Certainly a very annoying feature...

Went out yesterday with 5D3 and 300mm f2.8 IS plus Kenko DG300 2x convertor. Used AF case 4 with tracking set to -2 ("full" locked on) and got the attached shots. I was just a bit too far away to get decent shots of ducks in flight but I'm quite pleased with the one below (luck more than skill). I really will have to get FoCal and tweak the focusing of the 300mm when I've got convertors attached.

It depends on what aperture you need. If you shoot f/2.8 and narrower a lot, then the 50 f/1.4 is actually sharper. If you shoot wider than that, the 50L is sharper. I never shoot wider than f/2.8 with a 50mm lens due to the razor thin DOF that my shots do not require, so I have the 50 f/1.4. However, the 24-70L II zoom lens at 50mm is at least just as sharp at corresponding apertures, as it with the 35L. But, the 24-70L II is way too expensive compared to a 50 f/1.4. Determine which apertures you need to shoot at, then make your decision.

DrDeano said:

OP, Seems you flushed out the liberals on this forum better than the toad in your photo.

Took me 5 minutes of painful eye squinting to be able to see the toad.

This could be one of those fun "what is it?" pics.

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I am not liberal, not even American, just a photo enthusiast.

Ok, thanks to all of you!

The adapter ring is only if you buy a third party lens. So if you buy the Canon 50mm f1.4 you won't need it.

Make sure the ND filters have the same threads as the lens. (58mm I think, not sure.) They might seem superfluous at first, but you want to keep your shutter speed at 1/50 and your f-stop between f1.4 and f8, ideally. And when you're shooting outside they help with that since they block light and let you open up.

The hoya HMC filters are the best for the money. Very neutral and great coating.

tron said:

jukka said:

there are calculations who shows about 24 stops of DR when the eyes and the brain interprets scanning of a motive, scene from the blackest to whitest

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So there will be a rumor that in the year 2120 Canon sensors will have 23 stops of DR and Nikon 25 ;D
The problem is there will be still arguing whether this is valid because DxO will have downsized the 300 Mpixel Canon and the 500Mpixel Nikon images down to ... 8 ;D

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You are really rubbing it in aren't you?

Simply put, the name of my camera company starts with "can" and the "other" "camera" "company" decided to have a name that ends with con - I admit they tweaked the spelling - but it still reads CON!

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Dylan777 said:

I would go for a used combo on Craiglist:

1. 17-55 f2.8 IS ==> general shooting
2. 50mm f1.4 ==> portrait

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Good way for a inexperienced photographer to end up with expensive problems that end up costing more than new.

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HOW?....I don't see why you shouldn't get this used combo on Craiglist(USA) for around $1000.

I believe the two I mentioned are the top-best for crop.

Thanks for sharing - very informative.

Cheers

Love my Really Right Stuff TVC-33 legs, leveling base, and PG-02 LLR gimbal. Not an international dealer though. Gitzo 3-series and Wimberley II head should be available locally.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Back in the 1920's and 1930's these groups were monoploistic and were called zaibatsu.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keiretsu

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americans under occupation "demolished" those tradehouses that they would not cause thread for american companies so they would have time to catch the markets before there is competition from other countries

Also Zeiss and Voigtländer are making co-operation. Since same factory manufactures both brands they are using same parts. Zeiss and Voigtländer Canon lenses have exactly same bayonet parts. I haven't opened lenses (yet), but maybe the electronics are same also in aperture controls?

Glad you like your camera, and I had heard good things about them, but my experience was miserable. What good is it to make a decent product if you don't stand by your word?

traveller said:

Here's another question, if you use the default AE lock (i.e. * button), is there any way to disable it without turning the camera off and the back on? Maybe I'm being stupid, but I've never found a way! (Personally, I generally use back button AF, with AF disabled on the shutter button and AE lock on half press).

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You have to set the shutter to AE lock while pressed, then the * button will do the same.

Last week I phoned one shop in Helsinki and asked when the Zeiss 135 mm APO Sonnar will be available. Availability was on December, so I thought that they would now know more detailed date. They said that they got news letter from importer that new APO Sonnar will we available on January 2013.

Maybe on meantime I'll buy older C/Y version of 135 mm Sonnar...

I believe only vignetting and lateral CA correction are available 'on the fly'.

Jim Saunders said:

I like the first one a little more, but only a little; Well done!

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Thank you Jim

Richard

Thanks I think I´ll try with the Manfrotto 233B. looks like a lot cheaper solution then the 24EX.
Very nice picture (wine) with this easy setup.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Its only part of a camera, when you put all the pieces together, the price is a bit more, in fact, a lot more.
All camera manufacturers are hurting for sales. Prices will keep dropping.

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But for $5000 + lenses you have a workable kit. Sure maybe if you want to do documentary stuff it's not the best option. But it pretty much burys the c100-c300 for dramatic work.

https://vimeo.com/25482306

^You can't get images like that with Canon gear, no matter how much you pay.

I've been kind of a RED hater for years, but this pricing move totally flipped the script for me.

mcgilligudy make a good collapsible one...

dr croubie said:

There's a very good Firefox Add-On that I use, called Ad-Block Plus.
In short, it blocks ads.
But one very useful side-effect of it is that you can see *exactly* what sites are looked up on each web page. You'd be surprised how many websites are referenced on one single page.

Anyway, there's the "big" 3rd-party advertisers that are on almost every page, google ads, tribalfusion, doubleclick.net and all the rest. Just block these 3rd-party sites and you block most ads.

You know what's interesting about www.senscore.org?
They don't use a 3rd-party advertiser. There are No links to anything else on their page.

You know what that means?
Those ads for nikon aren't just random "it's a camera page so we'll assign it a camera ad" links like you get on place like here.
Those ads for nikon reside on the same website as the scores.

You know what that means?
Nikon are paying that site directly.


nikonfail.

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Now, if they are paying for one site they may as well pay for another : (just saying there is an "if' in the beginning of the sentence)

I've the G1x and a G12. I upgraded to the G1x for the IQ and am not disappointed. The G15 has a closer macro, but one can easily purchase a macro lens or filters. The G1x is not going to fit in your trouser pocket and the G15 will. Thought about replacing the G12 with a G15 for when I wish pocket carry, but the lack of an articulated screen has been holding me back.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

louislbnc said:

One of the primary thing that determines the noise level is the pixel size.

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Actually, pixel size in and of itself has no bearing whatsoever on noise. Once again, it's entirely a question of (absolute) enlargement.

The only reason pixel size appears to relate to noise is that people like to compare noise at a 100% pixel view. But, right there, you're now comparing different enlargements. A 36 megapickle full-frame camera has twice the linear resolution as a 9 megapickle full-frame camera. To compare the noise, you'd need to either show the one at a 50% view (turning the noisy small pixels into unnoticeable fine-grained smoothness) or the other at 200% view (thus making the noise in those big pixels much nastier and blotchier). Or, much better, by actually making prints and comparing the prints. But, then again, your 24" x 36" print (or whatever) is going to be done at 300 ppi by the one camera and only 150 ppi by the other.

The short version is that there will be the exact same S/N ratio (all else being equal) between the two; you just get to pick between more fine-grained noise or less large-grained noise. If it helps, imagine scanning film at different resolutions; the grain is still there no matter what, and all you get to do is decide how faithfully you want to render the grain.

And, of course, the usual engineering caveats apply. Newer cameras are made with more megapickles and thus smaller pixels, yes, but also with newer and better and more efficient electronics that's therefore less prone to noise. And there may well be engineering matters that make it easier to design bigger circuitry and so forth.

Cheers,

b&

I've experimented with all the 3rd party Picture Styles, Cinestyle, and the built-ins. I hated Cinestyle, it made post a real pain in the ass. Out of the 3rd parties I like Cineform/Lightform. Built ins I generally stick with Faithful, Sharpness at 1, Contrast and Saturation at -2, I stick with this when I'm trying to keep color correction to a minimum.

In general, keep the sharpness as low as possible and the contrast/saturation down. Like it was mentioned before, make sure your white balance is spot on because there is a limited amount of color correction work you can do so you don't want to waste too much of it getting the white balance to the right place.

There aren't any official prices on these things, but I've heard $18k and $50k. Either way they look like amazing cameras, btu the C300 is amazing in it's own right.

on Amazon and else where, body only went up from 739.00 to 799.00 overnight. Wonder if this is Canon's new pricing policy.

I remember back in the '70's electronics mgfrs would fix the min price I forgot the term for it,,, Fair Trade or some such thing in the USA. Then it was declared illegal....it was restraint of trade..... you can't tell someone else what to charge..... Now it seems like they've found away around it. BTW, looks like a fine entry level camera, but I will not pay 800.00 for body only Rebel....no way.