Viggo said:

Highly normal. It was the same or worse with the 5d2 also. I welcomed the the new +3 to -3 scale, but at the same time I found myself using it in the same way as the scale on the 5d2, meaning it needed even more. A lot of backlit situations I used +3 stops which I never had to use before. I didn't like metering in any of them... the 1d X on the other hand is the best. I have ever tried...

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Thanks Viggo for your reaction. Does it mean that while using the 1D X you have a first time right? No EC tweaking?
And, would/do you avoid Evaluative Metering?

1DX + 7D. Best APS-C and best FF. What else can i say. Personally i would go with 1DX and 5D mk3 since i dont need the APS-C crop factor for tele lenses. Hell, 1DX would satisfy all my needs but this thread was about 2 cameras So...5D mk3 i would give to my fiance, ha!

i paid $200 for an additional 2 years canon extended warranty when i got my 5Dmk3 i was assured this was canon and not some dodgy 3rd party warranty so it has a total of 3 years manufacturer warranty

Mt Spokane Photography said:

gmrza said:

neuroanatomist said:

But don't worry, we've got a long way to go before lenses become the main limitation on system resolution.

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What may become a challenge for some however is that as the resolving abilities of lenses improve, so their prices tend to increase. Shooters on a budget may find that their wallet becomes the limiting factor in the system before availability of lenses with suitable resolving power does. - That said, it could be argued that the price-performance ratio of lenses has improved a lot.

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+1

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+2

Well captured - thanks or sharing

Cheers

Hoping someone can help me out. Recently got a bunch of new equipment and finally some time to set it up and test it out. However, ran into some problems I couldn't figure out.

Canon 5D mk iii
Canon 7D
Interfit stellar XD strobes
Canon 430 EX
Cactus V5 wireless triggers

So I set up a my gear to shoot some wine bottles for this photigy course I am doing. I set my 5D to full manual, silent shoot off, shutter at 1/160th and tethered it to my MBA and was using live view and eos utility. Hooked one strobe up to my camera with sync cable. Shooting, everything was good. I was messing around with various positioning etc to get the reflections I wanted and back to shooting. Then for no apparent reason, the strobes stopped firing consistently. maybe 1 in 4 shots would fire but random. I checked cable, even switched to a different strobe. no difference, inconsistent and very poor results. I turned off liveview, disconnected from my MBA and same results. Hooked the sync cable up to my 7D and worked 100%. With either camera and my 430 EX I could trigger them optically every time, not one misfire.

Today, went back to shoot some more and was doing fine, 100% after about 50 shots, then it started misfiring again. Around the same time, I thought my 5D shutter sounded like it was in slow motion too but maybe that was just me being pissed off. Again my 7D shot 100% when I tested it... don't get it. The 5D may of heated a bit but liveview doesnt display on the LCD when teathered so it isnt working as hard. Could that have something to do with it?

Anyway, shut everything down, went out and bought some Cactus V5 wireless transceivers. Didnt want to spend a lot and these had very good reviews.

Came back hooked them up to my 5D and stobes. checked channels and right settings. no go, wouldnt fire strobe on shots. Pressed the test button on transceiver on 5D and fired the strobe. When I click shutter, green light on both transceivers light up but dont fire. I hooked it up both to sync cable and hotshoe with no results. I tried with my 7D and no results. I hooked the cactus V5 to my 430EX and that worked 100% and optically fired the strobes every time.


Not sure what is going on. Had such good karma all week but I did decline to jump start a lady's car just before heading home to shoot, was too excited to get all this going... damn u Karma.

Canon CPS service is second to none. I can get repairs, loans, and cleanings with little fuss.

All my canon bodies have been solid and have given images that would be difficult on other systems.

I've had some beefs with some lens and body combos but nothing major.

I like canon but understand they're are better sensors in Nikon/Sony cameras. In the end, the AF and unique prime lenses is what keeps me here.

Neutral said:

..camera off the bag and started approching more closely then few minutes later I was stopped by security telling that to use professional camera and lens without park authorities permission is not allowed (((.

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THAT is certainly even more disconcerting than low ISO FPN!

I've only had someone ask me to stop taking pictures of plants at a retail greenhouse with my little point'n'shoot camera... HAHA! Not like this was going to be a source of commercial poster images, I was just trying to record them so I could remember what plant was what as I was planning what I wanted for my garden.

Since that was private property I complied with their request. But did my best to explain the above and make them feel silly for asking when other people were doing the same thing with their cell phone cameras.

Marsu42 said:

Keep in mind: 1 The non-L Canon 70-300 has just micro usm, so you'll be better off with a 70-200/4L no to speak of the better build quality. 2. The depth of field with 300mm is very thin, so imho f2.8 is great for fast af but not for the actual shot, I even stop down my 70-300L a bit in good light.

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Given all that I think it's gonna come down to (keeping the 135 f2, of course) the new 2.8 Tamron or the f4 IS Canon.

Demand your monney back!

Unsure why my post on the T3i issues was removed. These were similarly titled posts with two different issues: one with a camera and one with a lens. Now I am sure to not get any help on that end.

cpsico said:

Cgdillan said:

The music was by choice of the bride and groom and was the same band that played for their wedding. Very diferent from any other video i've done before.

http://www.stockhammedia.com/2012/10/19/martinique-and-mark/

let me know what you think. Thanks!

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Beautiful videography

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Thank you!

Some do, I just applied one to my PowerShot S100 a few days ago. There's normally no menu option to update the firmware or view the installed version number. The option to update is only available when there's a firmware updater file loaded on a memory card inserted in the camera.

Marsu42 said:

neuroanatomist said:

Yes, it's a new body from Canon called the Sony Alpha a77.

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Could it be Canon is finally getting a grip and using Sony tech, too - so that's what Canon was really talking about when they said their next sensors will have more dynamic range

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Perhaps its their new patent that solves some issues that sony has not been able to solve. It finally makes backlit sensors practical for APS-C and FF.

Hillsilly said:

Very good point....except that at least two of your photos were taken with Leicas!

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Yes, Leicas still hold their place. But regardless of the brand, I have always loved that fine "grain" noise look in the background of fast film emulsions (as in the case of the girl's portrait). So much for wanting zero noise... sometimes it adds interest and character to shots. Just my 2 cents.

K-amps said:

The mono blocks are getting more attention than the G15...

Do those look like Yamaha's in the rear?

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Sorry guys, it was not my intention to post off topic. Yes, they are Yamaha HSM80M monitors. They are part of my home studio setup.

Joe

Add Sony – same downward trend as Canon with Nikon flat lining. Maybe people are just getting bored with incremental upgrades

AdamJ said:

On a related subject, Sigma's new lenses, starting with the 35mm f/1.4, will have updatable firmware via a USB device that attaches to the mount (looks a bit like a teleconverter). It should help to future-proofed their lenses and will also allow users to adjust parameters like focus correction, focus speed, min and max focus limits, etc. which is all good.

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I agree , think Sigma's new path is seriously smart and got my attention. Anyone seen any review of the 35? Trying not to hijacking here...

Thanks a lot, very helpful. So, it's ISO that matters the most!

mirekti said:

rpt said:

Reset camera - here you go...
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1106761

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I tried that today. I let it out of the camera for two hours.
When I put it back the problem remained I just had to redo the clock again. Some settings were preserved though e.g. camera came with default jpeg and I changed it to raw and that remained.

Was the battery too short time period out of camera or some settings get written somewere else?
I mean, the fact that I had to setup the clock again ment I did the "hard" reset, right?

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Yes, you got the camera to reset. Sorry but it seems to me that you may need to send your camera back...

Knowing on how regular computer companies build hardware and then cripple it with firmware or die laser cuts id guess the 1DX is not that much different from a 1DC

I.E. NVIDIA video cards QUADRO and FX series very similar cards with different firmware or enabled pipelines, it was more SIMILAR in the older generations of ATI FIRE GL was a 9700 pro but that was ages ago still, why build 2 incredibly different Models when you can just flick a few "switches" for much cheaper

It's like you are paying $3K for a used 1DMkIV. Not bad. Plus, your 7D would lose value faster if you decide it to keep it and sell it later.

Fishnose said:

Besides, it's a bit big for covert work.

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Yes! If that is all Q can come up with, then James and MI6 are in big trouble!! ;-)

Sorry, for some reason I didn't realize one important factor here at play.

As others mentioned, there are several things more that should be considered in the comparison. By photographing the same target with 55 mm (17-55), you are giving a considerable edge on the magnification for the APS-C lens. My suggestion would be to match the Field of views first, (70 mm FF ~ 44 mm APS-C) and check the results again.

However, even this isn't fully comparable since the maximum reproduction ratio of the lenses differ quite a bit (24-70 goes to 1:3.45, 17-55 to 1:5.9). Take the closest focusing distance of 17-55 - or a little bit further - and test both lenses at suggested focal lengths there, now both lenses should be able to focus there with the same field of view.

Then, there are some hints on the 24-70 @2.8 photo that it is slightly out of focus (on your earlier article). The pincer seems to show some greenish hue around the edges as well as the paper, which suggests that the lens might indeed have front- or back focused. Additionally, there is some haze all around the image which might be because of insufficient spherical aberration correction (which would mean some lens element has moved), or again that the lens has not been focused to the right place.

Due to lack of other objects in the 24-70 photo, I can't see where the lens might have focused. And because of the long shutter speed, it might also be that something simply moved during the take, blurring some of the details. Try using a shorter shutter speed too (1/500 perhaps) and add something like a plank to the scene so that it is easier to determine that if the lens focused wrong, where did it actually focus then.

I suppose you used the Central AF point on both lenses. Be advised that the area covered by the AF point is different between full frame and crop body, and that the AF point might not look exactly at the same direction the view finder suggests (this has been rather annoying with macro work occasionally).

Hopefully you get something useful out of this post.

EDIT: Additional question: does the 24-70 have a UV filter in front of it? If so, is it a quality filter?

Thank you so much for these replies! gah I missed the video but this gives me a lot of think about!