I thought about using a 5D3 that way. As it turned out at ISOs of 800 and below, my old 40D looked better than the 5D3 image cropped to APS-C size. The same is true comparing cropped 5D3 to 7D, although the 7D improvement over the 40D has been something of a disappointment.

Secretariat said:

How reliable is Ken Rockwell?

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You can absolutely count on KR, 100% of the time, to say anything on his website that will generate more clicks and thus more revenue, whether it's the gospel truth or an outright lie.

smi said:

What do you mean by another set for manual AMFA with FoCal settings Neuro?

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FoCal specifies certainl settings like spot metering, +1 EC, etc., and the shots need to be JPG (and is the only time I don't shoot RAW). That's for taking the shots yourself and having FoCal do the analysis on the images, rather than driving the camera. That was before the 1D X was supported at all. Fortuantely, FoCal for Mac supports full auto calibration now, which will come in handy the next time I do an AFMA (which will be very soon).

@AdamJ- thanks for that.

It will be interesting to see when they come out with their version of the 600-RT - it could be a game changer.

neuroanatomist said:

You're going to look very odd (says the dad who'll be taking a 1D X with 28-300L on a pre-K field trip this week ).

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What, a 1DX and no 600mm f/4L, lame, you might as well take an iPhone

Re: Lens Rebates Extended & 5D Mark II $400 Instant Rebate

Canon Rumors said:

Canon USA

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Anything on an European program? The € prices of Canon recently jumped up considerably, so maybe that's a sign of a rebate program to arrive...

that1guyy said:

Canon will obviously fail like usual.

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I'm always happy to bash Canon I think it's appropriate ($2099 6d vs d600...) but let's see what they'll do about aps-c next year. The market is more mobile since users didn't invest thousands of $$$ into L glass, so Canon cannot get away with its high-price policy like in the ff sector. If they improve the sensor some and then don't cut back on the features we might see a Canon comeback - maybe after the dslr execs got fired for the 6d.

i'm looking forward to seeing this new one!

Maybe I have an exceptional copy of the 300/2.8 L, that I haven't seen any benefit to upgrade to IS. Looking back, I recall that the first one I had was very good, though maybe not nearly this great. In the more than two decades I've used the two copies of this lens, I've gone through several 70-200s, a couple f:4 models as well as four f:2.8s, along with three of the old 80-200/2.8 "magic drainpipes". Only the latest Mark II version of the zoom can compare with my current, yet old, 300 in terms of overall IQ, both sharpness and "look".

If you find one anywhere near a performer as mine, at least if it's you can buy it for less than half the price of a new IS model, I think it's too good a deal to pass up.

Nate said:

HI,

When I travel I usually shoot on wide lenses, architecture and landscapes 65% of the time on my 17-40, 20% of the time I shot on 50 1.4 street photography, and in my bag I always have my 70-200 2.8 IS II for just in case, and when I walk all day long, after a while the weight of it starts to annoy me, so can you guys recommend me a tele lens with is pretty sharp over f8.

(Not necessary Canon lens)

Thanks

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Not sure what focal length you need or want for that purpose. I love love love my 135L and 200 2.8LII. They're both light and extremely good value.

A bit of an outlier and not suited for all applications but I'm also occasionally using my FD 500 f/8 reflex lens with the Ed Mika EF adapter. Given its design it is very sharp but has some inherent issues that need to be considered, e.g the typical "doughnut bokeh" and the fixed aperture.

Other than that I would look at something like the 100-400 or 70-300 DO but have no experiences with either. Not much gain probably over your 70-200 as far as weight is concerned. Maybe one of the f/4 versions without IS?

But for anything that resembles "street photography" I started bringing a 50 and the 135 and don't really miss anything.

SJTstudios said:

Pretend you aone going on a wildlife expedition, or to a sports game. You are going to use this lens handheld, with a monopod, a tripod, extenders, etc.
Which would you choose.

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I would choose a 300mm or 400mm for sports, and a 500mm or 600mm for wildlife.

You didn't mention what type of body you were using, but if you would like to compromise, then you could add an extender and crop body to the shorter lenses, for wildlife.

Schruminator said:

While I haven't used either filter, if you're already paying $2000 for the lens, I'd think an extra $30 (or even $100) for a filter is a no brainer. There's no good reason to buy the best glass out there and then slap on a mediocre filter.

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That's completely true, but up to recently Hoya HD was the top class Clear glass filter from Hoya.
I wondered how much better this new one is. On the other hand, it might even be worse that's why I ask here.

neuroanatomist said:

If you plan to shoot outdoors wide open (portraits, etc.), you might also consider a 3-stop ND - sometimes even 1/8000 s isn't enough.

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I'll use Hoya ND filters from 35mm L so it should be fine, thanks.

Canon's old lenses need adapters to work on anything new
Nikon's old lenses need adapters to work on new Canon or some other bodies.
Nikon's old lenses still work on new Nikon bodies without adapters (with some AF issues on low end bodies)
Therefore, Nikon lenses are more versatile, and there's a pile of old used ones to be found out there, more than Canon's.



True.

But.

Not all things are equal.

Some Nikon Lenses are better than similar Canon lenses of that time.

Other Canon Lenses are better than similar Nikon lenses of that time.

Also Nikon shooters like Nikon Lenses and Canon shooters like Canon Lenses.

So blanket statements are broad, comfortable and kind of cover all the bases but are just barely more right than wrong in any given specific case.

Absolutely!

Do not try using a Nikon non-AI lens on a new Nikon Consumer body. Or one of the "G" lenses that were optimized for APS-C before Nikon actually had a FF digital camera.
General statements lead the unaware into actually believing the misinformation and even into damaging their equipment.
You need to carry a large table around with you if you want to use old Nikon lenses on a new body, or at least have a good memory.
Those wanting to mount old Nikon Lenses need to read this first, or risk damaging their digital body!

http://www.nikonians.org/nikon/slr-lens.html

http://www.aiconversions.com/compatibilitytable.htm

I am very pleased with the 70-300 L. Though I use it mainly for sports (a "poor man" lens for sports) The frontbarrel of the lens is smaller than the rest of the lens and it extends about 7cm (being 7cm wide/diameter) - filter size 67mm
Depends on the fence but you should be able to move it through the fence.

I use the 24-105L as well. Great for general purpose and the 105 reach (plus IS) will be appreciated on a FF camera

This combo works great for me. I hope it will also when I will get my 5D MK III in October

Doubt we will anytime soon. Current 50mm f/1.4 is 19 years old and still sells.

I'd rather see an upgrade to the L version, but that's a ways off too.

AJ said:

I'd leave it on. It doesn't hurt image quality. It'll steady your viewfinder which is easier on the eyes. Also, a steady viewfinder improves AF in my experience.

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Yep, leave it on. Gives AF an advantage for sure, particularly at the longest focal lengths.
Try both ways and check the % of keepers. Then you'll leave it on.

-PW

My recommendation is to find a good clean EOS 620. Takes all EOS EF lenses, has autofocus, sturdy metal body, large contrasty viewfinder and simple controls, with easily replaceable battery and lots and lots of old examples around - try Craigs List or Ebay, if not local camera shops used departments, camera shows and thrift shops. A very nice clean one will fetch between $30.00 to $120.00, depending on who is selling it and where it's selling. This was a high mid-end enthusiast camera when it came out. See" http://kenrockwell.com/canon/film-bodies/eos620.htm to learn more specific details. Generally, it's going to sell for much less than any of the pro EOS cameras of its era, or the ones from a bit later, and be almost as good performing and rugged in use as the pro models, except in autofocus performance, which you should probably not really be using very often anyway, if you really want to learn to master photography, rather than learn to pilot an auto-function camera. They don't make mid-level cameras with construction like the 620 anymore. I bought my son this camera with a new cheap "normal" zoom to go with it for his introductory photo class about 5 years ago and the thing is still going strong. The camera body was $75.00 from a good local camera store and the less than stellar 3rd party zoom lens was another $75.00 or so. Your experience will vary. And don't be afraid of getting a used beat-up looking and now discontinued model Canon EOS lens (I coundn't find one when when my son needed it); if it works properly, the bad cosmetics are only acting in your favor, lowering the price for you because many others would be too worried to take a chance on the bad cosmetics.

If you want even better construction, can live without autofocus and don't mind digging around for some older FD lenses later on, get an even older top-of-the-line professional Canon F-1 - or the second series "new" F-1 - with a lens or three in a kit for sale on Ebay, or from the same sources mentioned above. That was a great camera and using it as an all manual camera (both focus and exposure) is very very easy and a great experience for anyone trying to learn the actual craft of photography for the first time.

Whatever you do, don't buy one of the later, flimsy plastic EOS Rebels, which were comparatively poorly constructed and not as nice in many other ways.

Regards,
David

Touche!~

Are you using Canon batteries or 3rd party? I've found 3rd party will cause the battery icon to flash and show 100% until firing a shot, then it reads correctly, but I suppose there could be other issues with different 3rd party batteries.

I have the bg-e11 and haven't had your issue other than when 1st turned on as described above.

This same thing happened to me tonight. I was setting up and started doing some test shots which worked fine then at some point I got "ERR" on the LCD and it asked me to take the battery out. I finally took off the lens and there the focus screen was. Popped it back in and shot 600+ frames without a problem. This is the first time I've had a focus screen just pop out and I've been a Canon user since the EOS-1 (film). I guess it's possible to hit the tab when inserting a lens. I don't see the tab is any different than my 1D-mkIV.

sdsr said:

You may find this experiment interesting:

D800 vs Medium Format with Roth and Ramberg

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thank you for a very interesting video

This was discussed a few days ago in a thread that dropped off.)

Desired setup at events where pre-setting flashes is possible:
Two *manual* lights high up in the "back" corners of the space high enough to paint the key areas. Radio triggers. My camera has one on-camera strobe operating in ETTL mode to fill in faces, moments not fully lit by the light coming from the "back". That light I measure in advance so know the fall off and amounts in various places around the room. This fixed lighting might at times be seen as sidelighting as I move back and forth during the event, but as the photographer I KNOW there will always be at least rim lighting. The intention is that this manual lighting will in most cases be brighter than what comes from the camera-mounted strobe as fill light.

OK, I used to do this stuff without ETTL gear. Annual reports, location stuff of all kinds. Parties, too. (fun!)

Flash-forward to current day rigs. I see the complexity of the possible answers: The timing of the flash is different. I am assuming that there will be no HSS, but it might still introduce different delays. And then maybe HSS would be needed if the event were outdoors.

But back to the ETTL issue: Can ETTL just worry about its exposure/distance calculation without allowing the brighter light to freak it out?

I am planning to buy several more modern speedlights either Canon or YongNuo to add to a motley assortment of Vivitar 285's, a Canon 580EX(not v2) and Norman-hulking-mega-Watt-second power pack or two (not used very much these days!) so I can do more events, editorial and help with my existing real estate work. New and old units will end up sometimes in softboxes, umbrellas (yuk but convenient) bouncing off ceilings. You know: the whole weird Mcgyver thing-whatever works.

So, can modern ETTL operate in this kind of mixed strobe environment? Have to all be the same brand while still set for manual and ETTL? Or free-for-all?

Thanks for suggestions...
jonathan7007

The best is going to be the Canon, but also the most expensive. The 3rd party lenses are designed to go to 180 on Nikon's 1.5 crop, so they are not 180 on Canon's 1.62 crop.

I'm sure some people would find the 70-300 (2 votes so far someone loves it!!) useful but when asked to choose between these it's not even a fair fight! The 70-200 is KING!!