msdarkroom said:

I have the 1.4.
My 7D, which I love, really struggles with it.
I'm pushing my luck shooting at 2.2 on the 7D but can shoot at 1.4 with the 5D.

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msdarkroom said:

I think it's just that the DOF is extremely shallow at 1.4 and perhaps the 7D can't keep up as well.
The AF on the 7D is awesome, don't get me wrong. It's just not as awesome as the one that costs nearly 3x as much.

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Did you AF microadjust the lens on the 7D? My 7D consistently nails shots with the 85mm f/1.2L II @ f/1.2 - I really don't think it's a thin DoF issue. In fact, AI Servo on my 7D can keep a running toddler in focus at f/1.2...

I like the fact that there is a good degree of customization available on this camera, and being able to assign instant switching from One Shot to Servo is great, I just wish you could assign it to ANY button(i.e. the rear focus button), because the DoF Preview button just doesn't work for me(trying to hold it down pulls my trigger finger off of the shutter button). I did stumble across an article that brought "rear focus" to my attention(I feel dumb for not thinking of it myself) and it gives you basically the same results and works much better for me. You just have to retrain yourself a little if you have never "uncoupled" focus from the shutter button before.

As far as people complaining about the focus, I think a lot just haven't read the manual and played with the cam(or don't even have the cam). It's funny that KR was mentioned. I read his "review" and he doesn't know what he's talking about in regards to the focus system. I stumbled across his site about four years ago while doing research about the 5DMKII. At first I thought he was a jack @$$, but then I figured out that A LOT of what he writes is tongue-and-cheek and that he writes towards beginners and the importance of technique, de-emphasizng the importance of gear(at least that's the way I read it, because that's how he was years ago). So take what he writes with a BIG grain of salt. But there are times like this where he is just talking out of his un-informed @$$. It's kind of funny, though that he started slamming on the MKIII before he received his D800, not realizing that Nikon changed the AF selection on it(and the D4). I guess he was too busy to glance at the manual on-line before he received it.

jrista said:

In terms of IQ, you shouldn't see any difference at all, as both cameras use the same sensor. The benefits of the 7D are largely in terms of performance...AF performance, frame rate and continuous shooting, weather sealing, etc. If you don't need better AF, high speed continuous shooting, or weather sealing, I would stick with your 600D.

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+1,
7D's better AF is not necessarily worth the upgrade cost for many uses and, altho they use similar sensors, I think the 7D's noise levels are not as "nice" as the other 18MP Canon sensors.
E.g. 60D seems to have less of a low iso banding issue compared to 7D and 60D sensor and electronics is likely closer to the 600D than the 7D.

You need to get one of these Canon extras. Only $500, or £1200 in the UK.

neuroanatomist said:

The point is that there is flex between body and grip. Try holding the body+lens firmly in one hand and moving the grip with the other and you'll feel it. That flex is a source of vibration when a gripped body is mounted on a tripod.

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I get the physics of it. I just had in my mind a guy walking around with this little camera body mounted to a large lens and walking around with it without supporting the camera by also holding the lens. If thats the case I like to carry it by the lens or its collar.
I decided to forgo the grip, not for the reason of instability but i have decided to just flog my 1dm3 instead of selling it now so only when things are unusually dim will i use the 5dm3 and i can handle switching the battery out.

BillyBean said:

I certainly had no intention of criticising the guy - his work is great, and however he produces it is certainly none of my business. I was simply highlighting that 250,000 images a year is a heck of a lot to be archiving, which is what he implies by his 'non-starter' comment, and that if each of these images is valued enough to archive, he should not be whining about the 20 terabytes that it takes for 250k 36MP images vs the 10-15 terabytes it would take for 250k @ 22mp. That's just silly, frankly, given that you can get a terabyte for less than £100 these days.

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I suppose I find it hard to believe that 12TB is doable but 20TB is not. Granted by the time you have redundant hard disks and offsite backups it becomes more expensive than just buying the drive, but at the point that you can do 12, you can do 20 for less than double the price.

I have a 40D and last year I upgraded to a 60D. Hands down some of the best shots that I've taken are with the 40D. The 40D is good to about ISO 1000, I feel that the IQ is better than my 60D hands down. I would hold on to the 40D and compliment it with a FF, either the 5D I or II. I also shoot with a 5DII, and it IMO it is a great camera. I honestly think that once Canon started packaging video capabilities in their DSLR's, they somehow sacrificed still quality to achieve it. I bought my 40D a week before the 50D's launch and the salesman tried to get me to wait, I wasn't hearing it. The 40D is a great camera, save your shekels and upgrade to a FF.

I did keep the ST-E3-RT order through B&H. Nobody has one, but B&H has it for $319 (IIRC) while Amazon has it for $470 for some reason. I'm really looking forward to flash without having to have a big heavy unit on to of the camera. I'll just keep it there all the time (assuming I can find a bag to accommodate it).

Meanwhile the three units I've got so far are a treat. Simple, integrated, really well done execution. Not to mention the extra goodies like the gel holder. I've held off buying a gel solution as they were all hodge podge involving tape, or at best, velcro.

Tcapp said:

Daniel Flather said:

Tcapp said:

Daniel Flather said:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/847530-REG/Canon_5261B001_BG_E11_Battery_Grip_for.html

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He needs MK 2, not 3. Easy mistake to make!)

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Yes, my mistake. It's late and too may iii ii iiii for my tired eyes. Here's the mark 2 grip:

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-BG-E6-Battery-Grip-Digital/dp/B001KBZ3QO

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Pretty sure this is the one I have, works perfectly for like 1/3 the price. http://www.amazon.com/Zeikos-ZE-CBG5DII-Multi-Power-Battery-Canon/dp/B00246XB1S/ref=pd_cp_p_1

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Genuine part would be more trusted than 3rd party (quality mainly)

What matters is not what others think, but what you think of the E-P2 high ISO performance. I've used the E-P1 up to ISO3200 on a regular basis when I had it. So do try it and find out what level still satisfies your requirements.

21MP full frame cropped to APS-C is about 8MP, or about 5 or 6MP at FourThirds. Is that enough for you?

the-ninth said:

I'd say no as well.

It'd be very difficult for their engineering to get back useful feedback from a broad and untrained customer base.

I think a prolonged beta period of the 1Dx with 50-100 experienced users with good rapport to engineering and clearly defined feedback processes would be much more valuable than a 5DIII with the same AF in the hands of tens of thousands of "normal" users.

Cheers, Robert

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and yet it ws the tens of thousand of normal users who found the 1D3 AF issues, the 70-300 IS portrait sag issues, the 24-105 flare issues, the latest DPP softness bug, instantly realized the 5D2 video needed manual exposure control, realized the histograms needed to be outlined, brought up pattern banding, found the 5D2 black dots issue, etc. etc. etc.

i actually think the ten thousand users, some very technical minded, some very picky, doing 10,000 different, sometimes extreme things, tend to paint a better, deeper picture

bchernicoff said:

Every time the 85mm f/1.2 L II comes up I encourage people to check out the Sigma 85mm f/1.4

It's less than half the cost, has MUCH faster AF, and is every bit as sharp. I've owned them both and kept the Sigma.

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Yes to the sigma. I'm in love with my sigma 85 1.4

topaz denoise is powerfull because you can seperately treat
shadow noise
highlight noise
colour noise
luminescent noise
and account for pattern noise
all have seperate sliders so you can tweak a bit more of the shadows without smearing your midtones which might not be too noisey, the detail recovery is also pretty decent too for stopping overly smudgy NR

I've been trying to sell it for $549 and no go. I'll keep trying, thanks.

The 24mm 1.4L II is a powerhouse of a lens. It's fast, it's sharp, it's AF is quick, it's weather sealed, and it's heavy & expensive. also it has monstrous vignetteing at 1.4 but looks great to me.

A phenomenal upgrade from the 24 1.4L In wide open performance and worth every penny for a unique look not available with zooms.

LOL nice find!

I didn't see this posted...

http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/1dx_guidebook.shtml?categoryId=12

Interesting question on this: Anyone use a brightscreen?

Was thinking of getting one... or at the very least, something that has a bigger eyecup, so i dont need to press my entire face onto the camera...

Jamesy said:

jalbfb said:

The Q button allows you to see your camera's settings and change them if you want from there by using the multi-conroller to highlight a setting, say the Aperture, press the SET button then you can use the large dial on the back of the camera or smaller dial near the shutter button to scroll and change the Aperture setting. Press set and you're good to go

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Thanks. I do know that you can make changes via both windows but the method to make the changes is different. It appears that you can only adjust the focus points on-screen by entering via the INFO button rather than the Q button.

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I could not find another way to get to that screen. The manual only talks about using the viewfinder that I could find.

I'll use that. It would be nice to get there from the Q button as well. Write to Canon and suggest that.

Wow...lots of fabulous information! Thanks to everyone who has taken their time to give an opinion....it helps a lot. Please keep them coming.

I took out my 70-200 for my daughters 8U Softball game and yeah....definitely different shooting with max reach of the 70-200 vs 70-300. The quality is superior and I was still shooting as the sun went down which can't be done with the 70-300 but ouch on the reach. Looking at the pics made me realize....although I like the thought of a FF my needs scream Crop.

Still leaning towards the 7D. I would say 90% came back with keep my 40D as a back up....wish I could but I really can't. Hope I don't regret that later.

Would you believe I shot in raw for the first time today and in manual mode I feel like I am in a honeymoon phase again with photography.

Again, thanks to everyone for helping and please KEEP THEM COMING

There have been a number of occasions where many cameras were used to take images at the same time, getting them synched was the issue. I don't know if it there is a wireless solution though.

Drop a e-mail to Chris Breeze of Breeze systems to see if he has anythinng for you.

http://breezesys.com/

neuroanatomist said:

FunPhotons said:

It also says that with a pre 2012 camera you have to use a flash sync speed 1 increment slower and high speed sync is not available. Again minimal testing, but I'm using HSS successfully, and am not compensating by a stop.

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Do you mean via RF control of slaves? IIRC, the 1-stop lower sync speed and no HSS applies to RF control of off-camera strobes with cameras older than the 5DIII (and 1D X).

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Correct, thanks for the clarification. Again I haven't noticed problems so far, even though its warning me. Maybe the 5DMKII is OK.

RF is set up and controlled from the flash LCD, the back of the camera can't deal with it. No problem for me, I prefer using the flash LCD to control, well the flash, anyhow.

You will also pay NY sales tax if you pick it up in-store.

That sucks about having a glitch on your card and they sold out while you got that straightened out. I had something very similar happen when I ordered mine. My CC company would not let it go through, because they thought it was a possible fraudulent charge. I received an email from them literally within seconds of the attempted purchase. The cam was still in my cart on-line at B&H. I immediately logged into my CC account, verified that I did recognize the attempted transaction and logged back out. Re-entered the CC info at B&H and all was good within minutes and I had my camera the next morning. I hope you can get yours soon, you will enjoy it.

I had a used 16-35mm II I bought from KEH. I never was able to get good results with it so I bought the Tokina AT-X 16-28mm F2.8 Pro Fx. The Tokina is big and heavy has a funky lens cap but gave me better results than my copy of the 16-35mm Canon ever did. I actually did some test shots comparing the 16-35mm II and the Tokina.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=965311&highlight=tokina+16-28mm&page=7

The Tokina zoom is opposite of Canon lenses as well. I'm still liking my tokina.

David

Got mine last week at IPS in Hamburg.