adapter, the wire links can't go around forever. But then I realised that normal TSE lenses so that anyway, so there's probably a way around it...

cool thanks for the info on b) i guess at least AF confirm and exif data transfer would be nice then, I would think the EF image circle onto the AP-C sensor and having the extra flange distance it would be a cool adapter to be able to turn any EF lens into a TS lens
Upvote 0

Bokeh Quality from Different Fullframes vs APS-C´s DLSRs?

neuroanatomist said:
NormanBates said:
What full frame gives you is MORE bokeh, not better bokeh (i.e. DoF is shallower).

It's my understanding that bokeh refers only to the quality of OOF blur, not the quantity. Therefore it can be better or worse, but 'more bokeh' is an non sequitur.

At least that is the way the OED sees it:
http://oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/bokeh?q=bokeh

the visual quality of the out-of-focus areas of a photographic image, especially as rendered by a particular lens.
Upvote 0

Extenders with 5d3

alben said:
Thanks for the info, I had not realised the 2x would be f11 :-[ any preference between the Canon or Kenko, my instinct is to go with the Canon Mk111 even if it is more expensive.

Alan
One thing to consider is that the Kenko will work with lenses like the 100mmL and the 70-300mmL while the Canon TC either will not mount at all, or only works at certain focal lengths.
I bout a Kenko f/1.4 and it worked for about 20 images and then dies the 2nd time I went to use it. I did not replace it, just returned it because Canon announced the f/8 firmware and I already have Canon TC's.
I have not heard of reliability issues with Kenko, so it might have just been bad luck.
Upvote 0

50mm

Mt Spokane Photography said:
littlepilotdude said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:
You did not say what you would use it for, or if you would be a heavy duty user or ligh user. There is not a huge difference in image quality between a cheap 50mm f/1.8 and a $750 lens. For the most part, you are paying for a wider aperture, improved construction, and faster autofocus.
If you are only going to use the lens occasionally, get the Canon 50mm f/1.8. However, if you want to use manual focus one of the others will be better, the Zeiss being much easier to manually focus. However, with manual focus, you run into other issues like the viewfinder size, focus screen type, etc.
Another thing to understand is that lenses perform differently on APS-C and Full Frame bodies. The Sigma 50mm f/1.4 is optimized for Crop bodies, while the Canon 50mm f/1.4 is optimized for use on FF bodies and has better IQ on FF than the Sigma does.

Hello,

I would use this lens quite frequently in all situations. I'm looking for a well constructed lens and good quality. I have used the Zeiss and it was great. I have also used the Canon 50 1.4 and it wasn't as good as the Zeiss. The only one I haven't used is the Sigma. I use a 5D Mark II, so I wouldn't go with the sigma since it isn't great with full frame.

Thanks,

littlepilotdude
Are you talking the Zeiss 50mm f/1.4? It certainly is not as good optically as the Canon 50mm f/1.4, but has a better build by far. With a wide aperture autofocus lens, its pretty common for the AF to need fine tuning with AFMA for the best results.
Here is a link to comparisons of test data. The Zeiss has less viginetting, but loses by a lot in the other areas.
http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Compare-Camera-Lenses/Compare-lenses/(lens1)/196/(lens2)/341/(brand1)/Canon/(camera1)/483/(brand2)/Zeiss/(camera2)/483

I was talking about the 50mm in general.
Upvote 0

New crop bodies coming!

Dylan777 said:
Cgdillan said:
I just heard that we will be seeing a new 70D and 7D mkII!!!
Here is the timeline I was told

present:
The 7D and 60D will remain current

year 2015 still current

year 2018 new sensor tech announced

year 2025 70D and 7D mkII receive a long awaited upgrade and have digic VI processors and an 18MP hybrid sensor with phase AF for continuos focus in video mode! Also, the power of the new processor will enable 1 full stop better high iso when shooting jpeg.

:P

seems about right to me...

You must be really f_ken bored....to have this type of topic posted

I was...
Upvote 0

Max Print Size for Landscapes

bran8 said:
I am wondering if some light could be shed on the max useable print size for landscapes taken with a 5dii/5diii. I have looked over another post on this forum that discussed this topic and have read some of the links provided, but am still left wondering a few things:

1) The link that was given referencing a tutorial on Adorama's website suggested that the print size be limited to the pixel dimensions divided by 135. That would give a roughly 42" x 28" print (rounded up) printed at 240 dpi for the 5d mark ii. My question is, how accurate is that assumption? What if I print at 300 dpi?

2) How much of an advantage does someone using a d800 (or for that matter a 46mp Canon when the time comes) have over someone using a 5dii when printing at say 45" x 30" or 60" x 40"? Anyone with experience printing landscapes from a d800 vs. a 5dii/iii?

3) What do you find the best program is to enlarge landscape photos? I have Perfect Resize 7, but have found that I like the results from CS6 better. I feel that Perfect Resize 7 gives results that look more like a painting (on the screen, I have never printed one of these to a 60" x 40" size, so maybe it looks better than CS6 once it is printed), but I really don't know a lot about the program and only use basic settings. Am I missing something there?

4) I know that a common answer to the question of how large can you print a photo is, "It depends." I would like to get a more specific answer from someone that commonly does print large, high-detail landscape photos. How large are you willing to print landscapes taken with a 5dii/iii?


Thank you in advance for any responses to any of the above questions!

You can go 2 miles x 3 miles wide as long as your viewing distance is about 9 miles or more away.
Viewing distance is what matters.

The question for you would be how far away will it be viewed.
Upvote 0

Would I benefit from going full frame?

Firstly, >1600 ISO images from 7D aren't bad, and I am sure in the hands of competent photographers are perfectly usable- however, that I feel is the one weakness of that excellent camera.
Secondly, when you think of all the extra light there is to be had if you go FF (I know FF users can also think the same of going MF!) and all the shallow DoF that you can use creatively, that is one big incentive.
I haven't ruled out 5DIII, in fact that is what I am going to save up for now- thanks to the general advice I got in this thread and elsewhere. I do think I'd miss the fps of the 7D if I go with 5DII/6D.
But this is very good advice:
elflord said:
If you're shooting indoors a lot, you'll be better served by faster glass
dtaylor said:
* Finally, for the price and hassle of moving, why not just add a fast prime?
I think I'd benefit from f/1.4 glass as well- it will counter my high ISO problem as well as provide the shallow DoF when I do go FF. But I think a 24mm or 35mm will suit me better indoors. 50mm on a crop is too long. I used to have the 1.4, but ended up selling it and just kept the 50 1.8.
Upvote 0

Full frame or not???

The 24-105 f/4 is a very popular lens amongst wedding shooters in Melbourne. - Even Yervant uses it.

While a f/2.8 zoom is a blessing in terms of having the extra stop of light and more accurate AF, a lot of the time a wider aperture only affords you enough DoF to get one person in focus - unless all your subjects are parallel to your focal plane, which is often not true.

If you are only shooting with one body, the 24-105 also allows you the benefit of not having to change lenses as often. - Apart from 1 stop less light, the 24-105's bokeh is nowhere near as nice as the 24-70 f/2.8II.

My wife started out shooting weddings using mainly the 24-105 (partly because of not having other lenses), but is gravitating more towards the combination of the 24-70 f/2.8II and 70-200 f/2.8 IS USM II. The double Blackrapid strap just arrived in the post this week ;-)

Someone else made the comment about using a cheaper prime to make up for the lack of a f/2.8 zoom - that was one of the strategies my wife applied as well - taking along a 50mm f/1.4 as well and using it when she really needed low light performance.
Upvote 0

Where the heck is the 70D or 7D mkII?

dlleno said:
They've telegraphed the big MP FF (to keep people from jumping to Nikon I suppose) ...

Canon hasn't telegraphed anything.

The 46mp figure is derived by scaling the resolution of the 7D/60D sensor to FF:
  • 18mp * 1.6 * 1.6 = 46.08mp

Not sure who thought that this was a good idea but it looks like wishful thinking to me.

40mp would be much more palatable, for example.
A 40mp sensor will be able to achieve UHD video resolution (3840 × 2160) with 2x2 pixel binning.
Canon is already doing 2x2 pixel binning on the 5DIII for HD video (hence the magic number 22mp).
And it would only make sense if they do the exact same thing on a high-MP camera.
This would require a 40mp sensor, though, not a 46mp sensor.
So, 40mp is actually more likely than 46mp for the high-MP camera.

The 46mp figure is not only not telegraphed by Canon but it's also a very weak [CR0] rumor.
Upvote 0

A positive feedback for 6D

http://www.eoshd.com/content/9044/exclusive-canon-confirm-1d-c-4k-dslr-is-same-hardware-as-the-1d-x

This to me is identical enough to be called identical for all intensive purposes. I agree to disagree. I am thinking about firmware being the main thing to Canon's camera sensor capabilities. Firmware and gapless sensors being the last way to give their cameras a boost before moving to more advanced sensor tech. I claim no knowledge on the matter but believe it. Chuck Westfall did seem to allude to great firmware being a major advancement during the 5dm3 release.
Upvote 0

NEED SOME ADVICE

Hi Everyone,

I've shot Leica Rangefinders for the last couple of years. Prior to that I was a Nikon film user. I just purcahsed a Mark III and to say I'm overwhelmed would be an understatement. I have the opportunity to get on the field this weekend for the pregame activities, warm ups, etc. at the Panthers-Broncos game. I have a 70-200 II IS lens but I need some advice regarding settings for the Mark III. I'm reading the manual and a Nook download but I just don't have the time to learn and figure things out for myself since the game is this weekend.

Any help with settings, etc., would be greatly appreciated!!!

Canon Surveys for 5D Mark III

Zlatko said:
NormanBates said:
Forget about inflation, exchange rates, and all that. Those are all excuses. The 5D3 doesn't have to compete with a 5D2 released at $2700 4 years ago. It has to compete with the D800, which has a much better sensor and sells for $3000.
Right, it does have to compete against the D800, which was priced lower at introduction. Happily, the 5D3 price is coming down.

However, the question of a "better sensor" depends on the intended use and the preferences of the user. I prefer Canon color for photos of people, so the 5D3 has the better sensor for me. If I were a landscape photographer, I'd probably favor the D800 sensor.

And other important factors come into the equation. Without a smaller Raw file format and without a super-quiet shutter mode and without Canon ergonomics and certain Canon lenses and the Canon radio-controlled flash, the D800 is less attractive for me, and therefor less competitive even at a lower price. For these reasons, the 5D3 competes very well for some photographers, whether priced the same as the D800 or higher. It comes down to the needs and preferences of the photographer.

So there are multiple factors, some of which have greater importance to certain photographers; DR is just one of them. Back when Nikon didn't offer a full-frame camera or any camera with excellent high ISO performance, some photographers still preferred Nikon because other factors were more important to them. This is why reducing camera competitiveness to just one or two factors and a price doesn't work.

There are obviously many photographers for whom the D800 will be a better fit and likewise many for whom the 5D3 will be a better fit, notwithstanding any price differences. It's apparent that Canon and Nikon intentionally design at least some of their products with somewhat different buyers in mind (with a good deal of overlap, of course) — this way they don't have to compete strictly on price.

+1 ...others have said it so I'll repeat it...why are we so dogmatic about this that we can't just use 2 systems if the needs for both are that great? I shoot weddings, portraits and events as my bread and butter...but I do also shoot landscapes and cityscapes and urban decay, etc, etc too. If demand for my art were to get to a point where I could live off of it, then yeah I would seriously consider picking up a d800. But, right now for me the service end is more lucrative - and yeah, the 5d3 is the better camera for that kind of work.
Upvote 0

Need comparisons between Canon 135L vs 100L

florianbieler.de said:
After spending some weeks thinking about this 135 and especially it's massive price tag (at least for me it is), I decided to trash my 70-200 4.0L non-IS (don't use it that often anyway) and get the 135 instead.

So now I own the 100L and the 135L. I am going out for a testdrive later this weekend to see if it's really that magic. But I very much hope so.

Enjoy! If you recieved a good 135L copy, You'll find it's just as sharp as your 70-200 F/4 @ F/2.
Upvote 0

maddie

RLPhoto said:
I like the punchy-colors much better.

You must have been eye-level when shooting these shots because the first photo has a-lot of headroom. If your going for atmosphere around your model, a lower angle would seperate and yet, make the background present. Eye level or above eye level tends to put emphasis on the foreground in-front of your subject.
thanks for the tip i will give it a go on my next shoot :-)
Upvote 0

Which way to go

d8032 said:
I've gone back and forth with myself over the 15 vs. the 8-15. I think the 8-15 is reasonably priced, but I don't know that I would use the wide end of it very much and question if the difference in cost could be better used somewhere else. Do you have experience with either lens? What types of situations would you want the circular image the 8mm produces on a FF body?

The zoom range of the 8-15 is nice if you have camera bodies of different formats, which you do. You can get full frame 180 diagonal AOV with both bodies, and you can decrease the AOV on the crop by using it at longer focal lengths. The longer focal length on a crop effectively uses the center of the image circle, which is less distorted.
Upvote 0

Filter

Forum statistics

Threads
37,274
Messages
967,045
Members
24,634
Latest member
Mcsnows

Gallery statistics

Categories
1
Albums
29
Uploaded media
353
Embedded media
1
Comments
25
Disk usage
982.4 MB