Thanks for the concern, I certainly hope things return to some normalcy soon. Even though I'm without power and heat, there are many who suffered far worse and my thoughts are definitely with them. I was fortunate to go out and shoot a few photos from the relatively safe confines of the West Village in Manhattan. Here's a link http://tinyurl.com/csaas7e to a few photos posted on H and B Digital's blog from the storm.

Additionally, below is one of the photos typical of the "happy hours" before the storm--and before reality hit--where people were out taking portraits with smaller cameras (though this appears to be with something like the Canon S95 series, which I also used and love).



Finally, regarding the SX50, there is an ISO limit in auto modes (at 1600, I believe), and you can set the limit at ISO 1600 or below in the manual functions. You can still shoot up to ISO 6400 (12,800 expanded) in the manual settings, however, and can shoot up to 15 second shots. I haven't had a chance to shoot it at night (maybe I can take it home tonight and shoot some dark West Village photos, but I generally don't take new cameras out of the store!), but in low light conditions around the store it focuses incredibly quickly. I don't have images of those yet, will try and get some up. As I believe I said in my review, I certainly don't expect the images to stand up to an EOS or other DSLR, but where else can you get a zoom like that???

The 5D Mark II is very close to the 7D/60D as they're all Digic4 bodies. The menu system on the 5D Mark III is a whole different ball game since it's Digic5. But if you're comfortable with a 40D/60D/7D you'll have no trouble using the Mark II. When I rent out a Mark III I usually include the manual to help them figure things out.

I bought a second hand 135 mm and I love it, I sometimes wonder whether the 50 mm would be a better prospect for low light performance and walkabout lens, but the AF/backfocus issues always put me off.

Nostrada said:

BrandonKing96 said:

Being realistic, the Nikon would most likely out perform the Canon.
Realistic? What ever do I mean?!

The Canon 70-200 f/4 IS was released in 2006. No doubt a great light and more affordable option compared to the f/2.8, but it is a little old (I wouldn't mind Canon releasing a mark II of this, to be honest. the f/4 IS is so outdated now, although a great option). Even though it does perform magnificently with it's optics, AF, etc., the Nikon would most like be using more recent technology. I guess we'll see with comparisons, but Nikon should take the cake because of how new it is.

I'll just wait and see what it's like though (not insinuating that I'm going to switch to Nikon. NEVER WOULD I!).

Click to expand...

The 70-200 f4 IS a little old? For a lens, 6 years are the equivalent of 20 years in human terms - you would not call a 20something old, would you? . Re the performance, the new Canon 70-200 f2.8 IS II barely outperformes the f4 IS, which is still a magnificent lens and I don't think it can be improved that much. Truth be told, I expect the Nikon to, at the very best, edge it slightly, but that would be that.

Click to expand...

No doubt is the 70-200 f4 IS a great lens (I own it and just love the portability. Forget lugging around an extra kilogram). And it definitely has stood the test of time. But Nikon should defeat Canon in this case. Well, if they play it right that "should" will become a "will". I'd probably still go into a camera store and play with the Nikon 70-200 f/4 anyway.

shutter lag would kill it for me and the 1dx await to hear what it is like on the m... if it is bad i am going olympus...

These are very nice pics. At least even if they've done away with the swivel screen that I love so much, they retained the same macro capability of G11 and G12 unlike G1X. I hope they have improved the IQ a lot also. This may prompt me to upgrade.

Some comparable G11 shots from me.

Great pics, but stay alert if ur still going to head out there. The aftermath is where things can go either way.

Oh yah, I've AFMA'd the 50/1.4 on the 5DmarkII, and the new 7D.

One is -6 the other -5. Thats ok, they're linear... full moon to close up at f/2.0 both bodies track well with the lens.

The problem - is - three shots, from a tripod, from infinity backward to focus, give three different points of focus. The repeatability of both of the 50/1.4's I've owned was not good. They do ok at about f/2.8 or so.. but wider.... and wide open... its maybe 1/3 to 1/2 the shots are not where they ought to be. They run in front, and behind, so its not AFMA.... it simple inconsistency.

AFMA on over two hundred shots in each body.... in real world conditions at various distances from "full moon in the sky" to about 1 meter. Thinks get very weird in that 25 foot range... do better at longer and closer distances, but still... its 1/3 to 1/2 that are not in focus.

Here some footage I shot when we encountered about 100 silky sharks going after a bait ball. Make sure you turn on HD =)

http://youtu.be/Vz_G7RZYDNo?hd=1


Shot on a 5D MK II with an Aquatica Housing.


For more video visit saroshjacob.com
Thanks!

Ordered my 600 II from B&H in late August, received it at the beginning of October. The allotment that covered my order apparently filled all their preorders with some left - it was In Stock on their website for a few hours on the day they prepped my shipment.

Ha! I just noticed the 2x 1dx Brent, Dang! I'm jealous.

I ended up with 10,163 images that got posted of my own. The images at my earlier post were images i took, but they were screen shots of my marketing for the event.

Thanks everyone. I had already heard about the limitation of writing to CF / SD at the same time, but having an SD card to use as an interim is a good plan. I shoot a lot of sport, so normally get down to about 100 shots to go and then look for a good point to switch cards. Having the SD might give me a bit of extra room to pick the card switch point.

Lexar 1000's look to be the way to go, although I'll probably go for 16GB's.

I ordered the 135 f/2 today, $879 from Amazon. Can't wait to get it and start shooting some pics with it.

Im leaning toward a 5dII and 17-40 myself. 17-40 first, ditch my 17-70(even though I love it) and then get a 5dII

Taken in a photowalk (on my own) in London last night...


Just off St Martin's Lane by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 5Diii, 24-105 @ 50mm, 1/40 sec, f5.0, ISO3200


Covent Garden by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: as above, except 65mm, 1/13 sec


The Actors' church by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: as above, except 28mm, 1/10 sec.

All handheld

Its a bit early to wish you a happy high ISO Christmas, but the shops are determined! Actually, the first shot had nothing Christmassy about it, apart from the feel...

Richard

Hi everyone

Recently bought a 200L f2.8 mk I used in excellent condition and I'm very pleased with it, unless I'm shooting in low light situations. I have a 5Dii and in low light this lens hunts too much to grab focus and sometimes it wont grab it at all. Hence, my question: does anyone know if the 200L f2.8 mk II has any improvements regarding focusing from the mk I?

I know the main difference between them is that the mk II lost that useless built-in hood that the mk I had. I also know that the 5Dii autofocus system is crap in low light, but that's what I have.

Thank you all.

Lots of limitations.... it's a DSLR, it wasn't made for filming.

Anyhoo, here's the worst:

- Lack of XLR audio inputs
- Lack of XLR audio inputs.......
- Terrible sound quality beyond the lack of XLR inputs (compared to proper video and sound gear)
- Rolling shutter
- Aliasing
- Morie
- DSLR lenses are terrible at racking focus.

Again, Canon is like Apple; full of fanbois who swear it's amazing.

But hey, you can still get some amazing shots out of it that somewhat resemble what people think is cinematic.

If you are getting this for the video part... don't get it. Look around. Sony are better at making sensors and they are crushing Canon on EVERY area right now.

For still photography in the DSLR class, Canon is still ok, but they really have to shape up.

Remember, the number 1 reason so many people adore Canon is because they are tied up in Canon lenses they don't want to part with.
Fortunately in the video area, the market for adapters is large and therefore you don't NEED a Canon body to use their pretty good lenses. But again.... they are still only DSLR lenses.

emag said:

In a previous I made a living working on optics. A little internal dust is not worth worrying about. A small chip or scratch is not worth worrying about (a dab of flat black paint on a chip is an acceptable treatment). A lot of internal dust is not really worth worrying about, you'd be surprised how much dust it takes to have any effect on images. A fingerprint IS worth worrying about, never allow a fingerprint to remain on a lens. I keep a bottle of ROR and some cotton swabs on hand at all times for just that reason. Dust on the sensor IS worth worrying about - have it cleaned, better yet, get comfortable doing it yourself. Internal fungus is worth worrying about - have it cleaned. Go out and use your lens.

Click to expand...

Dear sir (emag)
Thank you so very much for your given facts to me!
I would be quite sure that it is NOT fungus - and there are kind of dust yes but this is like a scratch on the surface more or less what I first tried to gently swab away with a new and clean LensPen and also tried a brand new and clear lenspaper from Kodak but it clearly was INSIDE the and between the two most rear lens-elements.
The good news is that it does not affect the picture as far as I have seen - and also - the fact that I seldom or never use this Canon EF 135mm f/2L stopped down more than about f/5.6 - because one reason to purchase in this type of fast prime is to use it wide open or maybe at f/2.8 - if I need more DOF I usually change to EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM.
I also checked my EF300mm f/2.8L IS USM that I purchased as brand new and I have been extremely cautious in the process of change of lenses/extenders with this lens and I could not see one single dust particle inside internally in this lens and when I checked my EF 135 f/2L I was quite surprised to find dust in a quality built "L"-lens , that to my understanding maybe should have some kind of dust prevention in the construction/sealings=?

Anyhow I do appreciate your answer as well as all your others answers to my kind of novice level question - but I am quite relieved by all your answers and no I think I wish not to give my money to Canon for some small fraction of "scratch" on the surface of the coating and some additional dust particles inside this fast lens!
Thank you so very much for your contributions to my first question here on this knowledge-treasure-forum - because of ALL of YOU!

Wishing you all excellent shoots with your also excellent lenses and DSLRs and much fun and joy when enjoying the IQ and results of your photographing!

//All the Best!
///Charl

Just use any... the difference will be negligible.

jrista said:

Is the price drop really from Canon, or is it from retailers? I would be really curious to know whether Canon themselves is actually getting less per unit with recent drops to $3100 and $2900 and such, or whether it is simply that the initial 5D III Feaver has warn off? That all the pre-orders and early buyers who were anticipating the 5D III for years and were going to get one regardless are now done, and now retailers are trying to attract the more careful, price-wary buyers? Canon doesn't get $3500 a pop for each 5D III sold...they get something in the mid $2000 range. It is the retailers who are trying to build sales...and I assume that for all the prices down to the low of around $2700 I saw recently, they are still making a profit...as is Canon.

Click to expand...

I got my 5dIII for 2500EUR from a small shop. If you substract the sales tax of 19% you are at 2025EUR. The shop wants to earn something as well as the distributor. So my guess is that canon is getting something in the mid 1000EUR/$ (because EUR=$ for some unknown reason) range.

New shutter required per Canon service today at total cost of $303. Still think I'm on the winning side for a 1D4 with a new heart (shutter) for just under $3K. :

Would rather have a 1DX but really can't afford it unless someone wants to trade theirs for a 1D4 and/or 7D plus a bunch of Canon L glass. Lets make a deal! ;D

http://www.canonwatch.com/chuck-westfall-shows-the-canon-eos-6d-wireless-connectivity/

Looks like fun!

Thanks,
Drew

florian said:

Thanks neuroanatomist good to know that they are the same, didn´t know that. thought they changed something that would not make it fit.
PackLight : That´s what worries me too. I use the B+W nano Käsemann CPL on my other lenses with my 5D III.
But I think they don´t make the optical quality of the pictures better if you don´t need them.
I have the 16-35 II and 70-200 IS II and I only get it on the lens when I have blue skies and have to fight reflections or need some better colors.
With the 600 I think I will use it most to take pictures of Wildlife and most of the time I would worry if the picture would be better without it.
When I get my lens I´ll go and get some pictures of parrots and beeeaters from around where I live and if I´m happy with the colors I will not get a CPL.
Would be intresting to know if you could put a 52mm B+W CPL in, like the Käsemann´s I have. They are the best for a good price and then you could compare if it´s the Canon CPL that´s causing loss of IQ.

Click to expand...

I also have the B+W Nano Kaesman CPL that I use on other lenses. I like the job it does.
I have several older B+W filters that are not as good.
I don't think Canon's CPL is as good as the older B+W's that I have, and not any where close to the class of the Nano Kaesman.
For the most part I do not use the Canon CPL on my supertele's unless I just have to have it. Unlike the Nano Kaseman where during the day I might put it on one of the other lenses and leave it and not think twice.

Hey Folks,
Every time I put my 580EXII as master, he suddenly begins to fail. Every 4 or 5 shots, sometimes at one of these i have the correct exposure, and in others it just sends pre-flashes, but does not fire nor the principal nor the slave.
When I use the STE2, it works 100% perfect.
When the master flash is in manual power, it also works perfect, flawless. Always do this for weddings and indoor photography, so are never at maximum power.
I believe then be a system problem ETTL.
Always use all my flashes (master and slaves) with charged batteries and the battery packs.
On the menu, already assured that the master is to shoot (arrows symbol and light in the master flash).

What should I do?
Getting crazy with that!!!