I was in Alaska taking photos of bears, etc. and I was glad to have the extra reach of the 600mm f/4 IS. I used the Really Right Stuff gimbal head but I've used the Wimberley before which is a bit smoother, lighter, and I highly recommend it. I have the 1Dx now but I had the 1D Mark IV and if budget is an issue, I think that the 1D Mark IV is a great body for your purposes -- it's also a 1.3 crop factor.

verysimplejason said:

zim said:

Gjako said:

Hi everybody!

I have noticed that more image samples have been released.
I have been following the 6d for a long time as I'm thinking seriously about getting one (jumping from a T1i will be a big change )

What do you think about these pics?

www.whatdigitalcamera.com/equipment/galleries/sample-images/canon/34718/1/canon-eos-6d-beta-image-sample-gallery.html

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As ever it's the RAW's we need to see but I do like the flower (3200) and the bike (12800) although wrong lens choice for the flower shot I'd have thought but anyway not seeing any nasty colour blotches starting in the dark areas at 12800 very usable, wish they had done that one at 25600 though.

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Some RAW shots from 6D and an updated DPP raw converter.

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Absolutely, no decision from me until April/May

Hi all,
Does anyone know how to repair/disguise brassing on a F1n? (actually on a AE-FN finder)
I’m also wondering if there would be anywhere (UK) that could put a new finish on it cheaper than just getting a ‘new’ clean one.

This is NOT for selling on!

Any help/suggestions most appreciated.

Promature said:

Thank you for the advice all. I just placed an order for the following and should be here early next week:
Manfrotto 055XDB Black Basic Tripod Legs
Markins Q3

I also had a chance today to take some more pictures, and based on those results (blown sky, dark beach), I also need a graduated ND filter and circular polarizer:
B+W 77mm Kaesemann Circular Polarizer with Multi-Resistant Coating
B+W 77mm Grad ND 0.6-4X (502)

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I wouldn't waste your money on any screw in grad filters, as they have no flexibility.

I swear, this is the hardest, most difficult thing to get used to.

So, if you have it set up with EOS-Utility, which seems to be the most simple way to synch the computer and the camera, all seems okay.

Then, when you walk away from your wifi zone, or shut the computer off, you have to manually shut off the camera's WIFI, or it blinks red, eating batteries -- ANNOYING.

Then, the next time you want to wifi, you have to go through the connection menus to establish wifi again, making you wonder WHY THE HECK you ever wanted to use the wifi, and didn't instead just rip the card out and put it in to a card reader.

In short, there's no plug-n-play AT ALL with this device, nor is there any auto detection of anything -- sort of like the GPS card, which if it can't find GPS, just blinks forever (say, you're indoors), eating battery, instead of just cycling off.

Maybe I'm using these devices wrong, but they're really not "professional" level, or even "current" level with today's technology or useability standards -- they're just plain annoying instead, making you not want to use them in the future.

also, the manual for the wifi adaptor jumps around, making 4 of the 5 connection methods virtually impossible to follow -- again, why macs gained so much, and PCs failed so much -- nobody wants to become a pseudo-expert in internet connectivity to make the pro equipment to work properly -- that should be automatic in the included software -- instead, they just want the stuff to work.

The answer is in Richard Lane's post immediately above yours. Check C2 and C3.

Nice deal on mark iii...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-Camera-with-EF-24-105L-IS-Lens-Speedlite-600EX-RT-/390502525737?afepn=5335869999&campid=5335869999&PID=1225267&pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item5aebc3ab29

Not sure what the budget is, but ideally id suggest the 5d3, 24-70 2.8 II and 70-200 2.8 IS. Not much you cant do with that setup. The 7d with 24-70 can be a bit long for indoor shots. And at 2.8 your iso will be higher than what the 7d can handle...the 5d3 with any fast lenses would be my suggestion. Fps are plenty for kids and whatnot....

woollybear said:

Aw..come on Neuro...that's a little harsh isn't it? I learn a lot here from reading opinions of opinions of opinions....

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LOL. Fair enough...

[quote author=Pocket-lint]
We'll be updating this list as we get each new DSLR into our review labs. When we find one that becomes the king of its particular category, we'll be inking the necessary alterations. So, rest assured that whatever you're reading here, whenever you're reading it, is the very best DSLR cameras of the few we've tested
[/quote]

I added that bit at the end. I wonder if they've tested a 5DIII?

If you shoot a digital camera, Its possible through this mans research. Its very sad but his legacy lives on in all our cameras.

http://www.dpreview.com/news/2012/11/21/former-kodak-scientist-bayer-filter-inventor-bryce-bayer-dies-aged-83

as others have mentioned good current photos of the gear helps (make sure everything has been cleaned), take the caps off of the lenses and give the buyer a good idea what sort of shape the glass is in. An honest description of the condition of the gear goes a long way. see what the going rate is on ebay and amazon for the used parts and then decide where you want to post it. If you want it to sell fast just take the average price and discount it 5-10%. Also check who else is selling the same stuff where ever you post it and consider undercutting their price by a few points. Craigslist is good, I always leave my phone number for folks to call me and tell them text messages and emails will be ignored. Your more likely to get a serious buyer if they contact you via phone. Of course the usual CL cautions, no shipping, cash only, meet at a public location (local starbucks etc). Other places are fredmiranda.com (there is a one time buy and sell fee), photography on the net (no fee, but must be a 30 day member and have a certain number of posts), and of course ebay.

brianleighty said:

the 90mm macro seems interesting. If they could price it somewhere around $500-$600 then I'd be interested. I'm just about confident that they'll try to price it closer to the Canon 100L IS though which is funny to me that they seem to price their macros so close to Canon's which at that point it doesn't make any sense to go away from something you know will work to something you're taking more risk on.

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Not really, it looks like the macro will be (much) more expensive which is rather disappointing. These are prices from two dutch webshops:

Tamron 90mm F2.8 AF Di VC USD Macro:
999 Euro (this must be the recommended retail price as it is not yet available).

Canon EF 100mm F/2.8 L USM iS:
717 Euro after cashback (cashback is 70 Euro)

I'd get the 5D MK II or MK III.
For low light use, unless the subjects are very still, f/2.8 is only fast enough for slow shutter speeds, and f/4 won't do it.
You might be better off with some low cost prime lenses for the low light work than a expensive zoom.
A 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 is like 30mm on your crop.
A 85mm f/1.8 is a very good value, and a wide angle lens like a 28mm f/1.8 would handle much of your needs. The 85 is good for portraits and sports. A alternate to the 85 might be a 100mm f/2.
For outdoor use with reasonably good light, its hard to beat the kit deal with the 24-105mmL.
Watch for daily deals on ebay and jump immediately. 500 5D MK II's were blown out this morning for $2599.

There are several advantages to FF and Crop formats. Pixel density and MP are only one part of why to have each body. I agree that in post processing, cropping a FF image to a similar Crop size is a wash in terms of IQ. On the other end of the process however (clicking the shutter), where the camera matters, there is a difference. A crop body will give you more reach and allow you to compose/frame the way you wish. Cropping images after the fact can be a chore and takes quite a bit of time if you are shooting sports sequentially, etc. Depending on the crop body, it may give you superior frame rates not available in FF. My 60D has an articulating sensor that I use occasionally. The crop body may give you a better lens selection depending on your equipment. And crop bodies are less expensive than FF. If I could only have one body, it would be FF. However, I often carry two bodies and switch back and forth to have either better reach/frame rate or better width.

All I'm saying is that there is more to consider when comparing crop vs. FF besides megapixels and crop factor.

littlepilotdude said:

neuroanatomist said:

For example, the 600/4L IS II

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If I were just starting out, and being on a budget, would this be a good lens?

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Thats just Neuro struggling to find anyway to bring up he finally got a 600 f/4.

+1000 for the 135 and also using a 1.4x, this combo takes very little of a hit due to the extender.

Brad-man, thank you for saving me $70!!! B&H had just dropped the price to $299, but then I saw your post...

Neuro, thank you for the tip on the Lowepro Apex 20 AW. I'll have to check that one out.

Thanks all, this is very useful for me too!

if you're going to buy used, why not buy a new one on ebay for 2500 bucks. not sure if the warranty is valid, but heck, that's gotta be cheaper than most used ones.... and no light leak!

Perhaps it's down to video being lower resolution to photo and appearing sharper to the eye. Also, I'm not sure if the noise reduction filter is active with video. This is well known make still images look soft from Canon cameras.


Shoot raw, then sharpen using he unsharp mask in Photoshop.

Nice work Ryan

70-200 since you have a 50 1.2 already

Looks like you are about to save some dineros. Are you still going to buy in January despite not knowing what Canon may announce with regards to the new 7D II and possible high MP camera?

I would rather have to sacrifice some noise to keep the pixel density of the 7D image. A bird photo that doesn't resolve any details isn't much good even if it's free of noise.

I think the 7D replacement should help these concerns to a large extent.

pwp said:

verysimplejason said:

I am thinking it will be prudent for me to wait for the next G*

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Hah! I think that elusive, perfect NextG is always somewhere over the rainbow. I've been putting it off with each new G-Series release since my very brief, underwhelming ownership of a G3. "I'll just see what the next one is like..." I've never really minded taking my FF with me.

But you know what? The G15 might be the one to tempt me...the bright lens, quicker AF and the strong high iso performance and small size. It's certainly worth a test drive.

-PW

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G11 did it for me at least at that time, a lot better than the previous G series and almost as good as G12. G15 is good enough to be a successor if only they retained the swivel screen and the extra wheel. They should have replaced it with a button just like DSLRs if they really can't add a wheel. Without the swivel screen, this G15 can be replaced with an S110 if you don't use the tunnel viewfinder that much.

Dylan777 said:

verysimplejason said:

dolina said:

Sony's A-mount SLT is 'technically' a mirrorless. Demount the lens from the body and you will see the A99's full frame immediately.

I was looking at the Leica M but since getting the 40/2.8 Pancake of Canon the requirement waned.

I wish Canon's EOS M was the first sub-$3000 FF mirrorless but I guess Canon was trying to improve profit margins with their APS-C sensors.

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+1. Sony has already the first full frame mirrorless Camera with AF and interchangeable lenses. The only thing missing I think is the typical mirrorless form factor. A99 even have a great AF and a very good viewfinder already. Counting the available Zeiss lenses, the realization of a full-frame with great AF, great lenses, small form factor and mirrorless isn't that far off with Sony. Sony, please make your A99 smaller...

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I don't see how you can put that Sony FF mirrorless in pocket ??? Unless, you carry a purse with you ;D

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It's not pocketable that's why I have also highlighted that fact. However, we've seen already what Sony can do with RX1. Putting the interchangeable lenses on its body will require it to bulge a little bit more. I doubt that it will be pocketable unless they create a new mount and an adapter much like what EOS-M had done.